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slkinsey

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by slkinsey

  1. I have a question.  I now have some All Clad stainless pans, which have discolored with their first usage.  If this were normal stainless, I'd have scoured them out with steel or copper scrubbies and have been done with it.  But the instructions say I can't - that I shouldn't use steel wool.  Why?

    Functionally there is no reason you shouldn't be able to scrub them with copper scrubbies. The reason All-Clad doesn't want you to do this is because it will leave scratches on the surface of the pan and the cosmetic appearance of All-Clad Stainless is important to most people who purchase it. Personally, I'd recommend Bar Keeper's Friend over a copper scrubbing pad for this use. Either way, you're not going to have that mirror finish any more.

    I should point out that a certain amount of discoloration on your All-Clad Stainless isn't going to change its performance one bit.

    2.  By the way, Sam Kinsey, quite some time ago, you said that you might enjoy having one of the 15.75 inch Mauviel oval table service roaster/gratin pans, I recall you saying that you thought it'd be versatile.  I ordered one of those from homeclick.com 2-3 weeks ago, and it arrived today.

    I gather we're talking about this post here where I said:

    Second, would there be any reason to buy any of the oval pans?  People seem to love them.  Falk makes them with cast-iron handles, and the larger ones, I think, are 2.5 mm copper, whereas the Mauviel seems to be 1.6 mm, with brass handles.

    If you're asking about Falk's "oval casserole," most of what I said about their "stew pot" also applies here. I just don't see why it's worth sprending the money for copper and would gravitate towards enameled cast iron, which has the added advantage of being much less expensive.

    If you're talking about gratin pans, it gets a little more complicated. The thing about a gratin pan is that looks do make a difference, because you will be bringing the pan to the table. Whether copper makes sense will largely depend on how you think you might use the pan. Strictly for making things "gratinée" (which is to say, cooked in the oven or under the broiler until brown and crispy on top), it probably doesn't add anything to use copper and you might as well use porcelain. Metal gratin pans can have added functionality, however, because they can be heated on the stove. You could use it as a "sizzle plate" to finish items in the oven. You could toss in some fat and garlic on the stovetop, start a whole fish in the pan, and take the whole thing to the oven. You could roast poultry in the gratin pan, use the same pan to make a pan sauce, return the poultry to the pan and take the whole thing to the table. There are a lot of things you could do with a metal gratin pan.

    For many of these extended applications, heavy copper could really come in handy. Keep in mind, however, that the 1.6 mm Mauviel line is called "table service." It is fine for the oven, but is too thin for stovetop cooking.

    That last bit is actually quite important. Mauviel's Table Service line is not intended for stovetop cooking, and won't perform well in that context. From a purely functional standpoint, something like Falk Culinair's large gratin pan pan at 2.5 mm thickness would have good versatility in that it could be heated on the stovetop. You couldn't really do that with a piece of Mauviel Table Service.

  2. Friends in the know have passed along some exciting news: Sometime in the October/November timeframe we should start seeing Rittenhouse 21 year old in NYC. Brian from Pegu Club was able to try some of it during a recent trip down South, and he told me it was outstanding. I can hardly wait.

  3. The NY Times reports today that Brown-Forman, the liquor company known for brands such as Jack Daniel's, Southern Comfort, Finlandia and Canadian Mist, will acquire Mexican tequila company Casa Herradura for $876 million. Following this sale, only top-seller Jose Cuervo among the three largest tequila makers will remain Mexican-owned (Sauza, the #2 company, is owned by Fortune Brands).

    The deal gives Brown-Forman two brands, Herradura and El Jimador, which are among the best-selling tequilas in Mexico, but which lag in the fast-growing market for tequila in the United States.

    "We think we can do a better job with wider distribution," said Phil Lynch, a spokesman for Brown-Forman in Louisville. "We will have more resources to build the brands."

    Rafael Obregón, chief executive of Casa Herradura, which is based in Guadalajara, said in a news release that the company expected the deal "to grow our brands in the global spirits market."

  4. Here's another tidbit I got from a friend that you can pass along to your liquor store and bartender friends regarding Laird's Apple Bond in NYC:

    Paramount's item number for Laird's Bonded 100 proof is #825200. It is not listed as "Bonded" in the system or the book, only as "Lairds Apple Brandy 100 proof."

  5. Although the two pans seem to be the same size and shape, I find it very interesting that the MC2 pan is called the "Ultimate Covered Sauce Pan" and the Stainless pan is called the "Ultimate Sauté Pot."

    The Macy's links you provide don't give any dimensions so it's hard to say exactly, but the pictures sure look a lot more like sauce pans than they do sauté pans. The sides appear to be too high, and the cooking surface too small, for them to be particularly useful at sautéing. I also find it extremely strange that the Stainless pan is over a hundred dollars less expensive than the MC2 pan. Stainless is usually a good bit more expensive.

    In general, MC2 and LTD will provide better performance than Stainless. This is because these two lines have a thicker layer of aluminum compared to the fully clad Stainless line. More aluminum means better performance. IMO, the MC2 line is All-Clad's best line, because it has the thickest layer of aluminum and you aren't paying extra for the hard-to-clean anodized exterior on the LTD line (MC2 is All-Clad's least expensive line).

    lorea, I'm not sure what you're looking for a pan to do. Why would you want this pan? If you're looking for a sauté pan, I think you can do a lot better than this particular shape, and I think you could do a lot better on price. You could get a Sitram sauté pan with a thick disk bottom on amazon.com for around half of what Macy's is charging for the All-Clad "Stainless Ultimate Sauté Pot." The Sitram pan would, in my opinion, be better for sautéing. Then again, very few home cooks actually use a sauté pan.

    As for saucepan functionality... it is very rarely worth the money for a home cook to have a fully clad six quart sauce pan. A lot of people end up spending big bucks on All-Clad saucepans that end up being massive overkill because they're mostly using them to boil water, steam vegetables, make soup, etc. Six quarts is a lot of sauce.

    What is is that you would like to do in the kitchen that you feel you currently cannot do well with the cookware you currently own?

  6. More info as it comes in:

    The official opening date is Monday, August 29th,  2005.

    Tomorrow marks one year since Pegu Club's official opening. Congratulations to Audrey and everyone else on the team.

  7. Thanks for the info, phlip.

    There are several meanings of the word "tea" and I wonder if there isn't a small confusion of terms here. Tea can mean not only refer to the tea bush Camellia sinensis and a beverage made from its leaves, buds, etc., but can also refer to beverages made in a similar manner using other herbs, buds, flowers, whatever. We might refer to these preparations loosely as "herbal teas." When I think of tea-infused-liquor for the purposes of this discussion, I'm specifically thinking of liquor that has been infused with tea leaves. As I noted above, tea leaf infusions have the somewhat unique challenge of tannin. Something like hibiscus-infused syrup I would consider a herb-infusion rather than a tea-infusion, despite the fact that we call hibiscus flowers steeped in water "hibiscus tea."

    Phlip: do you know whether the jasmine-infused gin used in the cocktail at Pegu is infused with jasmine flowers or whether it is infused with jasmine tea consisting of (usually) green tea that has been perfumed with jasmine flowers?

  8. You may be right about not getting a hangover from the organic vodka, because it doesn't have as many impurities due to the organic process.

    No, in fact this wouldn't be right.

    First of all this entire "impurities" idea is based on the premise (largely promoted by vodka makers) that hangovers come substantially from exposure to congeners (vodka is low in congeners). This is a mistaken premise. Yes, there is some evidence that high levels of congeners can contribute to the headache portion of a hangover, but there are many aspects to a hangover and many root causes of those aspects.

    Second, given the nature of the distilling, rectification and filtration process that goes into making vodka, I am quite sure that there is no chemical difference between "organic" vodka and "regular" vodka out of the still.* According to the sense in which "impurities" is used with respect to vodka, it would be easy to make a "not organic" vodka that had substantially fewer impurities than an "organic" vodka.

    * This is why I think the idea of an "organic" vodka is silly if you're concerned about the product itself. If you're more concerned with the environmental impact of standard agricultural practices, there may be some point to buying "organic" vodka. Although, personally, if that's the reason I'm buying a certain liquor, I hope someone comes up with a "sustainable agriculture" vodka soon. The point is, though, that there would still be no difference in the bottle.

  9. The only real tea cocktail I've had is the Earl Gray MarTEAni, and tannin is fairly prominent in that one (albeit tempered by the egg whites). I'm interested to hear the extent to which tannin is present in other tea-infused-liquor cocktails. I'm not surprised, for example, to hear of more green tea-infused-liquor cocktails than black tea-infused-liquor cocktails, because green tea is substantially lower in tannin.

  10. . . .cocktail recipes often call for only for 1/2 egg white.  I hate it when I end up throwing away the yolk and the other half of the egg.

    I've always wondered about that "half an egg white" and it never made much sense to me, unless you're making a drink with only 2 ounces or ingredients or something. Modern recipes (or old recipes reworked for modern usage) may call for a half an egg white because the standard size today seems to be extra large to jumbo, whereas the old recipes most likely were calling for the white of a medium egg. One way to avoid waste is to use medium eggs and keep the egg yolks in a container in the freezer. When you have enough yolks, let them thaw out and then make creme anglaise, egg yolk pasta, whatever.

  11. http://www.nytimes.com/aponline/us/AP-Oldest-Bartender.html

    I thought this was a nice article. Hoy Wong has been bartending for almost 60 years.

    Wong, or Mr. Hoy, as he is known, has been working as a bartender for 58 years. Unless another candidate steps forward, his bosses seem safe in calling him the city's oldest bartender.

    ''He never misses a day,'' said Bill Liles, the Algonquin's general manager. ''If the weather's bad he shows up early. It's just really an honor to work with someone like Mr. Hoy.''

    Wong's birthday is Wednesday but the Algonquin is getting a jump on the festivities by holding a party for some 350 of his friends and admirers on Tuesday in the hotel's Oak Room.

  12. As I posted earlier, Eber Brothers/Paramount Brands is now bringing Laird's Apple Bond into NYC. Let's see what we can do to get liquor stores to start carrying it. They first brought in four cases, which have all been sold to the business. We should start making our favorite stores aware of Laird's Apple Bond's availability and asking them to get some in stock. Make sure they understand that it's not the 7.5 or 12 year old brandy you're talking about. You want the 100 proof bonded product.

    So... let's get something started in NYC! I'm willing to bet that if 4-5 people ask the liquor manager at Astor Wines to get in some Laird's Apple Bond, they'll start stocking it. Let's ask our favorite shops in NYC to stock Laird's Apple Bond and post about it here when we ask. I'm going to ask Astor Wines the next time I'm down there.

  13. I’d love to be able to show you some photos of Fairway but they go completely psycho if you take photos in there.

    Exactly! I've thought about taking some Fairway pictures for the various foodblogs I've done, but managed to restrain myself by imagining a headline in the Post that said, "Stupid Foodie Beaten to Death by 80 Year Old Jewish Ladies in 74th Street Fairway." It's hard enough to elbow those senior citizens out of the way when I'm reaching for a number at the appetizing counter, never mind standing around trying to frame a shot.

  14. Jason brought this Smirnoff video to our attention. It's an interesting example of an attempt to promote a liquor through viral marketing. Viral marketing is a relatively new advertising technique whereby marketers seek to spread awareness and increase interest in a product via word-of-mouth by associating the product with an interesting piece of content that people will talk about and share with one another. The most noteworthy example of viral marketing today is probably the "Snakes on a Plane" movie. Liquor may prove to be a particularly good match for viral marketing because new premium liquors -- and this is especially true of vodkas -- are often valued because of perceived prestige, which is largely created by word-of-mouth. In a way, having a celebrity bartender create a special cocktail featuring a certain liquor could be seen as an example of viral marketing. If the cocktail takes off, or if the liquor is able to associate itself with a currently popular cocktail phenomenon (as Bacardi is trying to do with the Mojito), it increases the presence and perceived value of the brand.

    Ed Hamilton asked the important question:

    The question Diageo is asking is does this video make you want to drink Smirnoff?

    So... what do we think of this. The Tea Partay video is amusing, on that we largely agree. Many of us may share the links with a friend or two. But, do we think it's a successful marketing strategy? Does this video make us more likely to try the new Smirnoff product? Does it succeed with any of us in associating itself with the image of the whitebread old-moneyed Martha's Vinyard set?

  15. On the other hand, if someone opened a real Oaxacan restaurant in NY...everyone would be demanding table-side guac and wondering why none of the moles were familiar.

    Of course, guacamole is also a mole. :wink:

    FWIW, I've had a pretty good Oaxacan pipian in a few NYC restaurants.

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