Cafe du Parc at the Willard Hotel

[Busboy]

First Central Michel Richard; coming any minute, Robert Wiedemaier's Beck's -- both openings accompanied by the copious new and old media foreplay two of Washington's best chefs command. In between and somewhat overlooked comes yet another effort (at this rate, downtown's bistro concentration will soon equal that of certain Paris arrondissements) called Cafe du Parc. Allegedly overseen by Michelin-starred chef Antoine Westerman and run by a brigade trained by him in Paris (though he won his stars in Strasbourg), an early visit revealed a lot of potential -- a restaurant certainly worth watching, if not (yet) worth queing up for.

(Standard disclaimer: Cafe du Parc has only been open for two weeks and thus, when one is in doubt, should be given the benefit of the doubt, except for the decor, which is boring).

With two kids and my wife, we were able to cut a decent swath through the dinner menu on a Sunday night. There were highs and not-so highs. The Entrecote might have been the best piece of meat anyplace calling itself a cafe has served me (my daughter, actually) and the Bernaise was lovely. Quenelles of pike were a touch underwhelming (and immense), though I was pleased to see this oft-overlooked bistro standard on the menu. Likewise, it seems that the slice of pork belly which had spent 24 hours in sous vide before being crisped up on the grill might have used its time better -- it lacked personaliuy. On the other hand, the Bouchee a le Reine, a creamy stew made here with veal and chicken (rather than sweetbreads and chicken, as I have had it in other settings) and served in a pastry pot was spectacular.

I also quite enjoyed my slab of pate en croute and my wife's onion soup, especially the former (the soup being in the top of the class around town but not dissimilar in taste and quality from others). The steak tartar was -- to my son't taste -- over-capered and thus a bit watery, if quite acceptable. Frites were so-so. I hate to slander a new spot, but it almost seemed as if they's only been fried once. Quel horreur!

I wonder if the restaurant's commitment to "traditionally generous American portions" is self-defeating; none of us had room for dessert.

The all-French wine list tends towards the pricy, with few bottles under $40 (when will a DC Bistro take the bold step of adopting the authentic bistro practice of offering drinkable wine by the caraffe for a modest price? Never, I suppose) but my wife and I were pleased to see a bottle of Roussette, a wine rarely found outside its native Savoy, and which goes nicely with quenelles.

Service was new-restaurant uneven, but always enthusiastic.

Cafe du Parc has clearly aimed for a premium niche not occupied by its more established competitors (Les Halles, Bistrot du Coin, etc.) but which is suddenly growing quite crowded. It will be interesting to see how this new crop of premium bistros shakes out; in the mean time, the competition should be good for us all.