North Willamette Wineries?

[Flocko]

I am going to be in Salem, Oregon in early August for a few days attending a wedding. I have read articles and posts by Ellen, Fat Guy, Jason et al, lauding some of the sparkling wines produced by Argyle Winery. I plan to stop there and try some and buy some to take home.

Does anyone have any other winery suggestions in the North Willamette valley that I shouldn't miss??

Thanks!!!

[tighe]

When my wife and I were down there a few years ago, we nearly all the places we went. I really enjoyed the wines at Sokol Blosser, particularly some of their whites. Its just down the road from Argyle. Two places that we didn't get to visit, but have had great wines from are Archery Summit and WillaKenzie. I think both require appointments for tastings.

[Nevan]

There are no shortage of interesting wineries to visit in the North Willamette Valley, large and small, good and bad. You mentioned you will be in Salem, and you also mentioned Argyle. There's a bit of driving to be done between Salem and Dundee, where Argyle is. Assuming you have a bit of time, and that you are willing, you should try to plan out a tour. First thing to do is get a copy of Vintage Oregon, which is a free booklet put out by the Oregon Wine Advisory Board. It gives maps, opening hours, etc. can can be received by mail thru their website (www.oregonwine.org) or picked up at any winery in the area.

Here's a brief run down on some of what I think are the best bets, along with my own thumbnail sketch.

In the Salem area, St. Innocent makes excellently priced, high quality wines, particularly single vineyard Pinot noirs. Mark Vlossak is one of the best winemakers in Oregon. I think his Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot is superb (great red fruit character, nice spicy underlay with an earthy edge that reminds me of burgundy), though Shea (polished, velvety) and Temerpance Hill (tighter, less color, more minerals) are consistently good as well. They are usually open on weekends. Call 503-378-1526.

The Eola Hills region just to the west of Salem is home to some excellent wineries, and gets you onto Highway 99 which you can take north to the Dundee area (where Argyle is). Two of the best in the Eola Hills are Cristom and Bethel Heights--both specialize in (but are not limited to) pinot.

Cristom (503-375-3068) makes wonerful-to-truly-great pinot. Their reserve blend (concentrated red fruits with healthy but not overpowering wood) is one of the best in the state, and often overlooked. It is very consistent and does well with a couple of years bottle age. I love their Jessie Vineyard pinot--great spice, taut fruit--but almost all of them are excellent. 2000 was a superb vintage for pinot here, and they may still have some for you to taste, though I think they are on to 2001, which is more variable region-wide, but when good (and Cristom's are good) can be excellent.

Bethel-Heights (503-581-2262) also does superb pinots, though they are known for a more austere, less fruit-bomb style. I personally think their 2000 Southeast Block Reserve was the single best Oregon pinot of 2000 (big dusky aromas, forceful black cherry fruit, chocolate, and sweet spice), but they are probably sold out . . . so maybve they have the 2001 version released? Also look for their Flat Block reserve and Wadensvil cuvees. They also do a decent pinot gris, pinot blanc, and a new Syrah.

Witness Tree Vineyards is also located right close by these two, and their pinots can be very good value. If you have the time, stop in (you'll see the signs).

Moving north from the Eola Hills on 99W you'll come to McMinnville, and if you continue on you'll reach Dundee. This is where you'll find Argyle. Certainly Argyle (503-538-8520) makes the best sparkling wine in the area (though Soter Vineyards is making some absolutely killer sparkling, but still in very small quantities and doesn't have the range of Argyle . . but if you see a botle of Soter you might pick it up). I personally think Argyle's Blanc de blancs, Julia Lee's Block is quite exceptional, the best in Oregon--check to see if they have any available). Argyle is also one of the wineries focusing on Dijon clone chardonnay and you should check that out at the tasting room (winemaker Rollin Soles is part of a small group focusing on low-to-no oak, crisply structured and forwardly fruity chards, breaking the mold for Oregon chard). And, as if that weren't enough, Rollin also makes four different pinots that are consistently superb (I tend to favor their Nuthouse pinot . . . but that may be because that's where my wife says she found me).

When you are done at Argyle you might go across the street to the Ponzi Wine Bar. A young guy named Thomas runs the place for the Ponzi family (one of the oldest winemaking families in Oregon) and he and his staff are extremely knowledgeable and friendly. There is usually a good selection of wines to sample, and some very good food. This is a big hangout for the winemakers (though not usually on weekends, especially in the summer) and if you hang out you can pick up some good gosspi/tips.

Also in the immediate Dundee area are a few wineries of note. Erath--a pioneering Oregon label--is up the road from Dundee, in the hills. You pass some famous Oregon vineyards and the view is quite nice (from the top on a clear day you can see Mt. Hood very nicely over the rolling vineyards). I'm not a huge fan of Erath's wines right now, though they are improving, but they do have a good variety and they are well made. There is also the Lange winery (503-538-6476), which you get to by a winding gravel road. They have been making wine here for a long time and are extremely friendly and have a wonderful view of the valley. Don Lange pioneered oak fermented pinot gris (thick, lush, fruity), and that is definietly worth a try. Their Freedom Hill pinot is always good (coffee grounds, earth, dust, black cherry fruit), but usually requires ageing. The drive is worth it, though, for the experience and the variety of wines they offer. There is also the Torii Mor tasting room on the same road. Torii Mor has made some great wines in the past, and their 2000 pinots are pretty good (big-fruited, lots of cherry and blackberry, soft and tasty), though pricey. They make a nice pinot blanc--one of the few that actually seems to have a point to it.

Outside of Dundee, but nearby, are two of the biggies in Oregon: Domaine Drouhin Oregon and Archery Summit. Each of these wineries requires a call ahead and a fee to tour . . . but you get to taste some of the best pinot noir around. Archery Summit (800-732-8822) is the more architecturally interesting, and the folks there do a great job on the tour. The pours are generous and the wines are superb, though very expensive (lush red cherry fruit, lots of well integrated oak, great structure, layers of complexity). I like the Red Hills best (additional mineral in the terroir), but most seem to prefer Arcus (forward red fruit married to coffee grounds and toasty wood). Their wines have in the last few years been the standard of quality for many people.

DDO (503-864-2700) has recently opened to the public. Scott (general manager) or Tony (hospitality manager) usually give the tours--both great guys who are extremely knowledgeable. Again, you will get superb wines, and wonderful views. The regular DDO pinot (all their pinots are estate fruit) is superb (lean, nicely acidic, blackish fruit), the Laurene is wonderful (bigger, more character--a blend of the best barrels) and if there is still some left, the newly released (something like 75 cases total production) Louise is by far the best pinot of DDOs I've had (except, perhaps one or two of the very first ones) and is only available at the winery. Also try the chardonnay: Dijon clone and quite nicely crisp and fruity (no oak and butter here).

If you have time, you also should visit Carlton, a small town a couple of miles from Dundee. There's a slew of wineries in this area. I won't go into more detail since this is already a way-over-the-top post. I will give one pitch, though, and that is for The Tasting Room in Carlton. They carry wines from wineries that aren't open to the public (big names like Beaux Freres, and small newcomers like Bergstrom, Brooks, J. Christopher). The folks are knowledgeable--if eccentric--and it can be a great place to taste (for a fee; it is not a museum) and learn.

Oh yeah., there is WillaKenzie too. Nice wines, nice view. You're going to need a map to get there.

OK, that's enough said. Almost. You're going at a good time. Some of the 2001s will be released and they should be quite good (though the 2002s in barrel are absolutely killer). Hope this helps!! If you need more, holler.

[beans]

Excellent post Nevan!

[Flocko]

tighe and Nevan:

Thank you both for the tips and suggestions. I'm looking forward to searching out these wines and wineries!

Flocko

[tighe]

Great post Nevan. I think you've just appointed yourself eGullet PNW Oregon wine expert. I'll be in touch! ....

[Nevan]

Hey, always glad to help!

A few other quick thoughts that I mailed to Flocko. First, Oregon makes pinot noir best which also means it is expensive. There is a lot of low yield, hand-done growing/making that keeps the prices of the best pinots at $25 and above. Yup, not cheap. It doesn't mean we're all getting ripped off though. These winemakers really do (for the most part) focus on quality and they really do incurr the kind of costs that dictate these high prices (not nearly as many ego-driven extravagantly priced wines in OR as our good friends to the south like to make). Whether these more expensive wines are worth it is up to each individual (in my experience, many ARE worth it--if you've got the bucks, which I have less of now than a few years ago; like most everyone).

The higher volume wineries can get the benefits of economies of scale, and can produce good (but rarely brilliant) wines for less money. Examples of good ones to visit are Duck Pond, Sokol Blosser, Willamette Valley Vineyards, and King Estates (further south).

For the best VALUES in OR wines, I go to the whites. There are some tremendously good white wines made here right now (especially 2002 vintage), at excellent prices and without the price, pomp, and circumstance accompanying OR pinot. I look for the pinot gris, dry riesling, Dijon Clone chardonnay, and a few select viogniers.

Above all, it's just plain fun to taste through what a winery's got . . . no matter what they make!

-Nevan

[Flocko]

Hey, always glad to help!

A few other quick thoughts that I mailed to Flocko....

And Flocko is damned happy about it.

You tha man, Nevan!!