Sambar

[SparrowsFall]

Hey All:

Regulars here will know that I'm a fan of Le Gourmand--both because it's crawling distance from my house, and because of (and in despite of) its idiosyncracies. (For those who don't know, it's the hole-in-the-corner-of-Ballard-across-from-Dominos restaurant that Bruce Naftaly has been running for it must be nigh on twenty years now.)

Bruce just opened Sambar next door. It's a tiny place (though not crammed--comfortable)--probably twenty seats inside and a dozen outside, around four tables--but it's a whole new scene for Ballard. It feels like a little bar/restaurant that you'd find on a shady back street in Montpellier or Valencia (the Seattles of France and Spain, respectively). It feels very hip and trendy (but not hard-edged or uncomfortable) inside; outside feels quiet and peaceful. (Standing radiant heating units made it comfortable even on a sixty-degree night.)

Cocktails are the frontlist, with some amazing original creations. The Surpasse Tout ($10)--aptly named--is made of citron flavored vodka, peach brandy, framboise, and--I know you all make this at home--house-made rose syrup. Garnished with dried rose petals. It's just ethereal, like nothing you've ever tasted before.

Also interesting is the Mango Batida ($9)--mango puree, lime juice, and Cachasa (Brazilian liquor that tastes like a cross between rum and tequila, most commonly sighted in caiperinia's, which are like mojitos without the mint). On that front, the Moskiso ($9.50) is rum, lime juice, club soda, and crushed shiso leaf (familiar from Japanese meals).

Amazing selection of other fine liquors. As an example, of the six beers offered (all imported, I think), I'd only heard of one.

Food: I started with a small cone of Belgian frites (!) to take the edge off. Seasoned only with sea salt and pepper, made with idaho russets, but surprisingly flavorful; I thought there were other spices involved. Pretty perfect texture, though I'm not an experienced afficionado of these.

Twice-baked spinach souffle ($9). I asked the bartender what the theory was behind this, cause it seemed pretty odd to me. "I think it has to do with timing." Sort of what I thought and feared, and the event bore it out. Spinach souffle is rarely light and fluffy at its best (nature of the beast), and this--2-1/2 inches around, with bechamel and cheese added for the second cooking (cheese melted to the point of brown chewiness)--was more like a timbale or mini casserole than a souffle. Not a winner in my book.

But the off-menu pork entree ($14.50) was stunning. Perfectly cooked just-pink all the way across the slices, with just a quarter-inch of well done around the outside to give it the necessary tooth. Topped with a subtly ginger-flavored compote, and raspberry sauce on top of that, surrounded by a calvados sauce and perfectly cooked apple eighths. Could have been a little hotter, but still one of the tastiest things I've put in my mouth recently. An amply sized main course.

Dessert ($14.50): A perfect gateau garibaldi--coconut macaroon tart--topped with a thick layer of dark chocolate ganache. Surrounded with lavender-honey creme anglaise, with multiple dollops of marionberry coulis and raspberry coulis. Small scoop of ginger ice cream on top. Only quibble is that the amount of chocolate overwhelmed the other more subtle flavors--could be a thinner layer. Very yummy, though.

The place ain't cheap. Pretty much any drink, including a glass of wine, is $8-$10, though the food seems more reasonable. For a cocktail, two glasses of wine, frites, souffle, pork, dessert, and coffee, I dropped ninety buck after tip. So even though it would be a great place to hang out in the neighborhood (very comfortable for a single diner, both while reading and when talking to neighbors), I dont' expect to go there frequently.

As I was leaving I ran into a friend going in who's the most Seattle-restaurant-savvy I know. (From a long-time Seattle family, she knows all the chefs and such.) Given that she lives in Montlake, it seems that Sambar is proving to be quite a draw to boring old Ballard....

Steve

[lala]

Sounds delightful...can you please confirm that $14.50 price on the dessert?

[SparrowsFall]

Sounds delightful...can you please confirm that $14.50 price on the dessert?

Just checked the bill (they actually gave me the handwritten bill to take home with me, which is kind of extraordinary). $14, actually. More than a bit steep, that, being off-menu and all...

Steve

[tighe]

Steve...I'm having a hard time envisioning how it could be 'next-door'. What direction is it from the entrance to Les Gourmandes?

I would have thought that if Bruce were going to open another place, that he would have gone 'down-market' from Le Gourmande, but this doesn't sound like its much less expensive.

Edited April 25, 2004 by tighe (log)

[LaurieA-B]

Here's a link to Sara Dickerman's review in The Stranger. My impression is that you can go all out, as Steve did, or have drinks and nibbles (not cheaply, but for considerably less than a whole meal at Le Gourmand). Frites and a cocktail sound good to me.

[tsquare]

I'm having a hard time envisioning how it could be 'next-door'.  What direction is it from the entrance to Les Gourmandes?

To the south -away from the corner and Market Street. And the garden patio is south of that.

I tried it last fall and thought it was sweet and stylish but too expensive. The tidbits I ate were okay, but didn't make me want to rush to the restaurant. I thought I posted about it at the time, but I guess I didn't.

[SparrowsFall]

Steve...I'm having a hard time envisioning how it could be 'next-door'. What direction is it from the entrance to Les Gourmandes?

Sambar is south of Le Gourmand. So from the front door of Le Gourmand (which faces northwest), walk a dozens paces south.

[chuck]

I guess I could just call them, but can someone tell me if they're open on Tuesdays?

[SparrowsFall]

can someone tell me if they're open on Tuesdays?

Citysearch sez:

Mon-Thu 5:30-12am

Fri-Sat 5:30-2am

[malarkey]

The Surpasse Tout ($10)--aptly named--is made of citron flavored vodka, peach brandy, framboise, and--I know you all make this at home--house-made rose syrup. Garnished with dried rose petals. It's just ethereal, like nothing you've ever tasted before.

oh I'd be all over that one.. Union also makes a "rosy" martini, I believe has rose water in it (maybe syrup..?) and is garnished with a couple rose petals. It's a knock-out.

[LEdlund]

I met friends at Sambar for drinks and appetizers one night and thought it was fabulous. The drinks were a little on the high side, but not much higher than downtown locations and they are really good. We ordered only small plates so the prices didn't knock me out. I love the "feel" of the room. It was a cold when we were there so the french doors leading out to the patio were closed but I imagine on a warm evening they would be lovely.

[little ms foodie]

I think Justin is one of the best bartenders in the city. We love going for a cocktail or two. There are always very unusual and interesting drinks - ask about the specials, they aren't printed on the menu!

But don't tell too many people about this cute little gem, there aren't seats for everyone! haha!

[jbonne]

i'll second (or third, or whatever) the praise for Justin. not only a terrific bartender, but his knowledge of the wines is spot-on, and he's steered me to terrific glasses of stuff i would never have otherwise ordered.

now they just need to work on their pricing ...