John W.
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Posts posted by John W.
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If and when Jamison and I leave Nectar for a new place I know we both are going to take several months off to eat and stage around the world. Is there any places you would like to go work with, be it pesron, restaurant or winery before you take that leap?
Working at a winery would be difficult as I'm not, or going to be, a winemaker. But let's choose Georges de Vogue, F. Mugnier, N. Joly. I'd love to hang out a season with Darioush (I know them well enough to not get in the way, I can rack and top and bottle, but past that am worthy only to shine the 10,000 gallon fermenters).
People and restaurants on the other hand...
Thomas Keller (washing dishes, it doesn't matter)
Charlie Trotter's (as a sommelier stage)
Would love to spend a season with Allen Meadows tasting in the motherland
Michel Bras, Gagnaire, Tetsuya, Gordon
For re-charging purposes, go back to school and work with my old sous chef at Red Sage, Bill Phillips, the guy who gets most of the credit as to what little I've accomplished. I think he's still doing Escoffier Room. Just being in the same room with him is hugely motivating.
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John,
Unfortunately, I don't get down to DC terrribly often. Unfortunate because there are a number of restaurants there I would love to try, including Firefly. Can you describe your culinary philosophy and style? What kind of food do you really enjoy cooking and how do you incorporate wine into your cuisine?
Doc;
It is really hard to pin down my style, as it changes depending on the concept. The common thread among the places I've worked as chef has been making things taste as they should, with any component being complimentary to the main item. I take a very minimalist approach to most things.
I really enjoy cooking everything. Even the fried oysters that I want to take off every menu change. Green vegetables to see how green you can get them. Perfect scallops. Braises.
As for wine, it's turned from a tasty beverage I enjoy at dinner to a very big part of my life. I emphasize primal flavors here, which I feel makes it much easier to pair wines with. There's not much subtlety here, so when having our lamb dish, if you like pinot, have pinot. If you like merlot, have merlot. I will admit to tailoring the menu to go best with Pinot. And I will also admit to the wine list driving the menu.
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Is it typical for a young chef to bounce around like this in the early part of their career before settling down for the long-haul? And to bring more immediacy to the question, what do you want to do in the future?
Don;
I think it's typical among sous chefs to move around, I think my "bouncing around" was a lot slower than most. It was very important to me to do a year wherever I went. At least. You learn as much as you can from the chef you are working for, then go out and work for someone else and learn as much as you can from them. Repeat until you think you have enough knowledge to do it as chef.
As for my immediate future, I plan on going to lunch at Equinox today. Past that, I can't really say. I'd love to do something on my own, and with the financial experience I am getting running Firefly as GM (my other job), feel comfortable making the leap now. Opening the four places (Topaz/Rouge/Helix/Firefly) was incredibly eye-opening as to how much openings cost, how quickly things can spiral out of control financially, and how much they are not like "The Restaurant."
I do know this as to my future: It will include wine.
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I'd like to point out that the women picked up your reference right away!
(For those of you not from DC, next to Sushi Ko is a place where "Good Guys" go and watch women)
"Bad Guys" go to The Royal Palace, the nastiest joint in all the land. Yep, when you have a hankering for a one eyed double amputee in her late fifties give me a call I'll let you sit at my private table. Perhaps the boys club should shift to BDC if they think they can hold their steak frites down.
Many are called, few are chosen.
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No. I can confirm that a Ewok Village based place kept copies of EVERY possible restaurant week guide at the host stand, stating very cleary that the restaurant in question was not participating for dinner.
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John W.,
What's that gazpacho that Kaz makes?
So much pea, so little cuke.
Gazpacho the Spanish way. No mucking about. Put some raw tuna in it and everyone's a winner.
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I've been quiet as I've had the adding machine fired up to see how many $16 roast chickens I need to sell to pay for the two sommeliers I've added to the payroll. Or what verbage I'd use when some guy gives me the stink eye for "drinking his wine." Or how much of a pretentious jackass I'd look like wearing a tastevin (or tastevinage depending on who you talk to) in the casual bistrot I work in. Nope, don't agree one bit.
I do my part to train my staff on flawed wine detection before the wine hits the guest. What I did not get from this article except "Make 'em pay" was Mr. Giliberti's part describing to the reader about what these flaws are, and how to detect them. What if the wine is only slightly affected by cork taint? What then? When is it acceptable to send back a bottle (please to add anecdotes from sommeliers)? With the circulation that the Washington Post has, how about a column dedicated to explaining the faults in wine and how to detect them? Would not that further your goal of eliminating flawed wine from crossing the consumer'slips? An admirable goal, that.
Before we go on and on about "making 'em pay," let's see the above article. Maybe, just maybe, consult some restaurant wine directors (but stay clear of the Washingtonian suggestions please).
Look ma, no insults.
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Nothing to see here folks.
How's that chicken you're serving at the restaurant, John?
It's great. Crisp skin, juicy.
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I'm a bit surprised more people aren't having a field day with this. Perhaps we can assume from the restaurant professionals' silence that they agree?
Nothing to see here folks.
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It's hard to go wrong here, at least up until the desserts. Start with the Sultan's Mazza Feast which seems crazily expensive at $69.95, but will easily stuff three people. On the weekends (or during the week if you call ahead) you should order the kibbeh nayeh, their version being as good as any around. The food invites lingering and convivial discussion over a Lebanese red wine, as the quality is so high that even as the hot dishes cool to room temperature, they're still great (not always the case). This family-run restaurant is one of the hidden gems of the Washington area.
Cheers,
Rocks.
True that.
I can't remember the last time I was welcomed into a restaurant with such warmth and sincerity. Definitely a memorable evening.
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The service, the food, and the great wine at Firefly are three great reasons to go there for a special occasion.
If I were having a birthday dinner that is where I would want to go.
Either you are my mother or I owe you $20.
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Todd Thrasher makes the best mojitos.
Know this.
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Lots of talk about burgers here, especially the well-deserved compliments on Palena's and Matchbox's offerings. My experience with the wagyu burger at Citronelle's Terrace deserves mention as well. Not cheap at $24, it is very simply served with toasted brioche bun and a smear of aioli. No cheese or anything else to hide the quality of the hand-chopped meat, which absolutely shines. Add the wine stylings of Mssr. Slater, and you've got quite the anti-Helix lounge happy hour.
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I love a happy ending.
Yeah we know, but Ray's I'm afraid is not a rub and tug.
Those are some pretty fatty (marbled folks) steaks...
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I love a happy ending.
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The Wine Enthusiast on M and 21st has a pretty good selection from what i recall. Well-known stuff like Meibo and Onokoroshi. And bottles that e-gullet forum hosts can drop on the street too.
The place in Woodley Park (Sake club?) had a decent amount of labels, nice setting too.
Decibel is awesome, but next time you are in NYC you have to go here.
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As long as this guy doesn't get to come...
"You will pay for your bloody crimes against my
kind, Landrum. I am ... The Meatqualizer!"
Nominee, "funniest thing I've seen this week".
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John W.!!
"Who sang oh Micky?" (Last question on our application.)
And.... Where is Marginal Man now?
Welcome to Town Mr. Kliman...So We can know you better....
Please give me your thoughts ON MY personal favorite,...."Can I bring a cake to the restaurant? "
Be Well. Meshe at Eve.
Tony Basil.
I actually read something about Marginal Man the other day somewhere. Do you actually ask that? If so, you must only employ ex-1980's skaters. Which would explain the last name of your sommelier/window cleaner.
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Mssr. Kliman;
A few questions, just to get to know you better.
Bad Brains or Minor Threat?
Sette or Two Amy's?
Derrick (Palena) or Jarad (Nectar)?
Chess or backgammon?
Thomas Keller or Gordon Ramsay?
Ricard or Sambuca?
Bouchon or Bistro Jeanty?
Chambolle Musigny or Russian River?
Cats or dogs?
Ladies WITH glasses or ladies WITHOUT glasses?
It's quite a pleasure having you join us. I know it's not the Restaurant Eve employment application, but the answers to these questions will be held close to my heart.
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EGullet event there for $21 a person? Geeze, Michael, are you nuts or sumpin? I suggest we pick a Sunday night and take over the whole place. Could we please spend a tiny little more than $21? I'm talkin' rib-eyes! Rocks, you organize it.
Put a 1 in front of the $21 and the crew will post. Ordering wine like we mean it.
To refute the dirty-ass Ray's kitchen rumor...Me and a card-carrying Ray's VIP took a quick jaunt through Mssr. Landrum's office on Sunday, quite spotless. I didn't even accept any free drinks to offer my opinion, which according to Mssr. Landrum is the only thing at which he is skilled. I beg to differ, wearing non-matching plaid items is a skill which our hero is quite adept at.
Why does there need to be an e-gullet event? Dunno. Take your loved ones, your 18 pound cats, your herbivore nieces, your Greatful Dead collections (making sure you deposit said in the trash upon entering). Go. Go today. Tough to get in? Pretend it's practice trying to get into Per Se.
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Love it or hate it. Customer or employee. It's that time of year again.
List of participating restaurants and link to Open Table participants here:
Right. Thanks Bill, I forgot. Gives me enough time to purchase firearms.
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The 4th is on a Sunday. I'll be doing Sunday things.
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The denizens of this forum will be pleased to hear that as of this morning, I'm never drinking again and have decided to become a vegetarian... Until lunch time when I need to taste 236 different 1982 Bordeaux with Parker. Oh, and I forgot about dinner were I'll be dining in each of Jose Andres' restaurants twice before my flight out to the Laundry where I'll be hepling my boy Tommy K. test new pastry ideas. But first a double buffet at Cracker Barrel and the Golden Coral to set my day on track.
Edited to reflect the truth behind the man shrouded in mystery, hidden in a riddle thats wrapped in an enigma stuffed into a enchillada.
Once you go baller there's no going back. And remember rehab is for quitters.
Two words come to mind after last night's carnage.
conflagration, and gout.
I halfway expected to see a "Keep hands and feet away from moving parts" sign hanging above the table, as ten of us lustily shoveled barely cooked cow products into our maws, smashing it back with wine ordered seemingly ten at a time for a dime.
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Damn. Now I have to wait 6 months before it's slow enough to eat there.
Congrats to Restaurant Eve on a great review.
Thrasher, who do I send my dry cleaning bill to?
A Chat with John Wabeck
in D.C. & DelMarVa: Dining
Posted
Lunch at Equinox was brilliant, thanks for asking.
Lots of Burgundy, which always makes for a great breakfast, lunch and/or dinner.
JPW always goes on about the duck salad we do at Firefly, go there and have Equinox's version. Also had a poularde canneloni, which was great. Very fine chicken mousse, wrapped in pasta, baked, served with a sauce of red and yellow peppers, super reduced chicken stock and butter.
Everyone stayed awake.