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Anonymous Modernist 10

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  1. Jmwb said:

    I'm looking at a refrigerated high-capacity centrifuge which is rated for somewhat lower rpms:

    10000 rpm

    19800 g

    for 6 ƒâ€”500ml

    or

    7000 rpm

    11000 g

    for 6 ƒâ€”1000ml

    A number of other centrifuges are cheaper but only spin to 4000g at 3L.

    What's the implications and adequacy for tasks such as creating pea butter or carrot butter? Are there certain separations that can''t be performed at lower Gs?

    Unfortunately, no, the cheaper ones won't give you a good yield. You want about 10k RPM at 90 to 120 minutes.

  2. Robert Jueneman said:

    Judy said:

    We have five different recipes for fries in MC (pommes pont-neuf, pectinase-steeped, starch-infused, ultrasonic, and ultrasonic starch-infused).

    Has anybody done and taste-tests? Which is your favorite?

    I've done the triple-cooked Heston Blumenthal pommes pont-nuef, and served them with his mushroom ketchupwith great success. However,the recent update from Maxine Billet is going to inspire me to try some of the other variations, including brining the potatoes before sealing them, and the starch infusion process.

    A couple of comments, however.

    1. MC suggest par-boiling the fries for 20 minutes. I find that despite being at 7000 ft, that is too long, the Russet potatoes I use fall apart too easily. I've reduced the time to 15 minutes.

    2. Vacuum cooling and drying sometimes makes my chamber vacuum go into an error condition, because it can't reach the 99% level when the fries are still moist. I've had to reduce the vacuum percentage to 95% for the first couple of cycles.

    3. For reasons that I don't understand, there isn't an electric deep fryer on the market that will go above 202C/395F. I recently bought the Krups Professional, which does an admirable job of filtering out the grease smell with the charcoal filter, but it doesn't get quite hot enough. However, getting out a Le Crueset pan and doing it on the stove top without a thermometer is just too much of a pain, so I end up cooking them a little longer on the second fry step.

    4. I'm presently using Crisco vegetable oil rather than the peanut oil I used to use. I filter the oil after each use, using a paint filter from the hardware store with a cheesecloth-like gauze filter at the bottom to get with of any residue. A coffee filter was just too slow.

    Now a question/challenge for the MC staff: Dow Chemical, in their Product Selection Guide for METHOCEL Food Gums (
    ), page 8, recommends METHOCEL A15 FG or E19 FG at a 0.5-2.5% use level for "French Fry Dipping Solutions."

    The benefits are said to be that Thermal gelation reduces batter blowoff (whatever that might be), and extends the life of cooking oils; and freeze/thaw stability helps prevent batters from cracking and loosening on frozen foods.

    Has anyone tried methylcellulose for such an application (I haven't)? Would it only be useful when making frozen french fries for commercial use? How about when making the starch-infused fries?

    It appears from the cartoons above the text on that page that it should be useful for "Krispy Fries" and also fried shrimp.

    Bob

    It prevents oil absorption, forming a membrane around the fries. One of the benefits with batter is that it will set the batter right away.

  3. kdavin said:

    Can a broken potato puree be fixed? During the final step when I was whisking the sieved baked potatoes into the potato juice-butter mixture the butter separated from the potato. I believe this was the result of the potato juice-butter mixture that was too hot.

    Try adding a couple of tablespoons of cream, slowly, while whisking. You could also drain the fat and slowly drizzle in butter on the stove top. Another option might be to use egg yolk as an emulsifier.

  4. Joe Lipinski said:

    Max,

    Can you use calcium chloride for tofu making? I know that gypsum or calcium sulfate is sometimes used but I haven't heard of calcium chloride being used.

    P.S. You guys are really awesome!

    Hi Joe,

    Yes, you really can. There is a downside though. It will be more bitter, especially if you are making a softer tofu.

  5. janine said:

    I have recently started my own ice cream business, but make a point of not using any flavourants, colourants or chemicals, only natural ingredients. How can I crate a bubblegum flavour?

    Hi Janine,

    Your best bet is to use extracts and essential oils. Bubblegum has many flavors in it, the most prominent of which is banana (this often surprised people). There are other fruity flavors and vanilla in there as well.

  6. malmeiers said:

    Hey just wondering if anyone can help me out with some simple recipes and tips to help me understand howto use alginate.. I've just purchased some sodium alginate calcium lactate calcium chloride xanthan gum and some other products I got in an msk starter kit... Would much appreciate some guidance to get a basic understanding to be able to try variations after I've tried some things..

    Cheers maL

    For the most part, these are used in spherification. If you go to our recipe finder, and select "spherify" as the technique, you should get quite a few recipe that use these.

    Other than that, besides the xanthan gum, there isn't a great deal of use for these. You can make really set gels with them, but that uses the same principles as spherification, only flat, of course.

    There are some scientific papers out there about using some of these for brining.

    Alginate is used as a thickener in Listerine strips. We have a somewhat similar recipe in MC for lemon strips.

    Calcium chloride is often used in making tofu.

  7. izzard said:

    If I have only 48 hours to cook a brisket sous vide, what would be my best bet for a temperature? I like the "Tender, Flaky" texture (I have used 63C for 72 hours with success). Thanks!

    For 48 hours, we recommend a temperature of 65 °C.

    Sorry, I couldn't get back to you sooner. Did you try it? How did it turn out?

  8. Srynerson said:

    I was thinking about making a batch of these as Halloween party treats, but I have two questions:

    (1) Can store-bought lard be substituted for the rendered ham fat? (I don't have any on hand and I don't have any other reason to cook a ham in the next couple days.)

    (2) Assuming the answer to (1) is yes, and assuming I don't brown the flour as specified in steps 5-6 before incorporating it, will the result be a lighter colored bar than the photo in the book? (I would like to color the bars in brighter, wilder colors than what is depicted in the book, so I think the logical approach would be to minimize the recipe's brown coloration before trying to add food coloring.)

    Thank you in advance for any thoughts.

    Yes, and yes. The soap will turn out much whiter, more like classic American soap.

    P.S. sorry I wasn't able to answer until after Halloween. Did you try it?

  9. Try looking at professional-grade models. You might have to go to a professional kitchen store to find one, and it might not even be legal.

    As for PIDs, that's what we do...but I can't actually endorse doing this because we work in a lab where we have scientists, engineers, and machinists who can help us if anything goes wrong. Let us know how it turns out though!

  10. I can think of three different ways of trying this. One is the way you suggested. You will want to use tapioca starch because the cell structure is different than cornstarch. Or, you could dehydrate the pumpkin down to a powder and then rehydrate it with water and tapioca. Third, you could puree the pumpkin and use that plus pumpkin juice instead of meat and water and follow the prawn cracker recipe in MC.

  11. yesterday, someone wrote in to us to ask:

    I am a little confused by volume 6.

    On page 6-68 the table Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide suggests 58C as the suggested target temperature.

    Later though on page 6-86 in the table Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts beef hangar steak is listed with a target temperature of 50C. Is this an error or am I just not getting something. I have a hangar steak I butchered and I'd like to see what this cut is like done sous vide with a quick char after. Should I be using 50 or 58C?

    For hangar steak, short ribs, and many other cuts of meat, a variety of time/temperature combinations can produce great results, but each will have a unique texture. If you're after a result similar to traditional slow-braised hangar steak, use the lower temperature recommended in the table Best Bets for Tough Cuts, and hold it at that temperature for a couple hours. But if you'd rather have more of a grilled or pan-fried texture to the steak, cook it to the higher temperature given in the Best Bets for Tender Cuts table, and pull the steak out of the bath as soon as the core temperature reaches the target value.

  12. PZ said:

    Any experience on pros/cons of spice rubs on ribs before smoking? Wondering if flavors get funky in the sous vide process.

    We don't really do that, except for pastrami, and other cured meats. Long cooking with spices often loses their sutleties over time.

    I'm also not certain how adding the rub before smoking will affect the texture. But it's a worthy pursuit!

  13. I just finished making this soup, and it turned out really amazing (despite the fact that I omitted the carotene butter, and was working with crummy carrots). I followed the recipe (including coring the carrots), and added a bit of water to my pressure cooker as Maxime suggested. The carrots turned out great, with no burning whatsoever.

    I'm going to try and make the coconut chutney foam tomorrow, but I'm living in Ghana and it can be tough to find all the ingredients that are called for. Does anyone know if I can substitute Xanthan Gum for the Gellan that the recipe calls for? I have some on order, but it won't be here by tomorrow.


    No, use agar (same amount as you would the gellan). This is the only appropriate substitute for gellan to achieve the desired texture. If you wanted to do a cold version of the foam, you could also use gelatin (160 Bloom).
  14. coz said:

    I see that MC has instructions for Lamb stock but not Lamb Jus.Do you think this would be a similar procedure as in the Beef Jus recipe with the pressure cooker? Thanks

    Yes, you could certainly do that. You might want to consider using more rosemary, thyme, and garlic though.

  15. Chefzilla said:

    Hi there, I also have a question regarding this chapter, i hope you can help :D

    for a while now i have been adding methylcellulose to my batter for deep frying (at 1% of total weight), with the theory that the methylcel will "gel" in the heat of the oil, thus more effectively reducing the amount of oil the batter absorbs by forming a protective barrier. Obviously melting after it cools enough to eat, and therefore not effecting the final texture or flavour.

    this seems to have been working for me for a long time (although, until i read this chapter, I assumed it was for entirely different reasons lol)

    now my question is, does this actually have any scientific basis? if so, (and this may require some testing beyond my capabilities) does it have a similar, or better effect than the egg white and calcium additions that you recommended?

    also, you mentioned there are many speciality blends of salts, gels and gums used for these purposes, is methylcel one of those ingredients?

    What a happy accident sf-cool.gif

    Regards,

    Chefzilla.

    Methylcellulose has two functions in batter:

    1. We like to siphon our batter. Methylcellulose is a good stabilzer/agent in foams, which is important because when we aerate batter, the coding is actually much lighter and delicate.

    2. It gels upon heating providing structure to the batter beyond the egg/starch componants that typically give batter its body. We have noticed in some tests, not done on batters but on fried chips, that have been coated with a methethylcellulose slurry that thet will absorb less oil. This MAY be because the porous vacules or air pockets have been filled with that gel, which forms a barrier to oil absorbtion.

    Does that answer your question? What else are you interested in?

  16. If you have cured, fully vacuum-sealed, and cooked the duck to the proper time & temperature, it should be fully pasteurized. So, in principle, it should keep for a couple of months.

    In our confit, it is especially important that it is properly vacuum-sealed. Usually, when confit is cooked in fat, the fat is what prevents the air from getting into the meat, but with our method, it is the vacuum seal that does this.

  17. ChefWhit said:

    Are there any other recipes or sources of ideas for use of aquarium bubbler to create foams. The web was not very giving, and the book was vague other that the one honey water recipe (4-267).

    The most important thing when using the aquarium bubble is viscosity. That's what is most needed to maintain large bubbles. If you have enough viscosity, it will work. The same formula from the book will work with any flavorful liquid.

    Really, you can use it for anything, though if the liquid is less viscous, it might take longer and the bubbles will be smaller.

  18. Glenn House said:

    I have read the section in book II regarding deep frying. My wife and I enjoy home cooked deep fried foods on occasion but we have one problem and that is we don‚’t have a desire to deep fry more than one a twice a month. Do you have any data on how to store the oil after its initial use? How long will it stay viable, what are the methods for keeping it viable longer, etc.? For the number of times we wish to deep fry, it is wasteful to use the fat once notwithstanding the break-in period. Can anyone offer specific data to this effect?

    Glenn House

    Hi Glenn,

    Here are a few tips for keeping frying oil once you've used it.

    Filter out all of the solids. They will flavor the oil and turn it rancid more quickly.

    Because oils will oxidize in light, wrap your container in aluminum foil.

    A hermetic seal is best. If you have a vacuum sealer, use it! If your vacuum sealer doesn't seal liquids, freeze the oil and then seal it.

    The colder the oil is, the longer it will keep. This is why some people prefer to keep their oils in the fridge.

    If all else fails, smell it! Sometimes your nose is the best judge.

  19. LFMichaud is right. Everything, even when cooked, has amino acids in it, so the potential for the Maillard reaction is still there.

    Just make sure that you don't overdo it. Heating under the broiler or with a blowtorch can quickly dry meat out, which is a shame after all that nice slow cooking!

  20. lsbrodsky said:

    While I followed the recipe carefully, I found the mix too thick to properly and completely dispense from my ISI whipping siphon. Too much of the mixture remained in the bottom even though I sharply rapped on the bottom after inversion. The whole mixture seemed a bit gloppy after using the thickeners. Has anyone tried making this recipe without the thickeners in the potato broth?

    Larry

    Hi Larry,

    First, congratulations. This is a tricky one, and I'm impressed that you decided to give it a try!

    Was the mix hot? Because you are working with carrageenan, you want to make sure that the broth is cold. Even at room temperature it won't disperse properly.

    That said, it is a pretty stable foam to begin with, so yes, you could try it without the carrageenan, but you would want to leave the xanthan in.

    Make sure that you don't work the potato puree. You should use a tamis or at least a ricer to make the puree so it is smooth without being overworked. When you fold the cream and broth in during step 8, make sure you are doing just that--folding it in. Don't use a hand blender.

    Good luck!

  21. Jonathan said:

    It sounds like you've essentially set up a dialysis system, something used in labs all the time to remove unwanted (small) molecules from a substance of interest (see overview of principles here:

    http://www.piercenet.com/browse.cfm?fldID=5753AFD9-5056-8A76-4E13-5F9E9B4324DA).Basically, high concentrations of (small) soluble molecules (inside the sphere) will move across a semi-permeable barrier (the sphere membrane) to the low concentration (the water bath) until equilibrium is reached. I don't know the average pore size in the sphere membrane so it's hard to know exactly what is leaving, but in general small molecules (salts, sugars, alcohols etc.) will move pretty freely and be difficult to contain.

    The easiest ways to minimize flavor loss in this instance then, it seems to me, would be to do two things: 1) Minimize (as much as reasonable) the volume of the holding bath; and 2) incorporate some (or all) of the ingredients inside the sphere into the holding bath. If you can keep the volume down, the cost might not be prohibitively high.

    Hope that helps.

     

    Edited to add a better link.

    Exactly. You can make your setting bath with a flavorfil liquid, such as you used for your spheres, or you can thicken the bath with xanthan to prevent leaching.

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