dscheidt

I have one in my basement. No, wait. I have two in my basement, one of which is going back. What do you want examined? I doesn't come off. I looked at it, and was worried it would break if I poked at it too much. I'll take some measurements tomorrow.

People with bluestar: Does anyone know how hot do the sides of the range get? I'm in the market for a range, and the way our kitchen is arranged, the left side of the range is open to the room and the doorway to the kitchen. I'm worried someone (like my four year old) will burn themselves on it.

The deals aren't in the data [laces like CCC can get (without scraping the screen).

I have an assortment. I use cheap utility brushes (of black china bristle) for thick gloppy stuff (bbq sauce, etc) and better natural bristle brushes for pastry stuff where precision is important.

I spent several hours in the kitchen today, doing pretty mindless work that I've done before, I got to thinking about stuff that's in the kitchen (or at least used there) that wasn't specifically intended for kitchen use. Some things are pretty obvious, like a decent paint brush instead of a crappy and expensive 'pastry brush', or a plumber's torch for setting stuff on fire searing and browning. I've got a few things, like industrial filter cloths for sieving, but I wonder what others have and use. Here's the particular tool that got me thinking about this. Albion are a maker of stuff for dispensing caulk; I believe this is a tool for smoothing and shaping caulk joints. (I didn't buy it, I found it on a windowsill while walking around). I mostly use it as a screed, to strike measuring cups and spoons level.

the big advantage is that you can turn the faucet off, but leave the taps on. When you need to spay something, you just grab and squeeze. Works great, uses little water, and is generally superior to the normal set up (like you have, or an old-fashioned side sprayer) where you have to leave the water running out of the faucet to be able to use the sprayer. I expected my wife to hate the one that is currently installed (it came with the house), because I had tried hard to get her to let me replace the old places faucet with a pull down or pull out faucet, and she wouldn't let me. She decided she likes it, though she thinks the roto-flex behemoth in the basement is silly. (I fully admit it is overkill, but I got a smoking good deal on it, because it was old stock, not low-lead certified, and can't be installed in a commercial kitchen. we don't drink out of the faucet, so I don't care. It works great for all the utility cleaning things you do at a basement utility sink.)

I need to replace the faucet at our kitchen sink. It's currently got some unbranded chinese faucet, with a separate prerinse sprayer. I'm considering replacing it with a real commercial unit, possibly this one. I have a different style (mine has an add-on faucet) in my laundry sink, and really like it. Anyone have one in their home kitchen? We don't have a huge sink (two bowls, about 30" wide), so I think one with a short hose would be a good choice.

I had knife rack in cabinet door. Nothing ever fell off, and i'm not terribly gentle about closing them.

Inside an upper cabinet door?

@weinoo Looks great!

A roofer who was working on the roof of the shop I used to work in said "They are two kinds of flat roofs. The ones that leak today, and the ones that leak tomorrow."

In almost every market, you will not get your money out of doing repairs or upgrades. In some market conditions, a few small changes (paint is the most common, easy one) will make a house sell faster, but probably not for more money. If there is something like a leaking roof, though, fixing that will prevent damage, and is a selling point.

A magnetron that will work with an inverter power supply costs more; the power supply is somewhat less reliable. I think there are also complications with the fan that changes the resonance of the chamber (it exists to prevent hot spots). Panasonic's patents may still be in force, which complicates other manufacturer's efforts. I have one, and went to some effort to get one. I'd get another if it broke, but I'd replace it if I could find one that had a door that opened to the right...

Wait, you don't go to parties to talk about dielectric unions? You're missing out.

Walmart has good data people telling them what they can overcharge on. You think they have low prices, so you'll buy things without actually checking. Many places that advertise their low prices, or which have a reputation for having good prices, do the same thing.

The difference is that you probably drank the milk from one (or a small number of cows) cow. Commercially distributed milk is the commingled milk of many hundreds or thousands of cows. One infected cow contaminates the whole batch.

Don't show her these: http://www.highendhardware.ca/Scalimera-Toe-Kick-Ladder--BLACK-POWDER-COATING_p_21.html (I've been in a kitchen that had something similar in several places. The person who'd buiit it was very short, and she used them to use the counters!) We have a little two step folding step stool, stored next to the fridge, which is useful for me to get stuff off the top shelf in the panty (~7 feet, and I'm going to install another set on the other wall, above the door, which will be 7'6" or so.). My wife uses it for the lower shelves, too. My three year old uses it to reach the counter.

2 3/8" holesaw is the correct size, though your gasket is pretty nice.

Most places in the US, you simply cannot install a commercial stove in a residence, because the manufacturers do not list (certify they meet UL or other suitable national testing standards) them for that purpose, and the model fire code requires equipment to be listed for the use they're being used for. I did some network installation work at a lake mansion in Michigan about a decade ago. The owner had a giant commercial sectional range (10 feet long), a grill, and deep fryer installed. I asked the building dept inspector that was around about that, and he said the builder had paid for the equipment to be certified on-site, and had spent ~50K to do so. That didn't include the equipment, nor the hoods, fire suppression system, etc; just the engineering work and testing. The owner did not cook, the kitchen was for the staff brought in for parties. The previous mansion had a separate kitchen building, but he didn't want one there. (I also told the guy I was working for he should have charged more...)

They're about 100 bucks higher than the going rate for the 215, looks like. Didn't check other machines. I have had a 215 almost two years. Run a couple thousand bags through it. Works fine. I've changed the oil twice, and should probably do it again. Takes me about ten minutes, and the machine came with a decade's supply at my rate. the other difference between the 112 and 215 is the shape of the chamber. the 112 is not as deep, but it's wider, and use a 12" wide bag. (I think.) the 215 can take a 10".

The replacement product will have Chris Kimball's voice telling you it reached the point he thinks you should cook to, not what you programmed.

Features the vp215 doesn't have, that some other machines of the same physical size (but not price) do: 1) controls that let you pull a particular vacuum level (instead of just by time) 2) gas back filling 3) the ability to seal retort pouches After that, it's mostly size. I have a vp215. I want a bigger machine a lot more often that I want the others. (I also want my wife not to kill me in my sleep, so I have not looked at machines since I bought the vp215...)

I bought a Snap-wrap 7500 (or whatever it's actually called) a few years ago. When i brought it home, my wife yelled at me for buying something so stupid. Since then, we have given at least six as wedding presents, plus a few others to people who clearly needed one.

there are low temp models that use chemicals for sanitizing. Current ones even work well. There are also booster heaters that will heat the water from domestic temp to 180F.

The calculation for that is more complicated than you'd think. A lot depends on how much energy is used moving your water around. If you're in California, where water is pumped long distances and over mountains there's a lot of electricity in supplying your water (20% of all electricity used in California was used pumping water around, as of a few years ago.). Saving a few gallons of water can save more than the dishwasher takes to run. Temperature of hot water when it comes out of the tap maters, too. My hot water is 140 F, and the dishwasher doesn't heat it much if it all unless I run one of the sanitize cycles. If you wash dishes by hand in colder water, the dishwasher will use more electricity heating it up. Sewage disposal matters, as well.