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The reopening of Schwa?


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Just returned from dinner at Schwa. 9 course tasting menu (became 11 with addition of comped quail-egg ravioli and 2nd dessert) was $110. The price is a steal, but I guess the difficulty of getting a reservation adds to the cost for some. Personally, I nearly gave up trying after about a month of calling, then all of a sudden they started answering the phone. The last three times I've called, I've spoken to a live human being by the third ring. I left the menu in the car, so I'll post an update tomorrow, but wanted to say that it is certainly worth every effort to get in. The signature dishes such as the Chimay beer cheese soup and the quail egg ravioli are as good as everyone says, simply phenomenal. Some of the other highlights were the cauliflower tortellini in cocoa nib consommé and the red bean ice cream cornet with Violet Hour bacon bitters. Service was remarkably efficient and overwhelmingly friendly and inviting. In certain other forums, I've read negative posts about attitude and atmosphere, absolutely none of which rang true on this visit. The chefs were warm and gracious hosts.

Edited by KD1191 (log)

True rye and true bourbon wake delight like any great wine...dignify man as possessing a palate that responds to them and ennoble his soul as shimmering with the response.

DeVoto, The Hour

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A day late, and probably now several recollections short, but here is the menu we had on Wednesday. Bold lines are the course descriptions from the printed menu I still have, subsequent info is to the best of my memory:

Amuse

Bubble Tea with Hendrick Gin Flavors. Tapioca balls soaked in gin and rosewater, cucumber juice, juniper cream & coriander ice.

Crab - Pine, Mushroom, Plantain

Pine/Juniper and banana purées, crispy plantain wheels and strips of king trumpet mushroom adorning small piles of peekytoe crab. A reduction of BLiS Elixer dotted the plate. Reducing > $25/oz vinegar is not likely a profit maker, but it is darn tasty.

Pea Soup - Menthol Crystal, Meyer Lemon

Can't tell you anything about that, as we received instead Chimay Beer Cheese Soup with Pretzel Gougère, Mustard Skin and Dill Emulsion. I would love a gallon of this.

Tortelloni - Cauliflower, Coco Nibs, Curry

Two flawless tortelloni filled with cauliflower puree and bathed in coco nib consommé. What I believe was a smear of taleggio sat at the bottle of the bowl and coco nib brittle and a sprinkle of Parmesan completed the plate.

After this course an off-menu course appeared, a gift from the chefs, their well known Quail Egg Ravioli with Reggiano, truffle and oh so much butter.

Maki - Green Curry, Root beer

What a strange little plate. A maki roll with green curry flavored rice and hoja santa in place of nori, sprinkled with both dried and fresh tobiko. Pickled carrot imitated the traditional ginger somewhat in appearance and intense flavor (the curry with which it had been infused). Root beer soy sauce completed the sushi portion of the plate, but the best thing was probably the miniature mug of housemade root beer. The contrasting flavor and texture of the two tobikos was also quite interesting.

Tiger Fish - Watermelon, Red Pepper

A finger of white fish, which I believe is also known as Pintado, sitting atop a bed of plump watermelon and red pepper couscous with crunchy black quinoa, pickled watermelon garnish. A smear of red pepper "blood" was painted across the bowl. The fish here was upstaged by the brilliant couscous/quinoa.

Sweetbreads - Corn, Patron, Cilantro

Small pieces of candied sweetbreads strewn about corn and Patron tequila gelées, roasted corn kernels, popcorn and micro cilantro. Probably my favorite sweetbreads of all time, but that isn't really saying too much. The popcorn actually made sense here.

Pork - Zucchini, Garlic, Borage

Sous-vide pata negra collar, various zucchini, black garlic and white anchovy purees, edible flower and crunchy garlic chips. Everything about this dish was phenomenal, with the exception of the anchovy. It was very powerful and 25% of the volume used would have sufficed for me. Thankfully, the way the dish was presented, I wasn't forced to eat the anchovy.

Cheese

Taleggio coddled with egg, sprinkled with dehydrated honey. Delicious.

Dessert

Rhubarb soup with rhubarb pieces, black pepper ice cream with cold-pressed foie gras...perhaps some galangal? I didn't taste the foie, but the black pepper spice was nice.

Finally, another off-menu gift from the kitchen, 2nd Dessert was a cornet with red bean ice cream, topped with Violet Hour Bacon Bitters.

True rye and true bourbon wake delight like any great wine...dignify man as possessing a palate that responds to them and ennoble his soul as shimmering with the response.

DeVoto, The Hour

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