alan richman's criticism of vongerichten

[mcohen]

i've read several pieces that alluded to a very critical piece by alan richman about jean-georges vongerichten, but i can't find that piece. anybody know when it was published, or where i can find it?

[TAPrice]

The piece ran in GQ's 2004 Man of the Year issue. From a press release heralding the issue, here is a summary of the story:

FOOD: "Stick a Fork in Jean-Georges," by Alan Richman, page 212 -- He was

once the most innovative chef in America, and his early restaurants, such as

Vong, revolutionized dining.  But after he hatched Spice Market and a string

of mediocre joints, GQ writer-at-large Alan Richman wonders: is Jean-Georges

Vongerichten cooked?

I can't find a copy of it online.

[slkinsey]

Interestingly, we had a thread here a while back called Has Jean-Georges Vongerichten Jumped the Shark?