TN: $20 and under

[Florida Jim]

2004 Victoria Valley Vineyards, Viognier Signature Series:

My second vintage taste of this South Carolina raised viognier; this one is varietally correct, smoothly textured, well-balanced and bright. Not a great wine but a good one and it keeps the variety in check with lighter alcohol while still being fully ripe. 12.4% alcohol, and about $18; I might buy it again.

2005 Drouhin, Chablis:

Correct for the variety and place, solid in delivery and well-balanced but nothing to inspire. Still, good chardonnay that isn’t blousy or over-oaked is not to be sneezed at. Really good with a mixed seafood grill.

12.5% alcohol, imported by Dreyfus Ashby and about $18; I’d buy it again.

2005 Dom. Diochon, Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée VV:

Smells slightly over-ripe (raisins), tastes a bit flat but quite spicy and otherwise delivers the ’05 cru Beaujolais experience, that is, big fruit, solid structure and smooth textures. ‘Nothing to get excited about but certainly not a bad wine or one to be passed-up in a “what do we order off this list” restaurant situation. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $17; I’d think twice before buying it again.

2005 Selectionnée par Kermit Lynch (Dom. Durban), Vin de Table Vaucluse (blanc):

A blend of chardonnay and viognier with charming aromatics, excellent textures and fabulous minerality; this is not what I expect from an inexpensive blend – it is such a lovely use of viognier and the alcohol is only 13%. ‘Greatly enjoyed along side pasta with olives, broccoli and feta. Imported by Kermit and about $9; I’d buy it again.

2001 Quinta das Hidrângeas, Douro:

Again a Portuguese table wine using the mix of port grapes without fortification; large, dark, tannic smelling wine that is not as tannic as expected (although still has grip) but is every bit as brooding and dark on the palate, slightly rustic and yet complex – maybe a bit tight at the moment. Interesting wine and good with grilled food. 14% alcohol, imported by Eric Solomon and about $20; I might buy it again (especially because I am enamored of the wines from this area).

2004 Dom. de Fontsainte, Corbières Reserve La Demoiselle:

A fascinating wine; as complex a wine as I’ve had in awhile and still perfectly balanced; also a bit of a changeling with ripe fruit morphing to earthy tones, dusty in the mouth and on the finish yet still ripe and mouthwatering, and overall, a very clean, palate-lifting delivery. This is mostly old vine carignan with syrah and mourvèdre blended in and was exceptional with grilled chicken and grilled veggies. 13% alcohol, imported by Kermit Lynch and about $11; I’d buy it again.

Best, Jim