SleeperService

I agree completely, I've been thinking about, (but haven't gotten around to, quite yet) using this http://imgur.com/a/dCvS5 method to etch a line around the skirt so that it's easy to see where the min/max is, the markings on there are a bit too subtle for me.

1) I don't have a problem with it, they certainly can give more information than a single led display like the sansaire. 2) I don't have any data on the longevity of lcds, my main problem with lcd failures has been the backlight, and using a LED backlight will solve that problem. 3) lcd screens are not out of place, no. anybody that says so is probably hankering for a big metal knob that just says "low-medium-hot"

I bought a couple of the svs racks off their site and often use them, vertically or horizontally, depending, all depends on what I'm cooking or what I'm cooking in. I got those because they were relatively cheap, and all stainless.

did you clean the sensor? it's the long and short small straight rods. the bent rod in the middle of the heating element is the temp sensor. running it in some vinegar, or CLR solution will also clean things up nicely.

unscrew the bottom disk, so you can see what the impeller is doing, spin it and make sure it's not wobbling, if it's wobbling, then you bent the shaft. gently straighten it. take the skirt off, and put it back on, with the bottom disk removed, make sure you twist the skirt till it clicks past the detent, if you don't have it twisted on all the way, it may not align properly. once the skirt is firmly attached, and the impeller is spinning freely, (even though it doesn't have to be centered in the hole) then screw the disk back on, and point the hole in whatever direction you want.

yes, that's the one, I got it from acemart: http://www.acemart.com/prod9214.html, a carlisle 1072407, almost the same part number as the webstaurant store has... you may be able to find an acemart locally, they're kinda all over. this is the lid: http://www.acemart.com/prod4668.html notice the flat, not notched front and back faces, (and the blue lettering) yes, it's quite deep enough, the anova is about 7.7" from base to the lip of the clamp, so it fits great.

just to throw in a bit of science... doesn't matter which side you use with foil. the only reason that there's a shiny and a dull side is that the last run through the squeezing rollers, the foil is so thin that they have to use a double layer, the outside of the double gets mashed by the smooth rollers, and comes out shiny, the inside gets mashed against the other sheet of foil, and comes out dull. use it however you want

the 12qt size is good for two or three good size steaks, I recommend the carlisle, not camwear, it's got straight sides not stepped ones, so the anova hangs free, instead of bumping on the side, and the lid is *much* easier to notch to fit. I've also heard good things about the rubbermaid 12qt. I've looked at the 18qt square, but can't think where it'd be a big advantage. I've got one of the 12x18x9 boxes (rubbermaid brand) for longer things, though I've not used it (yet) and have also thought about, but not gotten, a cooler for really big things, or really long cooks, I made 'sweaters' for my coolers out of reflectix and aluminum tape, double thick on the bottom.

sounds more like fedex doesn't exist.... a deep enough stock pot is fine, I wrapped a towel around the first things i was using till I got some reflectix and made a blanket for my carlisle food box. towel around and some foil over the top, you'd be set.

*shakes head*

with a quick glance over, I didn't see any differences in that and the paper manual I got with mine.

that's what I call under promising and over delivering

I said nothing, and you didn't hear anything here!

my blue and red would tend to take umbrage at the discriminatory 'black is best', of course, as they say, it does go with everything. I have no idea when they'll be coming out with a new one, but I sent in some ideas for what I thought were improvements, and got back a 'thanks' note, with the rather cryptic 'I can tell you that at least 2 of your suggestions are already implemented in a future design.' of course, now, I'm itching to find out which of the ideas.

that is definitely bad, mine doesn't require any pressure at all to start sealing. Hopefully you can get in touch with that Gary guy, (who I've never needed to talk to) and he can get you sorted out. I'm sorry you're having such problems with it.

sounds more like a 'jarred loose in shipping' as opposed to a 'poor quality control issue' to me. as to the lid not sealing on it's own, check that it's nice and clean, and the gasket is nice and clean, and that you did get the top seal pad in place properly, so that there's plenty of space between it and the pop up seal bar. and call Gary if that doesn't fix it. I love mine, perhaps you were bad in a previous life

That's been the case with my VP112 from day one: I have to lean onto the cover a bit to get the seal set. Doesn't really bother me. you'd have to do that on the bigger ones, since that's how they start that said, my vp112 doesn't need any leaning, but I carefully cleaned the lid and the seal, and vacuum builds with no delay

I've been quite happy with mine so far. just wish I'd bought a case of the 10x13 bags in the first place, since I seem to be using more of them than the others.

not much of an opening shot, for what that costs, I'd be halfway to a second anova!

probably pulled the amazon listing until they get all caught up from the direct orders, I'd guess.

because anybody can put anything on amazon for any price, just like on ebay, check the buying options: someone just trying to cash in. no, the 'seller' is listed as Anova... not a third party I bought mine via Amazon, at the $199, months ago er, no, the main listing says "by anova", then "available from these sellers: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00GT753W8/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all&sr=8-1&qid=1392590341 and when you click on it, you see that christophermbruno is offering one for 349.99, and sifa is offering one for 450.

how then do you explain that it doesn't raise *at all* unless there's vacuum in the chamber?

I would say that your experiment has proven that the seal bar *is* operated off the vacuum that is created in the chamber, controlled by a solenoid inside, but without the vacuum, no seal bar raise. of course it's not directly connected to the vacuum, since it doesn't pop up till the end of the cycle, as you pointed out, but, if it wasn't vacuum operated, it would still pop up even if the lid was open.

easy enough to test, run a cycle with the lid open, if the seal bar pops up, it's got some kind of powered actuator, if it doesn't, it's vacuum operated.

wow, nice, last time I checked amazon, it was still well over 600$ for the vp112. I'll echo what others have said, 7 seconds is pretty long, I use 6, and the default is 5. if the seal bar is nice and smooth, and you don't see any irregularities in the heat strips, then I'd check the pad that it presses against in the lid. both should be smooth. the fact that you did get a good seal indicates that you might still need more practice. I'm pretty sure that the seal bar is raised by the vacuum, because if you hit stop too early in the vacuum cycle, the seal bar won't pop up. I suggest checking out some youtube videos and watch how people lay the bags on the seal bar, make sure it's nice and flat, with no wrinkles.