rlibkind

For a number of years the only place to get Copper River salmon in Philadelphia was Cutter's, now Twenty21. To the best of my knowledge, they will have it again. But more recently other restaurants, particularly those specializing in fish, have added it to the menu. Cutter's had CRS because it was owned by a quality restaurant group based in Seattle, which is where I first tasted this fish in 1988 (Ray's Boathouse). No doubt about it, CRS is a wonderful fish, but other populations of king salmon are good, too; what counts more, as far as I'm concerned, is the quality, freshness, and handling of the fish more than the particular population. And some will argue, with much merit, that sockeye is a tastier salmon than king. Me? When I'm not near the salmon I love, I love the one I'm near. A cooking observation. King salmon takes particularly well to various boozy sauces or marinades. Cutter's grilled theirs with a vermouth garlic sauce; I've indirectly roasted a whole CRS on my Weber kettle after an hour or two's bath in a bourbon mustard marinade. Can't go wrong, either way.

Timely question. Just a few hours ago (2 p.m. Alaska Daylight Time, 6 p.m. EDT) the Alaska Department of Fish & Game's Commercial Fisheries Division announced that the season will open May 15; duration has not been announced yet. In any event, Copper River Salmon is not always seen at the RTM. But King salmon of various provenances should start appearing in a few weeks, with sockeye to follow.

That's a long way to go for bacon, James!

Do what at least one RTM protein purveyor does every morning at the Beer Garden: drink brandy !

Sam Consylman was out foraging this week, and Earl Livengood's got the goods -- or at least he still did when I left the market at 10 a.m. today. The goods in question are morels. But not just any morels. Huge, pristine morels. Some as big as five or six inches high! To wit: Purchasing these beauties is not for the weak of heart or poor of wallet. Earl – following the dictim of a former Philadelphia food retailer, Joel Merachek, who proclaimed one would never go broke overcharging the American public – requires $85 of your hard-earned cash for the right to purchase one pound of these. Here's a photo of what I spent $37 for: The morels were a mere $17; the lilacs (two bunches) were $20; they were $15 a bunch if you opted for the darker-colored, but less aromatic, French variety. Add in asparagus, romaine lettuce and fresh garlic with the leaves and I contributed $44 to Earl's cash flow today. That's as much I as usually spend on a heavy marketing trip at all the vendors! Here's a photo of Sam: He provided the morels as well as the poke available this week at Earl's. Whatever Sam finds in forest, field and riverbank that's good to eat he brings for sale at Earl's. He'll often be at the stand, especially Tuesdays at the South Street market and Thursdays at the Fairmount & 22nd market, both of which should start up for the season in a couple of weeks. In other news, Flying Monkey Patisserie had a "soft" opening yesterday. Today for breakfast (though the proprietor said she really doesn't open until 10 a.m.) I opted for a slice of mint pound cake (I didn't think the green tea pound cake would go well with my cup of Tippy Yunan from the Tea Leaf stall). The mint and pound cake was an excellent flavor idea, and went well with the tea. For She Who Must Be Obeyed a bought a slice of chocolate cake which, strictly in the name of science, we will sample this evening.

Could you elucidate? What local commercial fish can't you find at the RTM? I'm hard pressed to think of any that aren't available in season. A fair amount of the fish and shellfish available at the RTM fishmongers is local, or at least as local as you can get, i.e., Mid-Atlantic species primarily landed at NJ ports, but also Maryland: black bass, striped bass, butterfish, sea trout, whiting (silver hake), squid, tilefish, tuna, monkfish, flounder and fluke, bluefish, mackeral, porgies, shad, scallops, crab. Where these fish come from varies seasonally, but all come, at least part of the year, from fisheries based in NJ and Maryland.

What do you think of Pemaquid's? Are they the same as Damariscotta or different?

I guess I wasn't explicit enough in the rules for my new game, What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should. Let's limit it to stuff you buy to cook/consume at home, not restaurant food, i.e., meals you eat away from home. Let's keep in mind that (at least in my idealized notion of what it should be) the market is more market than food court. Another update, this time about those melons. Although still not great, it was much improved after spending overnight in the 'fridge. I had sampled it at room temperature. Also an update on kaiser rolls: I happened to be on North Third today so I stopped by Kaplan's. Bought kaiser rolls which, alas, were packaged in plastic. Warmed one up in the toaster oven and it crisped up, but still not like it should have been. Re: gelato. My initial thought was, who needs gelato when you've got Bassetts! Then again, there is gelato (for taking home, not on premises consumption); it's sold by the Fair Food Farmstand, and it comes from Capogiro.

The sight of those $4.99 apiece Charentais melons at Iovine's last week put me in a melon mood, so when I saw "heritage" cantaloupes from Guatemala at $1.99 each, I asked Jimmy Iovine to pick me one. Well, I didn't think they were "heritage", since they looked more like a hybrid (cantaloupe netting, but charantais green stripes). Jimmy picked a ripe one for me, but when I cut into it and tried it this evening, it was relatively flavorless, even for a subtle melon. It did have a touch (just a touch) of sweetness, but the texture was a tad off, with a slight but detectible mealiness. It also didn't have much edible flesh for its size (about two pounds). Maybe I'll try the Galias next time, also priced at $1.99 apiece Thursday. Another springtime treat found at Iovine's today: fiddleheads, tray-packed at $9.99/pound. They looked pretty fresh without too much "paper", unlike the ramps, which are getting long-in-the-tooth. The specimens today had bulbs that looked fine, but the leaves were fading fast. Sitting next to the fiddleheads (same aisle as the exotic mushrooms) were tray-packed baby artichokes, $1.99/pound. Bell pepper survey: greens and yellows 99-cents, reds $1.49, oranges $4.99. California strawberries $1.49 for a one pound clamshell (at this point I'm holding off for a few more weeks 'til the local berries start coming in). Great looking flat green beans, $1.49 pound. I haven't seen Sam Consylman, Earl Livengood's neighbor and ace forager, since last fall. Maybe he's out foraging something good for us. I'll have to check Saturday morning. In my last post I observed a home-sized Kitchen Aid mixer on the counter at the Flying Monkey Patisserie stall, which is still not open. But they are getting close: much more equipment now in place, including a commercial mixer, as well as baking supplies. Looks like they'll be opening soon. Now, a new game: What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should. I'm not talking about very esoteric or rare items, like ortolans. But basic foodstuffs. Let's start with the most basic of basic foodstuffs: bread. My first nominee for What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should is a good kaiser roll, those crispy crust but light interior sandwich rolls. Forget about Metropolitan and LeBus, neither offer them. Likewise, nothing even close at Bieler's, the Pennsylvania Dutch bakery. Maybe that new Jewish style deli scheduled to open in June will offer them, along with some real lox (the salty, unsmoked kind, a.k.a. "belly"). Actually, it's hard to find a decent kaiser anywhere. Sometimes I find one that has an okay interior, but lacks the necessary thin, crackly exterior because they were put in plastic right out of the oven. Does Kaplan's New Model Bakery on North Third have them? What's your nominee for What You Can't Find At The RTM But Should?

That's the way to slurp! I still remember the taste of those cups. as well as the spectacular lemon ice, at DiCosimo's in Elizabeth, just down the block from Spirito's (a perfect post-pizza dessert). DiCosmo's still exists and serves ices in front of the same shack; I was most recently there last October, but don't recall if they have the same pleated cups. But you're right, they were perfect for squeezing.

I'll second The Fisher's Bistro in Leith recommendation, though I'm hardly a font of great local knowledge, since I've only visited Edinburgh once, and that was two years ago. Although our restaurant eating was limited (we were staying in a Morningside flat for the week and could take advantage of local purveyors like I.J. Mellis, cheesemonger), we made a point of stopping by Fisher's late one Sunday afternoon. I opted for the cold seafood platter, overflowing with prawns, smoked salmon, crabmeat, herring, anchovies and many other good things to eat (including a Loch Fyne oyster); my wife enjoyed a nicely prepared piece of halibut with a fruit accented sauce. With two starters, two glasses of wine and two puddings, the tab came to £48 before gratuity. For seafood, it's a great spot.

Glad it worked well for you. Never heard of a "sugo"; what is it, a ragu of sorts?

Evan, does Sovalo still have the buccatini con sardo on the menu?

Definitely something to be said for country living!

Iovine's is a bit more expensive: $3.95 for a bunch of about 10. These also tend to be purplish where the root meets the leaves. Iovine's prices at the Reading Terminal Market in Philadelphia tend to be very good, and are almost always less expensive than supermarkets for produce of better quality. But when it comes to some specialty items like ramps, which you aren't going to find in many other places, their margins accelerate. Ramp and anchovy pizza! Wow! That's a superior combination, as evidenced by your photo. Beautiful to behold. And not a pizza for wimps.

Percyn and I met there noontime Sunday. It didn't take long to be served or for our food to arrive (though it did seem to take forever when we ordered some "to go" dishes after we finished our meal). As for the food, the small sampling we consumed will have me returning. I can't resist lamb, so we ordered the "pickled pepper" version. It was a classic. Rich meats do so well when matched with an appropriate sour accompaniment, even more so when there's just a touch of sweetness. Now, in the American-Chinese cuisine I grew up on, that would be exemplified by "sweet and sour" dishes, which of course were just sweet (cloying), with lots of orange food coloring and no detectable "sour". The "pickled pepper" lamb here, however, was a fine example of how meats and acidity can work together. The chef pickles a not hot, not sweet pepper, using that as a condiment when the lamb is stir-fried. The lamb itself was pefectly sliced and cooked, absolutely melt-in-your-mouth tender. We also did a cold chicken dish (I don't recall the name), but basically it was served in a chili oil-sesame oil sauce, with flavors not unlike those found in a cold sesame noodle dish. For our third course (the courses arrived bim-bam-boom, virtually all at once) we did fish. It was pieces of tilapia, bone in, which may well have been raw when they were put in the serving dish. But the serving dish was atop a full fire canned heat; the sauce was boiling when the server placed it on the table, and it continued boiling for another four or five minutes. As far as I was concerned, the fish was perfectly cooked. The server said the fish was live in the kitchen and killed to order, and it tasted that way. I think tilapia is an underrated fish. It is inexpesive and ubiquitious, because it grows so easily under farmed conditions. But it has a wonderfully sweet flesh and takes well to many different styles and means of cooking. Percy's eyes lit up at the sight of the buffet by the entrance, filled with offal and other such things: pig ears, kidney, tripe, etc. I'll leave it to him to report on these items, some of which he took home. She Who Must Be Obeyed, who did not join me for this mini-feast, asked that I bring back kung pao chicken. When the server asked me "Chinese or American", I asked for American, since SWMBO can take some degree of chili fire, but not a whole lot. I didn't taste it, but she reports it was flavorful, with some pepper heat but not over powerful. I thought the heat level of the three items Percy and I ordered well within operational limits. The cold chicken had the most fire, of course, as a result of the chili oil. The fish had the usual dried chilis, but also other dried chilis of a less intense nature that added wonderful background flavors; you could even nibble on them directly without requiring a couple of quarts of beer. The lamb had a back-of-the-throat heat that was thoroughly enjoyable; based on the taste, my guess is the dish relied on a moderate seasoning with Sechuan peppercorns. I think the chef's use of peppers for flavor, rather than mere heat, is what sets the cooking apart. All in all, the food was quite good. The service needs improvement, but we were there, after all, on just their second day.

Although they have a liquor license, iirc Sovalo in Northern Liberties allows byob on Mondays. Call to confirm: 215-413-7770.

Here are the ramps on sale Saturday at Iovine's Produce at Philadelphia's Reading Terminal Market:

Another sign of spring today: lilacs for sale by Earl Livengood. At $14.95 a bunch, however, I passed them by. Besides the scent, which is usually overpowering, was fairly weak. Maybe next week the aroma will be more intense and the price lower. More tempting at Earl's was the produce: rhubarb. spinach, dandelion, poke, asparagus. Local tomatoes have made their appearance. Well, kind of. Both Benuel Kaufman and the Fair Food Farmstand were offering "soil grown" local tomatoes. That means, grown in a greenhouse in eastern Pennsylvania but not hydroponic. Bell pepper benchmarks: over at OK Lee, three peppers in a bag (mix of green and red with an occasional yellow) for 99-cents. Ramps remain in evidence at Iovine's, as well as morels: The ramps were of excellent quality. The morels were pretty good, too, but have started to dry out. (Guess I was spoiled last year when I was in Wisconsin during morel season and bought some at the Dane County Farmers Market in Madison.) Iovines is now selling spinach produced by their contract farmer, $1 for a bag. That bag, however, will only serve one when the spinach is cooked. If you've got more than one mouth to feed, Iovine will sell you a very large bag, the equivalent of 10 of the little bags, for $6. Same goes for the spring mix, according to Vinnie Iovine. Those bargain late season Chilean grapes still available, this time two-pound bags for 99-cents. I didn't notice anything new the fish stalls today, other than that $9.99/pound fresh halibut at John Yi's still looked good. According to the monthly letter distributed by RTM Manager Paul Steinke, posted about two weeks ago, Flying Monkey Patisserie was to be open on or about April 20. It wasn't, and it looks like there's at least a bit more work to do. A home-sized Kitchen Aid mixer, however, is sitting on the counter. Paul's monthly letter also stated that Hershel's East Side Deli projects a June opening. They'll occupy Spataro's spot once the latter moves across the aisle from Tommy DiNic's. That letter also notes that attorneys for the Merchants Association and RTM management have pretty much come to terms on the language for the new lease agreements. Of course, it's not over until they all sign on the dotted line. I heard it on the grapevine: Charlie Giunta, who used to work with his brother Martin (Martin's Quality Meat and Sausage), then opened a pork stall and subsequently left for food sales, plans a return to the market, specializing in organic meats. He would occupy the A.A. Halteman space. (A.A. Halteman is working on a monthly lease.)

Yum! Ramps and seafood can be an excellent combination. I served them with sauteed sea scallops last weekend.

The RTM has free wireless internet access, so does Old City Coffee count? Of course, not open in the evening or on Sunday. But except at the height of lunch hour when seats are at a premium, you can always find plenty of space.

Local asparagus has arrived, and based on the bunch I obtained at the Fair Food Farmstand today, it will be a great season. It was selling for $4 a bunch. Benuel Kaufman also had asparagus at $3.75/bunch (two for $6). Both stands also offered local spinach. I took a taste of the flatleaf spinach offered by FF and it was buttery and sweet. I would expect Earl Livengood will have good examples of both spinach and asparagus on Saturday. Over at Iovine's, last week bargain and delicious mangos ($1 for a mango weighing about 9-10 ounces) were not to be found, but melons were much in evidence: smallish seeded watermelons, about 8-inches diameter, were $2.99 each; Charentais melons from the Dominican Republic were selling at $4.99 each. Price of Hass avocadoes up to $1.29 apiece. Porcini $44.95, Morels $54.99. Black trumpet and yellow foot chantarelles $34.99. Bell pepper survey: greens and reds 99-cents, yellows $3.99, oranges $4.99. My protein for the day was some excellent quality halibut steaks from John Yi, $9.99 pound. They were best I've seen since a trip to Alaska last spring: firm, tight flesh, snowy white. I grilled them simply (just brushing with a little soy sauce and lime juice before oiling). Accompanied by that asparagus (also grilled) and fruited couscous, made with little bits of dried pineapple, papaya, ginger, apricot and raisins from Iovines. Also making it's first appearance of the year: soft shell crab. John Yi's had 'em at $5 apiece. (BTW, Golden also had halibut, it was pricier at $12.99 and not nearly as good looking.) King salmon at John Yi's also looked good, $12.99; thinner but still decent-looking king at Golden for $11.99. We're still working off frozen stocks, however, and won't see fresh Pacific salmon until about mid-May. A friend brought over some lemon Stilton the other day. Now, if you're a stinky cheese person like me, you might dismiss this as a novelty. And so it is. It's a cheese for folks whose taste in aged, coagulated milk usually doesn't get past pepper jack, but there's no denying it has a certain appeal. Think of fermented milky water ice. At about $12/pound at Saluermia, try a small wedge and prepare to be surprised. No one will mistake it for a fine blue or savory sheep cheese, but it's fun and tasty. (Just don't ask me what wine to drink with it; you might want to consider Cherry Champ soda.)

Only day they open early is Sunday, 3:30p iirc, but I wouldn't swear on the time, perhaps it's earlier. And I would suspect they are closed Mondays.

It is still good. Very good. Beyond very good. It deserves a revered spot in the Pizza Hall of Fame.

I concur in your opinion, John. That White Rose was a regular stop for me when I was a reporter and editor, making my way from the Linden Leader office in Linden to the main Suburban Publishing office on Stuyvesant Avenue in Union. Though the White Diamond at Stuyvesant and Oakland near the Irvington border was also good.