Margaret Pilgrim

Note, also, that many bistros now offer the option of starter + plat or plat + dessert. They shouldn't complain were you to order starter + dessert. By the same token, I can conceive of ordering 4 starters for 2 people to share as a meal. Wine by the glass and you're set. It may be that inflation has necessitated ending the traditional requirement that a diner order at least three courses. I can remember when you risked life and limb if you declined dessert.

Do make time for lunch at Le Bistrot du Paradou, mentioned many times on eG. It remains my husband's quintessentially French experience. Perhaps mine also.

I think John's point was that we have here on eG some of the best, most current and most discriminating comment on dining in France. One does have to forage for the information, but I must salute John for his constant efforts to make the search easier.

Oh, yes. We endure this feature at our usual Paris hotel. In the country, however, most of the upscale chambre d'hotes have extremely good, state of the art showers, many with multi-jets, etc. As I continue to preach, we now try to stay with hosts who offer table d'hote, the "convivial"or family style evening meal. (Quite a few offer separate tables as in a restaurant, but we shun these when possible since they preclude much interaction with other guests as well as the hosts.)FWIW, using the hand-held shower is no problem so long as one is willing to turn a blind eye to a flooded bathroom. One moment's inattention and "there goes the neighborhood".

As Robyn says, a country has many layers and dimensions. We, even at our ages, scour the countryside and have been rewarded with experiences beyond our expectations. We seek out simple lodging, hopefully one that offers an evening meal. We are often told that we are the first Americans to visit, that the last American they met was a serviceman in the '40s, that we don't meet their expectations of the typical American. The French are eager to meet and entertain Americans. And, did I mention, their concept of hospitatlity is extraordinary and that they really know how to cook?

Something grim to think about: it was only on our last visit in March that the $/€ fiasco finally hit home. This was the first time that I really stopped to compute the exchange at the point of sale and realized that I could buy the same thing (yes, imported and same label) at home either more inexpensively or at the same price. Many import prices are set at the time of contract rather than time of landing, plus many companies, both foreign and American, are absorbing exchange differences to some extent. This is not to say that I let price dictate what I bought. If it was something that was not available here, I bought it regardless. But if it was something that I could readily find at home, I left it on the shelf. It also is worthwhile to shop import stuff at home before you go so that you have a sense of value once you get there.

Oh dear, John. I didn't read Carlux' post as a serious Paris putdown but as a reminder that there is indeed a lot of France to explore outside the Ile. And there is an ambiance in the country that is not found in town, as well as visa versa. Quite.FWIW, I, for one, would like to see this thread continued. This is exactly the kind of first hand information I crave.

Oh, yes! Another place that is a local favorite for extended family Sunday lunch is (thank you, Graham Tigg) Auberge de Saugras, between Montpelier and St. Martin de Londres (more specifically, between Viols le Fort and Vailhauquoes). This restaurant is so far off the beaten track that it gives special meaning to "destination restaurant". As I remember, it was a little more expensive than those you discuss, but a bargain in terms of country civility and local charm, probably around 100 euros for 3 very good courses, wine and coffee. I've been trying to find an itinerary that begs us to spend the night in one of their upstairs rooms.

Well, to be honest I much prefer homemade. But Damman had become a kind of late-afternoon treat: after slogging all over town much of the day, we'd wind our way to Damman, then take the 24 or 27 straight back to our hotel and a nap. Of course, Berthillon is good. But the line and attitude at Berthillon was such a turn-off that it was always a happy/sad treat. Damman was gentle and civilized.

I am some 9 months late to respond to your post, Felice. I wish I had seen it earlier as we were devastated to find Damman clossed on our last visit in March. (I tried unsuccessfully to retrieve this thread at the time.) We are very interested in learning whether Dammon continues to make and distribute his fine product in Paris. I am not at all sure that it is available at the ice cream wagon in the Tuileries. For the last year or so it has been hosted by Paul. Any news of Dammon as we speak?

LE PETIT VANVES 34 avenue victor hugo 92170 Nogent-Sur-Marne Téléphone : 01 46 42 13 46 Métro(s) : malakoff - plateau de vanves, ligne 13

Hint: Check Patricia Wells' Bistrot Cooking from your local public library and find the quite acceptable recipe for "Canard aux Olives Chez Allard". It really is a rather good dish, not difficult to make at home and you won't have to suffer the tourist ambiance or prices of Allard.

I second Les Papilles. If you take the PC2 (west) at Porte Doree and transfer to the 27 bus (north), you will have almost door-to-door service.

We were in London for the hurricane and on the plane heading home during the market crash. Yes, a memorable week.

I have to agree that the determining factors of our most memorable French meals have been companions and situation more than startling food: being invited to a private home for a meal among friends; sharing the table d'hote in the country with guests from a handful of different countries; being served local specialties prepared with great care from family recipes, simple but correct dishes. Even the restaurant meals that we recall most often are ones one would consider "sympa" rather than haute. If I had to choose just one meal, it would be the one we were served on the first night of their season at Hotel/Restaurant Arce in Saint-Etienne-Baigorry in Pay Basque. We were the only guests. The evening began with champagne and hors d'oeuvres in front of a roaring fire. We moved into the dining room for a perfect if simple meal served by the most charming and professional waitperson. I vividly see her now in her classic black dress, starched white apron and cap. All stops were pulled for just the two of us, alone in the cavernous, candlelit formal dining room. Coffee and after-dinner drinks were again in front of the fire. This hotel has been in the same family for generations, and hospitality was evident in every detail. (Bush had invaded Iraq during the previous night, and our hosts were most kind and supportive of our uncertainty and concern.)

A very interesting and good point.

You introduce some interesting points, one of which is the difference between destination dining and travel dining.

We recently spent three nights at this comfortable chambre d'hote located in the Ardeche wine country and convenient to visiting the Ardeche Gorge. Brigitte Bonnefin's hilltown home sits at the crest of the village of Bessas with a commanding view in all directions, as far west as Lozere. Madame Bonnefin is a warm hostess and excellent cook, especially proud of her baking which included apple cake and lighter-than-air brioche at breakfast and this extradinarily delicious tarte at one night's dinner: Ingredients: 1 recipe pie dough, pate sablee or puff pastry 450 gr chestnut creme 3 eggs 25cl creme fraiche 1 to 2 tablespoons chestnut liqueur Separate the eggs and beat the whites until stiff. Beat the yolks into the chestnut creme, creme fraiche and liqueur. Gently fold in the whites. Fit the dough into a tart pan, add the filling and bake 30 minutes in an oven preheated to 355 degrees. (Madame Bonnefin adds that you can replace the chestnut creme with fruit preserves or add small pieces of fruit (eg pear) to the chestnut filling.) She also introduced us to a delicious local late harvest viognier which she served as aperitif but which was perfect also with the above tart. From Bessas, one can easily visit the winery to buy Vendanges d'Octobre, Reserve. A superb dessert, lovely wine, good address.

From the website, I get the sense that they do a combination tasting and dinner. You can certainly ask him. He and Pascale are very willing hosts.

We picked a winner when we decided to stay with Pascale and Philippe Nusswitz at their extraordinarily hospitable La Bruguiere in Durfort in the Languedoc wine region. Our suite, the Magnanerie, a converted silkworm dormatory, was spacious and comfortable, with a king-sized bed on a mezanine. But without question the best part was Philippe's warm reception and Pascale's delicious and generous table. The evening meal started with aperitifs around the fireplace and went on to a well thought out four course dinner accompanied, course by course, by appropriate wines from their estate. Conversation see-sawed between French and English, but Pascale's plates provided a universal language. All this for 85€ (low season) per night for two people, room and lavish breakfast and 30€ per person for a four hour dinner. We've already booked for next year, and were devastated that we had room for so few bottles of their excellent wine in our luggage. Pascale and Philippe are hosts extraordinaire. (In her early career Pascale became enthralled with hosting when she was affiliated with "Relais & Châteaux", and Philippe has a long history with wine, having been elected "Meilleur Sommelier de France 1986" and having spent considerable time working with Paul Bocuse.) This is a lovely address.

Your Auberge does sound good! Many thanks. (We were introduced to your "chicken liver foie gras" last year in the Jura. It is indeed excellent and quite difficult to find offered on a menu.)

Fascinated by the idea of This' influence at bistro level, we visited Lena and Mimile Monday evening. As there was a large American celebratory party in the main dining room, we and other non-related parties were seated in the small bar dining area. I poured over the menu to find the This page, but it wasn't there. It appears that this menu is offered only on certain days (Tuesday through Thursdays) and possibly only seasonally (October through February). Without getting into detail, our choices from the regular menu were adequately prepared but wouldn't cause us to return. Servings were quite large, too large for us: probably 200 gr slab of marinated salmon as starter, huge 1/2" thick grilled cut of leg meat for the gigot d'agneau. I also want to comment on Racines. It is exactly as has been described. Every time we have passed by, the slate has listed several great sounding dishes. But it is a crap-shoot. On the night we visited, the choices were andouillette, veal chop and pasta with chicken. For starter, I ordered boudin with apples which was served in a large round atop greens. Excellent. The pasta was probably the right order, but I chose the andouillette and my husband the veal chop. Both came completely unadorned. Naked on the plate. I asked for mustard but they didn't have any. I have probably consumed my weight in andouillette, but this was the first one that was completely on its own. I cleared my palate with a huge slab of chocolate cake. I wished that I lived closeby so I could call to find what they are cooking that night and ask for a table. I wish that tables were usually avaliable on that basis. It's a sweet room, and service was darling. The next time we passed, osso buco was on the menu.

Because? They will have that esoteric and impossible to find bottle? Obscure vintnors? Keen matching of wine to client? Value on same bottles? I need biggest and most comprehensive because...I am not being argumentative, just wondering what I will find by crossing town. It is actually a straight shot on the 95 bus, connecting with the 60 at Mark Dormoy. Almost door-ro-door service from/to our hotel.

Stumbling on a robust market in unlikely Allemagne-en-Provence at lunchtime, I was delighted to find a roaster with more than the usual assortment of meats for sale in picnic size portions. I pointed to the morsels I wanted, and the seller announced, "You are American!" I asked him how he knew. "The English won't eat bunnies," he answered, and with a huge smile handed me my delicious and memorable lunch.

We have had many extraordinary and no bad recommendations from Le Derniere Goute. One on one discussion of your preferences is normal.