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This speaks more to the problems of the business as a whole. The kitchen staff at Susur may not make a lot of money, but that is probably endemic to the industry. I'm not sure what the answers are as the economics of the industry are difficult throughout. This is one of the reasons I have great respect for cooks as well as those who made it up to chef and beyond.

This is the kind of rumormongering that gives internet sites like eGullet and others a bad name. As far as I am concerned, this is pure hearsay. I have been in Susur's kitchen. It is small. I didn't see anyone in there who looked like they didn't want to be there or couldn't be doing something else. Susur's kitchen produces exquisitely crafted, uniquely styled food. There is no place else like it in N.A. that I have been too. It is my understanding that the kitchen staff in top kitchens are notoriously low paid as a rule. Those who work in them often to do so in hopes of acquiring skills that they cannot acquire elsewhere. Of course, this is not to say that Susur's employment practices or those in other restaurants are ethical or unethical. I do, however, doubt that anyone is working in his kitchen because they are forced to. Would they like to make more money while working there? No doubt. If one wishes to argue that kitchen staff are, in general, underpaid throughout the industry, that is a different and totally legitimate question and one worthy of discussion.

Paul is doing consulting work for Stephen Starr. Starr is still looking for an executive chef for The Striped Bass.

← Sorry you got me with those notations. I believe that they are somewhat anachronistic. Congratulations, John, on a superb blog. I had a lot of fun reminiscing about my hometown and getting a better sense of what it is like today. Had it been like that then, I might never have left. Then again, it wasn't so bad even then. It was just a wee bit different.

As I clarified in my previous two posts here, I really don't expect the average person fully understands Japanese cuisine or any other cuisine for that matter. As you implied, Japanese cuisine has undergone considerable changes, especially since World War II, and I can say it has changed for the better for the most part. Whether it is important to learn a particular cuisine largely depends on whether that cuisine is worth learning. As I wrote in my last post, I believe Japanese cuisine is worth learning. ← I did not mean to imply that Japanese or other cuisines are not worth learning, just that it is nearly impossible for any one person to fully understand something that is constantly shifting and evolving. Besides the learning is fun.

I am not sure that any cuisine is ever fully "understood" by anyone. Cuisines are really much too complex and ever-evolving for that. Just think of regional variations alone. "American" food is much different today than it was even ten or twenty years ago. I imagine "Japanese" food is too. I am also not sure that it is really important beyond a personal quest that a particular cuisine be fully understood, so long as its elements are appreciated and one has a mind open to its possibilities.

Thanks, Elliot. It was.

Somehow I must have missed them if they were there. Whether or not they were, it was a great exhibit. I was particularly intrigued by the "travelling" cutlery sets. Apparently travelers used to bring their own cutlery with them.

I suspect that it gets as much exposure as it can handle at this time. I don't think they have too much trouble filling twelve seats per night.

I recently had the opportunity to visit this exhibit in person and strongly recommend it to anyone with an interest in dining before it closes shortly. The only flaw as far as I am concerned is that it did not take into account recent trends in dining utensil design specific to particular chefs and their creations such as at El Bulli and what Martin Krasner has been doing for Grant Achatz at Alinea amongst others.

Who are the other two?

Those chefs party hearty, eh? Thanks for all the great photos and reports!!! ← My pleasure, Michael. They do. I can't keep up with them. I crashed around 1AM. I know of at least a few who were out until at least 5AM.

If I were going and I wish I were, I would be sure to hit Combal.0. I would go there because it looks like a fascinating restaurant and I recently met Chef Davide Scabin in NYC. He seems like a fascinating and very intelligent man and I would love to experience his cooking.

The time came for the Rising Star Chef New York 2006 Awards. The winners were: Makoto Okuwa and Mark Andelbradt of Morimoto, Franklin Becker of Brasserie, Gregory Brainin of Jean-Georges Restaurants, Tony Esnault of Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, Iacopo Falai of Falai, Paul Liebrandt formerly of Gilt, Tony Liu of August, Zakary Pelaccio of 5 Ninth and Fatty Crab, Alex Urena of Urena, Galen Zamarra of Mas (Farmhouse), Jennifer Giblin of Blue Smoke, Will Goldfarb of Room 4 Dessert, Michael Laiskonis of Le Bernardin, Bar Chef Junior Merino of The Modern, and Sommalier Arnaud Devulder of DB Bistro Moderne. New York City Rising Stars 2006! Some group shots...watch carefully A few more portraits: Ya-roo Yang (aka "Bond Girl") with George Mendes, Albert Adria and Louisa Chu, Alex Stupak and Johnny Iuzzini, Alex, Johnny and a full-bellied yours truly (largely thanks to the work of Johnny's crew at J-G earlier in the day ), Yours truly with some of the Titans of Dessert, New York or anywhere! After this fabulous party, there was more to go as a large contingent left Crobar to head across the street to go to Bed. Yes, the afterparty was held at Bed. Unfortunately, I don't have too many photos fit for a public board like this, but there is one I can leave this document with... Sherry Yard and Pichet Ong in bed at Bed. So ends my documentation of this memorable event. I will be happy to continue discussion of this event and may add more detail to specific areas as it becomes available to me. Thank you for your attention.

Nice report and glad you liked it. It is very nuch a fun place to dine. Was everyone there dining there for the first time or were there repeaters?

Fantastic looking dinner! Congratulations on pulling it off. Nice pic of Sam with both arms shakin'. John, have you been to SK? The style is somewhat reminiscent.

Both rachel ray and Mario Batali have their own cookware lines. I would think that tv is where it is at, at least as far as money. Except for the hit restaurant everything else spins off of that.

What you have, Molto, is a disease. However, you are lucky as treatment of this disease is something I specialize in. I accept payment in American Express or truffles.

The Rising Stars Review 2006 New York "Rising Stars" held at Crobar Each year Starchefs.com awards the designation of "Rising Star" to chefs in each of a number of cities who they feel are today's new culinary stars. The 2006 New York awardees are: Mark Andelbradt : Morimoto Makoto Okuwa : Morimoto Franklin Becker : Brasserie Gregory Brainin : Jean-Georges Restaurants Tony Esnault : Alain Ducasse at the Essex House Iacopo Falai : Falai Paul Liebrandt : Gilt (less) Tony Liu : August Zakary Pelaccio : 5 Ninth and Fatty Crab Alex Urena : Urena Galen Zamarra : Mas (Farmhouse) Pastry Chef Jennifer Giblin : Blue Smoke Pastry Chef Will Goldfarb : Room 4 Dessert Pastry Chef Michael Laiskonis : Le Bernardin Sommalier Arnaud Devulder : DB BIstro Moderne Bar Chef Junior Merino : The Modern The format of the party was that each of the awardess were set up with a pushcart or equivalent arranged around the club, at which they would serve their own versions of haute cuisine street food. Each stand was paired with a specific beverage, the quality of which was uniformly excellent. Following are some photos of the pushcarts and the party. The view from the entrance to the party. I went to check my jacket and backpack and on my way back, tucked into a corner I discovered eGullet's own... Michael Laiskonis, Pastry Chef of Le Bernardin serving Unfortunately the Pastry chefs were tucked away into a back room. If I hadn't literally stumbled upon Michael, I would have missed him completely as I did the other Pastry chefs, Will Goldfarb and Jennifer Giblin. By the time I thought to go back, they had closed up shop. Gregory Brainin of Jean-Georges restaurants was serving Yellowfin Tuna Sashimi and Wasabi Ices paired with Sake, Sato no Homare, Sudo Honke Brewery, Ibaraki Japan. Galen Zamarra of Mas (Farmhouse) served tasty pork belly sandwiches. The Sunday prior I met Chef Zamarra at a pig roast on the North Fork of L.I.. He roasted a Flying Pigs Farm pig for a benefit for Slow Food. It too was awesome. I will post pics of that event shortly after I am done chronicling this one. Chef Zamarra with my good friend, Joe Bavuso (aka "JosephB") Iacopo Falai of Falai had quite the line. ...that should come as no surprise since he was serving foie gras cannoli in chocolate sauce and had to-go boxes too! Tony Esnault of Alain Ducasse served luscious lamb lollipops. Paul Liebrandt did a unique take on "Fish and Chips". I finally got a taste of his cooking. It left me wanting to return for more! Who doesn't care to have a little champagne? Zak Pelaccio's "fatty brisket" was a hit. Sam Mason and Zak Pelaccio having a laugh together. Joe Bavuso talks "brisket" with Zak Pelaccio. Franklin Becker of Brasserie and his totally decadent Foie Gras "Hot Dogs". Frederic Bau and Sergi Arola enjoying the party. Joe Bavuso, Ruben Garcia and Juan Sole stopping for a bite and a sip. Sole, Albert Adria, Mrs. and Mr. Ken Oringer and Frederic Bau. Sergi Arola amidst Will Blunt and Antoinette Bruno of Starchefs.com plenty more to come....

Sergi Arola - Sardines Five Ways Sergi Arola of La Broche in Madrid is originally from the Catalan town of Roses, otherwise known for its proximity to a certain restaurant by the name of El Bulli. Of course, Arola spent time working with the Adrias before being encouraged to start up on his own in Madrid. Chef Arola focused his demonstration on the sardine, his favorite ingredient as well as one that he feels "clearly defines Spanish gastronomy". In addition, it is an abundant food item that is generally accessible to the masses (at least in Spain ). He continued to show five different preparations of the sardine. Chef Arola prepping his sardines for the demonstration. While not bad, he felt the quality of these sardines were fairly mediocre. Ironically they looked to be about as good as I have ever seen retail in NYC. Nevertheless, they did pale besides those I have seen in Spanish markets like the Boqueria. If you look closely at the photos of Arola, you can spot his headphones. Besides cooking, the other element of his life that he is particularly into is music. prior to his current career he was a rock musician and still maintains interest and ties to that arena as will be evidenced later. Arola's assistant, George Mendes, setting up on stage just prior to the demo. Arola discussing the sardine's place in Spanish and world gastronomy. He gave his demo in English. Starting the demo he has his sardines resting within a bed of salt. He stuffs the sardines. Sears them with a blowtorch. Heats the underside of the pan. Prepares an accompaniment finishes it. and plates it. George Mendes with the plate just before... Chef Arola puts the finishing touches to it and serves... the finished plate! Taking questions from the audience. with sam Mason immediately after the demo. Sergi Arola being congratulated by his friend, Michael Stipe of R.E.M. Mendes and Stipe. Apparently as Arola is into rock music, Stipe is into food. Wylie Dufresne, Sergi Arola and Sam Mason celebrating a job well done. The didactic elements of the Congress now finished it was time to move on the the Rising Stars Review and after parties.

John, you are doing Brooklyn proud!

Davide Scabin - The Taste of Shape Davide Scabin and Will Blunt, V.P. and Managing Editor of Starchefs.com. Davide Scabin's, is an intellectual's chef. His discussion and demonstration focused on perceptual theory and its application to the world of dining and fine cuisine.. He and his crew demonstrated several unique dishes and platings that highlighted aspects of ergonomic form and dissociation of expected tastes, sensations and other sensory stimuli like shape and smell. This dissociation allows the diner to experience a dish in a new light and form. In his view certain shapes and presentations lead to particular expectations from the diner and a particular anticipation of the flavor of a dish. Perhaps his most well known creation is the Cyberegg. A passage from the Starchefs.com Congress program describes the concept well: Chef Scabin and his charming translator. Unfortunately I do not recall her name. Chef Scabin's assistant, Alessio creating a Cyberegg. Chef Scabin preparing a sample for a member of the audience. The audience member happened to be Johnny Iuzzini, Pastry Chef at Jean-Georges. I never did hear what his impression was. A Campari and Soda Cyberegg. I had the pleasure of trying one backstage. Firstly, it was a good drink, awell made Campari and Soda. The sensation was interesting and surprising. There was no scent at all when putting the Cyberegg into my mouth. As my teeth bit through the plastic there was a loud (to me) popping sound and a rush of fizzy, cool, flavorful liquid into my mouth. It was fun. While intellectual novelty and ideas appear to play a major role, by all accounts I have heard, his cuisine is much more than that. His restaurant Combal.Zero is Michelin starred. Not having had the pleasure of sampling Chef Scabin's cuisine beyond the Campari and Soda Cyberegg, I look forward to some time in the not-too-distant future of visiting Torino to get a much more in depth experience of his cooking.

Pray tell, what is on this delectable looking plate? It strikes me as a mole with guacamole. Was it as good as it looked?

Thank you, Eliot. I did have a load of fun. I hope the fact that this Congress was fun not only for me but for everyone else there I spoke with came through in the report. I didn't hear anything like that. Adria did address the question of copying and basically said that they didn't care if they were copied. They are very happy to be upfront about their dishes and their techniques and they hope to maintain the fair exchange of ideas and techniques within the world's kitchens.

Sam Mason - The Use of Hydrocolloids and Non-Traditional Ingredients in Desserts I have been quite fortunate to have enjoyed Sam Mason's desserts on a number of occassions at WD-50. They have always been, imaginative, unique, beautiful and above all delicious. Sam is known for using new techniques and ingredients atypical for the pastry pantryand for using them extremely well. He is currently at work readying his new restaurant at which he will prepare both savory and sweet ends of the menu. I suspect that given his history there will be some surprises along the way in what exists in either category. I missed the start of Sam's demo, but was there in time to photograph some of the technique that he used. Unfortunately, I missed the gyst of the description of what he was doing. Sam, Ted or anyone else with a firmer handle on the techniques that Sam was using, please feel free to describe what I photographed as I do not think that I can do it justice. All I know is that I am very much looking forward to dining at Sam's restaurant when it opens.