Lotus

[cabrales]

(Breach #??): This place is so conscious about projecting hipness that it detracts from the cuisine. The facility is pretentious, without having any remaining basis to be, and fashion-driven. While there was good attendance at the bar later in the evening, for the meal portion the place was less than 75% full for the principal room (leaving aside the back rooms, which used to have been occupied). The pretentiousness began with the reservation process – many pre-recorded layers to get to an actual person; requirement of credit card AND a three-day-prior confirmation, an e-mail received from the restaurant reminding one of the date. The staff were people too focused on seeming cool, and not being particularly cool. The $55 prix fixe (before supplements, like for the foie gras) does not offer the type of food the restaurant used to (good-plus, at one point, about 2 years ago).

The amuse was a citrus goat cheese puff -- mundane. Citrus was a bit too stark for the goat cheese. Then, mushroom infused EVOO was made available for dipping with the bread.

Quartet of Foie Gras. This was different from the very nice version the last time around. Now, served on an “undulating” clear glass plate were the following. First, a seared piece of presumably (goose?) foie – this was not as warm as I subjectively prefer, and a bit too much like chicken liver in texture for some reason. Then, the nicest part of the dish – gelee of foie, which was really like softened foie, but not too softened. This was accompanied by marinated juliennes of celery stalks – not bad and not dominating. Then, a cromesqui of foie gras (not bad, and a real ball shape), a la Marc Meneau, atop a potato puree that had white truffle oil. The foie ice cream was too melted, and had too many marinated black raisins beneath it that overwhelmed the taste. The last foie item (making more items than a quartet would suggest) was some potato pastry with foie gras puree – mediocre.

Lobster in cassoulet (sic). This was presented nicely. in a U-shaped white bowl with nice lines. However, the height effect on the sides made utilization of utensils on the dish difficult. The lobster was undercooked (a very unusual complaint on my part). Baby veggies in the broth were fine.

Dessert was poached pear, with peppercorn ice cream (the latter item tasted weird). There were baklava effects to the pear, which was itself too softened and lacking in depth.

Overall, a disappointing meal, perhaps average-plus.

Edited November 20, 2002 by cabrales (log)

[anil]

Are we talkingabout the place in the Meat Packing District ? If so, in respecting my transiting into middle-age group --- Lotus was appropriately placed in the meat packing district - It was (initially) a meat market for peple of all persuation - maybe things have changed of late --

My 2 Kc

[cabrales]

Yes, Lotus is in the meat packing district. It still is a meat market for pretentious people. The bar area was fully occupied by the end of my meal, although I sensed that the "hipness" once perceived by such people from being at Lotus has dissipated. The food used to be better at one point.

Interestingly, the chef is the same as that supervising Bruno Jamais' new place. The December 2002 edition of Bon Appetit describes Lotus as "exclusive" (I think not) and mentions Jamais' $7000 membership fee.

Edited November 21, 2002 by cabrales (log)

[anil]

...... and mentions Jamais' $7000 membership fee. 

The person who I tagged along with, would not pay 7000 Turkish lira for five lifetimes, let alone ....

[NY News Team]

It used to be that to get into Lotus, you needed a few designer labels on your body and a slacker date of Euro origin on your arm, preferrably underaged, supported by a trust fund, and lots of attitude to spare. The trendy night spot, and sometimes restaurant, is among a handful of places in New York where on a cold rainy night you will still find a long line of people outside eager to get in. Fortunately, phenonmena like this only last a short time (usually 15 minutes), and now that the chic denizens have found a new place to go, Lotus has emerged with a much kindlier air. The restaurant is losing the attitude, the bouncer, and the velvet rope, and replacing it with a Southeast Asian menu and a new chef, Tyson Ophaso, formerly of Nong's on Park Ave South. The place may just be worth checking out afterall.----by Y. Yang

Lotus

409 West 14th Street

Phone: (212) 243-4420

Source: James Beard House event calendar

[anil]

............ a slacker date of Euro origin on your arm, preferrably underaged, supported by a trust fund, and lots of attitude to spare...........

And that has changed ? Nah !!! I'd recommend Son Cubano few doors up. Better food and little more umphff

[Bond Girl]

anil, you are beginning to sound as jaded as i am.