Taste the Mists of Time... Royal Tokaji Wine

[Paula Jonvik]

Transylvania. Hungary. These words conjure images and tales of mysterious Counts and dark Castles-- but do they make you think of great wine?

Just as these fantastic old tales have permeated our psyches, there is one being retold that carries with it centuries of history, old knowledge and technique, blended with modern western investment and technology. The result is the third renaissance of one of the worlds oldest and most romantic of all wines. Tokaji Aszu.

Since the mid 1600s, this succulent, sweet ambrosia has been preciously treasured by Hungarian Royalty, Czars of Russia, Italian Popes, Kings of France, Queens of England and commoners alike, until modern communism threatened to obliterate it.

The story today picks up with the fall of the Iron Curtain and the dissolution of the communist hold on the lands surrounding the sleepy towns of Mad, Tarcal, Zombor and Tokaj in Northeast Hungary. Single estate vineyards, whose families have maintained private ownership throughout the years, are once again free to practice their age-old methods of vinification, breathing life back into their historic wines.

On a visit to London in 2001, I was fortunate to be present one afternoon at Le Gavroche, the celebrated French restaurant of the Roux family, and was graciously invited to a tasting of Royal Tokaji Aszu.

Monsieur Thierry Tomasin, (then head sommelier at Gavroche and now manager at Aubergine), introduced me to Mr. Ben Howkins, co-founder and director of marketing of the Royal Tokaji Wine Company (Hungary) Ltd., who together with Tomasin conducted the tasting. An established and highly respected expert on this particular region, Howkins is involved first hand in the revival of the now liberated vineyards, many of which encompass the Royal Tokaji family of vintners. Working tirelessly with Hugh Johnson, (the famed British wine author, fellow director and co-founder of the company), they hope to raise the profile of these wines to their rightful status.

Surrounded by a multitude of swirling glasses and bottles of honey-coloured heaven, representing various vineyards and a range of vintages, (including cask samples yet to be released), I curiously observed the faces of the tasters. They were reflective of the wines themselves, concentrated, contemplative and full of serious satisfaction. As Monsieur Tomasin sampled, obviously memorizing personal reactions on his palate, in his nose and mind for further reference, I raised my glass and suddenly understood. Each taste was intensely fruity and aromatic, sweeter by the moment. Sheer seduction! All the while Mr. Howkins joyfully expounded the history and the future of these beautifully crafted examples and their singular attributes. Unable to scratch notes and keep up with seasoned veterans, I finally let go. Simply watching, listening, smelling, tasting. My first encounter with the pleasures of Tokaji Aszu could not have taken place in a more appropriate setting... It was marvelous!

After we had finished, I was provided with an imfomative monograph, authored by Mr. Howkins and entitled 'Tokaji-- A Classic-- Lost and Found', summerizing the history and romance of what I had just experienced. He has kindly authorized me to provide a synopsis of it here.

Centuries ago, in the mid 1300s, the island of Malvasia in the Mediterranean produced a raisin wine that was much enjoyed by Hungary's King Louis the Great. They called it Aszu, which translated to 'dried berries'. Continuing wars and Turkish rule prevented the wine from reaching Hungarian nobility, so they decided to produce their own. It was two centuries before they could accomplish it. In the early 1500s, the first vineyards were established in the southern regions of the country.

Again the marauding Turks invaded in 1526, sending the vignerons to seek refuge in the northeastern area known as Tokaj. The gently sloping terrain was perfectly suited to viticulture; the terroir consisting of fertile mineral, clay, loess and crumbled lava, all atop a volcanic substratum. So there it began. It would be another century before the Aszu wines that we recognize would be developed.

Mate Szepsi Laczko, a loyal priest and trusted steward to the royal houses of Transylvania in the 17th century, was experimenting with the juicy, sharply acidic furmint grape, along with the indigenous harslevelu, with it's rich, spicy flavour. Just as he was ready to begin the harvests, the Turks invaded yet again and everyone rushed to fight them off, leaving the grapes in the vineyards with no one to pick them.

The tale continues that November when the people returned from battle. The grape clusters were all shrunken on the vine and covered with mold. The disappointed priest had them picked anyway. Tokaji wines were about to undergo a radical transition; the full appreciation of the condition of the grapes not yet realized.

"When they were piled up in the manner of the time, a glorious honeyed syrupy liquid began to ooze out. They called that amazing nectar Essencia", Howkins writes. He goes on to explain how the extreme microclimate of the landlocked district, situated where the rivers Tisza and Bodrag meet, produced the mists that encouraged the development of the botryised grapes; those shriveled clusters covered with the precious mold known as 'noble rot'. The same mold we associate with the best French Bordeaux Sauternes and Alsatian 'Selection de Grains Nobles' of today. The pulp was then refreshed with table wine from the previous year that had not been affected by noble rot, and Tokaji Aszu as we know it was born.

Through the years the region suffered from incessant warfare, and against all odds the vignerons continued to produce these much sought after wines. They constructed secret 'rock holes' to hide their precious cache. The small, single vaulted cellars required smaller casks. So the nearby village of Gonc crafted 30 gallon gonci casks from Hungarian oak, that are now associated with Aszu wine. The humidity and coolness of the small cellars also contributed to the condition ideal for maturation. Mold developed on the surface of the casks and cellar walls, imparting even more characteristics to the already nectar-like wine, transcending it to even greater heights.

Over time, the date of the harvest was moved farther ahead to encourage the development of the noble rot to affect more of the grapes in each cluster. Howkins tells how "Each Aszu berry (i.e. each grape affected by noble rot0 was hand picked and collected in a puttony". A puttony is a specialized basket that holds 20 to 25 kilos of Aszu berries and it is also a measurement used in determining the sweetness of the final wine. "The more puttonys added the richer and more intense-- and precious-- the final wine will be", he said. Today, puttonys of 20 liters are measured into 136 liters of base wine to achieve the desired level of sweetness. The label will state how many 'puttonyos' are present in the wine.

A second fermentation then began and could continue for months, even years due to the high sugar content that retards the process. These elements combined with the cool climate of the cellars contributed to the fact that it is a very long-lived wine. In the past it was the only wine, that once bottled, was stored upright and re-corked every 6 years due to oxidation. This was a practice that has been abandoned over time as the methods and closures were greatly improved.

In the year 1700, one hundred fifty five years before the 1855 Bordeaux classification was instated, vineyards in the towns of Mad, Tarcal, Zombor and Tokaj were designated as 1st, 2nd and 3rd Growths or classes by Prince Rakoczi of Hungary. At one time the grapes of Tokaji Aszu were worth their weight in gold and removing even a handful warranted severe punishment. Two of the vineyards-- Mezes Maly and Szarvas, were elevated to the status of Great 1st Growths, and are still in production today. Both are located near the town of Tarcal.

Tokaji Aszu enjoyed immense popularity matched only by the greatest French wines of today, but demand for it dwindled due to continuing wars. Although there was a short second renaissance between the mid-19th century and World War One, things appeared bleak for Tokaji Aszu wines.

In the early 1950s the communist regime arrived and delivered a nearly fatal blow. They had taken control of everything, including the production of wine. All individuality was stripped from the growers. Quality was reluctantly abandoned. Everyone was made to produce quantity, blend together in communal tanks and then ship the oxidized results away in trade of natural gas. The Borkombinat. The State Wine Farm. Was this the bitter end?

As quickly as it had come, it was gone. Communist control ceased to exist and curious westerners began to question if the traditional Hungarian Aszu wines still existed? It was the very late 1980s and attempting to once again capture the elusive sensuality that had catapulted their region and its wines to fame and fortune, growers had begun producing wines from their distant past. They were eager to share them, to gain validation. The question was-- could they achieve it?

The answer was yes.

It was once said about the famed vines at Domaine de la Romanee-Conti in Burgandy that-- "A vine must be made to suffer to give it's best." If that is the case then the vines of the Tokaji Aszu had suffered enough!

Yeast expert Peter Vinding-Diers was convinced, and together with Hugh Johnson, traveled to meet the keeper of the Aszu faith, Istvan Szepsy, direct descendent of the very priest who developed this luscious wine centuries ago. The Royal Tokaji Wine Company was about to become a reality.

Once the new Hungarian government had privatized the best estates, it gave the green light to the first wave of western investment. Led by the cooperative of Royal Tokaji, others soon followed. Three seperate French insurance companies, a Spanish wine company and a French food group ventured to establish their own labels with other vintners in the area, providing much needed transfusions of interest and capital that primed the local dream. Tokaji Aszu of old lives!

Mr. Howkins states-- "All Aszu is Tokaji, but not all Tokaji wines are Aszu!" So be sure to check the label carefully. The words Aszu or Essencia should appear there. Purchases should be made from 1990 vintages on, with special attention to the 1993 and 1995 vintages which have been the outstanding vintages of the new renaissance. The best yet produced. The first exports of Royal Tokaji brand wines began in 1994, as they are cask aged for a minimum of 3 years, usually longer.

The Royal Tokaji brand offers an outstanding range of wines, exclusively Aszu, of 5 or more puttonyos. Beginning with the blends of Red Label, Aszu of 5 puttonyos from 2nd and 3rd Growth estates and selected growers, and Blue Label, also Aszu 5 puttonyos from 1st and 2nd Growth estates and selected growers.

However, it is the 5 Single Vineyard wines from Royal Tokaji that are highly sought, due to their unique expression of terroir. They are:

Birsalmas: 2nd Growth Aszu 5 puttonyos

Betsek, Nyulaszo (which means "to catch hares") and Szt. Tamas (which is geographically situated to Nyulaszo), all 1st Growth Aszu 6 puttonyos.

Mezes Maly, Aszu 6 puttonyos (one of only two Great 1st Growth vineyards of the 1700 classification). Wine from this particular vineyard is produced exclusively in exceptional vintages and possesses unique, succulent honeyed complexity.

Expect to be mesmerized by progressively concentrated flavours of dried fruits, fat raisin, caramelized orange... of fig and apricot, nuts, chocolate, honey and flowers...

Finally, there is Aszu Essencia. It has been dubbed "Liquid Gold". This harks back to the distant past when it was believed that veins of gold within the terroir were drawn into the vines themselves, and hence, the clusters of fruit. This pungent, incredibly sweet 7 to 9 puttonyos nectar of the Gods, is the culmination of the greatest of all components. Produced in extremely limited amounts, only from the most outstanding vintages and strictly from the best the vineyards of Nyulaszo and Szt Tamas have to offer. It can be likened to a Couture Original. The pride and glory of the endeavour.

In 2001, Royal Tokaji vineyards encompassed 110 hectares, with production limited to 10 hectoliters per hectare to induce the highest quality.

Inside the candle lit cellars, which extend for nearly 3 km under the town of Mad, the romance of it all strikes you and transports you in a sense. You become uncannily conscious of the wines unique living history. It is a constant 50 degrees f, and lined on either side with thousands of liters of top quality Aszu wines awaiting release.

The newly organized Tokaji houses are busy establishing their identies and grooming their vines. Mr. Howkins says, "The main factors are terroir, vineyards and indigenous yeasts, together with the style and direction at which the house aims. At this stage it is probably true to say that certain of the new French-owned wineries are veering toward a more flowery Sauternes style, whereas the others are concentrating on the old, intense fruit flavours."

Back at Le Gavroche for dinner later that evening, I pondered the history lesson I had received earlier that afternoon, as I was served a glass of 93 Birsalmas Aszu 5 puttonyos by Monsieur Tomasin, to be savoured with my foie gras. He assured me that the combination would be magnificent! It was. Just as he said it would be...

Showcasing Tokaji's culinary versatility, Chef Michel Roux Jr. of Le Gavroche has created a delectable dessert utilizing Tokaji Aszu as a key ingredient. When served, it is accompanied by a slightly chilled glass of this delicious wine.

Monsieur Tomasin added-- "Royal Tokaji is the d'Yquem of Hungary. The product, it is getting better and better. It will only improve. People will start to drink Tokaji Aszu-- It is a superb sweet wine!"

I encourage you to try a glass and decide!

Immerse yourself in the magnificence, welcome its return and join the ranks of history by partaking in the wonders of Royal Tokaji Wine. Taste the mists of time.