MobyP

I've used both the Imperia machine (which you can find in Sur la Table etc.) and also the Atlas (by Marcato) - both are the most common in terms of availability (in the UK and US), but I found the Atlas far sturdier, and also it had more gradations on the wheel, making it more accurate in judging pasta thickness. I'm still not completely happy with the thicknesses available - though the next step up is a restaurant pasta machine - about 500 dollars/250-300 pounds. It makes a much wider sheet, and again is sturdier. Cleaning these machines is also an issue. My instructions told me not to use soapy water, or throw it in the dishwasher, so I always end up knocking the thing around on my front doorstep, trying to get all of the flour out, or using a toothbruh to get in the crannies. Of course, when I grow up, I wanna be an Italian grandmother... I wanna snap my fingers and have gnocchi flying in all directions. Of favourite recipes - the Batali beef-cheek ravioli with chicken liver toscana sauce (and shaved black truffle, if you have it, or some black truffle oil if you don't) is as close to heaven as I've come. Obviously beef cheeks are hard to come by, but I've used oxtail, and short ribs, and felt both times that my result turned out a far more succulent end result than the version I had at Babbo. I've been playing with several different pumpkin/butternut squash recipes, and there always seemed to be something missing - a heft, or substance to the taste (not the texture). I discovered recently that a tablespoon or so of good balsamic vinagar adds a background to the flavour that's unidentifiable, but makes all the difference. [edit for typo]

In this weekend's Observer (UK), there was an article on the doctoring of SA wines. Tim Atkin "South Africa has been accused of peppering up its wines."

Are they open now? I heard they had teething troubles.

I spent 6 months just outside Reigate, and I found nothing (except for the odd French market that would appear mysteriously selling foie gras, exotic spices, and 50 gallon drums of cassoulet, and then disappear the next day). Poppy - where is the Dining room?

Melinda Stevens at Morgan M. Tarka - I actually meant to pm you with the link a few days ago, but forgot.

Have you asked around at Borough? I don't know if they're organic, but the chances are good, and they sometimes help me out with some veal bones.

I heard from my Brazilian Aunt that there's a place - I think it's called Brazil - on the Fulham Road, opposite the Chelsea Football grounds. She said they serve a fair feijoada as well as other goodies. Has anyone been?

You are correct in both, possibly all five, respects. Although the restaurant is actually upstairs - like the Oak used to be. Downstairs is a gastro-bar pretending to be a pub. And after tasting the food, I'm inclined to give it the benefit of the doubt!

Not right? They're positively illegal. That was a great post, Marlene. I'm going to see about tracking down your book. Off hand, do you know when the last 'authentically' Jewish East End chip shop survived until? Was it quickly subsumed beneath the charicature that the chip shop became, or did it hold its ethnic origins - at least in the East End?

Wait - was he the fella in the NY prison?

I just discovered that the Atlas, spoken of fondly in these pages, is literally crawling distance from where I live. It's like finding money in an old pair of jeans. So - I'm off to try that one out (Scott and Fi have both given it a recommendation). And I want to keep this gastro-pub-crawl idea alive. Obviously it's a job for professionals and grown-ups, but I think I'm capable. I feel prepared. And my belt has at least one unused notch (there's a three-second echo in my wallet, but that's another issue entirely). Maybe late feb? Actually, there might be a game here. What was that mathematical problem chosing a path through the seven bridges of a city - Gottingen, was it? - for a travelling salesman, without crossing the same bridge twice. We could have an evening where someone has to connect three gastro pubs, all within access of each other, for three different courses - and the only rule is, you're not allowed to cross any bridge in Gottingen! It'll be bigger than monopoly.

I know nothing about Corrigan - what's his history/style of cooking?

I had heard the same thing about a year ago in a documentary on UK TV. Obviously the style of Jewish cooking differs substantively depending on the ghetto or region from where it came (Rome, Crakow etc), and I can't remember the specifics in this case. The first shop, I believe, was in the East End (as it would be) in the 19th C, but I believe they spread rather quickly as the style of it caught on.

I don't know if this will be of interest, but Heston Blumenthal just published this recipe for oxtails, and it's amazing. I expanded it and cooked the oxtails and short ribs simultaneously in a deep roasting tray, and it was kind of extraordinary. He goes for very low heat - @200F/90C - for 7 or 8 ours. And check out the different liquids and aromatics he uses.

Can I ask a couple of geeky questions? 1. What's a cocotte? Is it non-stick? 2. And when you say "another with hot milk on the side," you mean for adding to the puree as it heats? 3. And how do they keep the starch stable going through all of those temperature changes? Do they pre-cook them for 20 mins to a certain low temp, then cool them, and then re-heat them to another temp - add butter, milk, and then let them cool completely? (I'm paraphrasing the Steingarten/Jackal10 method mentioned here). I'd imagine the starch would be very difficult to control - especially with all of that whisking.

Bain marie for the puree? Really - I'm sure you'll be able to answer any questions he has. Just be patient with him. He'll be trying to find out all of your Louisa-secrets anyway. Have a great time, L. m

Is this true? If so, you should consider yourself supported and make your case. The cancellation charge, imho, should always come with a time limit. If you call in good time, as opposed to simply not showing, they should take that as good faith on your part. In the case of The Square, because we are taking their private room, we expected to pay a deposit which became non-refundable 4 weeks before the event. In addition to this, if the number falls beneath (I think) 8 people, they reserve the right to charge us additionally per person. But this has to do with our use of unique facilities, for a larger than usual number.

And of course the cheapest night out in the eGullet calendar - The Burger Club!

Or for the more picturesque, there's the posh cafe on the canal - used to be great for breakfasts - where Edgware Road crosses Blomfield road.

The peeps who own the Ebury, also own a place called The Waterway. It's on the canal, past Warwick Ave. I've passed it a couple of times, but never gone in. Just had a fantastic lunch at the Ebury though, so I'd definitely have it as an option.

Interestingly - the mighty Marina 'Pulitzer this year for sure' O'Laughlin offered some good possibilities for eating under 20 quid. Unfortunately, you may need to pay a few quid to subscribe to the site...

Please note : some of these links may require free or paid registration to view. Another bleak week, I'm afraid.... This week's selection comes from: The Times The Independent The Guardian The Observer The Telegraph This is London Restaurants Rhodes 24, London. Tracey MacLeod - picks at Winkles. Jan Moir - Desperate times, measures - Mycafe. Giles Coren - does a twofer with The Ebury and Patterson’s. Fay "I-Hate-Wareing" Maschler opines over Banquette. Jay Rayner on Miss Damrong's sublime Thai dishes. Siobhan Murphy, 1492. Melinda Stevens - Square Pie. Features Diana Henry on rethinking your cooking techniques after having a child. Marina O'Loughlin on how to get the red carpet treatment for 20 quid. Food Feeling like an overstuffed armadillo in an evening suit? Mark Hix shows the way. Gordon Ramsay on post-new years alternatives to taping your mouth shut. Three more from Jill Dupleix. Wine and Spirits Andrew Catchpole on Balinese bubbly and Chinese-style Chablis. Tim Atkin on abstinence. Richard Ehrlich on cut-price deals. Best of British pubs - Adam Edwards visits Glamorgan.

From Andy: "Just had it confirmed that Ramsay's Fleur restaurant has ceased trading due to "problems with renewing the lease". This came via a friend who tried to book and was told the news by the receptionist. It is also rumoured that Amaryliss is to close soon (that is just a rumour, but has some credibility in light of Fleur). I have contacted Sauce Communications, Ramsay's PR for futher info but have not had a response as yet."

Is that the appetiser, or pre-amuse? And what's next?

A dedicated job, if you don't mind me saying. What made you chose all three? Was it the 'pub,' the 'crawling,' or the 'food' that decided it? I'm glad you liked the tortellini at the Havelock. They pull through, in my opinion. If you ever venture a little further south, I just had lunch at the Ebury - also a gastro pub. A foie gras/regular duck liver mousse, that was the best I've ever had. A generous ceviche of salmon with daikon and pangrattato and small fresh curry leaves. An unbelieveable slab of pork belly - the crackling was like a fragile pane of glass. Served with Robuchon style mash, and choucroute. Then some plump, juicy jumbo prawns - six I think - that were larger than any langoustine I've ever had (for a tenner - so quite a bargain). I'd heard that the chef from the Blumenthal-connected brasserie in Brey was there - but he'd apparently left at New Years - to be replaced by a former chef from Chez Bruce (the manager told me the name, but it slips my mind). Giles Coren just reviewed it this weekend.