Jump to content

sverreef

participating member
  • Posts

    90
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by sverreef

  1. Test 2 of the cultured milk sherbet fixed the slight texture issue of test 1, so I think it's now good enough to share the recipe: Sorry for the horrible photo light... Served with marzipan soaked in the juice from fermented cherries, fermented cherry pieces and dark chocolate crumbs. I know that Flaxfiber is a pain to source, but hopefully, someone else will be inspired to try this method and share their results to further its development. I mentioned xanthan gum as an alternative to Flaxfiber under the recipe, but lambda carrageenan could probably also be an alternative? Glucose powder with DE42 is probably easier to source for the majority of you. I don't have more DE42 left myself to test it, but with other recipes in the past, I've been able to switch between DE33 and DE42 glucose powder without noticeable issues. I've just made a simplified conversion of the ratio of dextrose and glucose powder in order to keep the combined DE value of the two sugars consistent. Something like this: My next attempt will probably be strawberry or rhubarb (might be too acidic for Gellan gum to work), but my stock of glucose powder is almost empty, so it may take a little while before I get a chance to try that.
  2. In order to preserve my remaining pantry of elderflower infusion until I have the recipe dialed in, I decided to try the low acyl gellan gum cold hydration and Flaxfiber approach with another falvoured liquid (and a few other minor tweaks). The result is a cultured milk (2,6% milk fat) sherbet: The flavour was bright and refreshing, with just the right balance between sweet, salt and the tang from the cultured milk. "Rocherability" after one spin in the Pacojet was close perfect too. It could perhaps benefit from a slightly more creamy mouth feel though, so I'll try to increase the amount of Gellan gum from 0.51% to 0.55% next. A small addition of skim milk powder could also be worth a test. If I manage to dial this in perfectly, and provided that cold vacuum infusion can deliver the right thyme flavour, this may end up as my new preferred base for thyme "ice cream".
  3. Good news. Low temperature hydration of Gellan F is definitely possible 😀 In fact, the addition of sodium citrate worked almost too well... Still, the Elderflower sorbet had perfect scooping consistency after two spins in the Pacojet. I paired it with a base of roasted sunflower seeds (flavoured and bound together with salt, honey and glucose syrup) and grated frozen blue cheese. Very, very close, but for a sorbet, I actually found it slightly too "creamy". Gellan proves its reputation as a bit finicky, but its amazing flavour release and promising results on consistency, is definitely worth further testing. With some minor tweaks to the gellan and sodium citrate amounts, the elderflower sorbet might be dialed in perfectly 🙂 and then I can move on to other flavors. Adding all the sugars (and salt?) before hydrating the Gellan gum, as opposed to after like I did in this test, may have an impact on the result too. For those interested, the elderflower infusion I used had a Brix of 0.9%.
  4. My previous experience with Gellan gum has been limited to a few fluid gels using recipes from Chefsteps and the Modernist Pastry blog, so I was under the impression that low acyl Gellan gum needed close to boiling temperatures to hydrate properly (at least for parts of the liquid you want to "gel"). This isn't ideal for heat sensitive fruit juices, but luckily, the technique to preserve the fresh fruit flavour in Chefsteps' orange fluid gel is a good workaround. While I was searching the internet for information about gellan gum in sorbets/ice cream, I stumbled across the information about hydration temperature on page 6 in the "Gellan Book" however: https://www.scribd.com/document/153670720/Gellan-Book-5th-Edition If I understand this correctly, it seems like it could be possible to hydrate the Gellan gum in a sorbet base by adding sodium citrate and blending the base (or at least parts of it) until the temperature reaches only about 30-ish degrees Celsius... Has anyone tried this with low acyl Gellan gum before? If not, I guess I'll have to be te guinea pig with my next trial. Something like this maybe?
  5. I mentioned Sosa Flaxfiber as a potential stabilizer/emulsifier earlier in the thread, and now I've finally had a chance to play around with it in a couple of small Elderflower sorbet trials. In addition, I had a chat with the pastry chef at a restaurant l visited this summer, and he recommended Gellan gum as a sorbet stabilizer, so I decided to wing it and combine the two: Both trials spun once in the Pacojet, and both batches were surprisingly successful. Absolutely mazing flavour release, especially trial 1 (I didn't taste them back to back however, so the comparison was done by memory one week apart), and the texture/mouth feel was really good too. Definitely something worth further investigation with minor tweaks to the Flaxfiber/Hellan gum ratios. In future trials, I will probably substitute a few grams of dextrose for sucrose in order to reduce the freezing point depression slightly (ca. 1 degree C increased serving temperature). I've already tweaked the sugars for trial 3 in ICC, but I can't remember the exact numbers. A small addition of inulin and lambda carrageenan would also be interesting to try in order to find the perfect compromise between flavour release, mouth feel and melting rate/plated stability... I also can't wait to try this alternative approach with strawberry juice and/or puree for a direct comparison to my version of Paul's strawberry sorbet recipe tweaked for the Pacojet/Ninja Creai.
  6. A couple of recent successes I've had using this approach: Sorrel sherbet (sorrel added Lauren Eldridge style) On its own, it could have been a touch sweeter, so I might replace 4-5 grams of the cultured milk with fructose next time. When I paired it with "sorrel sugar", seen between the almond crumble and the sorrel sherbet, it balanced quite nicely however 🙂 Modernist Cuisine Sour Rhubarb sorbet variant I had just enough DE42 powder left for this batch (57 grams), so the the DE33 conversion is just something I'll try in the future, since DE33 powder is easier to buy for me. Served with roasted pumpkin seed crumble (made with the Pacojet coupe set) and rhubarb compote. Like the sorrel sherbet, it could probably be slightly sweeter, but I'll have to compare the relative sweetness between this and the original MC recipe in Ice cream calculator to see how they match up. As you probably can tell from the picture, the texture was phenomenal though.
  7. Thanks for highlighting this interesting technique. I'll probably try to use it for a sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum) ice cream. I haven't checked the plant I planted in my garden last fall in a while though, so if it has already flowered, the project might have to wait until next spring... I had a wonderful sweet woodruff sherbet at a restaurant in Berlin several years ago, so I hope to be able to replicate that flavor. I worry that the recommended maximum safe amount of 3,5 grams per liter won't be enough of the herb to highlight the sweet woodruff flavour however, but I'll never know until I try it. Do you (or anyone else) have any experience working with this herb?
  8. Sherbet is probably the right classification for it. Lactic acid fermented cultured milk (2.6% fat) and cultured skim milk are traditional staples here in Norway. Similar to buttermilk, and as far as I know, the main reason buttermilk isn't available in Norwegian grocery shelves. Sosa has two types of insulin. I recently got hold of the cold version too, which hydrates easier without heat, but I used the hot version this time, since I didn't want to change too many variables from the strawberry version I made when I only had the hot dissolving version. https://www.sosa.cat/en/product/hot-inulin/ In some places Sosa claim that the hot version must be heated, but in other places, it is only mentioned as a recommendation, and cold dispersion /hydration (over night) seems to work OK for me. If I remember correctly, Sosa has a recipe on their website with cold dispersion/hydration as well, but I can't seem to find it on my phone at the moment.
  9. In the past, I've had some success with adding elderflower infused water to the Chefsteps Creme Fraiche ice cream recipe, but it's been a challenge to maximize the elderflower flavour as much as I would like. Therefore, I got really excited by the result I got with strawberry juice and Paul's sorbet recipe, and now I've finally had the time to test it: 112.5g Cultured skim milk (0.4% milk fat) 498g Elderflower infused water (sweetened to 8 Brix) 25.5g Inulin (Sosa inulin hot) 33g Dextrose 57g Glucose powder DE42 22.5g Erythritol 1.5g CMC 0.75g Guar gum 0.75g Lambda carrageenan 0.75g Salt 2.5g Citric acid Spun two cycles in the Pacojet, and the result was close to spot on. Smooth and creamy mouth feel with a bright and clean elderflower flavour. Next time I'll try to double the amount of salt to see how that impacts the flavour. The milk also floated to the top of the beaker during the freezing process, so I'll probably add some flaxfiber in an attempt to stop that from happening. The separation isn't really a big issue as long as I spin the whole beaker, but it would be nice to have a stable mixture, so I have the option to spin only a few portions at a time.
  10. I find the time scale on the FDA time and temperature curve in MC1 difficult to get an accurate reading from, but it seems to be somewhere around 6 minutes. This matches The Simplified Dairy Pasteurization Recommendation table in the same chapter, which claims that ice cream and sweet/high-fat dairy products needs 6 minutes and 11 seconds at 72C.
  11. My go to ice cream base, the Chefstep Creme Fraiche ice cream, also comes out a bit crumbly after one spin in the Creami. Even at the light Ice cream program. The main reason is that one spin isn't enough to raise the temperature to the recipe's ideal serving temperature. Interestingly, the Pacojet (4) seems to emulsify the same ice cream base at a slightly lower temperature than the Creami, bur I have not done the measurements to document this, so it's just based on conjecture at the moment. For the sake of better scoopability, I usually spin the Creme Fraiche ice cream base twice in the PJ4 also. In the PJ, the number of portions you spin also affects the post spin temperature. Similarly, a recipe which requires two light Ice cream cycles for the perfect result with a full pint in the Creami, might need three spins if you only have the pint half full I actually made the modernist pistachio gelato about a week ago. I used the Chefstep version however to take advantage of their recipe scaling tool, but that is practically identical: I only spun 3.2 portions in the PJ. Slightly powdery after one spin. Two spins was probably enough to make it scoopable, but in order to mimic the flat surface seen post spin here: I opted for a third spin. The result was excellent, but ideally, it could probably go back in the freezer for 10-15 minutes to stabilize the temperature before scooping/plating.
  12. Savory application will have to wait for another time and a base with slightly lower sweetness level. I did include a leek element however. As for the smoking, the initial base I made tasted absolutely horrible, so I didn't even bother to freeze it. Instead, I made a plain base which I flavored with the previously smoked base. In the end, I ended up using only 45g of the smoked base 😄 (could have used a bit more though): Smoked creme fraiche ice cream served with roasted hazelnut crumble, fluid gel made from sous vide leek stock (not visible in the picture) and pickled carrot tartare. This has the potential of a really interesting dessert, but it needs a few revisions. The smoke needs to be more pronounced, but without becoming acrid and overwhelming, like the 100% smoked base did. The carrot tartare could also need some minor tweaks (more acid and sweetness). To be continued once I figure out the smoke flavour and how to balance it...
  13. Smoking is probably not what the OP had in mind when this topic was created, but since it is a type of infusion, it's at least somewhat related to the topic 😄 I just prepared a juniper needle smoked batch of the CS creme fraiche base recipe I've been using. This is the first time I've smoked anything, so I'm probably way off on the amount of smoke, but I guess we'll see how the flavour develops over night and in the freezer before I spin it. I smoked the complete ice cream base in the blender, so it should be relatively easy to adjust the intensity of the smoke flavour if this one is too strong or subtle. Has anyone had any success with smoked ice cream and suggestions on what to pair it with? My inspiration for trying this is the amazing smoke flavour of the cream emulsion in a starter I had at Restaurant Kontrast in Oslo about a year ago, so I may try to pair the ice cream with pickled root vegetables... https://www.instagram.com/p/CzL7xGyiM2w/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
  14. I've posted my attempt to recreate the flavour of restaurant Maaemo's Brown Butter ice cream before, but here's an improved version: As usual, I've used the Chefsteps Creme Fraiche ice cream recipe as a guideline, but with a few major changes to accommodate for the fat in the browned butter. 45g Sucrose 51g Glucose powder 33DE 22,5g Skim milk powder 263g Water 54g Brown butter (heated to 130 Celsius with added skim milk powder) 1,1g Locust bean gum 1,5g Salt 150g Creme Fraiche 5% fat LBG was hydrated with water, butter and the other dry ingredients sous vide, then blended with the creme fraiche. The flavour of the brown butter in combination with the tang from the creme fraiche is absolutely amazing by itself, but the pairing with the roasted hazelnut "crumble" (hazelnuts, golden syrup and salt) really takes it to another level 😀 Disclaimer: I didn't actually spin this in the Creami, since I decided to give myself a PJ4 as an early Christmas gift about a month ago 😁 but the result in the Creami should be more or less identical...
  15. I've made a few iterations of this since last time, including a control batch identical to the trehalose free version posted above. The control version was a bit too dense/sticky for my liking, and I couldn't make the quenelles release cleanly from the spoon. I'm guessing this may be caused by using the creami vs churning. Less aeration perhaps? It could perhaps also be the inulin I'm using: Sosa inulin hot. Mixing the two batches - approximately 3/4 control and 1/4 my original adaptation solved the scooping issue i experienced with the control batch: My favourite compromise of flavour release, sweetness and scoopability has been this however: 112.5g Boiron Strawberry puree 498g Clarified strawberry juice 25.5g Inulin (Sosa inulin hot) 33g Dextrose 57g Glucose powder DE42 22.5g Erythritol 1.5g CMC 0.75g Guar gum 0.75g Lambda carrageenan 0.75g Salt 2.5g Malic acid @paulraphael Have you considered Flaxfiber as an alternative/addition to this approach to sorbet? Seems to have very interesting properties and applications, not only for sorbets:
  16. I've had this happen once myself (but just barely visible). Do you remember which processing mode you used when this happened? For me it happened when I selected the ice cream mode instead of light ice cream, which I normally use. My theory is that the reduced rpm and shorter processing time of the ice cream mode resultsled in excessive torque on the spindle when it was used in conjunction with a hard and/or cold ice cream mixtures.
  17. I've not been able to source trehalose here in Norway, so I've just tried a version of your trehalose-free version in the Ninja Creami. To work around the somewhat dull colour of the Boiron strawberry puree I had available, I made two changes to the recipe: Puree replaced 1:1 with clarified strawberry juice with brix 9.2% (made in the Spinzall) and water replaced 1:1 with strawberry powder to reintroduce some (?) of the solids I lost because of the clarification. Finally, acidity was adjusted with a couple of grams of malic acid. I have not calculated PAC/POD and freezing point for this version, but the mouth feel and scoopabiliy was absolutely spot on after one spin in the Creami on the light ice cream setting, and the flavour was pretty close to perfect too, so thanks a lot for the recipe 😀 Next time, I'll probably try to reduce the sweetness a fraction without altering the total amount of solids. From the left-over strawberry juice, I also made a strawberry "creme anglaise". The sauce was good, and presented the strawberry flavour in a contrasting texture and temperature to the sorbet, but as a complete dish, the sauce and sorbet were just too similar in flavour profile...
  18. Chefsteps presented this technique as a hack in the following recipe a few years ago: https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/aerated-peanut-butter-brittle Considering the price tag on a chamber vacuum sealer, you may want to consult your machine's producer before you try it, but I would be very surprised if a "power outage" in the middle of a vacuum cycle would affect a vacuum machine negatively.
  19. If your machine can't be programmed to run an extended vacuum cycle, as seen in the vide linked below, you could try to unplug your machine's power cord as soon as it has reached the desired vacuum level (before the seal and repressurization step). The stop button will usually just skip to the next step in the vacuum cycle.
  20. Norway is correct 🙂 I don't mind the seeds when I pick them straight into my mouth (or if I don't have enough left for a reasonably sized vacuum pouch), but in a dessert, they should definitely be removed.
  21. I pick them and make it myself: My cloudberry fluid gel is a mix between a cloudberry sauce/coulis I've made and improved upon for years and the Chefsteps fresh orange fluid gel recipe: https://www.chefsteps.com/activities/fresh-orange-fluid-gel The ingredients of the granita I made yesterday was identical to this, with the exception that gellan and xhantan gum was substituted with 2.5g gelatin, and I also omitted the salt. The granita was OK, but unlike the fluid gel, it needs more work, or maybe I just served it too cold?
  22. I love the artistic flair of your plating, @EnriqueB. Lots of inspiration there, and your flavour combinations sounds intriguing too 🙂 I REALLY need to figure out a way to run ICC on one of my Linux computers soon. If not, I guess I'll have to invest in a cheap Windows tablet just for ICC... Here are a couple of my latest experiments by the way: Pineapple sorbet Adapted from the MC sour rhubarb sorbet recipe. 407g Boiron Pineapple puree 56g Glucose powder DE42 16g Sugar/sucrose 1,5g Salt 3g Citric acid (to taste) Everything added to blender for a quick blend before filling the Creami pint and freezing. The texture and flavour of the sorbet were both spot on. The toasted coconut milk curds (latik?) and pineapple caramel needs tweaking however. I should also have used a flavourful liquid when I compressed the fresh pineapple, but I didn't have anything available at the time. Today, I did a test of our Christmas Eve ice cream, which I prepared a triple batch of earlier this week. Thyme infused Creme Fraiche ice cream Served with vanilla panna cotta, cloudberry granita (will be replaced with cloudberry fluid gel on Christmas Eve for better flavour release) and honeycomb tuile. The ice cream base is as usual the Chefsteps creme fraiche ice cream, which has been infused (sous vide) with fresh thyme for 20 minutes at 80 degrees Celsius. A big thanks to @paulraphael for the inspiration and ratios for the infusion. Unlike the pineapple sorbet, the thyme ice cream was not a hit with my nephew and niece, but it's one of my absolute favourites, and as a bonus, the flavour pairs really well with cloudberries 😀
  23. Approximately, somewhere along the west coast of Norway...😋
  24. I got lucky and caught the back end of a decent Boletus edulis "fruiting" about a month ago. Ended up with over 2 kilograms, including a few bay boletes (Imleria badia), which was a first for me 🙂 Not that I really need more boletes now, but I'm hoping for a second fruiting later this month or early October.
  25. I'm really looking forward to see what you'll make with your Creami, Mars. Once I'm done with the mushroom foraging season, I also have to have a proper look at your IG 🙂 Between fly fishing and vacation trips, I've not had much time to make ice creams. I finally gathered all the ingredients (minus freeze dried strawberry powder) and the time to make the complete Modernist Cuisine sour rhubarb sorbet dish. Both the salad and the gazpacho tasted great, but I feel that they didn't work 100 per cent together with the rhubarb sorbet. Sorbet made with Fulton's strawberry surprise rhubarb. Good flavour, but the texture was a bit too sticky. I think maybe the length the rhubarb stems are cut before you sous vide them impact the amount of pectin you end up with after the straining step? At least I've had my best result when I cut the rhubarb in 2-3cm pieces. I also made a strawberry version of the blueberry/creme fraiche recipe I posted back in March: Good flavour, but the highlight of the dish is definitely the pairing of strawberry and roasted pumpkin seed praline (hidden under the fresh strawberries), which I've tried to recreate from a strawberry desert I got at restaurant Kontrast in Oslo two years ago. Lastly, I found over 2 kilos of cep/penny bun/porchini mushrooms (Boletus edulis a couple of weeks ago, so naturally, I had to try to make a mushroom ice cream.... As usual, I used the CS creme fraiche recipe as the base, and modified it with cues from this grilled cep ice cream recipe from El Celler de Can Roca: http://www.lomejordelagastronomia.com/en/dishes/grilled-cep-ice-cream-0 I made two batches. This one is without the deglazed pan juices and had a very clean, fruity and distinct cep flavour. I skipped the caramel, smoke and confit cep caps from the El Celler de Can Roca recipe, but together with an almond crumble (100g peeled and roasted almonds, 2g salt, 68g Scandinavian dark syrup) and pickled chanterelles, it was simply amazing 😀 The pickled chanterelles were made following Mikael Svensson's recipe, and aged for three years in the back of the fridge... I can't link directly to the translation, but if you copy the link to https://translate.google.com/?sl=auto&tl=en&op=websites, you should be able to get a decent translation of the recipe: https://www.dn.no/smak/sylteskolen/smak/mikael-svensson/sopp/-sopp-blir-bedre-jo-lenger-den-star-pa-glass/2-1-679891
×
×
  • Create New...