Blue Hill at Stone Barns

[docsconz]

Actually the website is not the easiest to navigate nor the most informative (at least not yet). Anyone know what they have going on on Mother's day?

[tanabutler]

The invitation I received in the mail was just flat-out gorgeous.

I'd hardly call the card we received "gorgeous." But it does invite us "to preview the prix fixe menu at a 20% discount through the end of April."

The invitation I received had a handdrawn, antique-looking map with exquisite lettering (I'm a calligrapher), and the type was beautifully done as well. I consider Blue Hill's team to be world-class perfectionists, and an inspiration to me in every way.

Edited April 14, 2004 by tanabutler (log)

[rozrapp]

The invitation I received in the mail was just flat-out gorgeous.

I'd hardly call the card we received "gorgeous." But it does invite us "to preview the prix fixe menu at a 20% discount through the end of April."

The invitation I received had a handdrawn, antique-looking map with exquisite lettering (I'm a calligrapher), and the type was beautifully done as well. I consider Blue Hill's team to be world-class perfectionists, and an inspiration to me in every way.

That is the same one I received. While I didn't mean to imply that it was not a very nice invitation in terms of style, I did not take a calligrapher's view of it since I'm not one. I've received many invitations to all sorts of events, some of which have been gorgeous. I wouldn't classify this one in that way.

As for the Blue Hill team being "world-class perfectionists," that sure wasn't the case during our one dinner there. When I wrote it up, I talked about the fact that our main courses were served to us at an incorrect temperature, which my husband and I felt was inexcusable in a restaurant of that caliber. So much for perfectionism. It certainly turned us off the idea of dining again at Blue Hill. However, we may be in the vicinity of their new venture later this month and will most probably give it a try. That 20% discount would be a powerful incentive.

[docsconz]

How did you all get that invitation? BH@SB is not open to the general public until May 1. I'm jealous

[bpearis]

I got one too, but I'm not sure how as I've only eaten at the restaurant once. I think I signed up for their mailing list on the website. Maybe that's it.

[tanabutler]

How did you all get that invitation? BH@SB is not open to the general public until May 1. I'm jealous

I think from our affiliation at the Outstanding in the Field farm dinner back in October. Then I ate there twice (once in October, again in February).

I'd send you my invitation if I still had it, Docsconz, but I accidentally left it with the pastry chef of Craft when I met her last week in New York. (Which was silly, because she had one of her own, too.)

[docsconz]

How did you all get that invitation?   BH@SB is not open to the general public until May 1. I'm jealous 

I think from our affiliation at the Outstanding in the Field farm dinner back in October. Then I ate there twice (once in October, again in February).

I'd send you my invitation if I still had it, Docsconz, but I accidentally left it with the pastry chef of Craft when I met her last week in New York. (Which was silly, because she had one of her own, too.)

Thanks anyway, Tana. Actually I was just curious because I don't think I'd be able to get down there this month anyway.

[robert brown]

There are imperfections and work to be done, but Blue Hill at Stone Barns on the Rockefeller Estate a short ride from downtown Tarrytown will probably be the big story in the New York food media this spring. Three of us took the train from Grand Central Station and then a taxi for about five minutes where we alighted by a large agglomeration of stone structures with slate roofs that reminded me of a couple of those grandiose hotel-restaurants I have visited that are in the Germany section of the Relais & Chateaux Guide. We entered a vast courtyard surrounded on three sides by I guess what you could call something between a barn and a castle. A woman greeted us and explained that besides the restaurant there would be a catering facility and rooms for classes and lectures which she pointed out to us.

It's a long story about how $30,000,000 of the accumulated Rockefeller fortune has gone, or is going, to create this facility and turn 80 acres into organic gardening and the raising of animals. We were more interested in seeing how Mike Anthony and Dan Barber of Blue Hill were making out up there, having been chosen among several upscale New York restaurants to provide the restaurant concession. We encountered the bar and sat down at a table to have a drink while waiting for our table. It and the dining room are fitted out in a Minimalist fashion and not in the best taste. The dining room is really big and seats 90. Our table looked out into some of the fields around the restaurant.

Bear in mind that we were there for what is called the soft opening. It was the fourth night of service. To be succinct since I don’t have the time to offer a diner's report, the service staff was wet behind the ears and not attentive to see when the clients were in need. This included the manager. In fact, the best server was a busboy that one of us knew from Blue Hill in the city. The cuisine ranged from that which shows why Mike and Dan can be as good as any chef in New York to a few dishes or parts of dishes that need beefing up. Generally speaking the greens and the herbs that came from the property were impeccable; the best I have ever had in New York. This also included delicious asparagus. For some reason, however, the eggs from the farm, which are featured in three or four dishes didn't measure up to the fresh eggs we find in France. Main ingredients were disappointing. Wild salmon and sturgeon were without much taste and somewhat overcooked and lamb (from a near-by organic producer) and pork lackluster. Desserts were excellent with rhubarb from the farm the best ingredient.

I like the way these two chefs cook. Their approach and execution is well-grounded and inventive in a disciplined way. It's easy to give the enterprise at least another two weeks before the official opening to work out the current deficiencies. You should also take into account that the agricultural aspect is still a work in progress with many months remaining before it is fully implemented. On the other hand, there are shortcomings that unrealistically can’t be fixed in such a short time. I am probably being overly-romantic and unrealistic, but my food muse wants to see perfection, or something that approaches it, in such a magnificent setting backed by the rarest manifestation of culinary largess or idealism that exists. This is an incredible undertaking that shouldn’t be allowed to be corrupted by such distractions as catered events or a maximizing private gain.

[hspringut]

Are prices similar to Blue Hill?

[Bux]

I'm not surprised the restaurant is fitted out in a minimalist style, but I'm surprised and saddened to hear it's not tastefully done. I've really thought Blue Hill in NYC was really well designed and expected the same level at Stone Barns. That the food served at any soft opening is inconsistent would neither surprise or disturb me. People I know in the industry are always surprised if I mention even a mild interest in going to a very new restaurant. Almost universally, they expect things to take a while to shake out. I would however, have liked to be at Stone Barns this week if I had the time, to offer moral support to Mike and Dan. I share Robert's admiration for the way they cook. My dinners at Blue Hill have come as close to perfection as regularly there as at any restaurant I've been able to return to over a period of time. I can understand why Robert is looking for perfection.

I must admit that I've rarely, if ever, had eggs in the U.S. that came anywhere near the best I've had in France. Mrs. B will often choose an egg as a first course in a multistarred restaurant in France, albeit usually with truffles or something.

[bpearis]

Is Michael Anthony still part of Blue Hill? He's not mentioned on the soft opening invite I received, nor is his name on either website. Sorry if this has been discussed and answered before.

[newyorkomnivore]

Michael Anthony is the Exec Chef at Blue Hill's new place. He's right there on the website.

As far as the restaurant in NYC is concerned, I think Michael Anthony is not there anymore.

[tanabutler]

There is a new chef at Blue Hill in New York, I think his name is Juan. Michael has moved completely to Stone Barns. Dan will be going back and forth between the restaurants to assure continuity, I suspect. The teamwork -- it's downright family -- is one of their greatest strengths. It elevates them to the heights they've achieved, and deservedly, in my opinion. Were there a restaurant Olympics, I would want Blue Hill's team to represent the USA. (So sue me.)

As far as the "not in the best taste" thing, I would wait to hear from others. Taste is very subjective, after all.

[alacarte]

NY Times on Stone Barns

but you read it here first.

[tanabutler]

Google-cached version of last week's New Yorker: Adam Gopnik on Blue Hill Stone Barns

[bloviatrix]

If any of you get the Bergdorf Goodman catalogue (what they call The Magazine), Dan Barber had an article on Stone Hill in there which included a tale of his disasterous first meeting with David Rockefeller.

[SobaAddict70]

On a recent visit, tomatoes were just coming into season. Mr. Barber and Michael Anthony, the chef who works by his side, had used them for a rough purée that, Mr. Barber explained later by telephone, was hung in cheesecloth, with a container beneath to catch the drip. This nearly clear liquid — the distilled essence of the fruit, closer in spirit to a potion than a juice — came to the table in tall glasses, as an amuse-bouche. If early summer could be said to have a taste, this was it.

Blue Hill at Stone Barns (Frank Bruni)

A three star rating. Very interesting for a review that had less to do with the food than with the philosophy.

Not that there's anything wrong with that, of course.

Soba

[Jinmyo]

Do the techniques and creativity at BH actually warrant three stars? Even given the pristine ingredients, the argument could be made that pristine ingredients should be just expected at those prices. It's been said of Alice Waters, "That's not cooking, that's shopping." Is this a matter of gardening, not cooking?

What I have seen in many reports (but not tasted) seems more like really great bistro food without the steak frites.

Does reported clumsiness with the quality of the bread served (which even a fierce proponent noted somewhere was better served warmed even then only "relative to itself", which is pretty damning) and how to deal with such basics as, well, salt and pepper indicate a three star restaurant?

I mean: bread; salt and pepper. That's as basic as putting the food on a plate instead of ladling a dollop in the guest's hands or putting the plate on the table instead of the server just dropping it as they walk by.

[tanabutler]

Do the techniques and creativity at BH actually warrant three stars? Even given the pristine ingredients, the argument could be made that pristine ingredients should be just expected at those prices. It's been said of Alice Waters, "That's not cooking, that's shopping." Is this a matter of gardening, not cooking?

Having never dined in a Michelin restaurant or at French Laundry, I have nonetheless experienced some meals that were brilliant and artful. The two meals I had at Blue Hill in Greenwich Village, as well as the farm dinner that Dan Barber and staff prepared at Stone Barns, were nothing that could be called simplistic. I dined with my good friend, a chef and an instructor at French Culinary Institute (where Dan Barber is an alumnus), and she was beyond impressed.

It's not like they're slapping leaves on a plate and drenching them with dressing (or the equivalent for soup, etcetera).

I am delighted to read this review. Mr. Bruni must be very perceptive and sensitive.

[Bux]

Do the techniques and creativity at BH actually warrant three stars? Even given the pristine ingredients, the argument could be made that pristine ingredients should be just expected at those prices. It's been said of Alice Waters, "That's not cooking, that's shopping." Is this a matter of gardening, not cooking?

What I have seen in many reports (but not tasted) seems more like really great bistro food without the steak frites.

I'm not sure who you are reading. I've pretty well felt that BH offered three star cooking. The restaurant itself is rather casual, though refined and there's not much of a tendency to use luxury materials. The complexity of technique required to deliver such "simple" dishes has always struck me as three star and not that dissimilar to what I'd expect at Daniel in many ways. As for ingredients, they use some of the same suppliers. Anyway, the delicacy and balance, and even in some cases the number of ingredients that go into a sauce or garnish are not at all what I think of as bistro food.

I would sooner expect those questions about Arpège (Paris) than Blue Hill. I haven't eaten at Stone Barns yet. I don't recall another two star (that's what Grimes awarded Blue Hill) that's better and most don't come near approaching it in terms of offering serious food. I can think of three star restaurants that are not nearly in the same league.

I have been disappointed with the bread at times.

Frank Bruni does not seem to becoming the gastronomes restaurant reviewer. The review seemed short and less enticing than I would have expected just from my visits to Blue Hill. I mean either there are kitchen problems or there's some seriously excellent food coming to the table we should hear more about.

[markabauman]

Report from today's NY Times:

Blue Barns review

[markabauman]

Oops, meant "Blue Hill at Stone Barns".

[bpearis]

My one trip there at the beginning of june was excellent, everything we had was at least good, many things were great (like this chicken soup with sweetbreads that was a total home run).

Service was friendly and attentive but certainly not formal -- sorta like Babbo. (no rock music, though.) They can't be aiming for four stars -- not while they let old guys in tracksuits eat there, at least (as was the case on my visit... to think I was worried *I* would be underdressed!). It's obvious they care about and believe in thier concept and they should be happy with this review.

[rich]

Frank Bruni does not seem to becoming the gastronomes restaurant reviewer. The review seemed short and less enticing than I would have expected just from my visits to Blue Hill. I mean either there are kitchen problems or there's some seriously excellent food coming to the table we should hear more about.

I agree Bux. It seems Bruni has become more enamored with his writing style than the food.

I think the food at the "Barn" is outstanding. It's a shame he didn't do it justice by fully describing a few of the available specialties.

[robyn]

I wrote a message a while back about a previous Bruni review which seems to have disappeared (perhaps inartful thread pruning).

What I said is that Bruni is Italian - he has spent a fair amount of time in Italy - and his eating sensibilties seem very Italian to me. The best of ingredients prepared in simple/classical ways. Considering what I've read about this restaurant previously (assuming what I read was true) - I would have expected him to like it - and his review was on target.

I think after almost two months - I have a clear sense of the guy - what he likes - how he likes to eat. I was critical about him before he started - but I have a genuine fondness for his writing now. I just wish he could have been with us the day a lot of years back when we were driving around in the Italian countryside - and found the little restaurant in the hills with the beautiful huge bowl of pasta - the little roasted birds - the fresh from the garden salad tossed with a little oil and vinegar - the bit of cheese - and some coffee. When I think of Frank Bruni - I think this is how he likes to eat best. Not a bad way to eat in my opinion . I'm not sure it will play in haute cuisine New York food circles - but I find his attitude about food interesting for the NYT. Robyn

P.S. When we were in London in May - one of my favorites was a starter to have with drinks of ridiculously fresh English peas in the shells - served like you'd serve peanuts. Like the sugar snap peas he mentioned in the review. Except with the English peas - you pop them out of the shell more like peanuts.

P.P.S. I'm an ok cook - not a great cook. But I cook decent Italian. And I'd love to have Bruni over for dinner one night to get a taste of stuff like my fresh pesto. So Bruni - if you come to the Super Bowl next year - you're invited for dinner here!