skchai
-
Posts
1,038 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Store
Help Articles
Posts posted by skchai
-
-
Vikram may be too modest to mention this, but he has written an excellent article about Konkani Cuisine for Outlook Traveller. Take a look:
Moveable Feast: The Konkan Comeback
P.S. Vikram I hope you don't mind me posting this!
-
Karen,
I've read about Il Fresco, and how much it's missed, as well as Nevin's new setup at the Academy of Arts. It's had very good reviews. In fact just last Sunday we were at Academy with the kids for the Korean Family Day and were looking forward to eating at the Pavilion Cafe. Unfortunately, the seems to be closed on Sundays! If you still keep in touch with Nevin, perhaps you could ask him why - if other than religious reasons. That's probably one of the Academy's biggest business days, and when they hold many of their special events. If the Cafe could close on Mondays and Tuesdays instead. . .
Meanwhile, after being denied, we walked across the street to Thomas Square, where they were having the Annual PowWow, and had ourselves some frybread tacos under the banyon trees. But that's another story. . .
But I admit I'm a bit confused. Some people might even place Nevin's cuisine at the Pavillion Cafe in the HRC category, since it has that East-West influence (albeit with a Mediterranean emphasis) and uses locally sourced ingredients. How would you differentiate it from HRC? Are you saying that HRC consists only of the celebrity chefs such as Wong, Yamaguchi, et al.? Or the original 12 chefs who incorporated the group?
-
Rachel, I'll give it a shot, though since I have few if any of the statistics at hand I may be among the least qualified people to be talking about this. My unformed impression is certainly that the obesity rate is extremely high in the islands, especially among men, but not nearly as much among women. This does some to be in part a aesthetic-cultural issue, since the popular "moke" image for men blends a macho stereotype with one that emphasizes a relaxed, easygoing nature - this seems to be condusive to seeing large, though not necessarily trim, body as fitting an ideal image of the local male.
But certainly more than this are the structural forces that have been mentioned: (1) the importatation of large amounts of high-fat processed foods into the islands during the planatation era, and the subsequent development of tastes for those foods, (2) the rather sudden transition from a plantation economy requiring high calorie consumption for laborers to a sedentary service-oriented economy, without corresponding changes in consumption habits, and (3) until, recently, the surprising lack of variety and expense of fresh fruits and vegetables on Oahu (something you pointed out very well in your book).
In relation to this, I'd like to pose the following question to KarenS: I realize that you have reasons to criticize HRC, and I agree with some of them. HRC has priced itself out of the budget of most local people, and the connection with local cuisine is often more in name than in reality.
However, HRC has also been the leading force in bringing about a revolution in local agriculture, with a major emphasis on fresh fruits and vegetables. Local vegetable growers such as `Nalo Farms and Wailea Ag have made a living largely due to demand from HRC restaurants. Moreover, HRC dishes, with their emphasis on lightness, tend to be lower in calories than the typical plate lunch version of local cuisine. Indeed, with the exception of Zippy's Shintani Cuisine, the only plate lunch places that have done much to emphasize healthier alternatives are those (Kaka`ako Kitchen and Onjin's) that are closely allied to HRC.
So perhaps we should give HRC a break, at least from the point of view of the health angle. While it still needs to provide a version of its cuisine that is more accessible to the local people's budgets and tastes, you certainly can't accuse them of being behind the unhealthy diets that local people often consume.
Looking forward to your stinging response!
-
I also became involved at "Kapolani Community College's', wonderfull program of teaching developedly disabled youth or young adults in training them for suitable positions of employment in the Service Industy.
My most redeeming contribution was proving that by taking the time and effort to provide a type of apprentice program would become beneficial to all involved. This was so successfull that many of our local youths succeeded to the top of the profession at various Island Operations, even to Executive Chef or as Multi-unit Operation Principals. I've always felt that the best was right in Hawaii, and personel imports were more difficult, expensive nor rarely remained long enough to benefit the community.
All I have to do is open any 'Islands Guide Book", and look at the various Hotel and Restaurant operations Reviewed to know that my efforts were beneficial to the community. I wish there was some way that I could return, as in many way's I feel that Oahu is home. It's surprising that almost everywhere i've visited in the mainland, i've come across people who got started in the food business in Hawaii, and are so successfull where ever they've wound up. It seems like Hawaii's exporting something more important then 'pineapples". Irwin
It's certaintly no exaggeration that KCC, and more recently, the other community colleges, have been the vital force in bringing forward many of our current top chefs. Alan Wong is probably the most illustrious of the KCC graduates, but there are many more who are working in top positions at all the hotels and stand-along restaurants both here and on the mainland. Given that we don't have much in the way of fancy private culinary academies here, the community colleges have been the unsung heroes in making HRC a reality. Kudoes to you for your part in setting up this (as well as so much else).
We'd love to have you back here in the islands. Unfortunately I have zero connections in the local food industry. But it would seem that your experience and knowledge would make you invaluable as a consultant or partner in new openings, as much of what is lacking in the current HRC movement is a knowledge of its history. Anyone one in this forum have any ideas about how we can bring Irwin home?
-
The "Papya King", was opened at the Ala Moana Mall entrance to the "Foodland", a tenant of "Maurice Sullivan". It had the same tropical drinks varieties as NYC, prepared from the same formulas and recipes. The Hot Dogs and Griddles were also authentic. I really enjoyed the ,Papaya, Pina Colada, Coconut as well as the Fresh Squeezed Orange Juice, but somehow it wasn't able to sustain the volume of sales, nor given enough time for the drinks to become accepted. I have always been surprised that theres not been anyone developing inti the niche market for such refreshing tropical beverages.
There is still what I consider a "Hawaiian Style", Chinese Restaurant in Seattle. [similar dishes to McCully Chop Suey"], called "Tai Tung".
I'm surprised that the "Fried Chicken Wings", featured in local, Korean Bars haven't become popular. They sure are better then Buffalo Wings. Also , "PuPu's", are more fun then the stylish,"Tapa's". No one prepares better fusion Bar Snacks, then those served in allt he Islands. Irwin
Kimo, it's only been a short time since Washington Saimin closed, so I don't think there are any plans to reopen it for now. . .
Irwin, it may have been that the Papaya King concept was ahead of its time, at least for the local community. More recently, the Jamba Juice chain, which sells a variety of fruit smoothies and drinks as "health boosters", has opened several branches in the islands and seems to have been quite successful - somehow they always seem to be situated next to or near a Starbucks. Not sure of the reason for this.
One tricky proposition is that the selling of hot dogs and tropical drinks may have been puzzling to people who tend to view the former as "junk food" and the latter as "healthy alternatives". Another problem may have been that the concept might have worked better in Waikiki with the tourists than in Ala Moana, since hot dogs have never been a huge fast food item in the Islands, except at ballgames, picnics - even there they are increasingly being superceded by the Spam musubi and its many variations.
McCully Chop Sui is still going strong - lots of loyal customers, including many of my UH colleagues, still go there regularly. Of the other Chop Sui houses, Manoa Chop Sui closed down long ago and is now (argh) a Starbucks.
Regarding the "Fried Chicken Wings". I guess I don't have much experience at Korean-style bars (hehe), but are you referring to the crisp marinated wings that are often now sold on plate lunch menus as "korean chicken"?
In general, I agree with you that Hawai`i probably has a range and quality of finger and snack foods far suppassing just about anywhere in the world, as well as culture that places a high value on providing these foods on an everyday basis. Scholars who come from the mainland to the UH for one of our dept. colloquia or informal panels are shocked that instead of expected bottled water and / or chips n' salsa, we regularly present huge trays of crispy gau gee, manapua, meat sticks, chicken katsu, fried noodles, several kinds of mochi, etc. etc. People here would be disappointed with anything less.
-
At some point (I think the Korean section), someone is taking an order for a plate lunch and asks what two vegetables the customer wants. The customer says "two mac salads". Order taker "no, vegetables". Customer: "but those are my vegetables".
That's pretty telling. Originally, then the Korean restauranters such as Ted's and Kim Chee's tried to pioneer the Korean plate lunch, they offered the typical Korean side dishes such as various kim chis and namuls (unfermented veggie salads). They soon found that the local customer, while finding these veggie alternatives tasty for the most part, wanted something more in line with the mac salad, etc. that they had been receiving before. So now, it's typical that you can choose your threeside dishes at a place like Yummy's without encountering more than a smidgen of vegetable - you can go for mac salad, longrice (like Korean chapchae, but with most of the vegetables absent), and shoyu-stewed potatoes if you like. However, it's a sign of progress that most people don't go that far in avoiding vegetables. . .
-
skChai: How nice to see postings about the ,"Maple Garden", it's good to know that they are still doing well. My 2 Chinese partners and I were glad to have found plus instigated their choice of location plus assisting in licensing and lease arrangements. When the started business the location wasn't considered appropiate for a Asian or any type of Restaurant, but we were convinced that with the community evolution it would become a favorite.
Just came across some information that refers to this posting subject. The unique addition of "Tuna", to "Macaroni Salad", started during the second World War when the Plate Lunch and Sandwich Providers for Pearl Harbor and other military connected activities had very limited choice of sandwich fillers, or side dishes. Since there was plenty of Macaroni available, plus Mayo, they had limited amounts of Canned Tuna, plus Caught local Aku and other fishes they incorperated this with the Macaroni Salad to encourage the workers to enjoy eating the salad. There wasn't that many things available. Eggs, Balonga, Lunch Meat, Spam Etc. Since many of these Caterers didn't have a Meat Slicer they implemented the special popular until today. "Hawaiian Thick Slice", that was because since everything had to be cut by hand with a was much easier to mass produce sandwiches using just one thicker knife slice for the Meat items.
It was funny because after I leaned about this Thick Slice popularity I recommended it to several Lunch wagon operators and drive inns who had been using pre sliced meats. They became the Wagons, that the construction workers waited for, because all the other wagons served the presliced sandwiches and there's were cut thicker. Even the Drive Inns sandwich sales increased. Irwin
Irwin,
Rachel and I have been marvelling at how you seemed to have been everywhere and done everything there was to do in the Hawai`i restaurant scene during that period. Maple Garden is definitely doing very well - it regularly appears at the top or near the top of reader's polls for the favorite mid-priced Chinese in the Hawai`i. It is true that the location is not the most visible place - unless you are headed down Isenberg to go to Stadium Bowl or something - but once word of mouth got around there's been no end to its popularity. Nearly every time we go there we have to find street parking because the (albeit small) parking lot is completely full. They're really strong on the kind of robust cookery that locals like, at reasonable prices. My late father's favorite dishes were Spicy Garlic Chicken, Chinaman's Hat (like Mushu Pork), Squid with Beef, and Spicy Eggplant. He always ordered more or less the same thing, and even when he was suffering from cancer he still wanted to eat there one more time, so we would go there to get takeout. We haven't been back nearly as much since he passed away but hope return again soon.
Your history about the insertion of tuna into macaroni salad is an interesting part of local culinary history. Why do you think, then, that most contemporary versions of mac salad lack the tuna. Usually the only ingredients other than mayo and mac nowadays are typically a smidgen of onion and a few thinly sliced carrots. Perhaps once it got established as a menu item, plate lunch sellers decided it wasn't worth the extra cost of putting in fish. I dunno if it would be possible to revive this tradition: "poke-mac" salad?
The origin of the "thick" slice is also very interesting, since even today sellers of spam musubi are expected to provide sliced of at least 1/4" and usually closer to 1/2" in order to generate the "real thing". Likewise if you go to an okazu-type delicatessan, it is rare to find fillings that are thinly sliced or processed. I always thought that it was a way of saving labor, but as you point out, it may have become a cultural expectation as well, not to mention your own personal involvement.
Please, keep these nuggets of Hawai`i's culinary history coming. Irwin.
Mahalo!
-
Sorry, SK - I'm a bit intimidated by your last post. I can't come up with any ethno-botanical-anthropological analysis today - but here are some random foods I have been thinking about or craving this week and tonight - hoping that it will get us going again.
Tad - I found your reply a lot more intimidating than my original post! All the things that you're looking to have on your plate boggle the mind. Thanks also for providing the expanations for all the terms - it's essential for the kind of cross-fertilization of ideas that we're hoping for in this kind of forum.
I was thinking about something much more modest -
For instance, when I make Korean Kalbi, I often put more sugar in it than most Koreans could bear - that's just more "teriyaki-style" what I'm used to. If it's tough meat, I may put a couple of slices of green papaya in it to tenderize it - something that you still can't really obtain in Korea except for high-class deparatment stores. It's not an attempt at fusion but just an attempt to adapt to local tastes (which I guess I have just as much as anyone else).
I have made Kung Pao chicken with Macademia nuts instead of peanuts quite often. O.K. it actually makes it a lot more expensive - but I'm more likely to have mac nuts available in my pantry than peanuts, since we stockpile everytime Longs or Daiei has a sale on it. And it tastes good as well.
When I make instant ramen (plain old Sapporo Ichiban), I may add spam, hot dogs, lup cheong, etc. to the usual mix, so as to "saiminize" it. I'll even substitute the powdered soup with Swanson's beef broth - if its' beef flavor of liquid dashi-no-moto otherwise. If I'm in a weird mood, I may substitute coconut milk with a little store-bought Thai curry paste to make a travesty of "laksa".
Obviously, none of this is great food. Arguably each "innovation" is a step down (or many steps down) from the original dish I'm adapting. But I'm just saying that this is the way that a lot of Hawai`i's hybrid dishes got started - before they got fancied up to HRC.
Sun-Ki
-
The weekly update from the Star-Bulletin:
BY REQUEST: Mochi Duck is a challenge to recreate, by Betty Shimabukuro
HAWAII'S KITCHEN: Caviar garnishes scallop dish
ELECTRIC KITCHEN: Ahi returns to spotlight
From the Advertiser:
FOOD FOR THOUGHT: Rehab's `ohana shares recipes, tidbits, by Wanda A. Adams
"Celebrity" (Neil Abercrombie's mom, Peter Canlis) recipes from the hospital's cookbook
QUICK BITES: Festival of food, by Wanda A. Adams
Food & Wine Festival of the Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hotel features chefs from Hong Kong and Thailand, Oktoberfest at the Ala Moana Hotel, Dvorak's Shrimp Shack reopens at Kaya's Market, David Paul extends his kama`aina two-for-one discount
To fill things out, some recent restaurant reviews from the papers:
Chef Kiyoshi plating for peace at Youme.n restaurant, by Nadine Kam
Chocolate casts its magic spell at Enchanted Lake shop (Chocolate Sushi), by Nadine Kam
Japanese-style bar Nonbei serves a tasty menu, by Matthew Gray
"Niniku-Ya" The Garlic Restaurant, by Rae Gee
Also, in case anyone missed it, this bad news:
-
SkChai: Thank you for your response. To me if and when there is no longer a "International Marketplace", Honolulu will lose the only remaining artifact of Island character in Waikiki. I'm aware of the "Kelly's', intention of rejuvenating the area around where the," Reef Hotel", is located. But this or any other project or so called improvement will not have a positive effect on the community. It appears to me that in the years to come, the only locals except for employees, who will be spending time in Waikiki will be visitors.
Again, you're right that the renovation seems to be going against the movement to attract locals back to Waikiki. At any rate, it seems a lost cause unless they deal with the shortage of reasonably priced restaurants that appeal to local people and, more than anything else, the parking problem.
Here, by the way, is the proper link for the article on the International Market Place renovation. I put an extraneous tag in it last time.
I was also involved initially in the "China House", restaurant at Ala Moana Center, Honolulu's first restaurant to serve "Dim Sum", is it still operating. I'm proud of how successfull so many of my protoges have become since i've left the Islands. My former partner still resides in Oahu. I wouldn't be adverse from being involved again in a restaurant on Oahu, since so many former customers would welcome us back. All my children graduated from UH.I'm curious if my friends and author of my favorite Chinese Cookbook are still involved with UH. Flora L. Chang and her husband, who was a Professor. She co-authored "Five Treasures of Chinese Cusine", with Gaynell M. Fuchs.
I've been to China House restaurant quite a few times. It's always a great place for local Chinese favorites such as Cake Noodles with various stir-fries on top. Naturally, it would be great to have you back here in the restaurant business - we need people here like yourself who carry the history of the cuisine with you.
I'm not certain if Flora L. Chang's husband is still associated with UH. You you happen to know his name and / or department? I could then look him up.
My two favorite foods I understand are very rare or unavailable."Samoan Crab'
"Hawaiian Red Shrimps or Prawns", were originally, caught in traps from the boat "Easy Rider". The sweetest and best tasting ocean shellfish.
You're right they're quite rare. In fact, I haven't had the privilege of tasting either in my life! Most of the prawns sold here in high-level restaurants are the "Kahuku Prawns" which are farmed locally, not ocean-caught.
I used to enjoy "Trader Vic's", company he was a authentic character. I used to get him fresh boneless shin beef, from the Oahu Market, from Big Island Range Beef that he'd make into numerous dishes at his home near to "Hawaii Kai". He had a interesting manner, sort of okay i'm here and now i'm in charge that somehow never offended anyone. Very nice person. He always dressed in his own trader style. I've still got one of his Hat's that I'd complimented him abou, so he honored me by presenting it to me in exchange for a "Calfs Liver", from the market. We had a write up on Friday in the "whats Happening', section of the 'Seattle Post-Intelligencer", Newpaper, about a new Seattle Restaurant, called the "Islander Polynesian Cusine", with the, "Tiki Lounge". The reviewer coundn't decide if it's eleganty Kitschy or Kitschy elegant. It should be available on the internet. IrwinHere's a cite for the Post-Intelligencer article you mentioned:
Pacifically speaking: The Islander menu roams the South Seas
Interesting that someone would be opening up a Tiki-style restaurant in Seattle in this current day and age. But on the other hand, many of the Trader Vic's around the world are still doing well.
-
Just returned this early morning from Molokai and Oahu. I went to Rainbow Drive-Inn, my favorite post-surfing place to eat--stayed at the Moana and watched the surfers at my fave spot, Canoes...can't surf for another six months (until I stop being pregnant). At 11:20 a.m. there were at least 14 people in line and a line of cars waiting to park in the lot. If there are a lot of surfers and construction workers in line at a plate lunch place, that is a good sign. All of the construction workers were on their lunch break. I had the teri beef/mahimahi/fried chicken combo with two scoops rice and a mac salad. Not the local girl thing to do...I smothered my plate with ketchup and shoyu (soy sauce). Not much to report on the Oahu food scene (I was there for only one night and visited with family and friends). However, no matter what you do on the mainland (i.e. L&L opening all over the country), the plate lunches are still the best while in Hawaii (there's something about dining outside in 80 degree weather near the beach).
Great report, Kimo. How do you compare Rainbow's to the way it was last time you came. Still keeping up the quality? Hope you had a good trip.
-
Well, its along story....Starting with the Gardena Bowling alley and ending with TnT cafe....Gardena Bowl is legend for the best Hawaiian food and portugese sausage around, its been around since the begining of time and is packed with second and third generation Japanese Americans and lots of Hawaiian's. It was run by a family for a long time and was the only place around, then some younger bruddah's opened up "the loft" in Gardena which served the basic hawaiian food....great Teri, plate lunches and Loco Moco...the owners got into a dispute and split off to open 3 different places.."The Loft", "Island Grinds" and "Back Home in Laheina". Those places have all done well....The original family that ran Gardena Bowl decided it was time to retire and sold the place to a guy named Hedeki that owns "Azuma", a very popular hole in the wall "ozakaya" place popular with Japanese executives from nearby Honda and Nissan HQ's. Well the original Gardena Bowl owners got bored in retirement and opened up TnT cafe in south Torrance....Same great Gardena Bowl food, much smaller place...really hard to find but good stuff...Great teri beef and spam plate lunch...
Hope that helps..if not enough I wrote columns for Azuma and Gardena bowl for my paper...they are both on my web site if you want to check them out..there are maps to the places as well!
Thanks, Chris, I'll definitely check out your site.
-
Mamster: Having worked on a survey about Plate Lunches, and especially the evolution of Hawaiian Stle Macaroni Salad. The Way the Macaroni Sald evolved was that the original purvayors of the Popular Plate lunches served all over the Islands, was something that started by the Okinawan Community. This was a method of preparing a cold salad type scooped treat, that was provided together with the 2 scoops of Rice. To make the Macaroni more palatable to local tastes some canned, locally packed chunk type tuna was added to the Macaroni salad, this is still generally done, with some places adding some chopped celery, shredded carrots or even peas, with the salad or elbow macaroni and mayonnase. Many Lunch Wagon vendors often purchased their hot daily specials from Caterers who provided the entrees, such as 'Brisket Stew. Oxtail Stew, Various Teriyaki's, Mahi-Mahi, Lau Lau, Bitter Melon, Salisbury Steak, Ham Hocks, Meatballs and Spaghetti, Beef Stew, Kalua Pig and Cabbage, Short Ribs, Spare Ribs and many other favorites. Most items had some type of Gravy or Sauce, and everything was served with 2 scoops of rice and macaroni salad. Irwin
So that's how it happened. Always wondered! Thanks again.
-
SKChai, Rachel and Kimo: The way the 'Washington Saimin", became involved was that the owner of the original, "McDonald's" Franchise for the Hawaiian Islands, where the highest grossing McDonalds stores, during that time frame were located, due to 12 months steady high volumes wanted to serve "Saimin", and his personal favorite was the "Washington Samin". He also was the owner of the 'Foodland Supermarkets". Since he had the clout, and it added up to a interesting concept, McDonalds was willing to try. At the same time we were able to push for Portugese Sausages to be included with the then new breakfast concept.
So that's how it happened. . . I didn't even realize that Maurice Sullivan (late Foodland owner) was also the first owner of the local McDonald's Franchises. By the way, the operation is now run by his daughter Jenai. . .
We simply arranged for the 'Saimin Noodle", provider to be able to increase his volume, and provide customized packaging for McDonalds. Ditto for the Fish Cake Supplier. The Soup Base was arranged for by the largest popular 'Ramen Supplier', who was associated with Aji-No-Moto in Jspan who operated hundreds of Noodle Ramin Shops in Japan, and later opened on in Honolulu on King Street, near the Movie Theatre. [don't know if it's still there]. This soup 'Saimen Base', is probably still being used. It was quite acceptable, very consistant.Would it be O.K. to identify the noodle vendor? S&S (which incidentally is now owned by Japanese tea & beverage giant Itoen)? The soup base company also - there are still a lot of ramen shops near to the the old Cinerama Theater location on S. King and Punahou (if that's where you're talking about), but I'm not sure if any is the one you're referring to. The theater itself was closed down years ago and is not the site for a Checkers auto parts store.
Wonder how many remember when a "New York City, "Papaya King', Hot Dog and Tropical Drinks concept opened at the "Foodland Supermarket", at Ala Moana Center?Wow, really? That must have been during the time when I was living on the mainland. I would have noticed that. Was it actually a Papaya King franchise? In an interesting way, this makes sense, since people tend to associate papayas with Hawai`i anyway, and with the hot dogs (which are supposed to be "better than filet mignon" I think the slogan goes) I would have expected it to have done pretty well, particularly with tourists. Perhaps it was the Ala Moana location, though.
-
Thank you for the information. What's your feeling about the Rebuilding/Renovation of the International Marketplace in Waikiki? I have several friends who have recieved official notification of pending eviction, after being in business for many years. I'd personally hate to see it dismantled. I was a good friend of the original Trader, who set up the tiki hut in the tree that used to carry radio broadcasts. Remember how Zulu and Hawaii 5/0 made the location a must destination to every touist. I was fishing on the charter Boat just the day before the Gigantic Marlin on display was caught
The renovation of the International Market Place has been predicted for a long time. As you may know, there was a big move to tear it down in 1988 in order to build the new convention center. A that time, it led to militant opposition among small vendors, many of whom are first-generation Korean immigrants. They went to the State Capitol and presented a petition, signed in their own blood. . . I remember many members of the local Korean community, including my mother, being very active in the anti-renovation movement. At any rate, the attempt to renovate was defeated, and the convention center built on the old Aloha Motors lot (which was more suitable size-wise, anyway).
I am not sure this time why there isn't more opposition. It seems the owners have done a better job this time preparing the merchants and laying the groundwork politically. '>Here is an article in the Advertiser about the renovation, though it doesn't really go into depth about the reaction of the merchants. It does however quote David J. Kenney. the owner of Captain Zak's, the place with the giant marlin. Naturally, it's sad to see somethings that's been a part of Waikiki for many decades to pass into history - I'll miss the small carts, the candle-makers, even the haggling.
You were a friend of Trader Vic? What was he like as a person? I was just about to start a new topic on this forum comparing and contrasting Hawaiian Regional Cuisine and Trader Vic-style "Tiki Cuisine". On a related note, tiki culture is making a big comeback . . . Martin Denny is still around and is giving a show this week with a neo-Tiki act called "Don Tiki".
My Restaurant was called. "Lisboa". We opened with Americas first Wine Bar, serving 15 wines by the Glass, We also introduced the Liquor Brandy Cart with over 150 varieties. Served Portugese, Spanish, African and the largest selection of local Hawaiian and Imported Seafoods. I was given the title of 'Hawaii's Mr. Restaurant", by the students at Kapolini Community College, and The University of Hawaii. We won many awards including Dish of the Year twice at the NRA Show in Chicago, and the Escargot Competition in France, where the showed my picture and said the winner was located in Honolulu, Polyanesia. never one word about the USA.I definitely remember Lisboa - though I was too young at the time to go there (or be invited there). Lisboa was probably the single most innovative restaurant in Hawai`i during that period around the 1970s. I still remember reviews in the newspapers where critics would rave about your unique foods and wines that could be found nowhere else on the islands. In fact, even today, there probably isn't any place here that is willing to serve Portuguese cuisine in a first-class atmosphere, despite the large population of Portuguese ancestry. You were truly one of the pioneers.
I also owned and operated a Hotel, Restaurant, Bakery Food Service, Import Export Consultants Business before relocating to Honolulu from Hong Kong. Since we were, primarily Trouble Shooters, we were required to sign confidentiality agreements, no longer applicable since i've been semi-retired for several years. This business operated world wide, and still continues with my associates since 1965. We have been invlved with many operations previously on the Islands. Mostly Hotels. IrwinThanks again, Irwin. We really appreciate your contributions. Hope to hear more from you in the future!
-
Irwin - I never realized that you were so closely associated with the local restaurant business. May I ask the name of the restaurant you ran for 10 years? Perhaps some of the others on the board would have memories of it.
The rent problem unfortunately is one that has been with us for a while. I am sorry you had to suffer through this. As you mention, rents remained high even after the "bubble economy" of the 1980s was long over.
We all have great memories of the Columbia Inns. They were sold in the 1980s by the Kaneshiro family to Kyotaru Corp. of Japan, a restaurant chain, which turned the Waimalu branch into a Kyotaru restaurant. Frank and Tosh Kaneshiro have long since gone on to the great Dodger Stadium in the sky. Though ironically the Inns were doing great business-wise, Kyotaru itself was teetering near bankruptcy by the late 1990s and they were sold off again. A bunch of people tried to have the Kapiolani branch turned into a State landmark, but they failed in the end and it became a Servo Pacific auto showroom. Fortunately, the Kaimuki location was bought up the brothers Tri and Thanh Nguyen who have kept it alive - as far as I know it is still open and doing well.
I believe that some of the Flamingos are still operating, though the main branch on Kapiolani closed down a couple years ago.
Willows reopened last year after at the same address on 901 Hausten, but it is now a multifaceted restaurant and wedding complex. There is the traditional buffet restaurant as well as the upstairs "Rainbow Room", which specializes in tapas-like HRC small plates. Here is the website for the new Willows, as well a recent review of the Willows Rainbow Room by Nadine Kam.
So at least some of the places are staying alive or coming back, though not in exactly the same form as we remember them. . .
-
Mahalo for the report, Chris.
Care to tell us about Loft, TnT, and the Bowling Alley? Us Hawai`i people are curious how our food is presented in SoCal!
Thanks!
-
Thanks for sharing those great recollections, Irwin. You may be one of the only people who knows the story of how Saimin came to McDonald's. I never realized that they had based their recipe on Washington Saimin! Would you mind giving us more details about his important untold story in Hawai`i's culinary history?
Whose idea was it to adopt Saimin in the local McDonald's? Why was Washington Saimin chosen as the place to copy? How was the research done, and what problems did they have adapting it to the mass-production fast-food model? How were your interactions with the mainland consultants? And, what, pray tell, if you can safely say, that is . . . was the recipe?
McDonald's Hawai`i still serves saimin. It also still serves Portuguese sausage or Spam and rice with your eggs for breakfast. Last year they also experimented with mini-plate lunches and melon-flavored shakes (taking off from the recent craze here for Melona, a Korean melon-flavored milk / popsicle) at few locations. Don't know if that panned out though.
Irwin, a Double Mahalo Nui Loa for that memory! Everytime someone orders a Saimin at McDonald's they owe a debt not only to Washington Saimin, but to you as well.
-
Another piece of Saimin history is no more:
-
I don't get gravy on frites. It's so counterproductive to put wet stuff on crispy stuff. Well, I "get" it. But it's a crying shame.
I was thinking hard about something I didn't get but as usual you led us in the right direction, Jinmyo.
Poutine. Is there anyone who "gets" this? Gravy on frites with cottage cheese? Created by people who call themselves French?
I'm O.K. with the mayonnaise on fries thing in practice, though if I think about it conceptually - whipped vegetable oil on vegetable oil-infused vegetables - I wonder how this could be.
-
Rachel, Tad, your comments about location and otherness really have made me rethink the mid-range concept. I of course went overboard in saying that anyone who pays $20 for barbeque is a poser or victim. They just may not want to drive or fly for hours to get to the place where they can get the stuff for less.
The $6 bhelpuri thread in the India Forum is very instructive. Bhelpuri (including some very good ones) would go for no more than the equivalent of several cents on Chowpatty Beach in Mumbai. Suvir has to charge more for his because of his much higher rent and labor costs. Moreover, he can charge more because Manhattaners are not anywhere near Mumbai to get the cheaper stuff.
On the other hand, as you note, perhaps the absence of the local mid-range is inevitable when you are dealing with people who can either eat it at home or go to a hole-in-the-wall and pay much less. Perhaps I had some idealized vision of the regional bistro / bouchon or trattoria in my head. As Rachel mentions, even those nowadays cater mostly to the tourist trade.
I guess the hope is / was that local food could benefit from the wider palette of ingredients explored by HRC, hence boosting the local producers who have sprung up to supply those ingredients, and HRC could benefit from becoming more deeply rooted in the local community, both in terms of customers and in terms of links the dishes that people eat regularly. But perhaps this is a forlorn hope . . .
-
Came to this thread late. Great article and follow-ups, needless to say. I want to comment on a lot of the posts. Will probably come off looking like an ignorant smartass . . .
From Mamster's Article:
The one (no-doubt-translated) recipe for yuk gae jang that I was able to find on the Web called for "10 oz. striped beef." An asterisk led me to this clarification: "Get a piece of beef that has stripes on it at a market." The recipe also requires you to buy dried fern and boil it for 30 minutes.Yukgaejang usually uses "yangji meori", or brisket, which does have stripes I guess. It is basically the same cut that is called "chadol baegi" on Korean grill menus. Yukgaejang also may sometimes use "arong satae", which is shank.
The dried fern is "gosari" - a kind of fiddlehead. People in Korea usually get it fresh so don't need to boil it so long, but it's imported here dried up. You guys in the NW are probably able to buy fresh local fiddleheads and don't need to use the dried stuff (though fiddleheads in general are alleged by some to be carcinogenic).
The gold standard of mainstreaming for an ethnic cuisine in the US is the appearance of a national chain serving a bland version of it. Italian? The Olive Garden. Chinese? Panda Express. It's hard to imagine Korean food ever reaching this level of acceptance, but it's a nice thought. Pull into the drive-thru at Korea Hut and order up bimbimbap, kimchi soup, bulgogi, and plenty of packets of kochu jang (Korean hot sauce).Matthew, you should check out Yummy's if you're here in Honolulu. It's basically what you're referring to.
engberson asked some questions:
What's the difference between chigae and gae jang?Tchigae is usually translated as stew, though in practice it is refers to soupy dishes in which the chunky proportion is greater than the soupy proportion. I've tried to provide a basic definitions of the various categories of Korean preps at the tail end of the chigae, jigae, jjigae thread in the Elsewhere in Asia forum.
Yukgaejang is a pretty idiosyncratic word. Yuk is from the Chinese character for "meat", and usually refers to beef in Korea (pork in China), but etymology of the rest is unclear. "Gaejang" by itself doesn't really have any common contemporary meaning - at least not any related to food, and there are no other food dishes that end with these syllables. "gae" can mean dog, and "jang" can mean sauce, or more specifically soy sauce, but it's not clear how all that adds up.
O.K. I finally found a site that provides a theory. According to this site, "gaejang" is an archaic abbreviation for "gaejangguk", i.e. dog-and-soy sauce soup, what is nowadays know as "boshintang", "sacheoltang", or erh.. ."mongmongtang" (protect-health soup, four seasons soup, or bow-wow soup). I guess it was very chilli-hot to make up for the gaminess of the dog meat. But rich people who adapted it substituted beef instead, which is why it's called "yukgaejang".
Arrgh. . .
And does anyone know what "son" kimchi is? I can't find a translation (I've tried www.kimchi.or.kr) and I'd like to know what's in it before I buy it.It seems you are referring to "chonggak kimchi" which literally means bachelor kimchi, though the word can refer to young males in general. I believe the etymology is also kind of rude: chonggak kimchi is made from a small, cylindrical radish that allegedly looks like, ahem, a body part that young males possess.
Given how straightlaced a society it is, a lot of Korean sayings and idioms have remarkably lewd origins!
mrbigjas wanted to know:
OK what is the name of those little dried fishes that you put on things like seasoning? Little things, kinda golden colored...The little fishes are called "myeolchi", which is usually translated as anchovies, though they are actually Engraulis Japonicus, not the stuff you find on pizza.
Enough already. . .
-
Another thing - both Aloha and Hawaiian Airlines eliminated the coupon system for frequent flyers at the beginning of the year. This is the system that ExtraMSG alluded to earlier that allowed travellers to buy books of tickets that could be used on any flight they chose in the future. Coupons made it too difficult for the airlines to predict seat occupancy on any given flight. People will still be able to get prices similar to the coupon level, but they will have to book in advance to do so, which eliminates what little spontaneity was left in interisland travel.
But Gov. Lingle is now talking about reviving interisland ferry service - bringing back old memories of SeaFlite hovercraft!
Returning to the plate lunch issue (not that the interisland stuff wasn't fascinating!) While Nadine Kam at the Star-Bulletin, Matthew Gray at the Advertiser, and KHNL's Cheap Eats (see links in the media digest) frequently review Honolulu plate lunch places, I wanted to looked around on the web for personal sites that might contain reviews. There were surprisingly few - it was easier to find personal sites about L.A. Hawaiian-style plate lunch places! The best one I could find is called Plate Lunch Critique. It's pretty good, but unfortunately hasn't been updated since year 2000. You get the feeling that the site owner "Bruddah Richard" really cares about his subject a lot, however, and there are pictures to boot.
-
Rachel, thanks so much for your expression of support. I'll try to meet your expectations and keep it going as best I can - with of course the kokua of the hopefully ever-expanding Egullet "Hawai`i Club".
And thank you for writing the one book that, more than any other, has raised the visibility of our local foodways on the mainland and throughout the world!
BTW, regarding Honolulu Magazine. They do have a website, but unfortunately it only provides a table of contents of their print issues. I will try to get ahold of their restaurant survey when it comes out and provide a brief digest, however.
O.K., it's Wednesday, so here are few more updates from the Honolulu newspapers.
In the Star-Bulletin (all three of the feature stories by Betty Shimabukuro):
Showdown: Spam vs Tulip vs Treet. Tulip is a Dutch (!) version Spam made with bacon. I won't give away the thrilling results.
Maui store is a cheesy good time. Who Cut the Cheese? in Kihei.
Beef dish brings Snyder $10,000. Sort of like simplified, Japan-Americanized Pho.
Hawaii's Kitchen: Polenta with seared scallops
Electric Kitchen: Minestrone, Won Bok Slaw
Not much in the Advertiser food section this week:
Checking out Chinatown By Zenaida Serrano Espanol. Lyon Arboretum's Cook's Tour - durian, menpachi, frogs. . .
QUICK BITES by Wanda A. Adams. Chocolate buffet fund-raiser, Kapolei pumpkin patch, gifts to community colleges in honor of late WOW pastry chef Heather Ho, Taste of China trade show at Blaisdell Center.
Not in the food section, but a big story:
Fire destroys Hilo's Maebo Noodle Factory by Rod Ohira. Maebo is the manufacturer of "One Ton" wonton-pi chips, the one with the old-fashioned weightlifter on the package, as well as one of the last local manufacturers of saimin noodles for retail. Blane Maebo hopes to be producing again with new facilities and equipment in two months.
I've started a thread in the Pacific NW / Alaska / Hawai`i Forum about this, with more info.
Saimin in Hawaii
in Hawaii: Cooking & Baking
Posted
Too bad it didn't work out. With time, I'm sure you're completely correct that the drinks could have been a great success. And without some of the gimmicry that characterizes Jamba Juice and the like. Anyone who wants to see an interesting menu comparison can look at the names of the juice and smoothie options at Papaya King and compare them to those at Jamba Juice. The ones at Papaya King simply bear the names of the fruits that they're made from - Papaya, Mango, etc. with a few simple concoctions like Coconut Champagne. The ones at Jamba Juice seem to be slogans rather than descriptions - all of them have ™ or ® after them - what exactly is "Carribean Passion™"?.
O.K., my rant aside, it would have been great to have a branch of the great NY institution Papaya King here in Hawai`i.
By the way, under Jenai Sullivan Wall, Foodland has been doing a great job of promoting locally-made food products. Here's an article in the Advertiser about their latest effort.
Lynn's Deli in Ala Moana has closed down. They moved for a while to the Makai Market Food Court on the ground floor of the center for a while before moving out completely. I'm not sure if they are still in operation elsewhere, though there is no "Lynn's Deli" or "Lynn's Bakery" listed in the phone book.
I think you're referring to the "Maui Hot Dog" made by the Maui Meat Co., though I don't remember the name of the ranch they came from. Unfortunately (sigh), they are no longer being made, at least not the genuine article. However, we still do have "Redondo's Red Hot's" from Waipahu, which while not quite the same as the Maui Hot Dog, maintain the tradition of the neon-red cure!
I didn't mean to suggest that hot dogs are not eaten very much in Honolulu, just that they might not be quite as popular as on the mainland given the other options that are available. One local development in recent years is the shoyu dog, which is hot dogs braised in spiced soy sauce, sort of like shoyu chicken, and is popular for plate lunches. Another is the Hot Dog Musubi, which is a frankfurtherish version of the Spam Musubi - a shoyu hot dog is split lengthwise, then tied onto a rectangular block of rice with a piece of nori seaweed.
It's great that Korean food is so widely available in Seattle. I don't have the exact population figures, but I'm sure the Korean immigrant population there is probably one of the five or six highest for all metropolitan areas in the country.
Certainly the availability has increased a huge amount in Honolulu as well. The pioneers of local Kim Chee manufacturing were "Hahm's", "King's" and (on the Big Island) "Kohala" Kim Chee companies, each of which have been around for a several decades. More recently, a lot of small and large Korean specialty grocery stores have sprung up, each selling their own house brands of Kim Chee in many varieties. The biggest Korean Supermarkets are "Palama" and "Queen's" supermarkets, which both sell a large amount of ready-to-eat foods as well as grocery items. The biggest concentration of Korean restaurants is on Keeaumoku St. near Ala Moana, coincidentally (?) near where many of the Korean Bars were originally (and some still are) located.
Don Ho is still wowing the grandpas and grandmas from Podunk at the Waikiki Beachcomber and even has his own restaurant at the Aloha Tower Marketplace, though I've never eaten there. His daughter Hoku is also beginning to make a name for herself - she sang the theme song for "Legally Blonde".
. . and we still miss Rap. I can't believe that it's been nearly 20 years since he passed away. They still play "Fate Yanagi", "Room Service", "Young Kanakas" on the radio. . . it never gets old. In a way, his comedy helps each generation define and redefine what they think "Hawai`i" ought to stand for in the minds of its own people.
Even today, the few remaining Korean-style bars still distinguish themselves via the high quality of their food as much as their, errh, other attractions. I had always wondered about the origin of the "Korean Chicken" that gets sold at so many plate lunch places nowadays, since it is not a traditional Korean dish. You've solved that mystery for me. If they had called it "Chicken Miss Kim" or "Chicken Arirang" it wouldn't have been such a mystery in the first place! By the way, would you happen to have the name of that take-out place you mentioned?
Unfortunately, I couldn't find any reference to a Dr. Sasso in the UH directory. Nor Flora Chang or her husband in the Geology dept. I suppose they have all retired and are now enjoying their lives playing golf and flying off to Las Vegas every now and then.
Thanks again Irwin for a very informative post!