[PDX] Nuestra Cocina

[ExtraMSG]

Tried Nuestra Cocina (2135 SE Division) with my wife tonight. It's semi-upscale Mexican without upscale prices. The room is simple and open with large windows on two walls. The counter, where my wife and I chose to sit (there were tables open), is right on top of the chefs. You'll almost certainly carry on a conversation with them if you sit at the counter. Half the time they'll be serving you, too.

The menu is split into three sections (plus a dessert menu): antojitos y ensaladas (small plates -- literally little pleasures -- and salads), caldos y platos (soups and dishes), and otras cositas (other little things). The appetizers range from $4-$7 and include things such as pork tacos, chicharron and salsa, and ceviche. The entrees range from $8-$14 and include things such as chicken in red mole, albondigas, gorditas, and shrimp torta. The sides range from $3-$4 and include things such as refried beans and Mexican rice. The desserts are $5.50 each and include things like fruit crepes, orange flan, and lemon empenadas.

My wife ordered the camarones con recado de tamarindo (grilled tamarind marinated prawns, $7) for her appetizer. They were grilled in shell with the legs still attached as well. On the side was a decent portion of jicama salad and a green chile salsa. There were about half a dozen medium-sized prawns covered in the crusted sauce. They were a pain in the ass to peel (ultimately a mistake, I think; they need to figure something out), but had a good flavor.

I had the sopes de chorizo, frijoles, y chile arbol (round corn flour cakes filled with black beans and Mexican sausage topped with salsa, $5). Three good sopes -- the texture and flavor of the masa was nice. The beans were good and the chorizo decent. They don't make their own chorizo and I think it can be improved. But overall they were quite good and a very good value. You'd get less sope per dollar at many good taquerias in town.

For her entree, my wife ordered the huachinango (red snapper, $14). It was nicely cooked in banana leaves with poblanos. That description isn't adequate, though. There were other flavorful bits and a nice jus flowing from the interior of the banana leaf. The fish had no off flavor and was tender and juicy. It was served with a cilantro sauce on the side and nicely roasted potatoes.

I had the cochinita pibil (slow-cooked seasoned pork, $13). They braise theirs and I'm not sure if they use the traditional banana leaves, but it had a nice flavor, was a huge portion, and was very tender. They serve it on beans and top it with pickled red onions.

For dessert, my wife had a special, the carmelized plantains with vanilla bean ice cream. It was decent, but they need to add a sweeter layer of carmelization to the plaintains. They were very starchy and the vanilla ice cream wasn't enough to balance that. The texture was nice, but as they cooked it, bananas would have worked better.

I had the pastel de chocolate con helado de canela (chocolate cake with cinnamon ice cream). The cinnamon ice cream was very good. The chocolate pound cake was pretty good too, but I prefer a moister chocolate cake. But note, I'm not inclined to like chocolate cakes at all. I prefer things like molten chocolate cakes. I got this for the ice cream. However, they could have iced or sauced the cake a bit to help me out. The plate was sauced with caramel, but not a lot.

Overall, though the desserts and dessert menu looks better than most Mexican places and fits in with places of a similar style.

I'm very encouraged by this place. Its closest competitor is clearly Taqueria Nueve. The prices are similar and the style is similar. I'm not sure which is better yet.

This place reminds me of Malanga a bit -- an attempt to lighten and refine Latin comfort foods a bit. But this place succeeds because the flavors and textures are there. I think Diana Kennedy could eat here and not be disappointed. I'd like to eat here and then Taqueria Nueve. I get back from California in a 10 days, so anyone up for it, I'm already game.

[trillium]

My wife ordered the camarones con recado de tamarindo (grilled tamarind marinated prawns, $7) for her appetizer.  They were grilled in shell with the legs still attached as well.  On the side was a decent portion of jicama salad and a green chile salsa.  There were about half a dozen medium-sized prawns covered in the crusted sauce.  They were a pain in the ass to peel (ultimately a mistake, I think; they need to figure something out), but had a good flavor.

snip

I'd like to eat here and then Taqueria Nueve. I get back from California in a 10 days, so anyone up for it, I'm already game.

I love shrimp or other shellfish that are cooked in their shells. You don't lose so much flavor that way...messy yes, but tastier. I think it's an approach to shellfish that doesn't get used enough in mainstream American cooking, but does get used to a good effect by culinary traditions in Asia, Europe and Latin America. I can think of a few exceptions in the US, like Louisiana, but for the most part, it's hard to even find a shrimp with the head left on!

Let me know if eGullet/hound people decide to do something, I'm game. It'd be nice to know ahead of time, instead of after the fact (hint...hint).

regards,

trillium

[duckduck]

Go and sign in on portlandfood.org and you'll get an e-mail sent directly to you letting you know exactly where we're going and what's coming up! Hint, hint. So are you coming to the Sukothai outing on tuesday 4/20? You like thai food, right? We'd love to meet you, Trillium!

[trillium]

I wasn't talking about that, I was talking about Suzanne's visit..but thanks. I had plans for the 20th before you guys decided on that date, but I'll most likely be up for the next one!

regards,

trillium

[ExtraMSG]

I know some people even like to suck the legs with shell-on shrimp. I just think something should be done to make it easier. Maybe it was the tamarind making it especially sticky or something, but dammit, I had a real hard time getting the shells off and I'm experienced with cleaning shrimp. Maybe pre-loosening the shell or trying to get a fat under the shell first or more fat in the marinade, etc. I actually agree that especially with harsh methods such as grilling, shell on makes a big difference. But I wouldn't order them again and my wife, who did order them and makes me do all the dirty work, would certainly never order them again.

I still want to make some occasional trips, maybe with small groups, to various Indian and Thai places around town -- some sort of curry club. There are so many now you'd think one or two would make the grade for you.

[malarkey]

I know some people even like to suck the legs with shell-on shrimp.

Maybe in this case you should just eat the shell....?

Malarkey, a confirmed shrimp shell eater

[ExtraMSG]

Well, I used to always eat the shells on sunflower seeds when I was a kid, but I always regretted it the next day, if you know what I mean. I don't want to have to pass the exoskeleton of a crustacean. I did actually get a little in my mouth and I'm not sure I could have really eaten them. This is really something you normally do?

[malarkey]

Well, I used to always eat the shells on sunflower seeds when I was a kid, but I always regretted it the next day, if you know what I mean. I don't want to have to pass the exoskeleton of a crustacean. I did actually get a little in my mouth and I'm not sure I could have really eaten them. This is really something you normally do?

absolutely. especially when its in that esteemed dish: salt and pepper prawns. but I've eaten the shells even on poached prawns. they really don't hurt the next day. well, they don't hurt me anyways....

[duckduck]

Some friends invited me to the buffet on 82nd and Holgate and they serve shrimp with the shells still on. I tried them but it really wasn't my thing. They weren't bad or anything, I just didn't care for the texture. Kinda crunchy and not in a way I cared for. To each his own.

[Jill-O]

When the shrimp are very crispy, I just crunch 'em and don't worry about the shells. That usually includes s&p shrimp.

When the shrimp themselves, though, aren't prepared to be really crispy, I don't find the extra crunch of the shells pleasant at all and I'll peel them. Pam, I can believe that shrimp sitting on a buffet would not be a great 'shrimp with shell on eating experience.'

Usually it is a situation where only the end of the shell still attached to the tail is present, though. I'm not as thrilled when all the legs are attached (unless it is ALL really crispy - then it's no worse than soft shell crab).

The only exception to this, for me, is when the shrimp is whole - meaning head on. Then it is often worth the trouble. I love that creamy rich tidbit you suck out when you pull the head off. Shrimp brains or pancreas or something, I suppose, but tasty! Anyone who takes pride in picking a lobster clean and getting all the good bits would appreciate it, I think. Hopefully, it also means that they are fresher because head-on shrimp have a shorter shelf life - I think that they have to be used within 48 hours or so. (after catching or thawing, I suppose)

[anchovy]

Haven't been (yet) or tried the dish, but I do know that traditionally the shell is eaten. I used to work at Cafe Azul and we served similar prawns.

[trillium]

We went to Nuestra Cocina on Thursday night after I dutifully sat through a showing of "Enter the Dragon" at Clinton St. Theater (somehow the restored print didn't make the movie any less cheesy, it just meant you could see the makeup on the actors more clearly...I'm owed one depressing French flick for having sat through that without complaining).

Our waitperson was not my favorite, the kind that tells you everything is really really good no matter what you say or order, I like someone a little more opinionated and less mothery. Anyway, I had the caldo de albondigas and the partner had the gorditas and a generous pour of tempranillo. The tortillas and salsa they bring to your table are quite good. I really liked both salsas. I found it strange to have them as a pre-dinner munchy, I prefer to have plenty of steamed tortillas with what I'm eating, but that's just me. The soup was disappointing, it had a tinned taste, maybe from canned tomatoes or stock? I don't know. The mint layed over the meatballs was a nice touch, but I wish the menu had a better description of the dish then just soup with mint and meatballs (or something like that). If I had known it was going to come with as many big chunks of carrots as meatballs I might not have ordered it because I'm not a cooked carrot fan. I also missed the dishes of oregano, lime, cilantro and chilli that I'm used to getting when I order these dinner soup dishes in other places (both high and low end spots).

The gorditas were better, stuffed with avacado, black beans and a little fresh cheese, but they were very bland without the salsa.

I have hopes for this place, and I'll certainly go back and give it another try. The salsa and fresh tortillas were very good, so maybe we just ordered the wrong stuff.

regards,

trillium

[ExtraMSG]

I sat at the counter and the lady who makes the tortillas was pressing them right there. She's clearly a Mexican immigrant with the capped teeth like you see in Mexico on so many people.

I, too, would have liked more tortillas with the meal. I kept having to ask for them and they'd just give a couple. In that situation, you're just constantly making tacos. In Mexico you always get too many tortillas.

Did you notice how fair the pricing was, though? Our portions were quite large and the prices as low or lower than your average Mexican-American place.

[trillium]

I don't go to Mexican-American places so I can't comment on that part, but I will say that from my point of view I wouldn't call this a cheap place, but I don't think the prices are at all unreasonable for what you get on your plate.

Those tortillas were great and they're what will get me to go back.

regards,

trillium

[ExtraMSG]

Well, consider this: 1) The prices are more in line with a TGI Fridays or Olive Garden than most independent tablecloth restaurants in Portland; 2) Check out this menu from Who Song and Larry's. $14 for shrimp fajitas. $11 for carnitas.

[anchovy]

Fresh torillas? I'm going for sure, got to be one of my favorite foods!

[ExtraMSG]

Note, then, that Salvador's in Woodburn, a taqueria/tienda/carniceria, makes every tortilla to order. I believe 3 jalapenos on division also makes tortillas to order, though they may just do so for some things. San Felipe also makes their own tortillas, I believe, though I'm not sure if they do them fresh for every order. Also, Poncho's in Vancouver will hecho a mano your tortillas for an extra 25 cents per. I'm sure there are other places as well that make them fresh, but I haven't checked into it. If you go to the Tortilleria y Tienda de Leon on Glisan and 162nd (they have another store in Vancouver), you'll get tortillas fresh off the conveyor belt.

btw, just to put it out there, but it looks like we'll be doing an all day taqueria crawl through the outskirts of Portland Sunday, May 23rd:

http://www.portlandfood.org/modules.php?na...=viewtopic&t=30

[ExtraMSG]

Mixed results on my third visit to Nuestra Cocina. Got the sopes that I got on my first visit for an appetizer. They've definitely reduced the size of the portion. It was a big portion before. Now it's a small portion -- three silver dollar sized sopes. Had the ceviche also. I'd say it's a bad ceviche. The fish was ground up You get none of the nice texture of the fish. The fish was a little fishy, too, and the ceviche overpowered by onion. The chips that came with it were decent, though a few were a little overcooked.

The entrees, however, were much better. We got the huachinango (snapper), the tamales, and the camarones al mojo de ajo. All three were fair portions and tasty. My shrimp were the most expensive item at $16. The tamales were vegetarian, the masa light, and the tamales flavorful. The snapper is still one of their best dishes, cooked in banana leaves and served with roasted potatoes and a couple salsas. The shrimp are garlicky and smoky and served with some nice beans.

I was definitely disappointed with the appetizers this time, but the entrees were very good. I can't an old menu, though, to compare whether the menu is changing much or to see if the prices have changed at all.

I went to Taqueria Nueve not long ago. I like both about equally, I think. And I still think both are slightly better than La Calaca overall, which is often overpriced and inconsistent on the more expensive entrees.

Still, none of these are in the same league as Cafe Azul but they're worth eating at and some items are very good.

[whippy]

so, this is sorta off topic, but is the joint busy? it's sorta in a great location, but also sorta hidden. are people eating there? this has a big impact on the quality of the food!

[ExtraMSG]

We were there at 9:00 and most of the tables had people. That was on a Wednesday. They just got featured in Portland Monthly, too. It's not a big place and they generally only have two people working the kitchen, often only one.

I don't think turnover in a place like this matters quite as much as a Mexican-American restaurant where lots of items are premade and sitting around. Most things appear to be made ala minute (including the tortillas).

Edited August 7, 2004 by ExtraMSG (log)

[whippy]

I don't think turnover in a place like this matters quite as much as a Mexican-American restaurant where lots of items are premade and sitting around.

no biggie, i just meant that a slow restaurant sometimes has cashflow problems which can affect the quality of the food, not that a slow restaurant has premade food sitting around. thanks for the reply.

[trillium]

I live very near by. It's pretty packed around 7ish most nights, with people waiting. And this is with all that outdoor seating too.

regards,

trillium