L'Absinthe

[markk]

I challenged two people whose opinions on food I respect highly to point me to some outstanding French "bistro" (i.e. traditional, old-fashioned) food, and at the top of both lists was "L'Absinthe" on East 67th Street, and since the timing worked out (we walked out mid-performance of a Broadway show where we got a not-very-good understudy in the lead role, and opted instead to get to the East Side in time to try this place).

This is a beautiful recreation of a classic turn-of-the-century Parisian bistro:

Starters were a portion each of a most outstanding Sauteed Foie Gras:

(And I must point out that this superb foie-gras preparation was actually less expensive than the utterly disgusting and inedible version that we walked-out on a few nights earlier at La Luncheonette !! - I won't ugly-up this thread with the disgusting photo of what was served there, but it's at that link.)

Back at L'Absinthe now, we snuck-in to the traditional two-course structure a shared "Alsacienne Pizzette", the chef's takeoff on a Tarte Flambee, a thin-crusted flatbread pizza with the bacon and onion that would be traditional on a Tarte Flambee, with the addition of Munster cheese and fresh thyme, and it was delicious:

My partner opted for something less rich as a main course, the traditional "Moules Marinieres", an extremely excellent rendition of mussels steamed with white wine (which unfortunately arrived without the "Frites" due to a service mis-hap):

I threw caution and sensibility to the wind and ordered the dish called "Pieds de Pord Farcis au Foie Gras, et Pommes, Reduction au Cidre" (Pigs trotters with foie gras, and Apple Cider Reduction) which was magnificent:

This was the deliciously gooey and gummy meat picked from a pig's foot, mixed with some foie gras, and stuffed inside a casing (in theory, the pig's trotter casing itself). In retrospect, I wish I had taken a photo of one of the slices cut open so that we could see the shredded meat. It was a most outstanding culinary treat:

Dessert was a very nice apple "Tarte Fine" that needed to be a little crispier, but was nonetheless very nice:

All in all, an outstanding old-fashioned French meal, and just what we were craving!

Edited November 15, 2008 by markk (log)

[Fat Guy]

I've had some truly fantastic food at L'Absinthe. Jean-Michel Bergougnoux is one of these guys whose name gets zero play, yet he's as talented as the best French chefs in town. Bergougnoux holds the prestigious title of Maître Cuisinier de France and worked in many of New York’s best old-line French kitchens (Le Régence, Lutèce, Le Cygne) before opening L’Absinthe.

Last year I was invited in for (free) dinner by the chef and had two of the better dishes I tried all year: free-range poached chicken in black truffle broth with baby vegetables, and the venison-and-foie gras stew, covered in a pastry crust -- a deeply satisfying plate of food.

Bergougnoux has a firm command of the classics and dishes in the classical style, but he is also conversant with contemporary trends and switches effortlessly between old and new. So at the same meal where I had that venison-and-foie thing, I had a bass carpaccio appetizer that would have felt right at home in a contemporary French/New-American place.

Ditto for this lobster arrangement.

Also on the classic front, wonderful saucisson:

Desserts and service are not the restaurant's strengths, in my experience. It's about the savory food.

Last time I looked at L'Absinthe I thought it was a tad pricey. I think I'm retreating from that opinion. I'm not sure if the menu has been priced downward a little or if L'Absinthe has held the line while others have raised their prices, but looking at the website today it all seems pretty reasonable compared to other restaurants in the semi-fine-dining bistro category.

[markk]

I'm not sure if the menu has been priced downward a little or if L'Absinthe has held the line while others have raised their prices, but looking at the website today it all seems pretty reasonable compared to other restaurants in the semi-fine-dining bistro category.

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I'm not sure how to phrase this so that it's overwhelmingly clear that I'm not trying to pick a fight with you, but are you saying that "bistro" dining is (or can be) "semi-fine" but not "fine" dining?

Sure, I know what delineates "fine-dining", though the lines blur more and more these days, but technically anyway I think that while the place is certainly made to look like a bistro, the presence of things like sauteed foie gras (instead of a terrine), and truffles, and the quality of the food itself, may (I haven't eaten there enough yet) qualify as more than "semi-fine", based of course not on the trappings, but the quality of what's on the plate. And surely it isn't beyond Daniel to serve something like pig's feet with foie gras. So I was just wondering if you're saying that it's "bistro" food that can't rise above "semi-fine", or if you know of better bistro places serving "fine dining" food in the not-traditionally "fine-dining" trappings? (I wasn't looking to get into the "what makes fine dining" debate, I was asking from purely a "culinary quality" point of view.)

[Fat Guy]

I was just talking about the trappings, not the food. The food is as good as can be, but the trappings make the place not a fine-dining restaurant. It's in the next circle out from that.

[markk]

I like being pampered and all that, but I think ultimately my feeling is that you can't eat "trappings". I've had some disappointing meals in some highly acclaimed three star places in France (and elsewhere), and some spectacularly, decadently superb meals in places in places less "fancy", and I think that when you boil it down, I care more about what goes in my mouth than what my table is set with. But then again, I have some pretty strange (and antiquated) preferences when it comes to food.

I am very thankful that this place was suggested to me! I had never even heard of it before. And L'Absinthe's menu has my name written ALL over it!

[Vinotas]

I haven't been to l'Absinthe in many years, and last time I was somewhat disappointed, both with the food and the prices. However, this is the 3rd time I hear that they've upped the quality lately. I might have to pop in, especially as it is right in my neighborhood.

Thanks for the heads-up!

Cheers!

[Fat Guy]

I like being pampered and all that, but I think ultimately my feeling is that you can't eat "trappings". 

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Nonetheless, I would not call L'Absinthe a fine-dining restaurant, just as I would -- to use a more stark example -- not call Momofuku Ssam Bar a fine-dining restaurant despite it serving outstanding food. L'Absinthe is an upscale bistro, like Benoit et al.

[markk]

I like being pampered and all that, but I think ultimately my feeling is that you can't eat "trappings". 

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Nonetheless, I would not call L'Absinthe a fine-dining restaurant, just as I would -- to use a more stark example -- not call Momofuku Ssam Bar a fine-dining restaurant despite it serving outstanding food. L'Absinthe is an upscale bistro, like Benoit et al.

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I get the point, and I'm very familiar with all the discussions/debates about what constitutes a "fine-dining" establishment.

Luckily, two people I know who happen to know my particular taste in food - "traditional" French food in particular - suggested this place to me, and however you want to modify the word "fine" in relation to it, I am so, so grateful to them for the tip.

(When I was in college in upstate New York, there was a local restaurant whose newspaper ad stated quite clearly that they offered:

" 'Gourmet' and 'Semi-Gourmet' Cuisine "

I made a point of saving it. 35 years later, I still think I have it somewhere.)

But getting back to L'Absinthe, I already have more reservations booked so that I can do a thorough exploration of their menu in the weeks and months ahead. Thanks for posting the info on Jean-Michel Bergougnoux, FG!

[TarteTatin]

Merde. I was hoping to keep this place our little secret!

We've been going to L'absinthe for years. Just love it.

Can't beat their plateau in the summer. Split one of those with some frites and pretend you are in France!

Wow, that Tarte Flambee looks marvelous! Can't wait.

[Fat Guy]

I was recently invited in for a press preview of a new offering at L'Absinthe: the l'heure verte ("green hour") absinthe tasting.

Absinthe has been rising in prominence since its re-legalization a few years ago. As the restaurant's name should and does imply, L'Absinthe currently has the most comprehensive absinthe selection in the city. You can always get absinthe there, however on Thursdays at 9pm they are offering a great deal on a tasting of four absinthes, served in traditional fountain style, plus a great collection of amuses designed to complement the absinthe's flavors. It's $35.

Greg, the restaurant's absinthe expert, joined me for the tasting and there's no way I can possibly do justice to all the information he downloaded to me. I'll note a few observations here, but by far the coolest aspect of the absinthe tasting is the fountain service. What is fountain service, you ask? I'm glad you asked. This is an absinthe fountain:

It's one of the most dramatic culinary presentations I've ever witnessed. The absinthe itself comes out in glasses, each topped with a strainer and a sugar cube. The fountain is filled with ice water. The taps on the fountain are opened just enough so that the water drips, as in Chinese water torture, onto the sugar cubes slowly dissolving them. When the ratio of water to absinthe is 4:1 you shut off the valve and drink. When one of these things comes out to your table you can be sure that everybody will ask what the heck it is. The people at the table next to us were so intrigued by it that they wound up ordering a round of absinthe themselves. Another nearby table was inspired to order it as well.

The four absinthes we tasted were:

La Fee Absinthe Parisienne. This was by far my least favorite, with a one-dimensional, mass-produced flavor. It was absinthe, no doubt, but it was not a terribly interesting beverage.

Lucid Absinthe Superieure. A big step up, with a robust anise and wormwood flavor, though still rather one-note.

La Clandestine. This I thought was excellent. It was the first absinthe I've tasted where I've said, "Now I get why people are into absinthe." In addition to the anise and wormwood flavors, there were many interesting botanical overtones -- as in a good gin. A complex absinthe with a lot of structure.

St. George Absinthe Verte. This was probably my favorite of the evening, though not so much as an absinthe but in a more abstract sense. It had a ton of unusual flavors and a long, long finish. I'm not even sure I'd call it absinthe if someone just gave me a glass of it. It's more of an absinthe-like beverage made from brandy, star anise, wormwood, mint, lemon balm, tarragon and a bunch of other stuff.

The amuses accompanying the tasting were great: fritters of cod brandade, pistachio-and-black-truffle house-made sausage, glazed chicken "lollipops" and a tartlet of pesto aioli. Needless to say, the chef has decided (and I agree) that garlic is the thing with absinthe. Also included in the amuse selection are crostini of spinach and quail eggs, but we didn't have them -- the chef swapped in some head cheese.

Drinking absinthe at L'Absinthe is one of those peak food-and-beverage experiences that's worth seeking out. I would suggest calling ahead for reservations and the latest information, though. I'm not sure the 9pm Thursday thing is set in stone.

[Chris Amirault]

What's the protein in the sausage?

[Fat Guy]

Pork, baby.

At least I think so. I'll double check.

[DutchMuse]

I absolutely love this place, and don't know why it isn't higher on the culinary landscape visibility. Back when I lived near, and worked at (then) New York Hospital, it was my 'go to' place for dinner. It really is quite special in its own way.

[MaxH]

... This [course] was the deliciously gooey and gummy meat picked from a pig's foot, mixed with some foie gras, and stuffed inside a casing (in theory, the pig's trotter casing itself).  In retrospect, I wish I had taken a photo of one of the slices cut open so that we could see the shredded meat.  It was a most outstanding culinary treat ...

Yes, and I'm reflecting from having it in California, years ago. Wonder where it originated?

Apropos "bistro," per later postings: If you're familiar with its origin, this word labeled what you could call France's original "fast" food restaurants (according to books from France 50-plus years ago; I don't know what online or current pop-culture sources say) but came to be used more widely there and in Europe, sometimes for high-end places. Like many other food words (corn, entrée, Porterhouse steak, beignet), "bistro" may have evolved distinct or even conflicting usage in the US.

[TarteTatin]

Dinner on Monday night, June 1st, 2009.

He had a fountain for his absinthe, very soigne (sp?). I had a half bottle of Willm Pinot Gris as my aperitif, and we split the rest for the appetizers.

My foie gras was small and tasteless and overcooked. Barely a hint of medium..while I ate, it cooked itself medium well. I like my foie rare...

His vegetarian watercress soup was good. The bread was delicous and very crusty. Service was good.

My quenelles were wonderfully old fashioned with a tasty vinegary aftertaste nantua (I believe?) sauce. The lobster bits that came with it were definitely overcooked and tough with no taste.

I decided that once every few years is enough for me for quenelles, and its most likely the similarity of perfect matzah balls flavored with lobster/shrimp that makes me order it once in awhile. The consistency is just strange, but probably right on for what it should be. These were very light. There were three of them.

He had the pied de porc. It was explained that it was deboned, stuffed with chicken and foie gras.

Neither of us tasted any foie. I thought it was interesting, but not nearly as good/real- as when we've had true pigs trotters in France.

I'm wondering if they make this dish (pigs feet) and the overdone foie gras for an "American" audience, who prefers a Disneyland version of these classic dishes, rather than the real thing??

That's an interesting theme for a new topic, do we think other area dishes (besides Asian) are Americanized very often?

We had a side of good frites and a bottle of Viognier for $40, one of the most inexpensive bottles on the menu.

Then we split a dessert of the beignets with Pastis or Anise? The beignets were very very greasy, like they need to change their oil. The chocolate was cold inside the dough. The anise flavor worked very well with the beignets.

We had a good espresso and some nice chocolates after.

I still think that at $250 (including tip), that this is a rather expensive bistro, not sure the execution of the dishes warranted the price....

[markk]

I just discovered that I have posted photos of the foods you mention, above.

I've had the sauteed foie gras there twice, and it wasn't overcooked. It wasn't a particularly generous portion, and was even less generous the second time, but it wasn't overcooked either time, so I think that you just got a bad cook.

I was told that the trotter was stuffed with the meat of the foot, and mine had that gooey, gummy consistency and taste to it. I can't remember now whether or not there was the taste of foie gras, but I remember liking it, and thinking that it was a treat to get something like that, which you don't find often. I think that you got them on a bad night.

I don't think that French food gets "Americanized" nearly to the extend that Asian food does. I mean, I'm sure that there are places that do Americanize the food - though they're not places that I would go to. But I've never thought that any of the French places in NYC are Americanizing their food. I've though that it's not usually as good as you can get in France, and perhaps they omit some of the more shall we say "interesting" dishes, but I don't think that your disappointing experience at L'Absinthe was a case of "Americanization" - I think you got them on an off night.

We drink the Willm Pinot Gris there as well. I think that they get points for having this. I think that as a rule, Alsace wines are sorely under-represented in French restaurants here, and while I do know of some places that have nice Pinot Blancs by the bottle, I think it's rare to find a place with any Pinot Gris, which is a shame, because it's such an elegant and food-friendly wine.

Sorry to hear about your disappointing dinner. I don't know if the place is that sensational that I would tell you to try it again, but I have enjoyed the two meals that I've had there - I guess I lucked out.