TN: Flip side

[Florida Jim]

1999 Thomas, Pinot Noir:

This has needed every bit of the 9 years since vintage to resolve itself; now a translucent ruby with clearing edges; light cherry and underbrush aromas; a lovely, round, perfectly balanced delivery with cherry and earth flavors and good length. Charming wine but not without substance.

A glass on day three (wine recorked and left on counter) is even more complex and shows no signs of deterioration. So unlike the following wine it is hard to believe the same grape was involved.

(I must admit to a soft spot for the wines from John Thomas. Years ago, I met with John, walked his vineyard with him, talked to him about his farming, the philosophy behind his wines and winemaking, and, sat with him in his barrel room and tasted through several vintages. I had followed his wines since first bottling and have several vintages in my cellar. And I have learned from others in the area just how devoted he is to his chosen career.

His wines are not for everyone; often in their youth they display a gunpowder aroma that can be off-putting. They also take awhile to come together and show well. Better still, they are not the same every year, although they always carry the stamp of John’s vineyard and techniques, one can taste the vintage in them.

Personally, they are representative of what is best and most alluring about Oregon pinot noir and this bottle lives up to that notion.)

2006 Raptor Ridge, Pinot Noir Reserve:

If one enjoys Everclear-laced, sugar-infused, over-ripe pinot noir, this is the bottle for you. Volatile alcohol in the nose, burning in the mouth, candied fruit, and burning in the throat. Unbalanced, unpleasant and such a departure from past efforts as to be all but unrecognizable. Slightly better with food and after one has had a glass already (I assume I could get used to drinking straight gin at some point . . .) but not a bottle I would ever buy or recommend. Not for me.

(What the hell happened here? These guys made really pretty pinots from Murto and other vineyards; wines that could be enjoyed with food and didn’t mimic mixed drinks. But here is a wine that has to fit somebody’s business model of what sells and, if this is what sells, then I am very disappointed, although I suppose, not shocked. To me, 180 degrees from the previous wine and in no way representative of fine Oregon pinot (or fine pinot from anywhere.)

Best, Jim