Lille

[Bux]

We've booked rooms and a meal at Meurin, a Michelin two star restaurant with rooms in Bethune, some 40k from Lille, the night before we arrive in Lille and have dinner reservations in Lille at A l'Huîtetière the next evening. We'll report back when we return. This is a corner of France we don't know at all.

[Wilfrid]

I have visited Lille by Eurostar a couple of times.  It's a nice change of pace from Paris, a much quieter town, but still with a decent open air food market on Saturdays and pleasant restaurants.  My specific tip is Brasserie Andre - looks and acts like one of the good Paris brasseries.  I once had a sensational confit d'oie des Landes there, served for two with a mountain of frites.  That wasn't on the menu when i was last there a couple of months back, but I did have a very nice compote of young rabbit to start, and then a stuffed poulet de Bresse.  Here's a web page: '>http://www.lille.cci.fr/tourisme/touri02.html

Actually, that's a very nice site altogether.  I stayed at the Hotel Mercure - simple, inexpensive, and just a step from the town center.  That's on the site too.

[Danielle]

Quote: from Bux on 8:48 pm on Oct. 27, 2001

We'll report back when we return. This is a corner of France we don't know at all.

Hey Bux, don't you keep your promises?  I've been waiting for your return and report impatiently!  Welcome back.

[Bux]

Procrastination is my middle name. I hope to cover most of the meals and culinary experiences of our recent trip in good time. I'm also trying to catch up reading other boards on eGullet as well and have posted reports of some of my experiences in response to other threads in this board, so you may find my report rather spread out. Since you asked here, I should make a few comments on A l'Huitière, Liile and French Flanders.

We stayed the night in Bethune, the night before and arrived early in the morning. We decided not to visit the Modern Museum outside of Lille proper and to devote ourself to just enjoying downtown Lille. After a few stormy days of driving and sightseeing on the way from Paris to Lille, we were blessed with a wonderfully brisk, but sunny day in Lille and we spent most of it outdoors. We checked out the Beaux Arts museum to enjoy the rather majestic building with it's central skylit court. We were also interested in seeing the starkly modern glass administration building that sits behind it. Regrettably I don't have the architects name at hand. The facade is partially mirrored in horizontal stripes and reflects the ornate museum facade. I assume this also controls the amount of heat and light inside the new building. From there we wandered over to the Euralille development. Rem Koolhaas, the Dutch architect/city planner gets credit for the overall design, but I'm not sure who's responsible for the individual buildings which range from brave new world outside the scope of comparative criticism to the absolutely hideous high rise buildings. The new Lille TGV station is within this center as well and it's an exciting structure, but nothing shows grime more than broad expanses of glass especially when caught in the sunlight.

Vieux Lille was well worth a long stroll. Parts of it are rather like Greenwich Village with little clothing shops and places for teenagers to hang out, while other parts have become gentrified with major designer boutiques and elegantly restored buildings. It was a bit cold for outdoor cafes, but we were able to bask in the sunlight as walked in the open squares. Every Flemish town has it's Grand Place, in Lille it's been renamed in honor of De Gaulle.

While looking for the tourist office, cleverly hidden behind a tower and poorly marked in the place Rihour, we drew the attention of a genleman who correctly assumed we were tourists in search of the tourist office. When he learned we were from New York, he offered such an outpouring of solidarity, that we were truly touched. I think that if our conversation had lasted any longer my wife would have been in tears. Later that night, our waiter at A l'Huitière would also offer touching sentiments.

This reminds me that this is primarily a group with food and dining interests and I'm prattling on about other things. (And I've forgotten to mention how much of a performing arts cultural center Lille has become.) We were carrying the Green Michelin which now lists some hotels and restaurants. A recommendation for Aux Moules, a braserie near where we were walking sounded good for lunch. Regrettably my mussels were small, overcooked and not very tasty. I had to wait until Antwerp a couple of days later for superior mussels. Dinner, however was much better. A l'Huitière, while not one of France's greatest restaurants, provided us with an excellent dinner experience and it's worthy of some thought before I post details.

[Danielle]

Merci, Bux.  I am glad you described Lille other than for food: your impressions match mine and my husband's, we really liked it and will probably go back, it really is not far from Paris.

[sarah w]

i am looking into a trip to Lille in september and wondered what recommendations people have for Restaurants, hotels, entertainments etc

I have searched egullet and seen some threads but they are all quite old..

Thanks

Sarah xx

[John Talbott]

Re: Entertainment and quoting from another thread:

"three great temporary exhibitions (Rubens in Lille, Rubens vs. Poussin in Arras and Watteau and the fête galante in Valenciennes) and one fabulous new/renovated museum (Matisse in Le Cateau-Cambresis)"

Re: eating; everyone raves about A l'Huitriere, but for numerous reasons we ate at the Brasserie de la Paix 25 pl Rihour 03.20.54.70.41 and had a fine meal in late April.

[paulbrussel]

Last year I went to A l'huîtrière (one star) which disappointed me very much: it is expensive, (classic) dishes weren't well prepared, staff was arrogant and the wine list is also expensive. To me it was a old fashioned, bourgeois restaurant.

In the evening I went to L'Ecume des Mers, which was interesting; a more simple restaurant.

But the best should be L'Esplanade (one star) of the young and modern chef Scherpereel. Unfortunately I havan't been there yet, but it seems very interesting and gets a good press, especially by GaultMillau.

And around Lille, the best restaurant is the one of course Marc Meurin (two stars).

[sarah w]

Thanks guys

I have found web details of A l'Huitriere & Brasserie de la Paix

Do the others have websites?

x

[paulbrussel]

http://www.ecume-des-mers.com/

http://www.le-meurin.fr/

I am not sure whether L'Esplanade has a web site.

[Bux]

I was in Lille just two months after 9/11. It was a unique time to be seen as an American. It may well have colored the recptions we got. Nevertheless, we found l'Huitière warm and friendly. It may just have been our waiter, and it may well have had to do with the times. There is no question that it is an old fashioned, bourgeois restaurant, and I rather enjoyed it for that. I am almost sure I posted a long review here, but I can't find it. Here is the draft from my hard drive. Remember this is two and a half years old. In terms of restaurants recommendations, that's probably too old to be very reliable.

01.11.09

A L'Huitière, Lille, Nord, (Flanders) France.

We are seated in a very elegant room with matte finish medium tone wood paneling. There's a tasteful bourgeois and democratic elegance rather than regal elegance. It seems utterly unpretentious and without flash. The waiters are all in dinner jackets and black tie. the wine stewards all have black aprons in addition. Runners wear smart white jackets. Tables are well spaced. There is something northern or maybe more central European about the ambience. I'm guessing the long Flemish influence of business centers and mercantile power are a part of the influence.

From reports, we know A L'Huitière is over a fish market, but the market seems equally devoted to all sorts of provisions, including meat, produce, cheese and packaged goods and the room we are in is behind the market, not over it. It's a fancy market, to be sure, but with little indication of the elegant room behind the shop. I had, from the little I read, expected a vast hall--sort of an upscale brasserie, but this is far more elegant, and in no way less so than almost any restaurant in NYC. Service is smart and dinner is served at a comfortable and leisurely pace. The clientele, this evening is well dressed--although most men are wearing a jacket and tie, there are knits shirts and jackets as well as a few men in shirtsleeves.

In spite of our history of dining in multistarred restaurants in Paris and the provinces, we really travel on a budget and seek gastronomic excellence as inexpensively as it may be had. It's rare that we eat in a restaurant with so many more forks/spoons than stars in France. A L'Huitière, is a relatively expensive restaurant with but a single star. It's also part of a market with fresh fish and seafood. Oysters seem a good choice and I order a half dozen of the belons (shipped from Brittany) that I missed in Paris. The menu lists three sorts of oysters by the dozen, but an order for a half dozen is taken without question as expected. Every thing about the service says we're here to serve you. Our waiter starts to ask in English, and then switches to French, if we prefer English or French. He seems to encourage our broken French. Communication is excellent. Later in the meal he asks if we had come far. When we tell him we were from NY, he expresses his sympathies and solidarity noting that we were all at risk. The food is good--very good most of the time--and even excellent, but it's the staff and room I'd import to NY in a minute.

Okay, you're thinking that if I go on about the room, there must be something wrong with the food, There's nothing very wrong about the food, but it's surpassed by the ambience and service, but in such a way as to please and not offend my entire philosophy of dining out Mrs. B's ecrivisses et ris de veau is in a rich deeply flavored seafood cream sauce. It is exceptional and quite old fashioned without excuses. It is also far more richly flavored and rewarding than a contemporary restrained crayfish dish in a two star restaurant [Marc Meurin] the day before.

My tubotin in a potato crust with a cream and truffle sauce is just good enough. The shredded potatoes are cooked through, but only partially crusted. It was not edge of your seat cooking, but I have no complaint. Mrs. B's rougets, are, unfortunately, a bit over cooked and served in a far too generous a portion of five filets. Nothing turns her off than too much food on the plate. The deep red sauce was superb and might go better with a red than the white I ordered for the cream and oysters in our other dishes. A mélange of wild mushrooms is overcooked and definitely cool rather than warm or tepid. I like the little mold of carrots and caraway seeds, she doesn't. The cheese tray looks good and I had hoped to get a good assortment for this last night in France, but portions are large and I had already ordered a raspberry soufflé for dessert. Once more a classic done to perfection, The entire batter was raspberry flavored and there were raspberries on the bottom. Along with the soufflé comes a glass with a smooth and intense raspberry sorbet. Coffee is okay.

I ask the waiter about American tourists. He says that there are many more English than Americans. He went on to note that many of the Americans were there on business rather than tourism. With the tunnel and ferries, this is a short hop and first stop for many Britains. It's also a very attractive city with great cultural facilities. Regrettably we do not get much of a chance to do much in the way of cultural activities. Our visit to the beautiful Beaux Arts museum is limited to a quick look see--mostly with an interest in seeing the interesting new addition containing a restaurant and administrative offices.

There are no local wines, but wine is the drink of choice in better restaurants, while beer is the drink off bars and cafes. Local French beers and Belgian beers abound as well as others.

The EuroLille center is also fascinating. Designed by Rem Koolhaus, it is a mega structure with shopping mall/hotel/offices/whatnot. Some strange and ugly buildings are part of the development with also includes parks and the new Lille-Europa TGV train station.

Although I have very fond memories of the evening, it's a lukewarm recommendation of the food at best. However, Mrs. B preferred her langoustine dish to the one she had at Marc Meurin's two star restauarant the day before. Here is my brief write up of our Marc Meurin evening. That meal was memorable largely for one excellent dish and that dish alone would be worth the trip from Lille if you had a car.

We stayed at the Carlton hotel. We liked it very much. I found the staff exceptionally warm as I usually do at Concorde hotels. The hotel is, or at least was, part of the Concorde group. We're partial to Concorde hotels whenever we think they are in our budget. I've heard great things about the Alliance.

[sarah w]

Thanks Everyone for info, keep'em coming

I had a look at A l'Huitriere website and it is very expensive!

I will keep on hunting

We are booked up now, staying at http://www.hotelhermitagegantois.com/

Anyone stayed or eaten there?

I have seen some recommendations in Magazines but would rather hear from

trusted egulleters !

x

[Bux]

We are booked up now, staying at http://www.hotelhermitagegantois.com/

Anyone stayed or eaten there?

I don't know it, but it looks very nice from the web site--great looking bar.

[sarah w]

It does look nice, i have booked the restaurant at hotel for the sunday night

on website http://www.concierge.com/cntraveler/lists/...hotlist/gantois

its says head chef trained with Guy Savoy so i thought worth a try

Just the saturday to sort now !

x

[paulbrussel]

If you don't want to make it to expensive, I would give L'écume des mers a try. The atmosphere is nice too.

[sarah w]

Here is a sample menu for L'hermitage restaurant

I wondered if anyone could help me with a translation, i am worried about

copeaux de viande de grison et parmesan

The only translation i can find is for a weasal !! Is this correct?

http://www.pjc.cc.fl.us/sctag/GRISON/grisonpage.htm

THE MENU

Notre Chef Sébastien Blanchet vous propose :

Formule à 30 € : Entrée, Plat ou Plat, Dessert

Formule à 39 € : Entrée, Plat, Dessert

LES ENTREES

Rosace de saumon fumé « maison », riz sauvage et crabe

à la crème d’épinard froide

Poêlée d’asperges et girolles en vinaigrette de truffe

Tourin à la tomate et basilic,

Mousseline d’avocat en écailles de queue de langouste

Grosse raviole de céleri et foie gras rôti au jus de mangue

Cuisses de grenouille et fruits de mer,

Tomates confites, feuille de chou à la tapenade vinaigrée

Emincé de melon mariné à la menthe, copeaux de viande de grison et parmesan

LES PLATS

Ris de veau rôti, beurre de câpres citronné

Noisettes de râble de lapin farci, jus au romarin

Duo d’onglets de veau et bœuf, façon « Bordelaise »

Filet de dorée à la graine de moutarde

Queues de crevette « papillon » panées aux fruits secs

Filet de turbot,

Compote de poireaux marinés à l’huile d’olive et vinaigrette balsamique

(supplément 15€)

Tous nos plats sont accompagnés de légumes de saison

et d’une purée de pommes de terre aux herbes montée à l’huile d’olive

LES FROMAGES (supplément 5 €)

Assiette de fromages de nos Provinces

LES DESSERTS

Soupe de fruits rouges au vin cuit, glace lait d’amande

Pêche en deux préparations, la tarte tatin et le sorbet

Dégustation de fruits frais « retour du marché »

Crème brûlée au parfum du jour

Assortiment de glaces ou sorbets

Figues fraîches caramélisées au miel et son sorbet

[sarah w]

Phew, i have just discovered that Grison is air dried Beef from Switzerland- Like Bresola

Not Weasel then !

x

[Bux]

This seems to be a relatively new hotel and restaurant, or one recently made over. We'll look forward to your report.

[paulbrussel]

Here is a sample menu for L'hermitage restaurant.

This sounds very interesting! I am very curious to get your report back.

[John Whiting]

. . . we ate at the Brasserie de la Paix 25 pl Rihour 03.20.54.70.41 and had a fine meal in late April.

A dozen years ago, I and a troup of half-a-dozen musicians ate there very well and also with great pleasure, which are by no means synonymous. I had a plateau de fruits de mer for two, all to myself, making it my entire meal -- nothing before, nothing after. I sometimes do this with bouillabaisse when it's served for a minimum of two.

[Shira]

hi, new poster here. i'm headed off to lille tomorrow morning. from what i've read, it's sound like i'll have no trouble finding a good meal, but i wonder if anyone knows of something that stands out from the crowd. l'huitere sounds like it might be a bit much, although i'm open to have my mind changed there.

tx

[John Talbott]

hi, new poster here. i'm headed off to lille tomorrow morning. from what i've read, it's sound like i'll have no trouble finding a good meal, but i wonder if anyone knows of something that stands out from the crowd. l'huitere sounds like it might be a bit much, although i'm open to have my mind changed there.

tx

←

Welcome Shira.

A l'Huitriere can get pricey a la carte, but it's good food and the lunch menu is affordable. A bit back, we ate at the quite acceptable and affordable Brasserie de la Paix because we were primarily there for the exhibition at the musuem (which you should not miss - despite the French's intent to have all regional museums equal, they are not) - it was just fine, not great but fine.

[Sackville]

Well, when in Lille definitely check out Trois Brasseurs (24 Place de la Gare). Their specialty is tarte flambees and they also brew their own beer. I first got to know them in Strasbourg France and I've been a fan ever since....

I don't know if you can read French but if you can have a look

[kerriar]

Some time ago I had the task of arranging a good lunch for a small group (6 including wives) in Lille prior to a rugby match (Stade Francais v Munster). A colleague from there came up with "La Terrasse des Ramparts" and made the reservations for us. It's in the Vieux Lille area and the address is Logis de la Porte de Gand - it seems to be part of the old town walls.

I can't remember the food but I have kept the name and address as somewhere to recommend or to go back to.

It was nothing exceptional - just good French bourgeoisie cooking, some interesting wines and reasonable prices. They also made sure of taxis to get us to the stadium. It seems to be well known among locals which is a good sign.

[John Whiting]

A bit back, we ate at the quite acceptable and affordable Brasserie de la Paix

←

I'm very fond of this brasserie. It's the sort of "ordinary" French eating place which in any English-speaking country would cause trumpets to sound and cymbals to clash.