Paprika

[ronnie_suburban]

Woodburner's quote: "Paprika is used primarily for its coloring properties, and sometimes for flavor."

Don't quite agree, see the Original Hungarian Paprikas available in Hungary

(possibly in a Eastern European ethnic groceries )

1. Kulonleges (there is 'two dots' over the "u" & "o") - Exquisite Delicacy

2. Csemege - Delicacy / hot & mild

3. Edesnemes - noble sweet

4. Feledes ( the first two 'e's are 'accented' ) - semi sweet

5. Rozsa ( the 'o' is 'accented' ) - fiery

6. Eros ( 'two dots' over the 'o' ) - hot

     

      I think all are called "Kalocsa Szeged [ Magyar] "    (Not sure, plus as always: I stand corrected.)

Yes, these are the varieties/grades described by Lang (in the quote from Davidson) which I posted back on page 1 of this thread. But even at the best spice stores and ethnic groceries, they're mostly hard to find.

The Spice House in Evanston, IL is still the only place I've actually found paprika denoted by its grade--the exquisite is offered there. If anyone knows of other places where specific, graded paprika can be found, please share your source.

=R=

[ronnie_suburban]

As to what is a "lot"... I pour paprika into a big ziplock bag and toss the thighs around in there to get them completely coated with as much as I can get to stick.

I love this method, it works beautifully and keeps the kitchen from turning orange. I do sometimes add kosher salt to the paprika (and garlic powder when doing a brisket) before the shaking commences.

=R=

[fifi]

Thanks for bringing up the salt, ronnie. I forgot about that. If I have planned ahead enough to give the thighs a quick brine, I don't add salt to the paprika. Also, I did add a little Penzey's garlic powder this last time.

I don't think I mentioned it further up-thread. The first time I did this lately (inspired by the new crock pot that didn't work well) I actually used Tone's paprika. I buy those big containers of some things at Sam's since I mix up a lot of rubs and such. Anyway, that is what I had in the house when the whim struck. Actually, I find it is one of my favorites.

The other thing that the bag method saves you from is orange fingernails.

The last batches I made in the crock pot have required removing the chicken and cooking down the onion "sauce". There seems to be a lot of water in the onions lately. Any sweet onion like a 1015 will typically really have a lot.

[bleachboy]

like a 1015

Off topic, but what does this mean? Fifi, you do seem to know your onions.

[fifi]

I am not sure this is really off topic since the amount of water contributed by the onions is an issue in ronnie_suburban's and my paprika chicken experiences. This also came up on the onion confit thread.

"Sweet onions" like 1015's, walla wallas, Maui, Vidalias, and others seem to be more "moist". I am not sure that that is a fair term. But I do know that they do not keep as well as some of the other more mundane types of onions. This is sometimes attributed to the higher moisture content. I do not have any data that says that this is so. But I do know that the various "sweet onions" do not keep as long in my cupboard and are prone to converting to a disgusting slimy mass if left too long. Plain old white or yellow onions seem to keep a lot longer.

[mnebergall]

According to Russ Parsons, using so-called "sweet onions" for anything but eating them raw, is a waste of money. Whatever quality they have over other types of onions is lost once you start cooking them.

[fifi]

According to Russ Parsons, using so-called "sweet onions" for anything but eating them raw, is a waste of money. Whatever quality they have over other types of onions is lost once you start cooking them.

Russ is absolutely correct. We discussed this in some depth on the onion confit thread. I don't use "sweet" onions for cooking.

[joiei]

Fifi, the next time your in Ft Worth, check out Pendery's just off downtown. They list American, Spanish and Hungarian Paprikas on their web site. God, I love walking into that store, it smells of spices, peppers and good.

[Pumpkin Lover]

I completely agree about the onions.  I generally use 1 medium onion for every two thighs because they do shrink down quite a bit.

Hey Ronnie--I wanted to ask:

I looove onions. Do you think that, if I used a generic onion like "Spanish onions" (which are what I usually pick up in the grocery store), I could use two onions for two thighs of chickeny chicken? I only plan to make two thighs at a time (small pot), and I'd like a lot of sauce.

Also, when you brown the thighs in the skillet before braising them, do you brown them in olive oil, or do you just toss the thighs in dry? I think there was some talk about paprika possibly burning, so I wanted to know if you used fat to brown them.

(I also have never really "browned" anything before, so I don't even know if the process involves fat).

One last general question for the board: where's the best place to buy paprika in NYC? Kalustyan's? Are there secret spice shops that people frequent?

[ronnie_suburban]

I completely agree about the onions.  I generally use 1 medium onion for every two thighs because they do shrink down quite a bit.

Hey Ronnie--I wanted to ask:

I looove onions. Do you think that, if I used a generic onion like "Spanish onions" (which are what I usually pick up in the grocery store), I could use two onions for two thighs of chickeny chicken? I only plan to make two thighs at a time (small pot), and I'd like a lot of sauce.

Also, when you brown the thighs in the skillet before braising them, do you brown them in olive oil, or do you just toss the thighs in dry? I think there was some talk about paprika possibly burning, so I wanted to know if you used fat to brown them.

(I also have never really "browned" anything before, so I don't even know if the process involves fat).

One last general question for the board: where's the best place to buy paprika in NYC? Kalustyan's? Are there secret spice shops that people frequent?

Hi Pumpkin Lover,

I think you could use as many or as few onions as you'd like. Generally speaking, the more onions you use, the more liquid will be produced. If there is too much liquid, it may not be very flavorful so, as Fifi posted above, you may want to reduce that liquid down after the thighs have cooked, if it is not 'concentrated' enough for your liking.

As for fat and browning...I generally use boneless, skinless thighs and too much browning isn't really a good thing because there is no skin and the flesh becomes dried out and unappetizing if it is too browned. I'd start with either olive oil or butter--whichever you prefer--over low heat and just brown the thighs slightly on both sides (2-3 minutes maybe) before adding the onions. I'm sure that browning the thighs will add some flavor but I don't think it's as vital in this dish as it with shanks, pot roast, etc. Also, thighs are pretty fatty (even when skinless) so adding too much additional fat can detract from the dish.

Lastly, I cannot tell you where in NYC to source good paprika, but Penzey's web site is a great source for paprika and other spices too. I like that the products shipped from their website are cyrovac'd and arrive in very fresh condition. But, there obviously have to be great places in NYC to get these types of products. But hell, even the Szeged product (pictured up-thread) which I bought at the regular grocery, produces a great end product. As I mentioned before, it was the paprika I used when I 'discovered' chickeny chicken. That said, if I had to choose one paprika, it would be hard not to choose the Penzey's sweet hungarian. I've found that it's really become my #1 lately.

=R=

[Pumpkin Lover]

Thanks, Ronnie!

[mnebergall]

Here is an interesting letter to the editor in today's Washinigton Post regarding, of all things, paprika.

[ronnie_suburban]

Here is an interesting letter to the editor in today's Washinigton Post regarding, of all things, paprika.

Thanks for the link mnebergall.

The real reason that most Americans underuse paprika is that they buy from the grocers a brownish, tasteless powder sold as paprika; it neither tastes, smells nor looks like the real thing. The real stuff suffers from guilt by association with this knockoff. Producers of this powder may be using the brown stems of the paprika plant to comply with labeling rules while laughing all the way to the bank.

Apparently, we Paprika afficionados are just about set to rise up.

=R=

[fifi]

I didn't feel like registering to look at the article but if there are knaves out there adulterating the sacred paprika I say we get a rope.

Oooo... I am up for another batch of paprika chicken.

[mnebergall]

I didn't feel like registering to look at the article but if there are knaves out there adulterating the sacred paprika I say we get a rope.

Oooo... I am up for another batch of paprika chicken.

Here is another choice quote from the article:

The real spice, as in good-quality Hungarian paprika, comes in six categories that range from kulonleges (exquisite and delicate) to eros (hot and pungent). Good Hungarian cooks stock several, if not all, of the grades in their larder and consume mass quantities of paprika in the elegant and tasty dishes that require the flavor of this precious spice.

[fifi]

Well, the "mass quantities" part of the deal probably describes my favorite paprika chicken. I get as much paprika pounded onto those chicken thighs as I possibly can. That is why I went to skinless thighs.

[ronnie_suburban]

I certainly hope that Laszlo Pentek, the person who wrote that letter, is also a member of eGullet.

=R=

[ronnie_suburban]

Well, the "mass quantities" part of the deal probably describes my favorite paprika chicken. I get as much paprika pounded onto those chicken thighs as I possibly can. That is why I went to skinless thighs.

Damn straight Fifi!

Clearly, mass quantities are used by only the most discerning paprika disciples.

=R=

[Fred Jauss]

Fifi - I made your crockpot paprika chicken last night for dinner. Needless to say, it was fantastic!! It's even better the next day on toast as a sandwich!

Thanks for the great idea!

[irodguy]

Try some smoked paprika mixed into ground beef. You end up with a great burger. Taste like bacon.

[Richard Kilgore]

I have done this slow-cooked paprika onion/chicken several times now. After doing it with the hot and sweet Szeged in various ratios, I tried Santo Domingo Pimenton de la Vera, an exquisite smokey Spanish paprika. The best yet.

I also picked up a tin of another Spanish Pimenton de la Vera: La Dalia by Jose M Hernandez, S.L. I have not tried it yet, but will report back when I do.

I got these last two at CookWorks in Dallas, but have seen Pimenton de la Vera on websites. If I can find a link I'll post it.

[ronnie_suburban]

I have done this slow-cooked paprika onion/chicken several times now. After doing it with the hot and sweet Szeged in various ratios, I tried Santo Domingo Pimenton de la Vera, an exquisite smokey Spanish paprika. The best yet.

I also picked up a tin of another Spanish Pimenton de la Vera: La Dalia by Jose M Hernandez, S.L. I have not tried it yet, but will report back when I do.

I got these last two at CookWorks in Dallas, but have seen Pimenton de la Vera on websites. If I can find a link I'll post it.

Richard,

Did you use 100% smoked paprika this last time out, or a blend?

=R=

[Richard Kilgore]

100% smoked. I made it again yesterday. Still great! Still haven't tried the other little tin -- half as much at 50% higher price, so I feel like cherishing it before using.

[ronnie_suburban]

100% smoked. I made it again yesterday. Still great!

Very nice. I definitely must try this.

As for the pricier stock, just think of it as orange gold...orange gold

=R=

[fifi]

Fifi - I made your crockpot paprika chicken last night for dinner. Needless to say, it was fantastic!! It's even better the next day on toast as a sandwich!

Thanks for the great idea!

Oooo... The sandwich idea is growing on me. I am thinking putting some shredded chicken and drained onions on a hollowed out French or Italian loaf, brushed with olive oil. Then do a pressed sandwich and slice it for serving. Maybe add some cheese? What kind? Provolone?

I am now on the hunt for the smoked paprika.