WTN: '61 Cheval Blanc & '28 Cos D'Estournel

[Mark Sommelier]

My friend Henry stopped by the other evening to celebrate his 75th birthday. He asked what I would like him to bring. "Something simple like 1961 Cheval Blanc" says I. Henry has quite an extensive cellar collected over the past 40 years. We started with a 1949 Auxey-Duresses rouge, a simple village wine from Domaine de la Bousseliere. The wine was still going strong. Very mature on the nose, still retaining significant sweetness, this was a great reminder of how pre-'73 scandal wines were made. A surprise for me was that the wine did not take a dive after 15 minutes or so, but kept blossoming. What a great appetizer. I opened and decanted the '61 Cheval Blanc. This is my favorite wine among all. It did not disappoint. In a tasting several years ago of all the First Growths on both banks, the CB kept pace with the Petrus as my all time two favorite wine tasting experiences. The initial sniff of the glass brings to mind the opening of Beethoven's 9th Symphony. Quiet power lies there promising great things to come. Re-checked 45 minutes later, it is like seeing an old friend after many years. The bouquet haunts. Exotic spice, sweet fruit, chocolate. Not typical Medoc-like leather and graphite. A seriously long finish rewards me. This is the most harmonious wine I have ever tasted. Henry has a habit of writing purchasing info on the corner of his labels. The Cheval Blanc was purchased in Washington in the mid-60's for $6. ! !

Next came 1928 Cos D'Estournel. This was a chateau bottling recently released, not the expected Nicolas or Berry Bros. bottlings so commonly seen. The wine had been recorked, as well. Light in color, the bouquet was the most unusual I have encountered. Sweet parrafin, almost like crayons pervaded. This was the third wine of this vintage I have tasted, and the best. Not youthful, but long from dead, the fruit stood up strong. I cannot find words to describe the complexity on the palate.

The surprise for dessert was a 1908 Rayne-Vignaud Sauternes.

Very dark amber. It certainly showed its age. Wines of this age have sherry like components. Oxidation is definitely part of it, but the wine was really interesting in the glass, changing on cue every 5 minutes. Such a treat. Life is tough.

[docsconz]

Wow, am I envious and upset that I didn't buy wines in the 60's! Of course, I was only about 4yo when the CB came out What a fun tasting this must have been.

[budrichard]

Of all the Bordeaux vintages, the 61 consistantly yielded very good to great wines. We are down to our last case of Chateau Beausejour. All the rest were excellent and we have fond memories of the wines and the prices. -Dick

[mdibiaso]

Great note. Have you ever tried the 61 Palmer or Jaboulet La Chapelle. How would you compare those to the Cheval Blanc.

[Schneier]

Excellent. I would expect the '61 to stand up to some air, and not immediately fade. It's one of those vintages, after all.

[ctgm]

Mark, Did you put the 1949 Auxey-Duresses rouge thru the Wine Clip

[Mark Sommelier]

Mark, Did you put the 1949 Auxey-Duresses rouge thru the Wine Clip 

Nope. I'm done with the clip.