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slkinsey

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by slkinsey

  1. Interesting. What was the thinking behing infusing the star anise in only 1/2 ounce of gin instead of the whole 2 opunces? Seems like you could put the 2 ounces of gin in the shaker with the star anise, wait 2-3 minutes, add the other stuff, put in the ice, shake and then double-strain into the glass.

  2. I don't think that M&H does much "pre-screening." So they're not "selective" in that sense. That's supposed to be taken care of by their unlisted number/reservations system where they ask that you not pass along the number to anyone you wouldn't be comfortable having alone in your apartment for a weekend. Of course, the number eventually reaches wider distribution and a few jerks publish the number either in print or online, etc. This leads to some dilution of their target demographic. After a while, enough is enough and the number has to change (as it recently did). I will say, however, that I have been there when people have been asked to leave. I should hasten to point out that this is what makes it such a great place for more mature parties of two or three.

  3. Hi Paul. I am not aware of any such pan, but I think you will find that a rack should provide sufficient elevation for all the air circulation you might desire in your existing roasting pan. One great advantage is that a roasting rack costs a lot less than a new roasting pan. :smile:

    I highly recommend roasting racks that are coated with a nonstick surface for ease of cleaning. That said, a liberal application of oven cleaner overnight works well on regular stainless roasting racks.

  4. There's really not much point in spending big bucks on high performance cookware for an electric stove. The evenness of the heat source should take care of itself, and the slowness with which the heat source responds to changes in the heat setting will mitigate any advantages in responsivity.

    I'd say you have the right idea in your last paragraph: Wait until you have the induction stove, buy a piece of each and see how they perform against each other. There's no reason to have everything all from the same brand. In general, if you're going to lay out big bucks on an induction stove, it seems a bit silly to buy cookware based on how you think it would perform over gas. If you decide to replace the induction with gas, the cost of a few pots and pans will be the least of your worries (Mauviel Induc'Inox will be far from useless over gas anyway and, no, I wouldn't expect hot spots).

  5. Milk & Honey is out for a group of that size. All the more because it's a weekend, and they do many things that would tend to make it less fun for the "twentysomething girls out for a fun/rowdy night on the town" demographic (they're very particular about restrained decorum and that sort of thing). But Flatiron is definitely a place that does a good mix of "cool scene for younger people" and great cocktails on the weekends.

  6. Buckethead, I'm not sure I entirely follow your logic on using copper. Given the way induction works, why wouldn't you want cookware where the thermal material can be directly acted upon by magnetics? In particular, my mind goes to Mauviel's Induc'Inox line, which I have mentioned previously on this thread. It is a fully stainless-clad, straight gauge design with a 2 mm thermal core of magnetic carbon steel. Given the way induction works, carbon steel should be plenty responsive, and I think it makes sense that the induction hob acts directly on the thermal core. This is what I'd be likely to buy if I were to switch to induction.

  7. My first thought is that strawberry and basil isn't exactly a match made in heaven, so that might be a bit of a nonstarter.

    My second thought is that, if your friend wants a gin cocktail with which he is not familiar, there are plenty of tried-and-true gin drinks that, while perhaps familiar to the cocktailian community, aren't exactly well-known.

    There's the Pegu Club, for example: gin, orange curaçao, fresh lime, orange bitters, Angostura biters. Or, if that's too familiar, how about the San Martin: gin, red vermouth, yellow Chartreuse.

  8. your options open up if you're willing to forgo the dancing part (NY has a tough "cabaret license" regime which limits the number of places where dancing is allowed)

    Exactly.

    The bad news is that the dance nightclub scene in Manhattan is absolutely horriffic, unless you're into swing dancing or something (in which case, check out Swing 46).

    The good news is that, if you're not married to dancing, New York City is the international capital of cocktail culture and offers several of the best cocktail bars in the world.

    Unfortunately, the bad news for you may be that your companions may be more into clubbing and dancing than a decent drink. :smile:

  9. Gordon, I think you'll have a difficult time finding any place in Manhattan that does "bottle service" (i.e., charging a 1000% markup to sell you a whole frozen bottle of Grey Goose at your table) that: a) you will be able to get into (and I say this with no offense intended, as I couldn't get in either), and b) isn't overrun with B&T guidos.

  10. WRT the "new restaurant crowd" and whether they are often comprised of B&T types... I think a lot of it depends on the restaurant. I don't think a lot of B&Ters were going to Landmarc after it opened, nor were there likely many at ADNY. However, there certainly does seem to be an archetypical person found in some concentration at Manhattan restaurants of a certain kind (places like Spice Market and Buddakan) in the opening months, along with what I might call members of the "executive assistants by day, would-be scenesters by night" demographic.

    I've certainly observed an increased B&T quotient at, say, Pegu Club every time a mention runs in Time Out or New York Magazine.

  11. What exactly do you have in mind for a "night club?" Are we talking about a luxe cocktails lounge like Pegu or Flatiron, or one of the Chelsea B&T dance clubs?

    Others may know better, but I'd say that any place in the Times Square area will be very tourist-oriented.

  12. Of the current four-star restaurants, Per Se is the only one planning for a Cuba after Fidel Castro.  "Legacy" is one of its eleven core values.

    That's a nice idea and all, and I suppose we're meant to think they're such genii at Per Se and French Laundry that they'll come up with a brilliant strategy to make this happen. But these restaurants are so strongly identified with "the genius of Thomas" that I have a very hard time imagining how these restaurants will persist at anywhere near their current level after the eventual departure of Keller. This has nothing to do with how good they may continue to be, mind you, but everything to do with economics and perception. To continue your analogy, even if there were a plan for a Cuba without Castro (and there is no reason to suppose one doesn't exist), the smart money would still be on chaos down there once he dies.

  13. Wayne Curtis, in And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails, seems to doubt that it came from the Planter's Hotel in St. Louis. He notes that, while the claim isn't entirely implausible due to the connection to Jerry Thomas, the fact that the hotel also takes credit for the Tom Collins weakens their claim. And, while JT's book features plenty of punch recipes, none is named "Planter's Punch"). He notes that a Planter's Hotel in South Carolina also claims credit for the drink, and further notes that there hardly seems to be (nor has there ever seemed to be) a standard classic recipe for the drink. Curtis seems to lean in the direction of supposing that the name and concept, if not a definitive recipe, probably came from Jamaica, but that really no one establishment or person can claim sole credit.

  14. "Acidity" and "free fatty acid content" in cooking oils are, AFAIK, the same. Filtering removes solids, etc. Refining is a chemical treatment to neutralize tastes and free fatty acid content. Extra Virgin and Virgin oils may be filtered, but they may not be refined. So, a high quality extra virgin olive oil with low acidity comes by this low free fatty acid content naturally.

  15. ditto for the aftermatch of WWII.  (by way of comparison, the two great eras for cocktail development were Prohibition and post-WWII (although WW II was also perniciously responsible for vodka consumption in the U.S.)

    I'm not sure this comparison carries. Although it is getting somewhat off the topic, despite the popular identification in this country of prohibition with cocktail culture, this was most decidedly not a great time of cocktail development -- unless by "development" you mean "drastic loss of complexity, variety and tradition combined with a major exodus of mixological talent and expertise." In general, I'd say that Prohibition was the beginning of a great slide in the mixological arts, which depression has only begun to turn around in relatively recent times (I don't view things like the Highball as much of a development).

  16. According to the chart, it's the higher quality (i.e., lower acidity) extra virgin olive oils that have a higher smoke point -- around 405F. I'd think that some of the higher quality ones are actually lower than that, though, because they are often unfiltered, etc.

    It's not really a huge surprise that highly filtered olive oil (aka "extra light") has a smoke point that's higher than the smoke point of oils commonly held to have a high smoke point, especially when in their unrefined state. In general, as oils are refined the flavor is diminished and the smoke point goes up. This is to say that extra light olive oil does have a very high smoke point, but also has zero olive flavor (which may not be all bad, depending on one's perspective).

    I'm not sure I agree with you about the importance of smoke point for the home cook. If one assumes that the lower smoke point is true for most lower quality extra virgin olive oils, which are presumably the only ones that are affordable enough to use for deep-frying, then this can be a serious limitation. I wouldn't want to deep fry fritto misto di pesce at 320F, and I have to believe that deep-frying at 380F would result in off-flavors.

  17. Re the frying qualities of various oils, there's a handy smoke point chart on Wikipedia.

    Extra virgin olive oil has a relatively low smoke point, of 320F. This is lower than most people like to fry, although there are people who do deep fry in extra virgin olive oil (Batali used to do this on his television shows). Virgin olive oil, which still has plenty of olive flavor in the context of frying, will get you up to 420F -- plenty high enough for frying.

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