Charcuterie

[mikeycook]

I am currently enrolled in the Institute of Culinary Education Culinary Management program in New York City. I am looking into Culinary Arts programs following graduation in September in and around New York, but would also like to consider programs in France (Paris, Lyon, Southwest... just about anywhere). One of my main interests is in charcuterie and I was hoping someone could tell me about some of the better charcuterie programs in France. I am particularly interested in learning to prepare and age hams and dried sausages.

Can anyone point me to some information on culinary programs in France that are particularly strong in charcuterie? I am interested in full-time programs as well as shorter-term intensive programs.

Edited February 2, 2004 by mikeycook (log)

[Bux]

Have you considered trying to apprentice somewhere if you're set on learning this craft? I'm sorry to say I really don't have much of a clue to offer on how to go about doing that, but it strikes me as a good idea. Do you speak French, Italian or Spanish. For certain kinds of charcuterie the French are the unexcelled masters, but when it comes to ham, I'm going to suggest the best is from Spain. This may offend some prosciutto lovers. I think the Spanish hold their own in the dried sausage category as well, although I'm not sure who has the greatest variety. It may be the Italians. The Spanish do well curing other cuts of pork such as the loin (lomo) as well as dry curing meat from other animals. Some of the latter are regional specialties.

Back to France, as appropriate to this forum, some of the best cured meat I've had was purchased in Annecy. There's a local producer specializing in various Alpine air cured pork products. I was about to aplogize for forgetting the name, but a quick look at my travel notes found this. Chez Abel, Le Petit Saloir at 6, rue de l'Isle, Annecy. I'm not sure if this is the producer or just the shop where we made our purchase, but I thought it was the producer's own shop.

I don't know much about the program you're in in NY, nor do I recall how much, if any, on the job experience you have, but I'm a great fan of working with the best person you can find in your metier. I believe formal schooling has a great value in its structure, but also has its limits. A combination usually works best. The exact combination will depend on the student and the opportunities he finds. Whether you go to school to begin a special education in charcuterie or not, I'd advise trying to visit some great producers of the kind of product that interests you. In France, in particular, there are great artisanal workers in the food crafts. Meet them at food salons and fairs and go knocking on doors.

[mikeycook]

Have you considered trying to apprentice somewhere if you're set on learning this craft?

My career counselor at school recommended this to me today as well, and I am going to start to look for opportunities (i.e. go to various establishments in NY and see if there are unpaid intern opportunities). There are a number of charcuterie establishments in NY, although most are Italian. I would ultimately like to participate in a program in France (I have always loved going to charcuteries in Paris and elsewhere) and am trying to acquire the type of of background necessary to get those opportunities. My current professional experience is minimal, although I have been making charcuterie of my own for several years (mainly confits, rillettes, pates, fresh sausages, etc.)

Regarding hams, I am a fan of the Spanish (Iberico, Serrano) and Italian (Parma, San Domenica), but I am also a big fan of Jambon de Bayonne, so I thought the southwest might have some opportunities (although obviously most regions of France have a ham of their own) and several other types of charcuterie (like confit) seem to have their roots there as well. I also know that there are several fine dried sausage varieties in Lyon and further south, which is why Lyon seemed like a possibility. I am diligently working on my French and hope to make it happen eventually.

Thanks so much for the input.

[Bux]

French country hams are very good, but I've noticed that in both Bayonne and Paris there's a big market for Spanish hams which are becoming prized in France. Lyon has a pretty good, maybe even great, central market--les Halles de Lyon--with some excellent butcher shops and charcuteries. For the most part, these seemed like relatively small operations. I have no idea how amiable they'd be to taking on a stagiaire or just letting someone observe, but I'd bet it would be a great experience.

Closer to home, and less relevent to this forum, there are a few local chefs who make some of their own salumi. Tom Colicchio and Mario Batali come to mind.

[Louisa Chu]

Mike, that is so cool. I don't know who's strong in charcuterie training, but I'll ask over at Charles this week - they just won another Gold Medal this year - medal award winners for boudin blanc, noir, etc. Bonne chance.

[mikeycook]

Mike, that is so cool. I don't know who's strong in charcuterie training, but I'll ask over at Charles this week - they just won another Gold Medal this year - medal award winners for boudin blanc, noir, etc. Bonne chance.

Very much appreciated.

[lesanglierrouge]

I would also be interested in this. Anyone know of good producers in Italy?