Diwan

[Damian]

We rely on Mughlai in that neighborhood for pretty reliable Indian takeout.

[Suvir Saran]

We rely on Mughlai in that neighborhood for pretty reliable Indian takeout.

Good choice Damian. When in the hood with friends, I am happy going there.

Did you know the same Indian owner owns the pasta place (Pappardella) across the street?

In fact a Sikh chef makes the pastas and speaks perfect Italian.

[stefanyb]

One eGulleter and five hangers-on were wildly fortunate in snagging a table for six, Saturday evening at Diwan.

To say we were treated royally would be an understatement. Our table was visited numerous times by various members of the staff including the Maitre d' and twice by the charming and talented Hemant Mathur, Diwan's incredible chef.

Some of our group, not being eGulleters , had not been exposed to high-end Indian cooking and were literally blown-away by what was served. Hemant came to our table and I reminded him of the dishes we had had at the banquet and what had impressed me most (a hard choice) and asked him to do something similar but with much less food. He served us bel poori, samosas, spinach-lentil cakes, wild boar chops, lamb chops, grilled shrimp, biryani rice (I don't remember the exact name) with a nan covering that had to be broken into like a pot-pie, shredded fried okra, all kinds of breads (fabulous), raita, and a few vegetable dishes, one with chick peas, all of which were perfectly spiced and wonderful. For desert a very caramelly kulfi.

We had three bottles of Peachy Canyon Zinfandel and stumbled out onto the sidewalk two and one-half hours later with giant smiles on our faces.

Thank you so much Hemant for your marvelous hospitality and thanks too to you, Suvir, for all of your help especially at this particular time.

[Suvir Saran]

Glad you had a nice time Stefany.

The Biryaani you ate was a Purdah Biryaani (curtained biryaani). It is superb as when you cut through the naan into the biryaani, a cloud of aromas comes onto your table. I have always loved it. Hemant does a great job with it.

Did he do small breads for you all? He does that when preparing tasting dinners. What kind of breads did he send out?

How were the boar chops, I have had great ones when they are there. He does not send them out unless the meat meets his approval.

Bhel Puri is a favorite of mine. It is great to start an Indian meal with.

Those spinach patties are soooo very tasty. It is not on the menu, I am sure they were made just for your table.

Did the Kulfi come with a citrus soup? I love that bitter citrus soup. One of my favorite combos, kulfi and bitter cold citrus soup. Is that what you had?

Diwan seems to get better with time. Actually I should say Hemant gets better with time. He is always learning and always applying that knowledge to what he does. He is a great chef with an amazing mind and a grand vision.

[Beachfan]

Ah, sounds so lovely. I have a dilema, should I go on a Sunday (Hemant not there, but I could have a leisurely meal) or on a Tuesday, pre theatre (Hemant there, but not leisurely).

I

Edited January 21, 2003 by Beachfan (log)

[Suzanne F]

Why not both?

(I have yet to return and get very jealous each time I read about those who have.)

[Suvir Saran]

Ah, sounds so lovely.  I have a dilema, should I go on  a Sunday (Hemant not there, but I could have a leisurely meal) or on a Tuesday, pre theatre (Hemant there, but not leisurely).

I

I would go on a Tuesday.. try and go as early as you can.. and enjoy it with Hemant preparing the food.

[stefanyb]

Did he do small breads for you all?  He does that when preparing tasting dinners.  What kind of breads did he send out?

How were the boar chops, I have had great ones when they are there.  He does not send them out unless the meat meets his approval.

Did the Kulfi come with a citrus soup?  I love that bitter citrus soup.  One of my favorite combos, kulfi and bitter cold citrus soup.  Is that what you had?

Diwan seems to get better with time.  Actually I should say Hemant gets better with time.  He is always learning and always applying that knowledge to what he does.  He is a great chef with an amazing mind and a grand vision.

Yes, yes, those small breads, oooh. One with onions another with, perhaps, spinach? It felt like having a private chef.

The boar chops were superb, prepared to just the right level of doneness and oh so juicy.

The kulfi was in a citrus soup, I loved how the bitter citrus played off the sweetness of the kulfi. A wonderful end to a stupendous meal.

Edited January 21, 2003 by stefanyb (log)

[stefanyb]

Oh, I just want to add that we each had a marinated, in yogurt and spices, tandooried shrimp that was perhaps four inches in diameter and succulent beyond description. Didn't want to forget that!

[Suvir Saran]

Oh, I just want to add that we each had a marinated, in yogurt and spices,  tandooried shrimp that was perhaps four inches in diameter and succulent beyond description.  Didn't want to forget that!

They are some of the best shrimp you will ever get in this country. Tiger shrimp. He cooks them just enough to be perfect... Not tough and chewy as many shrimp dishes can be at most restaurants. Hemant has a great way with meats, fish and the tandoor...

[Beachfan]

Oh, I just want to add that we each had a marinated, in yogurt and spices,  tandooried shrimp that was perhaps four inches in diameter and succulent beyond description.  Didn't want to forget that!

Perhaps 4" in length?

If it's 4" in diameter, then it's a lobster in shrimp's clothing.

[GC++]

stefanyb - great report , makes me counting the days (or hours) until my next NYC visit in mid Feb.

Awaiting going to Diwan myself.

G.

[Steve Plotnicki]

Suvir - You need to fly to London and have Tony Finch (really Faroe his wife) take you to New Tayeb so you can sample the mixed tandoori platter. The lamb chops are as we discussed. Not the marinade, but the cut. But you should try the meal anyway as I think you would enjoy it. Lots of biranyis afterwards and the food seems to be cooked in baltis. A plate of bitter gourd in a currry sauce was a standout. Also, while they use a tandoor, instead of putting the skewers vertically into the tandoor itself, they just lay them across the top like it was a grill. Can you expound on this method of tandoori?

[Suvir Saran]

Also, while they use a tandoor, instead of putting the skewers vertically into the tandoor itself, they just lay them across the top like it was a grill. Can you expound on this method of tandoori?

It is then not Tandoori in the traditional sense of the word Tandoori Cooking. But it is always great to try new things.

In India a tandoor is used to capture the heat inside it. Which is far greater than that over it. The shape of the tandoor was reached for that goal. But it is a clever thing to use the top as a grill. In fact most Indian restaurants that serve roastd Papadum cook them over a mesh placed on top of the tandoor.

Maa Kee Daal (creamy black beans) that are a hallmark of good North West Frontier cooking (region that gave us tandoori cooking) is traditionally cooked by placing the pot first overnight on the spent flames of the tandoor and then cooked for hours over the tandoor as you suggest.

I shall surely look forward to Tony Finch and Faroe taking me to any restaurant of their choice, my treat, granted they have the inclination. Thanks for sharing details of your meal.

[stefanyb]

Oh, I just want to add that we each had a marinated, in yogurt and spices,  tandooried shrimp that was perhaps four inches in diameter and succulent beyond description.  Didn't want to forget that!

Perhaps 4" in length?

If it's 4" in diameter, then it's a lobster in shrimp's clothing.

You know, when I wrote that I said to myself that someone was going to call me on it. What I meant was that when the little critters curl up on themselves the resulting circle had a diameter of about 4". Okay, okay, I must remember to be more exact. Me bad.

[Suvir Saran]

Me bad.

You very BAD.

[ajay]

From everything i've read (and tasted in one visit), it seems like chef hemant is very adept at meat preparations but how do members feel he handles vegetarian (but not vegan) dishes? Are these at the same level of excellence or are they merely average? Are there particular standouts in this area? In otherwords, Would four people (all of whom are well versed in indian cuisine with myself and one other from the subcontinent) be able to enjoy an excellent meal if they chose to confine themsleves to vegetarian choices?

I ask this question for two reasons:

(1)almost all indian restaurants serve mediocre samosas even when they excell at other things (sadly, i believe this is true of dakshin a pleasant indian bistro on ninth ave around 50th st.)

(2) as a person (somewhat) well versed in indian cuisine, I find it difficult to become excited over the idea of eating bhel poori as part of a meal. Unlike certain fried foods like samosa or vegetable cultets that might be integrated into an indian meal as a farsan, I don't believe bhel poori should be incorporated into a meal; rather it should be taken in as snack or as a light meal on in its own (usually in conjuction with sev poori and pani ppori).

Any thoughts and comments are much appreciated.

ps stefanyb, if you're comfortable discussing it, how much would a meal of the sort you describe set one back?

pps i still wish i could have made it to the dinner at diwan.

[Suvir Saran]

From everything i've read (and tasted in one visit), it seems like chef hemant is very adept at meat preparations but how do members feel he handles vegetarian (but not vegan) dishes?  Are these at the same level of excellence or are they merely average?  Are there particular standouts in this area?  In otherwords, Would four people (all of whom are well versed in indian cuisine with myself and one other from the subcontinent) be able to enjoy an excellent meal if they chose to confine themsleves to vegetarian choices?

I ask this question for two reasons:

(1)almost all indian restaurants serve mediocre samosas even when they excell at other things (sadly, i believe this is true of dakshin a pleasant indian bistro on ninth ave around 50th st.)

(2) as a person (somewhat) well versed in indian cuisine, I find it difficult to become excited over the idea of eating bhel poori as part of a meal.  Unlike certain fried foods like samosa or vegetable cultets that might be integrated into an indian meal as a farsan, I don't believe bhel poori should be incorporated into a meal; rather it should be taken in as snack or as a light meal on in its own (usually in conjuction with sev poori and pani ppori).

Any thoughts and comments are much appreciated.

ps stefanyb, if you're comfortable discussing it, how much would a meal of the sort you describe set one back?

pps i still wish i could have made it to the dinner at diwan.

Ajay, I am not sure how much Hemant charged Stefany, but the restaurant is going to be presenting their diners with a tasting menu with similar dishes and courses like what Stefany enjoyed the other night, and that menu will cost $50 just for the food. It was the same they charged us for the eGullet dinner.

It is an amazing amount of food and of GREAT quality for the money you pay. In fact many call it a bargain that that price. But that is what Hemant is all about, giving his customers the very best with the least fuss and drama.

If you want a vegetarian meal that is very special, you should call him, tell him I asked you to do so, and he would be more than willing to do a vegetarian tasting menu that would be of a great caliber. It is not hard for him to do, but it is not something he can do every day. Remember, he is one man, two hands and two eyes, the tandoor takes way too much of any mans energy, and this one man already is manning several fires.

But what you propose would be of interest to him, and a challenge he would be most willing to enjoy and work on.

As for Bhel, Hemant only shares a very small portion and it is served as an amuse bouche. It is sent out to tickle and liven the palate, not to fill the stomach.

[Suvir Saran]

Stefany, your friends and you have Hemant charmed and sooo happy. Not sure what you said, but something made him feel really good about cooking for you and your friends.

Hemant sheepishly mentioned to me that you were fact checking about my Okra recipe that Hemant had cooked for a party he catered for me many years ago... He was laughing as he recounted your conversation.. especially the part about my age coming into play... You are kind.... And so is he...

The Okra recipe was one I came up with as a teenager. IN fact I was most touched, alas, saddened, that my mother and my favorite cook (our own Panditji, my teacher, the chef at our home in Delhi) had both forgotten how to make it.. and so many years later, a month or so ago, they called me asking for its recipe.

I have loved cooking from the age of 5 or 6. And cooking has never been daunting to me. It is a joy.. and so things come easily and flow once I am in the kitchen. Hours can slip away without my ever realizing how much real time has gone by.

I am the same way when painting or singing... I need no break... when I used to paint with some sense of frequency, my mother would be most anxious for I could go for days without taking any break from my studio. That is how I was... Cooking does the same... it is my meditation and calling.. and wonderful things happen to me in the kitchen. And I am always happy sharing them with friends and family.

And yes the Okra was one such wonder that fell upon my mind as a young teenager in Delhi, helping Punditji cook the elaborate meal for a special banquet my parents were hosting. Hemant was shocked the first time I taught him this recipe, but after that, he has cooked it with me, for me and now on his own for years.

[llwb]

but the restaurant is going to be presenting their diners with a tasting menu with similar dishes and courses like what Stefany enjoyed the other night, and that menu will cost $50 just for the food.

Suvir, do you have any idea if this tasting menu will be implemented by February 7th?

TIA

llwb

[Suvir Saran]

but the restaurant is going to be presenting their diners with a tasting menu with similar dishes and courses like what Stefany enjoyed the other night, and that menu will cost $50 just for the food.

Suvir, do you have any idea if this tasting menu will be implemented by February 7th?

TIA

llwb

It should be. If not, you can call and speak with Chef Hemant Mathur and arrange this through him. That is what I and several other regulars do.

You can call him at the restaurant at 212-593-5425. Mention eGullet and our banquet or Stefany and he will know what to arrange for you. Hemant enjoys these special meals.

[llwb]

It should be.  If not, you can call and speak with Chef Hemant Mathur and arrange this through him.  That is what I and several other regulars do.

You can call him at the restaurant at 212-593-5425.  Mention eGullet and our banquet or Stefany and he will know what to arrange for you. Hemant enjoys these special meals.

Thank you Suvir. I did just call and the tasting menu will be on as of this Saturday. I did not have the guts to ask to speak with the Chef - but my call was transferred to the Manager and he seemed to know what I was talking about. Nothing specific was said on my part (I am not a telephone person) or on his about the nature of this tasting menu, so I am just going to hope we will get to taste at least some of the things I have been reading about. Is an email to Diwan a possibility for purposes of clarification? Please ignore if inapporopriate. llwb

[Suvir Saran]

It should be.  If not, you can call and speak with Chef Hemant Mathur and arrange this through him.  That is what I and several other regulars do.

You can call him at the restaurant at 212-593-5425.  Mention eGullet and our banquet or Stefany and he will know what to arrange for you. Hemant enjoys these special meals.

Thank you Suvir. I did just call and the tasting menu will be on as of this Saturday. I did not have the guts to ask to speak with the Chef - but my call was transferred to the Manager and he seemed to know what I was talking about. Nothing specific was said on my part (I am not a telephone person) or on his about the nature of this tasting menu, so I am just going to hope we will get to taste at least some of the things I have been reading about. Is an email to Diwan a possibility for purposes of clarification? Please ignore if inapporopriate. llwb

llwb, please muster up the courage and speak with Hemant Mathur. That will ensure you have a meal of a lifetime.

Mention my name and that I encouraged you to do this. He will be very happy to hear from you.

Enjoy your meal there.

Suvir

[Suzanne F]

Last night, not one but TWO groups of eGulleteers plus friends dined at Diwan -- it seems to be turning into one of our clubhouses, and they don't even serve the Flaming Orange Gully!

Our group consisted of 3 who had been there before and 2 who had not. We tried some favorites and some new (to us) dishes. As always, everything was splendid. The quail appetizer was the hands-down favorite: tender, complexly flavored. The mushrooms, which were new to all, were fabulous: just regular big white mushrooms (unless they were cremini?), but between the marinade and the hint of smokiness, unlike any other mushrooms. Cakewalk was 100% right in praising them. We also had the beggars' purse, but I think having to cut it into thin pieces (one order is not really enough for 5 people) lessened the effect. Since they were out of the crab paratha, we tried the keema-stuffed bread ("Indian quesadilla?") instead. It was good, but not in a class with the quail and mushrooms.

Entrées were the lamb chops, halibut, chicken with ginger, vegetable keema, and giant prawns. Lamb, fish, and prawns were big winners; and we all marvelled at how moist and tender the chicken was. Veg keema got a bit lost. Lemon rice was outstanding: subtly flavored with great texture contrasts (love those crunchy lentils in it!). The one dish I had building up for weeks to the 2 newbies -- the crispy okra -- was as good as ever, but paled in comparison to the other items.

Desserts were: pineapple sorbet (served in 1/2 pineapple shell -- looked suspiciously like something from Bindi ); rice pudding; rosmalai; and kulfi. Just to let everyone know: they have changed the kulfi, and no longer serve it with Suvir's citrus sauce. The change in the kulfi is for the better, we agreed: smoother, creamier, not so icy, and the flavor is also subtle and not too sweet. Still, I missed that refreshing sauce. The rice pudding was very loose, and had a strong flavor of roasted nuts -- again, not very sweet, a pleasant change from most Indian sweets.

For wine, we had J Russian River Valley Pinot Gris 2001. It went beautifully with the food, and even the non-drinker among us enjoyed a glass of it. The brandy we were given after dinner was very light and easy to drink; unfortunately, we didn't ask what it was.

The staff was gracious as always. Even as we stayed on and on, talking -- the last to leave, long after Chef Hemant and the rest of the kitchen staff. He had stopped by our table during the meal, and fairly glowed as we complimented his food. He IS a master of the tandoor!

Okay, so NEXT time I want to try more of the vegetable dishes, and have the tandoori paneer. And and and and ...

[tommy]

The brandy we were given after dinner was very light and easy to drink; unfortunately, we didn't ask what it was.

if i'm not mistaken, they generally pour remy martin VSOP.