docsconz

For the record doc, I think Marcus S is a great chef, I love his restaurants and my intent wasnt to trash him but rather point to the fact that every few years, the publishing world decides "black is the new black" and promptly after that, nothing for 10 years. One of these days it will be. I think the time is right for the cuisines of Africa to catch on in the US in all their diversity. It has all the ingredients that the American dining public is hungry for...new ingredients, exotic locales, visual appeal, etc. I was floored by the cuisine in South Africa alone.

John, your discussion is very cogent. I am not nor have I been saying that the food industry is racist. It is probably one of the most open industries in America as regards to race and opportunity. My point is basically in agreement with a lot of what you say. Why there may be discrepancies between any particular groups populational proportion and their proportions in the food industry at various levels is a very complex question. That being said, I am sure that even though it may not be an inherently institutional problem, racism still exists within the industry as it does throughout society. The overt aspects of it are much improved over what they were and are likely much less significant than they used to be unless one happens to be the individual affected by it. You have provided at least some evidence for that. While it still exists and is deplorable, I agree that I don't think that is the most significant issue here or the most interesting. As I think Sneakeater wrote and I paraphrase, it is relatively easy to see and condemn these overt instances of racism. I have been using the term "direct." What I find more interesting are the underlying reasons for the discrepancies, what I have been calling "indirect." These are not necessarily malicious and don't even necessarily need to be acted on, but if they can be understood, than perhaps their true significance can be determined and any necessary actions taken.

If no-one is able to come up with it, I will keep an eye and an ear out for it at the WOF Conference in a couple of weeks with a number of the same players including Ferran. Better yet, why don't you ask Jose Andres in his eG Spotlight Discussion?

Absolutely marvelous, Arne! I love the photography and the descriptions. Is that a foam on the salad? The duck looks to be just perfect! Going back to the epoisses -one of my favorite cheeses- I asume that they were made with raw milk where you visited?

Just laziness.... I think it's quite odd that folks in these undeveloped countries seem to have no problem figuring things out with little or no access to public libraries or the Internet. But in any case.....not to get off topic, my point is that Samuelsson's cookbook is embarassing for anyone who claims to be "African". The motivation without clarification is suspicious and can just be sublimated into a marketing ploy by some clever book agent. Look at all these celebrities adopting "African" babies.......do they even specify where the kid is from ? Its just disgusting and the media isnt sophisticated enough to see through that. ← I'm not quite as cynical regarding Samuelsson's book. This topic was the essence of his demo at the ICC last month. He freely spoke of the fact that their is no such thing as a Pan-African cuisine. Nevertheless he approaches cuisines from different parts of Africa and is trying to draw attention to these different cuisines. Certainly from a marketing point of view it is, at this time in the US, much more likely to generate significant interest with such a broad-based theme than say more ethnically or regionally based approaches. The bottom line, as I see it, is that these cuisines need as much exposure as they can get in the US. Samuelsson considers the African Continent as the source of the next big thing. As the 80's and 90's brought "Asian" cuisine(s) into the forefront of the American dining imagination, he feels, and I don't disagree, that the next decade or so will be when African cuisines become widely discovered and appreciated in the US. He cited the wealth of special ingredients of African origen to be one of the principle reasons why as well as the quality of the various cuisines themselves. Perhaps their are others more expert than he, but I applaud his effort to bring attention to an area that deserves it.

Welome to eGullet, clokwurk. I agree with a lot of what you say, except I think now it is not Spanish wines in general that are met with skepticism, but perhaps wines of certain emerging regions within Spain. I fully agree on the value of most Spanish wines. Jose?

Nicely done and thanks for sharing! Have you used it yet? What are you using for fuel - obviously wood, but any particular kind? What time is dinner?

I believe tradition coooking has a lot to say and yu see this in barcelona. Tradition gives you a place to start, a language, a context for the modern........what is modern? Someone had to fry the first egg people maybe thought it was weird but look at us now........If you don't know tradicional ajoblanco how can you possibly understand what Dani Garcia does wiht nitrogen? Or what Ferran does with chicken curry? Or what I did to clam chowder or philly cheesesteak.......we need to know and respect tradition........Also my tradition is not necessarily your tradition, what is normal to me nothing special is WAO to you what is this? you might say......what i think people in Spain relize is not about choosing one or the other, there is place for both tradition and modernity....variety.......To me there is nothing better than carn d'olla or pa amb tomaquet sometimes it cotton candy foie gras I am sure many think like me ← Jose, I think along the same lines. I love traditional cuisines, but I also love creativity in cuisine. I don't understand people who can only exist with one or the other. One of the culinary elements I love so much about Spain, is that the traditional and the new do live so well together side by side. Your restaurants in Washington are the embodiment of that ideal in the United States, running the gamut from traditional cuisines to some of the most creative food on the planet. Having been to Italy and having caught the Slow Food fever there, I was surprised to discover that therre is not much of a presence of that organization in Spain. Given that Spain has such a strong presence of its traditional cooking and ingredients and that the modern is very much aware of its debt to tradition, do you have any insight into why that organization has not become more prominent in Spain or am I wrong about its prominence? Are there other Spanish organizations promoting sustainability, biodiversity and traditional methods?

Why Nougatine and not Jean-Georges?

Well We need to thank Santiago Martin from Embutidos Fermin in La Alberca, Salamanca, for investing the money to make this happen. Long process and not fun....... The good news is that the Embutidos, Spanish air-dry sausages, are here already, and that the Iberico ham will be available at the end of 2007 and the KING the Bellota Iberico ham will arrive in 2008........................... ← Jose, would you please explain the different classes of Spanish ham? What is the difference between serrano vs iberico vs bellota vs any other distinction?

why bother? buy a plane ticket to barcelona walk in the door and say you want to stage for a week, a month, however long ← I'm not so sure that it works quite like that at the restaurants in that auction item. The people I know who have staiged at places like El Bulli and Arzak had to fight like hell and have recommendations etc. I'm not saying that it is not possible with persistence, but things are always easier with money.

Exactly what I mean when I wrote about "indirect" racism. Echoing Bethala, well put, indeed.

What a fantastic report! Crosparantoux, you did an amazing job of bringing that meal to life for the rest of us. I will have to get to Masa one of these days. It sounds like now would be a great time if I could, but alas, I can't. Amazing descriptions of what surely was an amazing meal! Thank you.

Only those restaurants for which it would be possible to secure a reservation via Open Table should be there, so obviously El Bulli shouldn't. I would love to see in Catalunya, as a start, restaurants like El Celler de Can Roca, Sant Pau, Can Jubany, El Raco de Can Fabes, Aligue, Abac, Hisop, Alkimia, Cinc Sentits, Can Gaig, Hispania, Comerc 24, Moo and many others I can't think of off the top of my head. The list is equally large in other regions. Sorry for not following your format I love Open Table in the US and think it would make a fine export.

Thanks, Alexandra. Were you listening to him directly in Spanish or via the translators. If the former, were you able to get a sense of the adequacy of the translation?

Though I have never been to Ithaca, I have heard some good things about Lokelani as well.

Adria while intersting was so utterly consumed with trying to get the audience to understand his way of thinking about the world, (he mused over a glass of water for five minutes) and explain the way we MUST think about food in order to create...and how we must consider his body of work etc. It was all a bit much really, I wanted him to cut to what he was doing or had done a bit faster, perhaps I was a bit impatient as the day was wearing on. ← If anyone can speak to the way we must think about food in order to create it would be Adria. One may or may not agree with his stance, but I would think it would be very interesting and illuminating to hear his views on the matter. But then I may be biased as I admire his creativity very, very much. ← yeah I know, I find it hard to believe that I found him a bit boring. I just wanted him to be so much more. He reminded me of of those very excitable new teachers who just wanted to get the kids to like them and to see the simplicty behind the magic of science...I just didn't feel like he came to us on a very professional level. Most of know what he's been doing for the past year, so to introduce it like we'd have never seen it was a bit prosumptious. ← Who translated for him?

Lovely report, Jeff. Thanks. The place looks unique with its style and location. I will have to remember this if in the area.

I have a reservation for Redd. For the time being, unless somehow convinced otherwise, I will keep it. The only thing giving me any doubt is Melkor's lukewarm response to it, but then that might keep me from expecting too much and being disappointed I do appreciate the input I have received here and do not wish to discourage additional thoughts.

FWIW, the best cooking I have ever experienced from the hands of a black chef is also amongst the very best I have ever experienced. That chef is Shola Olunloyo of Studio Kitchen in Philadelphia fame. He is a remarkably talented and charismatic individual.

Wow...That's like asking what restaurant is most representative of NYC...but I get your drift. Truthfully, of the restaurants you've mentioned, and IN MY OPINION...Redd is the place you want to go...especially if you've never been. We've eaten there for both lunch & dinner 6+ times since they've opened, and they are consistently good. Dave's suggestioin of Martini House is also good, but I tend to think Richard is a bit more cutting edge than Todd is. I love Cindy's, Bistro Jeanty, and have been twice now to Go Fish, and am going again this Friday. Thay are all very good, but I know you've dined at The Laundry in the past and are doing so again, and, again IN MY OPINION, Richard Reddington is doing some of the most original food this side of The Laundry in the entire Napa Valley. I'd support Carrie's recommendation of Pilar, also, but her best dishes are "off the menu", and if you're bringing a friend, I'm not sure you want to do that. I think Redd is a brilliant choice. ← Thank you Sam. My curiosity is piqued. One question for you and others about Bouchon - I have no doubt it delivers wonderful bistro fare, but how does it compare to fine bistros elsewhere such as NYC or Paris? Is it significantly different and unique or is it simply an excellent example of the genre. Don't get me wrong, a great bistro is a wonderful thing wherever it is located, but can be found elsewhere.

I started to get excited about Martini House with their mushrooms and other wild, foraged ingredients until I discovered that they are only open for lunch on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

Adria while intersting was so utterly consumed with trying to get the audience to understand his way of thinking about the world, (he mused over a glass of water for five minutes) and explain the way we MUST think about food in order to create...and how we must consider his body of work etc. It was all a bit much really, I wanted him to cut to what he was doing or had done a bit faster, perhaps I was a bit impatient as the day was wearing on. ← If anyone can speak to the way we must think about food in order to create it would be Adria. One may or may not agree with his stance, but I would think it would be very interesting and illuminating to hear his views on the matter. But then I may be biased as I admire his creativity very, very much.

Thank you. That gives a very good idea. Some of these people will be at CIA Greystone for the Worlds of Flavors' "Spain and the World table" Conference next month. I will have to wait until then. Unfortunately, it is impossible for one person to see and experience everything there. I will do my best, though

No doubt!