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Richard Kilgore

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Richard Kilgore

  1. Now it's a 'Sencha Select" from Shizuoka, Japan. I got this last week after the Tea & Cheese pairing at The Cultured Cup. They recommended brewing a teaspoon of leaf in 155 F water for 1 minute, amount of water not specified, but they usually mean 6 - 8 ounces. I chose 6 ounces, weighed a heaping teaspoon at 2.5 g and brewed it in a ceramic cup with an infuser basket. At the time Kyle described this as a "light sencha". I agree and would not brew it any more dilute than I did. Medium-light body, no bitterness, only the slightest hint of astringency, a little vegetal and a little umami. Brewed the second infusion for 40 sec, and preferred it over the first - a little richer. I'll brew this again in a kyusu and see what differences there may be.

  2. My copy of eGullet Society board member Paula Wolfert's Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking arrived a few days ago. I know many members have been waiting for it as long as I have, especially those who helped Paula with her recipe testing. And it looks like it's more than worth the wait.

    A helpful clay pot primer on types of clay pots and how to season them starts off the book. Chapters follow on

    First Courses

    Soups

    Fish and Shellfish

    Chicken, Duck and Other Poultry

    Meats

    Pasta and Grains

    Vegetables and Beans

    Savory Pies and Breads

    Egg and Dairy dishes

    Desserts

    Has anyone else seen the book yet? What do you think?

  3. I'd go the Okinawan Rafute route...

    Braise...

    Boil...Rinse...boil again and rinse... about 40 mins.

    Simmer in equal parts of Soy, Sugar, Awamari/Sake... garlic 2 cloves for about 1-2 hours and serve with rice.

    -Jimmy

    I cooked these tonight and they are terrific! A really nice treatment for an inexpensive cut.

  4. Is the banko glazed?

    Just wondering how it might be affecting the flavor--different adsorption to the surface? Surface to volume ratios?

    Here's a link to the Banko, which is unglazed. It's the clay that does it, and the issue of the effects of various unglazed clays on tea is complex. Similar improvement with my larger Banko tea pot. The nice thing about the smaller houhin is that it's inexpensive and you can use it for other Japanese green teas, as well as for gyokuro.

    And on a related note, is there any reason not to use a gaiwan for brewing the Japanese green teas?

    You can use a gaiwan or a mug with infuser or a western tea pot for most Japanese green teas. I brewed sencha in mugs and western teapots for several years and thought it tasted great. A gaiwan is a little tricky since the leaves are small and it is more difficult to hold them back with the lid. But a kyusu is the best pot to use for all Japanese leaf teas, except gyokuro. A small (4 ounce) kyusu like my Gyokko Tokaname will work well for gyokuro due to the fine 360 degree stainless steel screen, but a houhin or tiny shiboridashi are the traditional and better options.

    The roasted Japanese green teas do not do good things to an unglazed pot you're also going to use to brew delicate senchas and gyokuros. It's best to brew houjicha and genmaicha in a glazed brewing vessel and save the unglazed for the others. I think the Banko houhin is a very good inexpensive option for brewing all the unroasted leaf Japanese green teas. But not powdered matcha, that's another topic altogether.

  5. Adventures in Gyokuro Brewing, Part IV, prelude

    The Banko houhin tea pot and two gyokuros arrived from yuuki-cha.com a week ago and I have had a chance to brew one with a tea friend early in the week and then both of them since then. I'll do detailed tasting notes later after another brewing session or two, but I can say that these are delicious, easy to brew gyokuros. Interestingly, the inexpensive Banko houhin brews tea liquor that is softer, rounder, less astringent, much less bitter and, I think, has better balanced, more integrated flavor than with my friend's glazed houhin or my small Gyokko Tokaname kyusu. But all were good.

    More to come.

  6. You're getting pretty wild with this tea-thing, don't you think, WmC?

    BTW, for anyone else that orders a sampler, they include a hojicha sample.

    The other tea I can heartily recommend to the astringency-challenged is the Kuki-cha Fukamushi from The Cultured Cup that we had in the recent Tea Tasting & Discussion here in this forum. It is still one of my favorite Japanese greens.

  7. I have not seen the regular menu yet, Kevin. I know they are doing training this week. Pyles twitter post of September 28 says training and "mock dinners" this week and a soft opening next week.

    Here's a link to the D Magazine Side Dish page on this Samar grand opening with several YouTube interviews and food coverage by Andrew Chalk. This includes brief clips of Pyles describing the chandelier he brought back from Damascus for Samar and his chef Vijay Sadhu, formerly of Bukhara Grille and Clay Pit, discussing the appetizers for the evening.

  8. Lots of tea today. An Assam this morning, a sencha later and a 2001 Menghai 7542 as I write this.

    eG Society member Kyle Stewart is doing a series on The Teas of Asia at the Crow Collection of Asian Art in Dallas. I signed up for the series because I always learn something from Kyle, who is a storehouse of information, has a superb tea palate and is a polished and engaging speaker. I'll post more on the series later, but this evening's presentation on "Beyond Masala Chai: The Nuances of Indian Teas from Darjeeling, Assam and Nilgiri" included tastings of a Jungpana Estate first flush Darjeeling, a Makaibari Estate second flush Darjeeling, a Nepal Jun Chiyabari Estate, Glendale hand made Nilgiri, a Jamirah Estate second flush Assam, a Masala Chai...and an unexpected Afgani tea.

    Nine teas makes a fairly full tea day. :blink:

  9. The crush of the eclectic crowd around the food bar made it likely that most people sampled just a delicious fraction of the full menu. Here are a few random photos of the food.

    There were two versions of this appetizer. This lentil, the other garbanzo.

    food2 (1).jpg

    food4.jpg

    Idiazabal Cheese and Olives Marinated with Garlic and Hoja Santa

    food6.jpg

    Chicken and Ham Crouquetas

    food3.jpg

    All photos by Bruno. Thanks to Catherine Flagg for providing them and the menu.

  10. And the food. Indian, Spanish, Eastern Mediterranean. Here's the menu for the evening.

    SAMAR

    by Stephan Pyles

    Grand Opening Menu – September 26, 2009

    Inspirations from Spain:

    Idiazabal Cheese and Olives Marinated with Garlic and Hoja Santa

    Pimientos de Padrone with Smoked Sea Salt

    Mussels Escabeche with Apples and Sherry

    Chicken and Ham Crouquetas

    Inspirations from the Eastern Mediterranean:

    Pita and Naan served with:

    Hommus

    Moutabal

    Labne

    Persian Spiced Fried Chicken with Sweet Potato Bisteeya

    Turkish Spiced Lamb “Pizza”

    Kibbeh with Golden Beet Tzatziki

    Crunchy Red Lentil Kofte with mint in lettuce leaves

    Inspirations from India:

    Bread Bar

    Naan from the Tandoori

    Plain

    Rosemary-Garlic

    Sun Dried Tomato-Basil

    Platters or Baskets

    Chutneys:

    Plum and Coconut, Fenugreek-Pear, Tamarind-Chipotle, Mango-Mint,

    Saffron Paneer Tikka with Spiced Vermicelli & Cumin scented Asparagus

    Potato, Peas & Pomegranate Samosa with Chole Chaat

    Spiced Lamb Stuffed Chicken Kebab with Okra Sabzi & Tomato chutney

    Papadum Sampler:

    Mung Sprouts, Spiced Potatoes and Peas, Chaat greens with Tomatoes and Onion

    Desserts:

    Turkish Coffee Crèam Pudding

    Chocolate Samosas with Candied Rose Petals

    Chai Bubble Tea

    Cinnamon-Apple Empanadas

    Baklava with Pistachios

  11. The preview party was quite a huge success, close to 1.000 people showed up Saturday evening to walk the red carpet to the front door of Stephan Pyles newest project. Being showered by rose petals by a young Indian woman as we entered set the stage and gave everyone a smile.

    Belly dancers, hookah and pop Indian music.

    Belly Dancers.jpg

    Samar Bar.jpg

    Obviously shot early before things got crowded five minutes later.

    Photos by Bruno.

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