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fifi

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Everything posted by fifi

  1. Oh dear . . . I fear that I have more than one personality. In a complex recipe or one not so complex that I am doing the first time, I am a mise en place type all the way. I actually enjoy seeing all of the little glass bowls lined up in order of need. And, of course, there are some types of cooking that demand it, such as gumbos and stir fries. I also find that doing things in order like that gives me those few extra minutes to indulge in my clean-as-you-go mania. Now, there is no way in hell I could go so far as to plan menus for a week. I rarely plan more than one day ahead and that may be because I have to brine or marinate something overnight. I like to sit down with a recipe, read it through a few times. I visualize how I will execute it while making my shopping list. If I am doing several dishes/courses I actually have to have a timeline to pull it off. Then there are soups, stews, curries, pasta dishes and such that are a spur of the moment thing 'cause I am cleaning out the fridge. Not a cute little bowl in sight.
  2. As soon as I get that tagine cured, and get my flame tamer, I am going to try some of the recipes that Smithy references. I am thinking that clay pot cooking with eggplant will be a winner.
  3. Well, while I wouldn't say that the article is all that well written, I can see the premise of taking a peek into someone's lifestyle that may not be all that familiar to the readership. The fascinating thing about people, and the reason that articles like this get published, is that we can be so different. That is the point that I see. I don't find it odd at all that most folks on this site can't imagine living like that and might disparage the lifestyle. But, I can relate. I may have some problems relating to folks that make NAASCAR or Harley Davidsons the main focus of their life. But I do have acquaintenances that work hard at the tailgating menu for a race or cruise on their hogs looking for good eats. Folks don't have to have all of the same interests for me to find them interesting. Like therese said, the lady would probably make a great guest for a dinner party.
  4. fifi

    Spring Radishes

    Greenwich st tried the braised radishes in the Braising with Molly thread here. I have never heard of such a thing and took a look at the recipe. It is really just cooking them in a covered skillet with butter, chicken stock, a bit of sugar, s&p. Then you take the lid off and let them glaze. I guess I have never eaten a cooked radish. Now I am curious. Last year about this time, the radishes were really pretty and their greens were prettier. My sister was over and we were playing with my new toy, a Kitchen Aid food processer. She had snapped up a couple of bunches of radishes because of the greens. We made a pesto in the mini-bowl with the greens, a little garlic, lemon juice and olive oil. It was great spread on saltines. I second the radish sandwiches and fish tacos.
  5. I actually went through a several-year hiatus on cooking. I was living alone, the teenage kids were living with the ex and his wife. I was traveling ferociously. I was at a place in my career where it was all consuming. I didn't have room in my life to sustain another interest, or a pantry. I did a financial analysis and I was spending too much money trying to cook. When that unexpected trip gets extended for a week, that stuff you bought has to be thrown out. Oh . . . I might help with a holiday dinner at my sister's or mom's house. But my housekeeper used to laugh about having to dust the stove. If friends had me over for dinner, I reciprocated by taking them out. Lunch was my main meal. I snacked for dinner, fruit, cheese or whatever. I might nuke a Lean Cuisine in an emergency. Breakfast on weekends was a bagel and cream cheese or kolaches from the kolache shop. It is doable and if you are careful, doable healthy. I really didn't miss cooking during that period. Then my son moved back in to finish college. We sold the condo, bought the house, and I started cooking again. The best part of the scenario was that, having spent the time securing my career, I could now go nuts buying toys to cook with. Getting back into it was sort of like riding a bicycle. Granted, I was shaky at first on some of the trickier techniques like a dark roux, but I was soon back in form. It didn't hurt that my son likes to cook and he has plenty of bottomless pit friends that like to eat. I can see the point of the article.
  6. It is only about 3 miles south on 146 to the red light at hwy 646. (I am a terrible judge of distance.) You turn left at the light. You are now in Bacliff. Keep going until you are at a blinking light. Clifton by the Sea is right in front of you. If you keep going toward the water and turn left you will come to Noah's Ark Grill. Back at the blinking light. You take a right and are now on East Bayshore Drive (still 646). As you drive along the bay is on your left. You will pass a big park built around what used to be the cooling water outfall for the Reliant energy plant that you see off to the west. It is shut down now. I hope that doesn't ruin what was an excellent fishing spot in the winter. Keep on going. That really really really huge mansion on the left belongs to one of the ZZ Tops. Dusty, I think. Keep going until you get to a blinking light. On your right at the corner is the infamous Wayne-O's. Take a right. You are now on 9th street in San Leon. Just past that intersection on the right is Gilhooley's. This is one of Robb Walsh's favorite "joints." Keep going on 9th street. It dead ends in the parking lot of Topwater. About halfway down 9th street you will go through a blinking light. To get to Wrecker's you take a right and follow the signs. That is the tour of the options south of Kemah. I am thinking it takes about 15 minutes to get to Topwater from the Seabrook/Kemah bridge. Back on the Seabrook side of the bridge is where you will find Outriggers. Use the link. Print the map. You will need it. The same is true for Sundance Grill. The B4-U-EAT crowd really slams Sundance on service. And it is pricey but the view is quite nice. Joe Lee's is on the Kemah side down the road to League City/South Shore Harbor. Again, the map link is your friend. I haven't been to Joe Lee's in a long time. Fertitta bought out his original place on the channel years ago. I haven't been in the new place since it opened. I will have to stop in for some of that shrimp salad.
  7. Welcome to the Society, Kadija. What snowangel said. I think it is about the acid. I have a friend that uses yogurt instead of buttermilk. I intend to try that one of these times. When brining, which is actually what you are doing in the salt and buttermilk, you do need to be careful about adding salt. When I did the drumettes I reduced the salt a bit since the pieces are smaller. Also, I wasn't sure about the salt content of the sriracha. A bit less salt won't hurt. While you are exploring the site, you might check in on the eGullet Culinary Institute (eGCI) course on brining.
  8. fifi

    Cooking my Goose

    WOW! $70 for a goose? Where did you find that? I see frozen goose all the time in the grocery. I don't recall them being any more expensive that say, duck or capon.
  9. Marlene, your comment about chicken skin is the reason I have reverted to removing the skin when braising. Well, that is not entirely true. If I am planning ahead to reheat the braise before serving, I may include the skin in the first braise. Sort of like I did here. You get the gelatin and flavor but avoid the flabby mess in the final serving. But my new friend is the boneless, skinless chicken thighs that are newly available. If I am not planning ahead, these work admirably. Snowangel, I agree. You can't have too many poblanos. I did up the amount as well. Now, a voice of dissention. I don't know that I have never put braising "on the shelf" (so to speak) with the arrival of warm weather. I am a low slow type of cook for the most part. I am too inattentive to do well with a hot grill. Summer brings smoking adventures and throwing things into the oven or crockpot while off on an adventure, arriving home to a meal. In Houston, our air conditioners are raised on steroids so I just crank it down if the oven has to be on. Actually, Lily Mae's Chicken speaks to me of impending summer. She would make it for large parties at the manse north of Lake Pontchartrain. The first party was always Mother's Day. But then, in this climate we really don't have as much of a seasonal influence that more northern climes have.
  10. fifi

    Cooking my Goose

    Jackal10's suggestion about stuffing with potatoes reminds me of my goose adventure one Christmas. A Cajun friend let me in on his family recipe for goose. Basically, you stuff it with well seasoned potatoes, quartered into chunks. Then you line the bottom of the pan with more potatoes. The well seasoned goose is then wrapped in bacon. (In many forms of Cajun cookery, "well seasoned" means more spices than you think is sane.) Well, I did all of this. The bird was artfully wrapped in bacon. Think the intricate mummy wrappings that you see in The British Museum. The star of the show later emerged from the oven as the most gorgeous goose known to man. The bacon and skin was wonderfully crisp and lovely. But . . . Good Lord, the fat! Can you say confit of potato? I have a sneaking suspicion that the recipe was intended for a lean goose, recently shot. I did have the presence of mind to save the ocean of fat for sauteing veggies and more potatoes.
  11. Braised Chicken, Picadillo Style Serves 4 as Main Dish. This recipe is a result of devising a braised chicken recipe to approximate the flavors of a recipe that my dad worked on interminably. He had seen a recipe for a stew called Picadillo in a magazine or book or something and was intrigued with it. After several trials, he developed his own recipe that was truly magical. I wanted to capture the flavor and essence of his work in a braised chicken recipe and I think this is it. 2 T olive oil 2 T chicken fat (could use butter) 8 Chicken thighs, about 3 ½ pounds, skinless or not (see notes) Kosher salt, to taste 1/2 c all purpose flour 1-1/2 tsp teaspoons paprika, I used Pimenton de la Vera 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground black pepper 1 c onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, sliced 1-1/2 c white wine 1/4 c white wine vinegar 1/2 c green olives thickly sliced (I used a spiced version) 1 T capers in vinegar, rinsed Rind from ½ preserved lemon, rinsed and diced Garnish Toasted almond slivers White raisins, plumped in white wine In a large skillet, start to heat the olive oil and chicken fat. Lightly salt the chicken thighs. Keep in mind that olives and such will be adding salt. In a large zip type plastic bag (I use a 2 gallon), mix the flour, paprika, cumin and black pepper. Put the chicken thighs in and toss to coat. Shake off excess flour and put into the pan to brown, skin side down. Brown well. Turn and brown the other side. Remove to a plate. Sauté the onion in the pan and begin to deglaze with the onion. When the onion is translucent, add the garlic and cook a few more minutes. Add the wine and vinegar and stir to get all of the brown bits into the liquid. Add the olives, capers and finely diced preserved lemon. In the braising pot, distribute the liquid mixture over the chicken pieces. Liquid should come about half way up the chicken. Braise at 250 degrees for about 2 ½ hours or until the chicken is meltingly tender. Remove the skin and refrigerate the thighs with the braising liquid. The next day, reheat the braise starting in a cold oven, setting the temperature to 250 degrees F. In about 30 to 45 minutes, the dish should be at serving temperature. Serve with rice and garnish with the plumped white raisins and toasted almonds. Notes: If you are not going to hold over for the second day, start with skinless chicken. Braised chicken skin is not necessarily pleasant. The two day process has the advantage of adding some gelatin and flavor to the final dish but is not essential. In the two day method, I have reserved the chicken skin and crisped it under the broiler, using the “chicken cracklin’s” as a part of the garnish. This is the recipe that I used in the eGCI recipe trial here. Keywords: Main Dish, Intermediate, Chicken, Lunch, Dinner ( RG1196 )
  12. Braised Chicken, Picadillo Style Serves 4 as Main Dish. This recipe is a result of devising a braised chicken recipe to approximate the flavors of a recipe that my dad worked on interminably. He had seen a recipe for a stew called Picadillo in a magazine or book or something and was intrigued with it. After several trials, he developed his own recipe that was truly magical. I wanted to capture the flavor and essence of his work in a braised chicken recipe and I think this is it. 2 T olive oil 2 T chicken fat (could use butter) 8 Chicken thighs, about 3 ½ pounds, skinless or not (see notes) Kosher salt, to taste 1/2 c all purpose flour 1-1/2 tsp teaspoons paprika, I used Pimenton de la Vera 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground black pepper 1 c onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, sliced 1-1/2 c white wine 1/4 c white wine vinegar 1/2 c green olives thickly sliced (I used a spiced version) 1 T capers in vinegar, rinsed Rind from ½ preserved lemon, rinsed and diced Garnish Toasted almond slivers White raisins, plumped in white wine In a large skillet, start to heat the olive oil and chicken fat. Lightly salt the chicken thighs. Keep in mind that olives and such will be adding salt. In a large zip type plastic bag (I use a 2 gallon), mix the flour, paprika, cumin and black pepper. Put the chicken thighs in and toss to coat. Shake off excess flour and put into the pan to brown, skin side down. Brown well. Turn and brown the other side. Remove to a plate. Sauté the onion in the pan and begin to deglaze with the onion. When the onion is translucent, add the garlic and cook a few more minutes. Add the wine and vinegar and stir to get all of the brown bits into the liquid. Add the olives, capers and finely diced preserved lemon. In the braising pot, distribute the liquid mixture over the chicken pieces. Liquid should come about half way up the chicken. Braise at 250 degrees for about 2 ½ hours or until the chicken is meltingly tender. Remove the skin and refrigerate the thighs with the braising liquid. The next day, reheat the braise starting in a cold oven, setting the temperature to 250 degrees F. In about 30 to 45 minutes, the dish should be at serving temperature. Serve with rice and garnish with the plumped white raisins and toasted almonds. Notes: If you are not going to hold over for the second day, start with skinless chicken. Braised chicken skin is not necessarily pleasant. The two day process has the advantage of adding some gelatin and flavor to the final dish but is not essential. In the two day method, I have reserved the chicken skin and crisped it under the broiler, using the “chicken cracklin’s” as a part of the garnish. This is the recipe that I used in the eGCI recipe trial here. Keywords: Main Dish, Intermediate, Chicken, Lunch, Dinner ( RG1196 )
  13. Paprika Chicken I came up with this about 15 years ago. I have no idea why other than it seemed like a good idea at the time. It was. Discussion with some friends recently brought it back to mind. As simple as it is, it is incredibly delicious. As you might expect, the paprika is the star here so use a good one. My standard is the Szeged Hungarian Sweet. I sometimes add a bit of the hot. Adding some smoked is also a good idea. It is interesting to experiment with the variations so please see the notes below. This basic recipe is the simplest rendition. 4 medium yellow onions Salt 8 boneless skinless chicken thighs (bone in is ok, just get rid of the skin) 1/2 cup paprika Peel onions, slice in half vertically and then into slices about ¼ inch thick. In a heavy Dutch oven, line the bottom with the onion strips. Lightly salt the thighs. Place them in a large zipper top baggie, for 8 thighs a 2 gallon is most convenient. Pour in the paprika and toss around, evenly coating the thighs. The coating will be heavy. Lay the thighs in a single layer on top of the onions. Put the lid on and put into a 275F oven for 2 to 3 hours. (See alternate cooking methods below.) Remove the chicken and set aside. It should be falling apart tender. The amount of liquid can be quite variable and unpredictable depending on the amount of water in the onions. If there is too much liquid, move the pot to the stove top and reduce down to a consistency that you like. Serve over egg noodles, spaetzle, or rice. Notes: Experiment with the many varieties of paprika. Thicken the liquid with sour cream. Add a little garlic powder, just not too much. If you want to go shopping, this can also be done in a crock pot on high for about 4 hours or low for about 6. Timing isn’t critical. When it gets fall apart tender it is done and you can’t really overcook it. (Well, I guess you could forget about it and cremate it.) Leftovers make great sandwiches, salads, quesadillas, tacos and burritos. For that reason I usually make 8 but this is easily halved in a smaller pot to serve 2. For that I use my 2 ½ quart Le Creuset. You can use breast but it isn’t as good. You can also use miscellaneous chicken parts. Whatever you do, remove the skin. It just blocks the paprika flavor from permeating the meat and is a soggy mess that isn’t very appetizing. Alternate cooking methods: Crock pot on low 5 to 6 hours Crock pot on high 3 to 4 hours Heavy pot in 250 F oven 3 to 4 hours Check out the Confessions of a paprika addict. Keywords: Main Dish, Easy, Chicken ( RG1194 )
  14. Paprika Chicken I came up with this about 15 years ago. I have no idea why other than it seemed like a good idea at the time. It was. Discussion with some friends recently brought it back to mind. As simple as it is, it is incredibly delicious. As you might expect, the paprika is the star here so use a good one. My standard is the Szeged Hungarian Sweet. I sometimes add a bit of the hot. Adding some smoked is also a good idea. It is interesting to experiment with the variations so please see the notes below. This basic recipe is the simplest rendition. 4 medium yellow onions Salt 8 boneless skinless chicken thighs (bone in is ok, just get rid of the skin) 1/2 cup paprika Peel onions, slice in half vertically and then into slices about ¼ inch thick. In a heavy Dutch oven, line the bottom with the onion strips. Lightly salt the thighs. Place them in a large zipper top baggie, for 8 thighs a 2 gallon is most convenient. Pour in the paprika and toss around, evenly coating the thighs. The coating will be heavy. Lay the thighs in a single layer on top of the onions. Put the lid on and put into a 275F oven for 2 to 3 hours. (See alternate cooking methods below.) Remove the chicken and set aside. It should be falling apart tender. The amount of liquid can be quite variable and unpredictable depending on the amount of water in the onions. If there is too much liquid, move the pot to the stove top and reduce down to a consistency that you like. Serve over egg noodles, spaetzle, or rice. Notes: Experiment with the many varieties of paprika. Thicken the liquid with sour cream. Add a little garlic powder, just not too much. If you want to go shopping, this can also be done in a crock pot on high for about 4 hours or low for about 6. Timing isn’t critical. When it gets fall apart tender it is done and you can’t really overcook it. (Well, I guess you could forget about it and cremate it.) Leftovers make great sandwiches, salads, quesadillas, tacos and burritos. For that reason I usually make 8 but this is easily halved in a smaller pot to serve 2. For that I use my 2 ½ quart Le Creuset. You can use breast but it isn’t as good. You can also use miscellaneous chicken parts. Whatever you do, remove the skin. It just blocks the paprika flavor from permeating the meat and is a soggy mess that isn’t very appetizing. Alternate cooking methods: Crock pot on low 5 to 6 hours Crock pot on high 3 to 4 hours Heavy pot in 250 F oven 3 to 4 hours Check out the Confessions of a paprika addict. Keywords: Main Dish, Easy, Chicken ( RG1194 )
  15. No, you don't have to drive through it. You will see it from the Hwy 146 bridge, though. Here is the map link to Topwater Grill. You can start there and zoom out to see where that is in relation to Kemah. That will also help you find the other places listed in the article.
  16. AH HA! By George, I think you've got it! Who the heck is George? OK, sometimes Aunt Minnie would put the lid on after putting pieces in. I think maybe it was when she was doing more of a batch deal than cycling in like I did last time. As I hit myself upside the head . . . Of course. The lid will keep in the heat and let it recover better. Duh! Chicken friers of the world, we are closing in on this one. Susan, your chicken is just gorgeous. Of course, I am not sure this will solve my electric coil schizophrenic cycling. Next time, I am going to my sisters and cook with gas.
  17. On the subject of courses in macro photography, or any other type for that matter, I highly recommend finding one in your area. I had the great good fortune to stumble onto a macro course some years ago at Rocky Mountain National Park. It was taught by this great team, Wendy Shattil and Bob Rosinski. It was a small class, about 12. Some folks camped out. I, of course, chose a motel room in Estes Park. We spent 3 days groveling in the dirt taking pictures of the most amazing small things. The height of the trip was in the alpine meadow at the top of Trail Ridge. Bob and Wendy were exceptional teachers. They were fun and informative in the extreme. I have recently rediscovered my pages of notes on some of the techniques that I learned and equipment tips. I would love to find a similar opportunity that focuses on food and has an equally esteemed teacher(s). (Wendy and Bob have several books and have worked for National Geographic.) I also, of course, need to work on the leap to digital and Photoshop. I learned more in that three days than a bookshelf full of books.
  18. Sorry, I don't have a clue about the wall ovens. There wasn't just one discussion on the ranges so I didn't supply a link. I am going with Monogram because of service issues in our area but I don't have a wall oven so didn't research it.
  19. Just in case folks not from these parts want to know what this is all about, check it out here. They have added more rides since the picture was taken. When I have had visitors request going there, there are usually some older kids in tow. They seem to enjoy the carnival like atmosphere. The adults generally hide out in one of the "downstairs" places and order something fairly dependable like a seafood taco or po'boy that will be ok. Not great . . . but ok.
  20. fifi

    Scalded Milk?

    I had forgotten about that trick. That is just what she would do until she got her first non-stick pan. From then on, it was a continuous search for the ideal milk pan that was going to change her life forever.
  21. fifi

    Smoked Pork Shoulder

    If it is smoked isn't it already cooked? I am thinking just put it in a covered pot, put some sort of glaze on it and warm it up like you would a ham. Given where you are, maple syrup might be good.
  22. fifi

    Scalded Milk?

    The way my mil did it is the only way I have ever known. Yes, it does taste different. It doesn't really look any different. Here is another mystery . . . When you pour the coffee and milk into the cup at the same time, it tastes still different. I have no clue why.
  23. fifi

    [DFW] Zorba's

    So . . . How did all of those restaurants in France handle this so elegantly? So, what is a corporate customer to do? The corporate and IRS rules that drive the corporate rules have to be dealt with. The reason this is a problem is that the IRS takes a dim view of lunch or dinner expenses for persons in the same company being claimed as an "entertainment" or "business meal" expense. And, those are the only categories that a single check for a group meal will fit. In a lot of corporations, what the secretaries (excuse me, Administrative Assistants) actually do is less and less. That leaves the poor corporate schlep to figure out how to do this. I have to say that when hosting a group meal, the issue has never been who ate or drank what. It has always been how to get it into the expense account software and receipt records. I see this whole thing as a service that is needed, driven by forces out of the control of the customer. Though I have no clue as to the tax rules in France, they seem to have figured this out.
  24. fifi

    Scalded Milk?

    Ah . . . I can help you there. Years ago, I learned this technique from my ex mother-in-law. Scalded milk was always served with the coffee. I was living in New Orleans. This is also the milk that is poured with the coffee at Cafe du Monde. You pour some whole milk, not the low fat stuff, into a heavy sauce pan. Leave plenty of room in the pan. Over medium heat, bring it up to a full boil. It will rise way up in the pan. Remove from the heat and let it cool. I remember when Teflon lined pans became common, my mil was in heaven. Properly scalded milk will leave a hard to clean film on the bottom and sides of a pan.
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