Atelier

[Wilfrid]

You have got the essential point, Jin. And we didn't even have the bread soup.

[Jinmyo]

This does sound like a series of robust dishes but not without delicacy. Somehow, it seems different from what I have gleaned from reading of New York C fare with many elements I find to be interesting in sequencing of texture and composition. The salad of sea bass, caviar, cockles and asparagus preceding the crawfish pie; the white fish with blood orange before the cod, chorizo and beans, followed by the squab pie. But then it might just be the pies.

edit:

Wait. This just in.

Yes. It's the pies.

Edited April 7, 2003 by Jinmyo (log)

[Ron Johnson]

Having been out of the office for over a week, I am swamped. However, I do intend to post the wines that were paired with each course and offer my opinions on this meal (good). Only one mistep on the wines.

[Ron Johnson]

I finally found my notes listing the wines that we had paired with our tasting menu at Atelier from a couple weeks ago. Alas, it was returned with my dry-cleaning. They were:

Gruner Veltliner "Zwerithaler" Prager, Wachau 2001: I really dig Gruners and this one was quite nice with a shot of acidity straightforward brightness and a bracing finish. Nice wine and paired very well with the praline of quail and foie gras with truffle gelee and fines herbs salad. Sommelier score A.

Sancerre "Les Monts Damnes" Francois Cotat, Loire 2001: Another score. Mineral and crisp, refreshing and a nice match with the salad of sea bass, asparagus, cockles and caviar. Sommelier score A.

Rully "La Chaume" Jacques Dury, Cote Chalonnaise 2001: Interesting choice as I stated that one of my parameters was no chardonnay. However, this wine had clearly seen no oak and the effect of the malolactic, if any, was minimal thereby saving me from the oak bomb butterscotch candy that I hate. Actually the wine was a bit of a surprise and really was called for given the accompanying dish of crawfish, porcini, and morels in lavish butter enriched sauce served en croute. Sommelier score A-.

Barbera/Refosco "Verbaiea" Gatti Pierro, Piedmonte 2000: A really neat little wine and a shrewd choice to pair with a fish dish, in this case the previously maligned "spa" trio of John Dory, baby leeks, and blood orange sauce. I skipped the dish after one bite, but savored the wine. Sommelier score A.

Corton Pougets, Louis Jadot, 1994: 1994 catches a lot of shit in Burgundy, and I had my doubts when this was brought to the table, but I admit that curiosity more than anything prompted a nod. A tidy burgundy showing surprising firmness and strength to balance what it lacks in finesse. Pinot Noir is different in burgundy and this wine showed it. It was a nice compliment to a fine dish of cod, sliced portuguese sausage, and white beans. Sommelier score B+.

Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 1997. Cha-ching. What a wine. Still short of peaking, but showing beautiful notes of berry fruit and spice framed in well-behaved tannins, and the signature acidity of sangiovese. Oddly paired, however, with lobster in a reduction of lobster stock. Sommelier score B+.

Craneford Shiraz Barossa 2001. This left me flabbergasted and I damn near sent it back. My most specific request to the sommelier was "old world" wines, no fruit bombs. I was willing to over look the chardonnay, but this was downright insurrection. All in all a fine and technically correct wine, but what a shame to be paired with grand finale of the main courses: the squab and foie gras croustillante. This was a dish that cried for a Cote Rotie or Hermitage. C'est la vie. Sommelier score C-.

Ruster Ausbruch "Essence" Fieler -Artinger, Rust: A really interesting dessert wine. Super high acidity kept it lively and awoke the tongue. The desserts were not to my liking so I swirled, sniffed, and quaffed this little jewel. Sommelier score A-.

All in all a fine job by the sommelier, who was a very nice gentleman, and spent more than his fair share of his time at our table.

Edited October 5, 2004 by Jason Perlow (log)

[Wilfrid]

Now that brings back some nice memories. We had told the sommelier that we liked reds, and he boldly paired two reds with fish dishes. I would never have thought of drinking that fairly sturdy Burgundy with cod - and probably wouldn't again - but it was certainly interesting. The crisper Brunello perhaps made more sense with a fish dish, but as we reported earlier the lobster itself was somewhat chewy, which distracted attention; I think I sort of ate the dish, then drank the wine, rather than experiencing them together.

As for the Shiraz, I was along in eating a very rich braised oxtail dish, and I was content to accompany that with a big, loud Aussie.

[ajay]

Ruster Ausbruch "Essence" Fieler -Artinger, Rust:  A really interesting dessert wine.  Super high acidity kept it lively and awoke the tongue.  The desserts were not to my liking so I swirled, sniffed, and quaffed this little jewel.  Sommelier score A-.

I too recently asked the kitchen to cook for me and the sommelier to pair wines with my courses...I didn't think to give him any parameters though I don't recall any chardonay.

The dessert wine, Ron mentioned is one of the best I've had in quite some time. I love sweet wine so for me this was a real treat. [The wine was initially paired with foie gras but i enjoyed it so much that I asked for a second pour in addition to my escellent solera sherry ximinez during dessert.] The sommelier said something about using condensed grape must to acheive the flavor...any comments, Ron? I'm not a sommelier and I've only had d'yquem once so in my book this wine still acheives an A+

[PaulaJK]

Has anyone had lunch there?

[tommy]

existing thread here with a lunch report from Bux.

[PaulaJK]

Thanks Tommy. It sounds v. interesting.

we've decided on Jean George for this

trip but hope to soon get to Atelier.

[madziast]

had lunch and dinner there and while lunch was decent, dinner was definitely underwhelming. was encouraged to order a la carte (instead of the regular 3-course dinner for $72)--FLEECED because the meal provided offered none of the fireworks i expected (Food & Wine mag's raising star etc., grimes' valentine of a review). when asked, the maitre 'd explained that the angel pasta app (less than a small egg worth of pasta) had sea urchin AND a quail egg on it, which jacked the price up to $28 (we're talking an app--and we ate in the lounge area, not the dining room, we didn't want a 3-course meal) . i'd rather have a BOWL of sea urchin "carbonara" with pasta, chicken egg and sea beans at Tocqueville for $16--roughly 4 times the size and sometimes served in a large CA sea urchin shell. the chefs on egullet will know what less than a handfull of pasta with 3 pieces of sea urchin (i regularly get more at esca in the shell for crudo) and a quail egg--plus a couple of crushed peppercorn--would cost. other dishes were equally unexciting and overpriced (another app ran $32 for crayfish and mushrooms, also miniscule and bland). i found it highly insensitive. the chef did not feel like talking to us. but the biggest problem was that it was bland and boring. it is just as upsetting to spend $5 on a bad meal as it is $500. i'm not a big fan of jean georges's restaurants but you should fare better there. ironically, Atelier's chef Gabriel Kreuther was chef de cuisine at Jean Georges for a long-time chef

[emsny]

I'm pretty sure that Atelier does not serve lunch.

[tommy]

I'm pretty sure that Atelier does not serve lunch.

right. they used to, now they don't.

[kurl]

Here's a New Atelier Review in the Times.

[PaulaJK]

We are seeking an upscale ambiance,

service and delicious cusine....has anyone

dined here? comment?

[oakapple]

We are seeking an upscale ambiance,

service and delicious cusine....has anyone

dined here? comment?

←

Atelier has lost its chef, Gabriel Kreuther, who is launching a new restaurant at the Museum of Modern Art. I'm sure Atelier is still a nice place, but whether it is at the same level as before remains to be seen.

The website still shows Kreuther as chef, which we know is not the case.

[PaulaJK]

thank you for this info Oakapple.

Has anyone dined there since the change of chef....or

does anyone have suggestions for a destination?

Bouley is unavailable due to a function. We've done Daniel

& Jean george and don't wish to repeat. Any other

distinguished hotel room?

[rozrapp]

While Town is not considered hotel dining room, it is located in the Chambers Hotel. The New American cuisine is excellent -- two signature dishes, the duck steak main course and dessert beignets, are not to be missed -- and the subterranean space is jaw-droppingly gorgeous. Service is fine.

Veritas is a favorite of ours, and many other eGulleteers are also fans. Chef Scott Bryan's New American cuisine is superb, and the wine list is one of the most extraordinary in the city. Service is professional, yet cordial. The space has stylish, contemporary decor.

Tocqueville is another restaurant we really like for upscale dining. The French/New American cuisine is delicious, and the exceedingly pleasant service staff works hard to ensure that the dining experience there is a success. This is another restaurant with minimalist contemporary decor that I find stylish and very soothing.

Although Fleur de Sel is considered a bistro, the fabulous French cuisine that chef/owner Cyril Renaud creates is really in the haute category. (He was, at one time, chef at La Caravelle.) A few months ago, we had a truly sensational tasting dinner there. Service is friendly and capable, and the small dining space has charming decor.

[Bux]

Why a hotel dining room? Would Ducasse at the Essex House count as a hotel dining room? The room and hotel are distinguished. Asiate, in the Madarin Oriental, might suit your needs. We had a very nice lunch there shortly after it opened. I don't think it was four star dining, but it was terribly wronged by Amanda Hesser's review. Of course there's Per Se in the same general location of the Time Warner Building. Le Bernardin is not in a hotel, but it's distinguished. I'm not sure what distinguished means. I'm thinking it's a place where I'd choose to wear a tie. Less formal but excellent in terms of food might be Oceana which I think of as being in the range of formality of the places in the last post. Cafe Boulud is there too.

[emsny]

The new chef of Atelier is Alain Allegretti, late of Le Cirque I believe.

[zeitoun]

Just found out that Kreuther left the kitchen at Atelier (months ago, where have I been???). I was considering a visit next month. Any recent feedback or impressions on Atelier with Alain Allegretti heading the kitchen? I really admire Kreuther's craft as a chef, I wonder if Atelier will stay the same without him.

[oakapple]

In yesterday's New York Post, Steve Cuozzo weighs in with the first post-Kreuther review of Atelier, aptly titled "Going for Baroque":

Atelier proves there are second acts in the lives of great restaurants. The sycamore-paneled womb tucked inside the Ritz-Carlton lobby lost its chef, Gabriel Kreuther, to The Modern last fall. His successor, former Le Cirque executive chef Alain Allegretti, had his work cut out for him — but he's swiftly made the room his own.....

The $85 prix-fixe is a thrill no one who can afford it should miss. Just sink into the plush green upholstery and kiss your diet au revoir.

The Post's website doesn't indicate how many stars Cuozzo awarded, but if it's not four, it probably didn't miss by much. Edited February 17, 2005 by oakapple (log)

[zeitoun]

Allegretti certainly has an impressive bio. I really didn't think much of Atelier without Kreuther, I'll have to reconsider. Thanks for sharing the article.

[AK@Spicehouse]

That is the reason why you must eat at the Modern at MOMA,..

Kreuther is a standout!!

Simply fabulous eats !!!

Allegretti certainly has an impressive bio.  I really didn't think much of Atelier without Kreuther, I'll have to reconsider. Thanks for sharing the article.

←

Edited February 18, 2005 by AK@Spicehouse (log)

[mascarpone]

What is the recent verdict on this place since Kreuther left? Has it slipped, is it still holding its own?

[mascarpone]

Has anyone been since Alleghretti took over?