7. Time for Tea, Your Grace
Having breakfasted on a full-English breakfast, had a lunch of bangers and mash or pie and mash, you’d think our intrepid YouTubers might slow down. Not a bit of it! There is another cliché yet to be explored. We’re off for “afternoon tea”, no less, as all right-thinking British people do every day. Except they don’t.
Afternoon tea originated among the highest echelons of the aristocracy in the 1840s. Anna, Duchess of Bedford (1783- 1857) was a close friend of Queen Victoria. In those days, lunch was a fairly light affair at noon and dinner not usually served until as late as 8pm. Her Grace, unsurprisingly, got a bit peckish around 4 pm and one day ordered her servants to bring her a cup of tea, some bread and butter and some cake.
Anna Maria Russell, Duchess of Bedford
Tea had been drunk in England since the 1660s after being popularised by Charles II and his wife, but it was Anna who turned “tea” into a mini-meal. She then took to inviting her lady friends to join her for “tea” and the whole concept became a social event. This was copied by all the idle rich, aristocratic women of the time, becoming an institution among that class.
Gradually, by the 1880s the practice of taking afternoon tea had slipped down the social scale to the non-aristocratic upper class women, who would dress up in their best glad-rags, complete with long dresses, hats and gloves to gossip among themselves while elegantly downing petite sandwiches and cakes, along with a cup of tea, taking turns to host the events in the drawing rooms of England around 4-5 pm.
And there it largely stuck. The middle classes rarely indulged in inviting friends to “take tea” and the working classes never did – they were too busy trying to survive by working for those above them!
The habit of the afternoon tea in one’s drawing room pretty much died out after WW1 as the aristocracy went into decline and servants became fewer and fewer.
The middle classes continued to maybe have a light bite and a cuppa sometime in the afternoon, but not in any formal way. Today, with more women working than in former times, the practice is all but dead. It lasted in the traditional form for less than 100 years.
However, it continues in some restaurants, especially those in hotels. And this is where the YouTube army go. Few go to the great hotels such as the Ritz or the Savoy, both in London, where the privilege of sitting in their grand tearooms while nibbling daintily at a few cakes and sipping on a tea will set you back a minimum of a cool ₤55* ($78 USD) in the Ritz per person or ₤65 ($92)in the Savoy. Plus service charges. You aren’t really paying for the mini-meal, but paying rent!
The Ritz Afternoon Tea Menu is here (PDF)
The Savoy Afternoon Tea menu is here.
Tea at the Ritz
The famous luxury London department store, Harrods also serves afternoon tea (menu here), price-wise dropping in mid way between those two hotels, at ₤59 ($83.50)*. These prices, of course, don’t include the glass (or bottle) of champagne usually offered alongside. YouTubers making their latest Oscar winners would not be welcome in any of the above venues. Also, all the above have strict dress codes.
One of the cheaper options I’ve found in London is in this hotel near the British Museum (and near my London home) where the tea comes in at a mere ₤10.95 ($15.50) per person. This is not necessarily a recommendation – I’ve never eaten afternoon tea in my life and, although I know the hotel, I’ve never stepped inside. This website covers around 700 of the UK’s afternoon tea venues, searchable by location.
Although I have never taken part in an afternoon tea, I have eaten pretty much everything on their menus – there are few surprises. Of course the menu contents vary by price, although most include the almost obligatory cucumber sandwiches. Today many also include Devon or Cornwall scones with clotted cream and jam. This, however, is not traditional and is a recent trend. These are more correctly a separate experience known as Devon or Cornwall cream teas which I have eaten (see below).
So. it seems that afternoon teas are mainly eaten by visitors who may have seen too much Downton Abbey and the like. I have never heard of any of my social circle in London partaking in such a thing. Today people may have a 15 minute tea break in the afternoon, at work, but this will usually be a biscuit (cookie) and a mug of tea made by dunking a tea bag in the mug! No silver service or champagne.
* due to rise to ₤60 in October 2021
Image Credits
Anna Maria Russell, Duchess of Bedford - Public Domain
Tea at the Ritz - Herry Lawford; licenced under CC BY 2.0