Wolfert
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Zeitoun: I was originally thinking of making a tray kibbeh, but then I thought how much I like making the ovals. I'll let you know.
To anyone reading this:
I wish I had the energy to type out the instructions for making the ovals. Doesn't seem right to begin a thread without delivering all the info.
If there is anyone out there with a copy of my Eastern Mediterranean cookbook willing to do the typing, I give the ok to type and post the text from pages 265 through 269.
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Try heating the skillet over medium high heat
Then add the oil or fat
When the oil or fat is hot
Add the meat. Brown well on all sides.
Remove the meat ; pour off the fat.
Repeat with the second batch.
If the second batch is the last one, you can let it brown a little slower and develop debris.
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in Israel there are a wide selection of Kibbe's (the most common pronanciation is Kubbe). It is mostly linked to Iraqui origin, especially the Kubbes that are cooked in a soup. Some restuarants simply have a 'color code' to the variuos Kubbe soups: pumpkin (orange) ; beetroot (red) okra (green).
That is so interesting. Thanks
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About 12 years ago, I traveled to the Middle East and to the Eastern Mediterranean to learn about kibbeh for a book I was writing. When you check out the list below, you will understand why kibbeh has been called the masterpiece of the Middle Eastern table.
Aside from the Syrian and Lebanese versions, the Cypriots make it and call it koupas, the Israelis make it and call it kibbe, the Palestinians make it and call it kubba, the Turks, icli kofte, Assyrians, kittel, and the Armenians kufta.
The huge amount of Syrian recipes were gathered with the help of Aleppo based Al-Jabri family.
I divided the kibbeh variations: fried kibbeh, vegetarian kibbeh, grilled kibbeh, poached and steamed kibbeh, baked kibbeh, leftover kibbeh, and raw kibbeh.
I personally tasted all fifty when I did this project, but lost quite a few of the recipes in moving files from one computer to another and another over the years. The recipes I still have are typed in bold below. If anyone is interested. I'll pm those of interest to you. I no longer have them on my computer so be patient. I need to type them up. I can't post them all because the book is still in print and my publishers would have a fit.
I would love to complete my own set, so if there is anyone out there with a good version of any of the others listed below, do share. Thanks.
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Fried Kibbeh
1. Kibbeh Ovals Stuffed with Nuts Qras Maqliyyeh, Syria
2.Extra Crisp Ovals Stuffed with Pistachios. Icli Kofte, Gaziantep, Turkey
3. Baby Size Kibbehs Stuffed with Braised Lamb Shank, Tomatoes, and Onions. Kibbeh Hamis, Damascus, Syria
4.Tennis-Ball--Size Kibbeh. Kiibbeh Halaby, Aleppo, Syria. Huge ovals, crisp on the outside and juicy within. Known fondly as the "Pride of Aleppo."
Vegetarian Kibbeh
5.Pumpkin Kibbeh Stuffed with Spinach, Chickpeas, and Walnuts. Lebanon
6. Fish Kibbeh Flavored with Fresh Coriander and Grated Orange. Kibbeh Samak, Lebanon
7. Vegetarian Red Lentil Ovals with Tarragon-Onion Salad. Malhitali Kofte, Gaziantep, Turkey
8. Potato Kibbeh Stuffed with Fried Onions, Chickpeas, and Cinnamon, and Baked in a Tray. Kibbeh Batata bi-siniyyeh, Lebanon
Grilled Kibbeh
9. Flat Pancakes Stuffed wtih Walnuts, Butter, and Spices. Kibbeh Sajiya. Syria
10. Dome Kibbeh Stuffed with Lamb kidney Fat, Hot Pepper, Walnuts, Pomegranate Molasses and Pomegrnate seeds. Kibbeh Michwiya. Syria
11. Small or large Skewered Balls or Sausages. These Kibbeh are either stuffed or unstuffed, but always highly seasoned with herbs & spices. Aleppo. Syria
12. Kibbeh Grilled and Served in a Meat and Quince Stew, Garnished with Onions, Carrots, Pomegranate Juice, and Tomatoes. Safarjaliah, Aleppo. Syria.
Poached and Steamed Kibbeh
13. Ground Beef or Veal Shells Stuffed with Meat, Celery, Walnuts, and spices. Kibbeh Hamud, Syria. This kibbeh is poached in a tart vegetable broth flavored with mint. An old dish from the Jewish community of Aleppo.
14.Steamed Marble-size Unstuffed Bulgur Balls served in a Tangy Tomato Soup, Eksili Akitmali Ufak kofte, Gaziantep, Turkey
15.Kibbeh with Eggplant and Sumac. Soumaqieh. Aleppo. Syria. "The Cadillac of Kibbehs"
16. Lamb and Sour Cherries with Kibbeh. Kibbeh bi Karaziah. Aleppo, Syria
17.Kibbeh with Glazed Carrots and Pomegrante. Kibbeh bi Jazareeyeh. Aleppo, Syria
18. Kibbeh Steamed in pomegranate Juice Thickened with Cornstarch. Kibbeh bi Romaneya. Lebanon.
19. Kibbeh Poached in Yogurt Sauce with Garlic and Mint or Coriander or Tarragon. Labaniyeh, Lebanon and Syria
20. Lamb Dumplings and Kibbeh in Yogurt Sauce Shish Barak bi Laban, Lebanon
21. Apricot Shaped Kibbeh Poached in Yogurt Sauce wtih Sauteed Fresh Favas and Tarragon. Michemchiya. Damascus, Syria
22.Kibbeh and Chicken Poached in Yogurt Enriched Broth. Madzoon Kofte, Armenia.
23. Kibbeh with Cauliflower and Chickpeas in Yogurt-Tahini Sauce. Fakheteya-Arnabeya, Syria. This dish, tart with pomegrante juice, is topped with fried coriander and garlic.
24. Kibbeh Cooked with Favas and Swiss Chard in Yogurt Sauce. Syria.
25. Kibbeh-Poached in Fermented yogurt-Bulgur Sauce. Kibbeh Kishk. Syria
26. Kibbeh-Poached in Fermented Yogurt-Bulgur Sauce with Fried Cabbage.
27. Steamed Kibbeh with Hot Pepper Sauce. Kibbeh Flefla Hamra. Syria
28. Green Kibbeh with Swiss Chard and Walnut Sauce. Armenia and Syria.
29 White Kibbeh with Yogurt-Tahini Sauce. Kibbeh Baida. Syria
30. Poached Stuffed Kibbeh with Tahini Sauce garnished with Walnuts and Parsley, Syria
31.Poached Kibbeh with Tahini-Walnut Sauce, Fried Onions and Chickpeas. Kibbeh Ladanea. Latakia, Syria
32. Poached Kibbeh Stuffed with Almonds, Fried Onions, and Meat, garnished with Chickpeas and Lamb Shanks, and Served wtih Tahini Sauce and Hot Pepper. Kibbeh Arnabeya, Syria.
33. Large Kibbeh Stuffed with Hard Boiled eggs, poached in a Fava, Coriander, and Swiss Chard Stew. Kibbeh Faleya. Syria
34. Kibbeh Poached in Eggplant and Meat Stew. Syria.
35. Kibbeh Poached in Artichoke and Meat Stew. Syria
36. Kibbeh Poached in Pumpkin and Meat Stew. Syria
Baked Kibbeh
37.Tray Kofte, Gaziantep Style. Turkey
38. Kibbeh patties Stuffed with Mixed Nuts and Sumac. Lebanon
39. Two-Layer Kibbeh Stuffed with Meat, Onions, and Nuts, Baked in a tray. Kibbeh bi Siniyyah. Lebanon and Syria
40. Tray Kibbeh Baked with a Tahini Topping. Haifa, Israel.
41. Potato Kibbeh Stuffed with Onions and Pinenuts. Known as Kibbeh hileh, or 'trick kibbeh," because there is no meat. Syria.
42. Coil-Shaped Kibbeh Stuffed with Pinenuts, Walnuts, and Meat Kibbeh Mabrumih, Damascus, Syria.
Leftover Kibbeh
43.Leftover Kibbeh Simmered in an Onion and Tomato Stew. Syria
44. Leftover Kibbeh Simmered in Onion Sauce with Chicpeas and Tahini. Syria
45. Fried Kibbeh Topped with Scrambled Eggs, then Baked. Syria
46. REd Lentil and Blugur Blended wtih Leftover Filling of
Ground Meat, Fried with Minced Onions and pInenuts. Damascus. Syria. this kibbeh is spread out on a plate, and topped with a sauce made with the remaining ground meat. Syria.
Raw Kibbeh
47 Flat. Cold Raw Kibbeh. Topped with Warm Meat, Onions, and Walnut Sauce. Garnished with Mint and Parsley. Syria
48. Flat, Cold Raw Kibbeh Topped with Mint, Scallions, Parsley, and Olive Oil, and Served with a Warm Meat, Onion, and Tomato Sauce. Syria.
49. Flat, Cold Raw Kibbeh Garnished with Olive OIl, Parsley, and Tomato. Lebanon.
50. The Tank. Kibbeh Debbahoh. Damascus. Syria. Made with a raw shell stuffed with cooked meat, this kibbeh is shaped like a rocket and heavy like ....a tank
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Here are my favorite food stops in Sonoma:
The Cheesemaker's daughter for the carefully chosen cheese and the great gelato
The Sonoma Market
LaSalette for the fish baked in a wood burning oven, the fried sardines, and the cornmeal rolls
Deuce for the grilled Wolf Farm quail, the lamb chops and the soups
Sonoma Saveurs for the duckburger, the artisan foie gras terrine, and thegrilled duck magret
Meritage for the fresh oysters
Cafe de la Haye for the smoked salmon, the pasta and the grilled meats
Red Grape for the New Haven style pizza!!!
The Swiss Hotel for the French fries
Fiorini Italian Bakery for the Italian style cookies
Himalaya for the tandoori naan
P.S.Andalucia and la poste are closed.
Maya is about to close.
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Your tray kibbeh looks wonderful.
I have promised myself to make a tray this weekend. Thanks
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The method for making 5 day lemons is only for those who need one preserved lemon within a week. Leftovers will rot.
Susan, with all those lemons you have on hand, do the 30 day cure and you will have them for up to 2 years. Now, how good ist that? I lived in Morocco for 7 years and I never heard about curing lemons in less time. Of course, if you sliced the lemons you could speed up the curing but then you wouldn't have big peels for garnish and other dishes that you might want in the coming months. Please follpw tradition in this case.
What about spices? I give a number of recipes in my Moroccan cookbook including one from the the town of Safi. Honestly, t I never make them that way anymore because I love the pure taste of salt cured lemons. It is your choice. You could always stick a cinnamon stick or bay leaf in the brine if you wish. I don't.
For every organic lemon whether it is a thin skinned meyer or a thick skinned eureka, plan on using 1 tablespoon kosher coarse salt .
Quarter each lemon from the top to within 1/2 inch of the bottom, sprinkle 1 tablespoon coarse salt onto the exposed flesh, then reshape the fruit.
Pack into a mason jar that has 1 tablespoon salt on the bottom. Push down the lemons, adding another tablespoon of salt between each lemon, and then add extra pure lemon juice to cover.
Seal and let ripen in a warm place. I turn the jar upside down everyday as it ripens for up to a month. If you do less turning upside down, nothing will happen to destroy your lemons.
To use, rinse a lemon as needed, under running water; usually you don't use the pulp so discard it. You could use it for marinating lamb or chickenl.
And please don't put your fingers into the brine.; use tongs. Fingers corrupt the curing. If it ever smells like furniture polish you corrupted the brine.
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I do know that cardoons and artichoke bottoms maintain color and flavor if they are soaked and poached in heavily parsleyed water. The resulting flavor doesn't have that peculiar tinny taste they acquire when soaked in acidic watert.
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Mr. Rogov:The recipes look great. Thanks for sharing them.
I have collected mallow aka khobeiza aka malva sylvestris here in California. I've steamed the stemmed leaves with garlic until tender then combined the leaves and garlic with salt, harissa, ground coriander, and ground caraway. I beat the mixture the way they do it in Tunisia adding hot water and olive oil until it turned creamy. Delicious as a dip with semolina bread.
www.elba-capoliveri.net/associazioni/erbario/malva.htm
I think I mentioned this earlier but when I lived in Connecticut my local Middle Eastern grocer sold molokhia aka Jew's mallow aka corchorus olitorius seeds to local customers for spring planting.http://www.sfc.ucdavis.edu/research/AsianVeg/misc.htm
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Just as it's been said that all Russian literature has been taken from Gogol's overcoat, so most modern American cooking has been derived from Julia's apron.
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Todaro Brothers in New York ships a top quality brand of San Marzano tomatoes.
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The package is 100%pure molokhiah.
The dish is made in the following way for 8 people:
1 pound beef or veal or lamb is marinated in a mix of garlic, harissa, coriander, caraway, rosebuds, cinnamon bay leaf and orange rind. While the meat is soaking up the flavors, about 1/3 cup of molokhiah is slowly combined with 3/4 cup of cool olive oil in a large pot. The two are heated together, stirring, until a boil is reached. Then about 2 quarts of water is mixed in. The liquid slowly cooks for a few hours. Finally it is combined with the marinated meat and simmered over very low heat for another few hours.
The sauce is black and shiny.
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Absolutely confit the leg. The breast is better grilled and served medium rare.
Simply criss cross the skin, season, and slowly fry it in a skillet, skin side down, to remove most of the fat. If you do this slowly, you can use the fat for the confit. When most of the fat is rendered out of the skin, take the breast off the heat and let it rest about 10 minutes. Just before serving, cook the breast in the same skillet with just a drop of fat until medium rare. Slice crosswise on the diagonal. Serve just like a steak.
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Please note that in the Tunisian version of molokhiya in its very concentrated powdery form there could be some ingredient that is a soporific .
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I've been reading thru my new Bouchon cookbook, anyone else? I find it interesting that Keller's recipe for onion confit calls for cooking it only one hour. The picture of it shows the onions not even brown. Any comments on this? Seemed more like sauted onions to me.
Not wanting to sound like a spoiler, but I'm thinking you might want to change the wording from 'onion confit' to 'onion jam' or 'onion marmalade.' Unless there is some reason to 'preserve' the cooked onions in order to develop even more flavor.
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undefinedAlso, I think that 80ºC/175ºF for 7 hours may be a bit long, though I've never cooked with Barbary duck. The 80ºC / 6 hour combo you're using for the Pékin legs sounds about right. I cooked my Moulard legs longer, but they generally require longer cooking than "Long Island" (Pékin).
Up until yesterday, I would agree with you completely. That is until I received a six-pack of moulards from preferredmeats.com. Each moulard duck leg weighed between 13 and 14 ounces.
I packed three of the legs in a foodsaver pack and set them in water heated to 180 degrees and cooked them at that temperature.
I poached the remaining three in duck fat heated to 180 degress as well.
Both containers were put in the same oven. I had some fluctuation in oven heat; it took 11 hours to arrive at the toothsome texture I love without the flesh falling apart. Just as mnathan suggested.
The texture of the sous vide was superior, especially the skin which was silky! The flavor of the fat-cooked legs was better.
There was a lot of water in my food saver packet, so I dumped it out. Didn't repack in food saver but decided to store the sous-vide cooked legs separately in fat to improve flavor. The best of both worlds.
I'll let you know in three weeks. I think a little aging is necessary for a true test of confit. Otherwise it is nothing but poached duck leg. Am I wrong?
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Tunisia has a huge repertoire of couscous recipes. This attractive and spicy onee is most unusua and delicious. It is also easy to prepare.
You make a rich and robust sauce, mix it with the couscous, and steam it altogether. The easy part is you don't need to turn it out mid cooking. You just steam the couscous until it is perfectly cooked.
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As a food writer, I have always loved dishes about which a story can be told, a story, perhaps, about why and by whom a particular dish is cooked, or relating something about the place where it is served. It puts the dish in context and makes it come alive. It is a bridge I create with my readers.
On the other hand, II totally understand where you are coming from. And, it does seem appropriate as new products such as couscous become available, to delve into them, explore their possibilties, and enjoy them as you wish.
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North African cooking is blessed with so many recipes for couscous and for serving it.
I love the traditional couscous recipes best---couscous with favas and buttermilk; couscous with seven vegetables; couscous cooked with wild greens and peppers; couscous with Lamb Confit and Greens; barley couscous with lamb and Chard; barley couscous with favas and buttermilk; and couscous with pomegranates, orange and cinnamon.
What I like is that they employ ingredients that have traditionally complemented one another and that , when combined, create a flavor different and more pleasing then when served on their own. Until I've tasted all the great couscous dishes of the world, I plan to keep away from dipping into fusion couscous.
I am intrigued by sophisticated kitchen techniques and if a way can be found to make steaming easier (it isn't hard but people do groan) I'm game to try it.
I also wear the hat of a French South West cook and I am very enthusiastic about preparing duck confit with the technique of sous vide. Something I've been learning about on another thread.
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I render fat with some water to keep it from frying and turning color.
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Here is a picture of a couscous "basket" that I purchased in the town of Sfax for 3 dollars.
It is very similar in size, shape and color to one used in the Sicilian town of Trapani where they make fabulous fish couscous. There is a very special way of curing the wet couscous with spices. Anyone out there know the method?
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http://www.spitjack.com
It's a rotating spit (either mechanical or electric) that you can stand in front of your fireplace for roasting. I've wanted one of these since I saw my landlord using his girarrosto to roast a pheasant on his hearth. Le sigh... if only I had a fireplace.
Is this cool or what?
I have a similar one from Florence called a FUF. I purchased the mechanical verson because 1\ the electricity is different over here. and 2\ I was afraid of wires so close to the heat.
Do check the timing on the mechanical. On the FUF, I find I have to rewind every 8 or 9 minutes. This gets very annoying because if you're not there your birds can't call you and they just char.
Other than that you are going to love it.
Kibbe
in Middle East & Africa: Cooking & Baking
Posted
Elie:
I am so sorry. I forgot you posted directions. You do remember that I adored the class and wrote you at the time. Dp you think we could transfer the information you posted to this thread? It might be very helpful: I have already received some pm's asking for recipes using shells..