El Balconcito

[philadining]

I could have sworn there was already a thread about this place... but I can't find one.

A few of us eG folks finally managed to get coordinated enough to call-ahead and order some Pollo a la Brasa (Peruvian Rotisserie Chicken.) The thought of pre-planning one's chicken consumption always feels a little weird to me, but it was totally worth it.

This chicken uses a complex marinade that gives a great flavor and a crispy, herby skin. The marinade seems to involve chile paste, the Peruvian herb huacatay, and citrus. You have to order ahead, because it marinates for several hours, yielding both a delicious outer coating, and juicy, tender meat.

And what's more, fries even Holly could love!

We got lots more food: the charming thing about this place is that they have both Peruvian and Portuguese food. We partook of Croquettas de Bacalao, Chorizo and Clams from the Portuguese side.

And we got the roasted chicken, ceviche, and Lomo Saltado from the Peruvian side.

They also have tostones filled with seafood, which reputedly were inspired by their Dominican customers...

It was all really good, I'd get any of it again. But that chicken... oh my... that's really something.

Sorry, the eG image posting thing is really getting on my nerves today for some reason... More pics and comments on my blog>>

Major thanks to Katie and Pedro for Spanglophonics, and to Dave for getting this search started in the first place!

[docsconz]

Portuguese-Peruvian? That is an odd combo as Peru was colonized by the Spaniards and not the Portuguese. It strikes me that all of those dishes labeled under Portuguese could also be considered Spanish.

[philadining]

Yeah, there's no particular logic to it, other than the fact that they have a Peruvian Chef and a Portuguese chef. That's it, no cultural fusion, no obscure culinary connections. That said, the food all tastes pretty good together!

Philly also has a Cuban-Columbian restaurant (Tierra Columbiana) that came up with the combination in the same way: they happen to have two chefs from two backgrounds and they take advantage of both!

Edited August 22, 2008 by philadining (log)

[docsconz]

Yeah, there's no particular logic to it, other than the fact that they have a Peruvian Chef and a Portuguese chef.  That's it, no cultural fusion, no obscure culinary connections.  That said, the food all tastes pretty good together!

Philly also has a Cuban-Columbian restaurant (Tierra Columbiana) that came up with the combination in the same way: they happen to have two chefs from two backgrounds and they take advantage of both!

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If it works, why not? The reality is that Peruvian cooking is already a multicultural fusion so there is room for more.

[KatieLoeb]

That chicken is even better than it looks. Even cold leftovers for lunch the next day remained incredibly moist and delicious. My coworker that I shared with was totally down for the next Porturuvian chicken run. The frites don't fare quite as well on the second day, but aren't awful reheated in foil in the oven for a couple of minutes. But the chicken is the holy grail of rotisseried birds. They must be brining in addtion to that flavorful rub, because the meat is just too moist for any other explanation.

[Capaneus]

Portuguese-Peruvian? That is an odd combo as Peru was colonized by the Spaniards and not the Portuguese. It strikes me that all of those dishes labeled under Portuguese could also be considered Spanish.

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I respectfully disagree, Doc: Phil doesn't go into the details, so there's no way you'd know, but the clams came in the form of what we Portuguese know as Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato (in a white wine, garlic and cilantro sauce), and were also featured in Carne de Porco a Alentejana. Both are popular favorites in Portugal, and I've encountered neither in Spain, although that may have changed in the decades since I was in a position to know.

And not only were they accurately rendered, but they were good. The only thing on the Portuguese side I was less than thrilled with was the chourico, which was mealy, undercured and oddly seasoned, almost suggesting some sort of hybrid with the Mexican variety. But that was a problem of sourcing, not execution. And my sense of its inauthenticity definitely hindered me in enjoying it. In retrospect, it seems to me that it wasn't bad, if taken on its own terms.

The Croquetes de Bacalhau were also very good: at home I would expect them to be denser and have a higher fish content, but they were lighter and fluffier than anything to be found in Lisbon - a good thing - and very tasty in their own right.

The Peruvian side was less consistent, I thought: that chicken was really really good, maybe my favorite dish of the evening, which is saying something, cause the home side included two childhood favorites done well. I have no idea what was in that marinade, but it had a dark, earthy note that was unusual in a delicious way.

The Lomo Salt(e?)ado was also excellent.

On the minus side, I was fond but not delighted by the Ceviche, which erred by letting the fish be overwhelmed by the acid; and I thought the Tostones were the weakest dish of the night, smothered in some sort of nondescript tomato-based sauce that failed either to to thrill in its own right or to do much for the not-terribly-assertive seafood.

Still, even they were not at all bad, just not that great, which made them the weak link in an excellent menu.

And I found that following Gary's advice to warm the doggie-bagged fries, naked, under the broiler, for a couple of minutes, crisped them very nicely. I think the foil may have been a hindrance, Katie.

The same treatment also worked pretty well on the chicken.

[KatieLoeb]

And I found that following Gary's advice to warm the doggie-bagged fries, naked, under the broiler, for a couple of minutes, crisped them very nicely. I think the foil may have been a hindrance, Katie.

Fair enough. I'll try that next time.

The same treatment also worked pretty well on the chicken.

I purposely didn't reheat the chicken, for fear of drying it out. It was the best leftover cold chicken gnawed off the bone, ever.

Still trying to figure out what's in that marinade. My sensitive palate usually allows me to be pretty good at deconstructing these things. I'm definitely feeling light brown sugar, an acid (either a mild vinegar or lemon juice), salt, pepper, garlic, paprika or ground chile, and that crazy herb Philadining mentioned, that I believe gives it that earthiness. Although I'd have never known that if he hadn't told me. The rest? Still sussing that out...

Edited August 23, 2008 by KatieLoeb (log)

[Andrew Fenton]

That looks just amazingly good! Clams and chicken, together at last; I'll have to check it out...

[Capaneus]

That looks just amazingly good!  Clams and chicken, together at last; I'll have to check it out...

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Well... the actual unholy consortium is between the clam and the pig. The chicken is more in the nature of an innocent - yet delicious - bystander.

[Andrew Fenton]

Yes, indeed: the chicken is left sadly watching the party, as the clams and sausage pal it up in all their treyfaliciousness...

[KatieLoeb]

Enjoyed the Pollo a la Brasa again this evening at El Balconcito. Chicken is just the Holy freakin' Grail of amazingly moist and flavorful bird. My niece and nephew have both declared it their favorite. We also tried the mixed ceviche, which was spot on, and the grilled lobster, which was tasty but a hair overdone and dried out. Next time I want to try the beef ribs I spied on the menu. I have a feeling those might be pretty good too...

I certainly hope the menu at Chifa will have a rendition of Pollo a la Brasa. I can only imagine how delicious that would be.

[HD73]

Enjoyed the Pollo a la Brasa again this evening at El Balconcito.  Chicken is just the Holy freakin' Grail of amazingly moist and flavorful bird.  My niece and nephew have both declared it their favorite.  We also tried the mixed ceviche, which was spot on, and the grilled lobster, which was tasty but a hair overdone and dried out.  Next time I want to try the beef ribs I spied on the menu.  I have a feeling those might be pretty good too...

I certainly hope the menu at Chifa will have a rendition of Pollo a la Brasa.  I can only imagine how delicious that would be.

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Do you still have to call ahead for the chicken? I think I remember hearing that they have a bar, is that right?

[philadining]

Do you still have to call ahead for the chicken?  I think I remember hearing that they have a bar, is that right?

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Yes and Yes

[Tim Dolan]

AM I the only one who looks at this topic and sees "El Baconito"? What a name...

[KatieLoeb]

Do you still have to call ahead for the chicken?  I think I remember hearing that they have a bar, is that right?

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I called over the weekend and insisted that they save me two chickens for Tuesday. They said to call the same day, but given my schedule, I was afeared that I wouldn't wake up early enough to snag the exalted birds. They were nice about it when I explained that I wouldn't be able to call that day.

The bar is a small six seater in the back of the restaurant with the TV playing Spanish news channel or telenovelas. Be careful when ordering at the bar. I asked for a Bacardi Limon and Diet Coke and ended up with a full tumbler glass of rum on the rocks and a can of soda with a tall glass of ice on the side. They charged me $9 for it, but it ended up being the equivalent of two normal drinks once I combined them. The waitress looked at me like I had three heads when I made my own cocktail out of it.

[Holly Moore]

Do they offer this chicken for take-out?

[KatieLoeb]

When I first arrived and was awaiting my dining companions at the bar, drinking my self-made enormous cocktail, there was a fellow a couple of seats down, nursing a beer. Eventually two bags of boxed up and bagged food came out of the kitchen for him. He thanked the staff and left. I don't know what he ordered, but they definitely have to-go containers in the house both for doggie bagging it and to go orders. I'm pretty confident you could have the chicken to go if you asked nicely...