OPM in Edmonton

[jamiemaw]

The good citizens of Edmonton will move into the bonus round with the roll-out of Canada’s first OPM (i.e. Opium) this August.

The Asian-based concept is being developed by Earls/Joey Tomatoes Restaurants: think Wild Rice meets PF Chang’s. On Friday in Coquitlam we attended a menu tasting where we evaluated 14 dishes. For the most part, they excelled. One reason might be that the development chef for Joey Tomatoes is Chris Mills, who led the Canadian team at the Bocuse d’Or culinary competition in Lyons a couple of years ago. He’s been traveling a lot assembling a pan-Asian, well OK—wok-Asian—all-day menu.

I’m cynical about many concepts—they homogenize the dining landscape and in many cases serve dumb food to the unsuspecting. But Earls has always intrigued me for its fresh approach, organics program, outstanding wine list and, of course, service that never stops. Industry folk fly in from around the world to see what makes them tick.

At OPM it will be the food, swank décor and big bar. Some of the best dishes we ate were green papaya and prawn salad, superb yellow curry prawns, drunken chicken in ginger-sesame sauce, orange ginger beef, Schezuan green beans and . . . well, you get the picture. Prices ranged from $8 to $12 and portions were generous. We also tried two desserts: supersized fortune cookies with supersized fortunes, and coconut-accented ice cream, and caramel banana spring rolls.

OPM will also brew two styles of beer, a ‘hefty' Weizen called Big Wang, and a dunkelweizen called China Black. Some cocktails are also themed, with one standout called the Fallen Samurai: muddled red grapes with citrus vodka, lychee juice, apple juice, sauvignon blanc and a charge of soda. Strange but true—it tasted eerily like Singapore.

Edmonton will also host the first PUBLIK, Earls new sports bar concept—arriving a little later. Vancouver and Calgary get there’s later. As for you folks in Edmonton, well—lucky you.

Cheers,

Jamie Maw

Food Editor

Vancouver magazine

[Sam Salmon]

But Earls has always intrigued me for its fresh approach, organics program, outstanding wine list and, of course, service that never stops. Industry folk fly in from around the world to see what makes them tick.

Earl's?

ROTFLMAO!!!

The drunken drug addict that lives next door to me is a Chef @ Earl's-as good reason as any to never darken their door again.

His friends are all Kitchen Staff there as well-a more boorish lot of miscreants it would be difficult to imagine.

[HKDave]

I don't make the connection between your neighbour's drug intake and not wanting to eat at Earls. The front of house at any Earls I've been to has been very professional, and I don't care what the cooks do on their days off as long as their food is good. Given that Earl's is a 3-ring binder type of restaurant, I think they do a great job.

[Daddy-A]

But Earls has always intrigued me for its fresh approach, organics program, outstanding wine list and, of course, service that never stops. Industry folk fly in from around the world to see what makes them tick.

Earl's?

ROTFLMAO!!!

The drunken drug addict that lives next door to me is a Chef @ Earl's-as good reason as any to never darken their door again.

His friends are all Kitchen Staff there as well-a more boorish lot of miscreants it would be difficult to imagine.

Sam - Have you ever read Tony Bourdaine's Kitchen Confidential? Drug use is hardly a precursor for lack of creativity. Hell, if it was, the entire music scene in the 60's and 70's would have been pretty damn bleak.

Earl's has never really thrilled me as far as a dining experience. I usually relegate it to family gatherings where I know getting my entire clan to visit Cru just wouldn't happen. Earl's is safe, predictable, but is a huge step above Boston Pizza (for example) ... although I must admitt I'm getting kinda tired of Kung Pow (sp?) and only 2 pizzas on the menu! I was soooo bummed out when they dropped the Nasi Goreng.

Jamie, any idea as to when this new venture will come to Vancouver?

[merlin]

Jamie:

Thanks for the "heads up". People in the industry that I know here [Edmonton] had mentioned that these spots were in the works but I had not heard much of late.

Did the Fullers indicate where the locations would be? Southside Common perhaps?

The items you mentioned all sound interesting. Were you kidding about the hefty wheat beer? Big Wang? Gimme a break!

A lot of Albertans "snowbird" in Arizona so I am not surprised that the Fuller-Family have gone with a variation on the theme of P.F. Changs...hope their wine list follows suit.

I am looking forward to their opening later in the summer.

[jamiemaw]

Merlin, I only know that the OPM is being installed in an older Joey's property. presuambly that would be the one with a lot of construction activity right now--the plans looked impressive. And if you can talk your way into the kitchen, take a look at their water-cooled woks--a continous stream of water flows down behind the wok ranges to cool the kitchen and the chefs, without cooling the food.

Intersting comments on Casual Fine Dining concepts. Obviously, because low price points compress margins in CFD (and real estate isn't getting any cheaper), volume is the only saviour. Any CFD property with hopes of survival in a ruthless marketplace has to capture sales of >$60,000 per week. In turn, that requires lots of lunchtime footfall/walk-in traffic, and at dinner, all of that, after-work drinkers and some destination diners too. So how do you do it?

Probably by doing a few things very well. The two most sucessful concepts in Canada are The Keg and Earls (and its variations--Cactus Club, Saltlik, Joey's and now OPM and PUBLIK). I reckon that those few things comprise excellent development kitchens; fresh ingredients; sourcing consolidation of those ingredients (i.e. only one delivery per day); portion/food cost control and measurable service standards; and relentless 'franchise' training of kitchen and service crews. Add in outstanding wine and beer lists.

HKDave's quip about 'three-ring binder' dining was bang on. It's all about a system that's couched in gracious, rapid response service and F&B delivery. The fact is that these two companies do it--being all things to most of the people all of the time--as well or better as any CFD in the world (that we've found at least), is interesting--they both started right here.

Maybe what brought it on home for me were a couple of things that occured over the past few years. First, a lot of the big-time chefs and restaurant awards judges that we interview each year--especially those with families--willingly admit that their mini-vans veer right on auto pilot when they pass an Earls. Second, though, two years ago I ate an expensive mistake of goulash at the vaunted Spago in Beverly Hills. It was several lumps of mystery meat sitting in a beige puddle and cost $30 Canadiain--at lunch! In fairness, the accompanying spaetzle was top drawer, but we called the rest 'The Goulash Archipelago'--prison food. The very next week, we found that Stewie Fuller, Earls' development chef, had put goulash on the menu. His version was delicious in its distinct staircase of flavours (including a lick of smoked paprika), and at $7.95 a much better dish.

Don't know when they'll open an OPM in Vancouver (the real estate market here is scary for restaurants--and most new ones seem to be in the apace-challenged podiums of condo towers), but there is a stylish new Joey's being built on the emeging restaurant row just east of Granville on West Broadway--on the old Kitsilano Pub site across from Memphis Blues and Cru. Three blocks, three CFDs,

Three cheers.

Jamie Maw

Food Editor

Vancouver magazine

[gastropimp]

My information has OPM hitting the spot where MALONES is stoically waiting out their last days. Interest, as you may guess, in that location has been fierce, with the agent telling us basically, don't bother unless you're heavilly bankrolled. The information that OPM would be hitting that particular space came approximately 6 months ago.

Could be nice to see that sad little block develop into something. . . Malones, Urban Well, Kings Head and Rossini's. All very tired little places that thrive in a great location.

Wouldn't it be nice for this city to have a beachfront boardwalk, with fish n' chip shops, cafes, nightlife etc.? ? ? That particular neighbourhood would be perfect, if not for the consistent yammering of the Kits Point Residents association et al..

Anyhow.

Given the choice, although I've not stepped foot in an earls or CC for 6 years, I would take them in a heartbeat over those in other cities I've seen.

It could be worse, out east it's Swiss Chalet and Tim Hortons.

[merlin]

Jamie:

If it is the older Joey's property I am thinking of it will be just off Calgary Trail at the Whitemud Crossing Centre which also houses an Earl'. Good location, lots of traffic. I'll take a look when I am out running errands later today.

A short drive south of where the original Earl's opened quite some years ago. A converted Fuller's repainted green with a couple of wagons on the roof bringing burgers and chicken wings to Edmonton.

I remember when I moved to Alberta from the east over 20 years ago you used to be able to buy wings for next to nothing. They were treated like scraps. Then along came Earl's and the Buffalo hot wings concept became popular.

It would make sense that OPM is going into that location as they just opened a large Joey's in the southside common. Grander, more adult-like atmosphere with a big bar without all that kitsch and assorted bric-a-brac that dominated the orginal concept.

Caused a stir initially as they were quite candid about not being "kid friendly". Reminds me of when someone wrote a letter of complaint about an Earl's that a friend of mine had an interest in. The complaint was with the absence of booster seats or high chairs. Stan Fuller wrote back that the concept was "burgers and beer" and they were not encouraging family dining.

Like those minivans you mentioned we who live in the "burbs" also find ourselves without a lot of choices apart from chains and often end up in Earl's. At least the wine list is good.

Nothing like a burger with a bottle of '95 Lake Aileen Cab or a club sandwich with their white Beaucastel C. de Rhone I recollect that a bunch of my wine geek buds used to chuckle that we just "had" to go to Earl's to have the chicken burger when they had Conundrum on the list at about a dollar over retail...it was such a deal!

[merlin]

Gastropimp:

If Malone's is the place I am thinking of in Kits, I agree that that would be a prime location. We usually end up staying on the North shore when we visit Vancouver but I think one time I attended a conference at UBC that I met a bud at Malones.

Whatever happened to Ken Bogus? Is he still in the restaurant trade in Vancouver? I do not know him but enjoyed a meal many years ago when he had a long narrow dark spot in the area...Saltimbocca I think was its name.

[jamiemaw]

Merlin,

Ken Bogas went on to chef at his brother-in-law Umberto Menghi's Yaletown restaurant called Mangiamo (formerly another Italian called Il Barino). When Umberto planned to sell the property, Ken moved on to open his own room (with some partners I believe), called Coco Pazzo. It's located in the South Kerrisdale village near 57th and the Boulevard.

Ken maintains his feisty style of cooking in an attractive room. It's given the scions of Kerisdale and Shaughnessy an outpost without having to cross a bridge too far--some nights it looks like a Crofton House PTA meeting. And yes, he still offers his seared ahi--much as Mick Jagger has to sing Satisfaction wherever he goes.

Back in Yaletown, Umberto ended up keeping Mangiamo. His executive chef, Pino Posteraro, who had oversight for all of the Menghi restaurants, had left to open the expensively designed Cioppino's. And that's when the Spaghetti Western broke out. Umberto spent some serious capital redeveloping Mangiamo into Circolo. Then Pino added Enotca, the all-day, slightly more casual room next door to Cioppino's. Umberto then expanded too, opening an adjacent room with a demonstration kitchen. And so it goes.

Coincidentally, I just spoke to Stan Fuller about the launch date of Earls new wine list (designed by Tony Gismondi and David Schofield)--he confirmed the Whitemud/Calgary Trail location for OPM. Check it out.

But there's more good news for you Edmontonians. Stan said that he's just weeks away from launching his new 170-seat (gastro)pub in South Edmonton--PUBLIK. Cheers.

Gastropimp, as a near neighbour of the Yew Street dining mall, I couldn't agree with you more. Wouldn't it be great to see more estblishments with the quality, independent ownership, interest factor and reasonable prices of Tangerine or Kibune? The Malone's location is an especially irritating waste of prime space. i believe that the old gas station head lease is split in two--which explains why only half the space is functional now. I'm told that it's in litigation and, pending resolution, that your sources are correct.

A sidebar about the Earls' wine list. Although Stan Fuller was a hell of a rugby player, and thus a pint of beer or several was not foreign to him, his poison of choice these days is white wine. And it just so happens that his favourite is Conundrum . . . .

Cheers,

Jamie Maw

[Sam Salmon]

I don't make the connection between your neighbour's drug intake and not wanting to eat at Earls. I don't care what the cooks do on their days off as long as their food is good.

HKDave-It's not what he does 'on his day off' it's what he does every morning before he goes to work.The Good News is that he's so broke he had to give up his car so he walks to work.

There's also a hygiene issue that the building is dealing with having to do with cleaning up after his apartment bound cat-you don't want to know the details believe me....

Sam - Have you ever read Tony Bourdaine's Kitchen Confidential? Drug use is hardly a precursor for lack of creativity. Hell, if it was, the entire music scene in the 60's and 70's would have been pretty damn bleak

Daddy-A I haven't read the book but at one time in the 20th century I was employed in the Industry.My views on substance abuse remain unchanged-abusers are wounded dysfunctional people but they get no sympathy from me.

Wouldn't it be nice for this city to have a beach front boardwalk, with fish n' chip shops, cafés, nightlife etc.? ? ? That particular neighbourhood would be perfect, if not for the consistent yammering of the Kits Point Residents association et al..

gastropimp-I have to wonder if you weren't 'under the influence' when you posted this bit of nonsense.

It sounds like you'd like to rebuild Kits Beach/destroy the pool/existing walk and put up more buildings to sell F&C?.If so check out Steveston first.

As a longtime Kitsilano resident-my 25th anniversary is May 15-I can say with certainty the last thing this neighbourhood needs is more concrete and noise.

As to that 'prime locale' it's going to be tough for them to operate under the constraints in place plus that expensive new condo development 'coming soon' next door isn't going to like a noisy bar operating late.

No more bothersome transient renters complaining it's going to be ratepayers phoning City Inspectors about various and sundry infractions.

Interesting times ahead Yes indeed!

[Daddy-A]

Daddy-A I haven't read the book but at one time in the 20th century I was employed in the Industry.My views on substance abuse remain unchanged-abusers are wounded dysfunctional people but they get no sympathy from me.

Sam - My point about the book had more to do with the fact that drug use in the that industry is hardly unusual based on that one book. I'm no expert on the restaurant industry, but I know a thing or two about drug abuse ... and many don't want or need your sympathy. Your understanding perhaps, but it doesn't appear like there is any.

As a longtime Kitsilano resident-my 25th anniversary is May 15-I can say with certainty the last thing this neighbourhood needs is more concrete and noise.

One good stereotype deserves another ... what is it about Vancouver and NIMBY? I was born here, and I'm still amazed at how certain neighbourhoods (Kits???) complain bitterly about Vancouver being "no fun city" while at the same time bemoaning the fact that a new restaurant is going to add some more traffic to their evening constitutional.

[gastropimp]

I have to wonder if you weren't 'under the influence' when you posted this bit of nonsense.

Busted.

It sounds like you'd like to rebuild Kits Beach/destroy the pool/existing walk and put up more buildings to sell F&C?.If so check out Steveston first.

oops! I think I hit one the KPRA members! Sorry about that Mr. Fish, no affront intended. I surmise that you're beautiful beachfront community is beset on all sides with sin, sodomy and other savagery and you're none too happy. I wouldn't blame you.

I, too, am a home owner. I rue the day when progressive change and commerce hits my own beautiful neighbourhood. It's tranquil and peaceful and I can always hear the birds.

However, change is the only constant, is it not?

Either way, the real battle I see looming is with the litigations involved with the Elephant&Castle building Barnetts opening their new 'pub-style' restaurant in place of the concession. That one will get fun.

Either way, we do have prime real estate that retailers are lining up for, and those amenities are just what new tenants/buyers want close by.

What is the true issue at stake here, is that the concept of a 'neighbourhood' is not being truly developed in some of the newer urban areas. Your butcher, baker, coffee shop, bistro, sushi joint etc. all in the same little area with a cohesive knit into the fabric of the community. These are the fundamentals that the KPRA could be working towards to steer change in a direction favourable to their own.

I rant. I gotta stop drinking before noon, it just makes me messy.

Daddy-A I'm no expert on the restaurant industry, but I know a thing or two about drug abuse ...

Damn, I think I'm keeping that one.

[Daddy-A]

Daddy-A I'm no expert on the restaurant industry, but I know a thing or two about drug abuse ...

Damn, I think I'm keeping that one.

Is this one of those things that will keep me out of public office .... please?

DA

[canadianintexas]

Jamie:

Thanks for the "heads up".  People in the industry that I know here [Edmonton] had mentioned that these spots were in the works but I had not heard much of late.

Did the Fullers indicate where the locations would be?  Southside Common perhaps?

I'm not sure of where OPM will be, but I know the head chef of Publik and they have opened in the old Joey Tomato's location at Whitemud Crossing, by the Crossroads Earls location.

Edited June 8, 2004 by canadianintexas (log)

[merlin]

CanadianinTexas:

Did your friend tell you what the menu concept is at Publik? That is the second time is less that a month that I have had the term "gastro-pub" used in conjuction with a bar/pub/restaurant opening. I may drop by on the way home from work today and give it a "look, see".

Pat Devaney who has re-opened the Rose and Crown in the Sutton Place Hotel downtown also refers to his menu there in the same terms.

Makes sense to me that Publik would go into that particular location.

I think then that OPM will likely be destined for South Common. However, they [at least some of the same investors] relatively recently opened a Joey's World [as opposed to Mediterranean] Grill so not sure about the close proximity. Mind you, it seems in the fast food world everyone goes head to head both the the competion and corporate "brethren" [ie. Joeys v. Earls and Red Lobster v. Italian Gardens].

[stovetop]

Sam you better count out about 50 percent of restaurants in Canada because this character that you do not like is very much like that Earl’s chef you think is a putz.

We all think that you should move out of that apartment and move to a new place, and while you are at it; you better start cooking for yourself, cause there are not a sober and drug free crew out there.

We are a bunch of dyslexic, OCD, and Ritalin induced psychosis causing bunch.

We all walk to work because we spent all our money on crack.

But I tell you we sure can cook on mescaline.

do not mess with us cooks

we are drug induced lot; but we stick together

"wait a minute some one is following me??"

stovetop

[stovetop]

As for kits beach; it is a public beach, it does not belong to the people, who live across the street; I think a nice bar and restaurant would be good for the nebourhood people and tourist, while we are at it why do we not put in another basketball court, then the rich wives will have more to complain about over tea.

It will give another job to another drug induced cook who might move next door and have three cats who *&)*&* on your roses.

stovetop

[peppyre]

Having a brother that has been with Earls for over 15 years, I know many present chefs and many past kitchen staff members. These are people that work very very hard, and yes they play hard too. They also know when to stop.

I can honestly say that I am looking forward to this new venture from the Fuller's and will try and get some inside info for everyone as to when we will get to enjoy it here in Vancouver.

[stovetop]

I have nothing but respect for EARLS, the Fuller family, I am sure that this project will be good, this is a restaurant family, they will survive, long after we all perish.

stovetop

[canadianintexas]

Did your friend tell you what the menu concept is at Publik?  That is the second time is less that a month that I have had the term "gastro-pub" used in conjuction with a bar/pub/restaurant opening.  I may drop by on the way home from work today and give it a "look, see".

Basically as far as I know it's: “a pub that serves high quality food”.

The prices, though moderate for the type of dishes being served, are higher than what you might expect for a typical pub. Moreover, “you probably order at the bar,” though the plates will be brought to your table, and like a pub, should you choose not to eat, you may drink without ordering food.

I have seen a few drafts of the menu, but not the final (I keep asking him to send it to me). This seems to be a logical definition.

[merlin]

canadianintexas:

Just below this "thread" you will see one that I started yesterday.

After seeing your first response here I decided to venture up for lunch. Mixed results and feelings I would say. A work in progress I expect, to see what does or does not work. This makes sense given Jamie Maw's original post about them starting out here in Edm before expansion to Calgary and Vancouver.

Not sure if they are after the "happy hour" suits, the baseball cap boys in after playing some softball, or the trendies who have tired of the other bars and lounges up the street and are willing to shell out bigger bucks for "exotic" cocktails and martini's..all..or any combination of the above.

The food was o.k.

The tuna in particular was good.

The rest, not all that inspiring or different from [as I indicated in the other post] the lists we have seen over time at Earls', Joey's or other similar spots. Asian influenced [are they "test cooking" for OPM's opening later this summer?] along with some surprises like "poutine".

I should say at least they did not include, or at least I did not see, their "take" on szechwuan or ginger beef that they used to have at Joey's...that sodden mass of deep fried pieces of beef topped with a sickenly sweet goopy sauce...yes, you are correct, I did not like it

I would not write the place off completely. The physical plant and decor provided a nice respite from the summer heat. The staff competent and friendly. They genuinely inquired about what I did or did not like.

For example their wine list is pretty mediocre...unusual for an Earls' related venture given the good quality and pricing for it. I suggested that with all this asian-styled food they really needed a sparkling wine by the glass...hope they will have one for OPM if it is anything like what I have read concerning P.F. Changs, they may...it goes with everything but I think that that request will fall on "deaf ears" as I do not expect that they are going after the sparkling wine drinker and may end up throwing more out or having it go flat that making sales.

Just my two cents. I will be interested in hearing what insights your friend has. What did or did not work.

Edited June 9, 2004 by merlin (log)

[yogi]

I don't believe that the two sites, OPM & Publik are related with the food or wine programs, and the food at Publik is definately a work in progress, as mentioned earlier.

Tried a few dishes thier last night, nothing really WOW, but we were told that the menu is under revision.

Should be interesting to see where it ends up.

Seems very disjointed now; night-club feel, pub-type food, mixed crowd.

[stovetop]

I think there is some confusion in regards to this concept; it sounds like to me they are going after the younger set, in Alberta the drinking age is 18, this is the newest and biggest age group to target market food concepts at, you older people seemed to be turned off by this approach, I have read many reviews in regards to this type food concept you all have the same bitch, to laud, to this-- too that, bla bla, you all protest to much, has it ever downed on you that this place is trying for someone younger, I guess not; you better get used to not going to a lot of places cause a lot of owners are going after this market, food people have to choose the market they are going after, the last ten years has seen a shrinking of the restaurant dollar, we can not all go after the fine dinning dollar; my opinion I think this type of restaurant is done to death, every city in Canada has the amount that we need, three open, three close, do the math.

BLa Bla Bla

bye

[merlin]

I don't believe that the two sites, OPM & Publik are related with the food or wine programs, and the food at Publik is definately a work in progress, as mentioned earlier.

I am not too sure about that Yogi. However, I have no personal knowledge to the contrary.

It just seemed to me that it had a real "Earls' feel" to the place with appetizers I had seen earlier but with an Asian "influence". Given what Jamie had written about the menu tasting he did some months ago I would not be surprised at all to see many of the same or similar items on the OPM menu given what I have seen on the internet of the fare on hand at P.F. Changs which I think the Earls' folks are attempting to emulate.

However, as you said the menu at Publik is a work in progress and no doubt they are doing some "culinary tire kicking" to see what works there and perhaps at OPM as well.

Nice to read something from another [at least I think] Edmontonian.

Also interesting that after little of note happening on the restaurant scene we have Culina, Wild Tangerine and Table de Renoir opening.