Pinot Noir in Alsace

[Michael Laiskonis]

The other day, I siezed upon the opportunity to taste a 1997 Pinot Noir from Zind-Humbrecht. I was expecting some degree of austerity, but found it vegetal, somewhat 'cooked', and overall more interesting than delicious. What should I have expected to find in this wine? Was it simply past its prime? Long having been a fan of Zind-Humbrecht's whites, and considering that they are deemed one of the world's finest producers of such, is there a certain approach they take with regard to Pinot Noir? What is the history of its plantings in Alsace? Notorious for being a fickle grape to begin with, are there unique soil/micro-climate considerations that justify its occasional appearance there?

On a side note, I was recently gifted a bottle of Inniskillin Pinot Noir (vintage forgotten). While I wouldn't likely seek it out, it was drinkable, though interestingly gamay-like, fruity and very up-front, with no real backbone to speak of. What is the overall track record for Pinot Noir grown in these cooler climates worldwide? Are there any noteworthy examples?

[Mark Sommelier]

Last year, talking with Olivier Humbrecht and his (gorgeous) wife, he said, "She won't let me release any more pinot noirs". I have a '96 Paul Blanck Cuvee "F" on my list that I use to confuse the great wine experts who visit my place. It is almost always taken for a Cotes de Nuits. I think it is a most interesting wine.

[Craig Camp]

Really good pinot noir wines from Alsace are few and far between. They seem to insist out of tradition more than anything else. With Burgundy a short trip south you have to wonder why. The same goes for Spatburgunder in Germany and Champagne has its Bouzy Rouge. Every once in a while you get a pretty good one, but they always a suprise when you find them.

The climate for making fine pinot noir has a very narrow range. A little too cold and you end up with a herbal soup and too warm you end up with stewed tomatoes. Then there is the soil. You can have the perfect climate, but if you have the wrong dirt you get weird funky stuff.

[Craig Camp]

Last year, talking with Olivier Humbrecht and his (gorgeous) wife, he said, "She won't let me release any more pinot noirs". I have a '96 Paul Blanck Cuvee "F" on my list that I use to confuse the great wine experts who visit my place. It is almost always taken for a Cotes de Nuits. I think it is a most interesting wine.

Have not had it, but they do make nice wines. What is the alcohol? Does is still have some of that Alsatian herbalness?

[Phil Ward]

Generally speaking, I find most Alsace PNs to be fun and light. I have had a few where the fruit was masked by an oaked experiment.

I prefer the cleaner style of no oak.

On a side not, re Spatburgunder, I have had a few while in Germany that were quite delicious. Most of the best producers only make enough for themselves and their in country clients.

Phil

[dlc]

The same goes for Spatburgunder in Germany and Champagne has its Bouzy Rouge. Every once in a while you get a pretty good one, but they always a suprise when you find them.

The climate for making fine pinot noir has a very narrow range. A little too cold and you end up with a herbal soup and too warm you end up with stewed tomatoes. Then there is the soil. You can have the perfect climate, but if you have the wrong dirt you get weird funky stuff.

Just to stimulate the conversation I have had a number of exceptional late harvest Spatburgunders from the Rheingau region. I particular an 76 and 83 Wallufer Walkenberg Spatburgunder TBA from J B Becker. This was neither weird or funky.

[Craig Camp]

The same goes for Spatburgunder in Germany and Champagne has its Bouzy Rouge. Every once in a while you get a pretty good one, but they always a suprise when you find them.

The climate for making fine pinot noir has a very narrow range. A little too cold and you end up with a herbal soup and too warm you end up with stewed tomatoes. Then there is the soil. You can have the perfect climate, but if you have the wrong dirt you get weird funky stuff.

Just to stimulate the conversation I have had a number of exceptional late harvest Spatburgunders from the Rheingau region. I particular an 76 and 83 Wallufer Walkenberg Spatburgunder TBA from J B Becker. This was neither weird or funky.

Define "exceptional". How much did they cost and how would they relate against a pinot noir from a good Burgundy producer at the same price.

[pierreverte]

i have never found a very good alsacian pinot noir, they tend to be very light and usually too acidic, and do not seem to age well at all...they should be only bought young and cheaply, but do go well with indian food...however, alsacian sparkling 'cremant', blanc de noir (from pinot noir) can be a great bargain against champagne and is an excellent food wine...

[Bill Klapp]

In a word, "disaster". And if you expect disaster, Alsatian pinot noir rarely fails to meet expectations!

[Auxerrois]

No doubt good Alsatian pinot noirs are very few and far in between. Besides the extremely marginal climate for pinot the whole area is on the "wrong dirt". Alsace's soil consists of granite loess on granite bedrock from the Vosges Mountains. The gamay of the only other major wine region in France that is not planted on limestone sub-soils (Beaujolais) produces simple fruity wines that generally as good as the pinots. Most the pinot ends up as rose or adding richness to some cremants anyway.

For an interesting alternative pinot try Sancerre from a good producer, like Domaine Vacheron, smoky austere rasberies, yum.

[eat2much]

I find that the best way to be dissapointed by the Pinot Noir is to mistake the bottle for a bottle of Pinot Gris or Reisling from the same producer and then pop it in the fridge before going to work. Really bad cold but improves to sub par when at room temperature....