rlibkind

The outpost in Center City Philadelphia has been open for a year or more. Burgers are considerably better than any other chain's I've tried, and the french fries are very good. That's probably because they are cooked to order and don't spend time waiting under the heat lamps, as well as basic quality of ingredients. Still, I'd rather have a good appetizer store and superlative hot dog emporium than another chain burger joint, no matter how decent the burger.

Hmm, $13.49/lb for Copper River King? When the supply is apparently extremely limited? Skeptical. Ah, gotta love RTM. ← Sounds more like sockeye. Per a topic on NJ board, Costco is selling it for $9.99. btw John Yi, in my experience, always offers to bag purchases in ice.

It's no sacrifice to be enjoying sockeye! There are plenty of folks who know their salmon who prefer it to king.

If it's King/chinook, the package will say so. If it doesn't, assume it's sockeye. Again, it's not a bad fish at all, and quite tasty, but it isn't King.

Gizzards are the primary component of Jerusalem Grill, which can also include lamb scraps. Daniel Rogov, an eGullet regular and an Israeli newspaper dining columnist, provides the basics on how to make it at home here: Daniel Rogov's Jerusalem Grill pointers

Was the Costco fish King (a.k.a. "chinook") or Sockeye (a.k.a. "red") The two Copper River varieties run concurrently, with an anticipated 1.36 million sockeyes in this season's take vs. 50,000 kings -- so sockeyes tend to be less pricey. They're delicious, too, but not quite as tasty. Based on the price, it's my guess Costo is selling sockeye at that price, though I'd love to be wrong.

btw, "chinook" is another nomenclature for king salmon. It can come from many different river systems, not just Copper River. That said, Copper River is renowned for being the earliest of the chinook runs as well as, arguably, the tastiest.

Twenty21 and its predecessor in the space, Cutter's Grand Cafe, have had it on the menu (in season) every year since at least 1988. It's located on the plaza at the Commerce Square twin towers, Market between 20th and 21st. Twenty21 website

From Craig LaBan's weekly online chat: If true, no surprise, as I previously reported this is Russ Cowan's history. He's in the business of building operating businesses then selling them -- that's where the money is. He's an entrepreneur, not a day-to-day manager. If the delis decline after he sells them, it's not his fault: it's the new owners who are probably either (1) not good managers and/or (2) trying to cut corners where they shouldn't. It doesn't have to be this way. I know of one similar, though smaller, deli in North Jersey now under its third set of owners in 50 years. Each has kept up the quality. As for The Famous, it's hard to image a worse operator than the party he purchased the landmark from.

Sansom Street Oyster House has good food and a good happy hour, but you have to eat at the bar to get the deals. ← Excellent suggestion! The bluepoints are a buck apiece, and there's usually some other items at very good prices.

As you can see in the photos local strawberries made their first appearance this weekend. They were $4.95/pint at Benuel Kaufman's (top photo, with asparagus). The only other vendor selling local berries was Fair Food (bottom photo, along with snow peas and sugar snaps). Expect Earl Livengood and Iovine Brothers to have local berries in abundance next week. Sometime in early summer, according to RTM Manager Paul Steinke, a new take-away establishment will occupy what had been Andros. The new vendor, The Everyday Gourmet, will be operated by a former manager at Commissary and a former chef at Jill's Vorspiese. (The later reestablishes a market connection, since Jill's was a long-time RTM outpost of quality prepared foods.) No word yet on what will go in Foster's space, though Steinke said he's in discussions with another kitchenware retailer, though it won't be Fante's. (That leaves one other major regional kitchenware retailer among the possibilities.) I didn't get to any of the weekday farmer markets this week. Does anyone know if Griggstown showed up at Fairmount? An abbreviated shopping list for me this week, since I'll be out of town until early June. BENUEL KAUFMAN ($4.95) Strawberries EARL LIVENGOOD ($3.50) Asparagus HERSHEL'S EAST SIDE DELI ($4.94) Lox GIUNTA'S PRIME SHOP ($14.15) Hanger Steak Turkey Bacon SALUMERIA ($1.26) Olives IOVINE BROTHERS ($1.89) Crimini mushrooms Shitake mushrooms

The Maine Lobster Festival will be held in nearby Rockland Aug. 1-5, if you're there then. It's your basic county fair with lots of crustaceans thrown in. Just south of Rockland is Primo. Reservations recommended.

As noted earlier, I'm a big fan of Shapiro's. But, while I know some like the soft, squishy rye, I find that's one of the few areas where they fall short. But that's simply a matter of personal preference.

That's got to be Harold's!

Got back to Rembrandt's weekend before last, and I regret to report that the mussels weren't up to the previous standard. Instead of a straightforward tomato-wine-garlic broth they've gussied it up with way too much Italian style sausage, so much so that it obscures the flavor of the sea for which I crave mussels. Not that the mussels were poor quality; they weren't. It was just an off-kilter and inappropriate preparation.

In my past life as a mid-level corporate manager, I frequently found myself in downtown Indianpolis. On one of my first trips I was glancing through the local entertainment ad-filled magazine placed in my hotel room and saw a small advertisement for a cafeteria boasting corned beef and pastrami. An unlikely place to get a decent pastrami sandwich, I thought, even if the cafeteria was named "Shapiro's". But it was only a 10-minute walk from my hotel, and 20 years ago downtown Indianapolis was a ghost town as far as good food was concerned (unless you wanted some exceptional red meat at St. Elmo's). So, with a typical East Coast attitude, I wandered down to Shapiro's expecting nothing better than what I'd find at a supermarket deli counter. How wrong could I be! Shapiros remains a mecca, and I've taken 100-mile detours to enjoy their corned beef and pastrami. Their matzoh ball soup is pretty good too, as is the steamtable stuffed cabbage and other standards. (The pies are incredible mile-high affairs loaded with sugar and a wonderful artificial-ness). Shapiro's reminds me very much of the Jewish style cafeterias that used to be found all over NYC and were favorites of cab drivers and garment industry workers alike. (The last one like it in Philadelphia, Bain's on South Broad Street, closed a few years after I moved to town in 1979.) Shapiro's also has a take-away deli counter with various cold cuts and smoked fishes, as well as some bakery items, baked on-premises. Should you find yourself in central Indiana (or just passing through en route to elsewhere on the interstate) make a point of stopping at Shapiro's. (Just make sure to go to the downtown cafeteria, not the Carmel location on the north side. Don't let the long line (mostly populated by workers and mangers from the nearby Eli Lily corporate offices) at the height of the lunch hour dissuade you. The line moves quickly and there's plenty of seating room at the communal cafeteria tables.

By popular demand (well, Sandy's lone request) some thoughts about the Center City Philadelphia Jewish deli scene. Hershel's is a welcome and much-needed addition, though Center City and immediate environs is blessed with more Jewish style delis than many other large cities. Steve and Andy, who opened it, are to be commended for the undertaking and their commitment. I've only had the pastrami, not the corned beef, and found it quite tasty, though my personal preference is for slices that don't fall apart into shreds as easily as theirs do. The knaedl in their matzoh ball soup are as light as matzoh balls get. Other than lox (Acme, both nova and "salty") and knishes (well-sourced) that's all I've consumed from Hershel's. It's an obvious success, though, with constant lines during lunch time. Steve said he's already outgrown his oven capacity and is working with Reading Terminal Market management to find additional kitchen space elsewhere in the market. Kibbitz In The City is another business district deli (also close to the historic tourist district). I've only been there a couple of times, and not recently. Again, the pastrami was tasty and legitimate, but not to my personal taste preference: too salty. (At that time they were using pastrami supplied by Vienna Beef of Chicago.) Pastrami 'n Things is another Center City outpost. Since I stopped working in Center City six years ago, I don't have the opportunity to eat lunch there often and therefore haven't been to this deli in quite some time, but they, too, used Vienna Beef product. (I do find it odd that Vienna Beef pastrami is popular with Philadelphia delis; there are other quality suppliers available, but perhaps it's a wholesale price thing, though a manager at Kibbitz told me his customers prefer the saltier Vienna Beef product. My own preference is for Old World Provisions' New York State National brand, out of Albany NY.) When I worked a block away, I was a regular at Pumpernick's Deli in Center City which I thought had the best pastrami in town at the time. Slightly outside of Center City is The Famous, which has been around since the early part of the last century. Alas, under its previous ownership it was awful. It's been resuscitated over the past two years under a new owner who has extensive deli experience in Brooklyn and Queens and previously founded a delis in South Jersey (and later started and sold Kibbitz In The City). He does what a relative of mine used to do: create a new coffee shop or deli, get it rolling and put systems in place so he could then sell it as a turnkey operation. My guess is in another couple of years the owner of the Famous will do just that. In the meantime, they make a mean corned beef and pastrami (last fall they started brining and smoking their own product), and the countermen are the best fish cutters in town, offering paper-thin hand-sliced lox. The brisket and stuffed cabbage are aces, too. (FWIW, The Famous is the only deli where I can recall seeing salamis hanging and drying.) I make occasional forays to other parts of Philadelphia, particularly the huge Northeast where, at the very least, some excellent Jewish style bakeries remain, though I've yet to check out the delis. Alas, Philadelphia's only remaining appetizer stores, Abe's & Son, closed last year. There are also myriad delis in the suburbs and outlying parts of the city. Over those I tried (City Line in Overbrook, and Hymie's and Murray's in Merion), I haven't been overly impressed. Okay if you live in the neighborhood and continuing the tradition, but nothing exceptional. Getting back to Center City: with the exception of Hershel's and The Famous, all are simply sandwich places designed to feed the lunch crowd. They are not places where you can walk in and buy meat, salads and other materials for serving at home. And even Hershel's and The Famous concentrate on the restaurant aspects rather than the deli aspects, because that's where the money is. To me, a Jewish deli was not only about sitting at a formica table and enjoying a pastrami sandwich and a bottle of Cel-Ray Tonic. It was about saving up to buy a quarter pound of rolled beef (a product you can't even find anymore, and even in the 1960s would cost $10/pound), and serving yourself to "new" kraut and pickles out of a barrel. Even more I miss the "appy" stores specializing in smoked fish and dairy, from the days where delis sold meat (sorry ma'am, we're kosher, no cheese) and "appys" sold lox, sturgeon, sable, whitefish, smoked carp and a full variety of cream cheeses.

The deli's are still around in any community with a significant Jewish population; not as many as in the past, and the quality varies, but they're still here. What virtually has disappeared is the "appy" store, which sold dairy and paerve products, not meats.

Walked over to the Fairmount & 22nd market today. While pickings were slim, Earl Livengood had a raft of different lettuces, plus those beautiful collard leaves and beautiful asparagus. Since I am still fairly well stocked on lettuces, I limited myself to a bunch of fresh (yes, fresh) garlic. Also at the market was another returnee, Sam Stolfus. Although I don't care for his baked goods, his spring veggies are excellent. From him I purchased a bunch of fresh mint and the first spring radishes I've seen. Nicky Uy of The Food Trust, which sponsors this as well as the 12th & St. James Market (Tuesdays, 2-6 p.m.) and is also sponsoring the Headhouse Square market which opens in July, says in future weeks there will be additional vendors at Fairmount. A highlight for me will be Griggstown Quail Farm! This central New Jersey producer is renowned for its specialty poultry. Can't wait to purchase a poussin. And Nicky says she understands they will be selling fresh, not frozen, birds. They are also selling at the Clark Park Market, 43rd and Baltimore. Also scheduled to sell at Fairmount starting next week, according to Nicky, is Gotschell Farms, operated by Steve and Nicole Shelly, formerly of Somerton Tanks. Carol Margerum will be back with her produce, herbs and condiments a bit later in the season. From all reports, unless a bunch of rain descends during picking time, it looks like a fantastic strawberry season. Both Earl Livengood and Jim Iovine (who gets his local berries as part of his contract deal with Shady Brook Farm in Yardley) report the crop looks to be both big and excellent in quality. Last Friday at the RTM I picked up Earl's morels, gathered by his neighbor Sam Conslyman. Dear at $85/pound, they were well worth the price. They were big, nearly bug-free and absolutely delicious. I sauteed them with some of Iovine Brother's "bargain" fresh porcini (the ones he'd have to trash otherwise because they weren't pristine) and a bit of shallot, then made a frittata with lots of gruyere, some lightly steamed asparagus, a mere touch of thyme, salt and pepper. Very yummy. Served with a green salad and Metropolitan baguette. Sam doesn't think he'll see more morels, but expect Earl to have more lilacs. They were in profusion last week and, although they've finally started to dry out, they still perfume the house. Here's last Saturday's shopping list: IOVINE ($8.55) Black grapes, seedless Shallot Honey tangerines Porcini mushrooms Frisée Red bell pepper Vidalia onions LIVENGOOD ($43.75) Lilacs Morels Asparagus Romaine lettuce SALUMERIA ($10.38) Gruyere cheese METROPOLITAN BAKERY ($2.50) Baguette HARRY OCHS ($4.29) Turkey bacon HATVILLE DELI ($1.50) Eggs

I think I know what I'm having for dinner tomorrow -- even if I had them as recently as this past Sunday.

The official hours are 3 p.m. - 7 p.m., however, if business is slow they will pack up a little early. That shouldn't happen once the strawberries come in (unless they sell out before closing time!).

How about something completely different? If it's a nice night, get some felafel at Philly Falafel (Sansom near 18th) and dine al fresco in Rittenhouse Square watching the world go by.

First of all, thanks to everyone for their thoughts and tips, especially ex-Philadelphian Sara. Now, onto my much-belated commentary . . . HARVEST She Who Must Be Obeyed was all tuckered out from her University meetings, so I dined solo, taking advantage of the $55 tasting menu along with the $25 wine flight. Regarding the wine flight, the previous Sunday Harvest had a Spanish themed dinner. All the wines accompanying my tasting were Iberian. I enjoy Spanish wines, but I thought this was overdone. Some were excellent, others okay but not really good with the food. The overall tannin levels were too high to my tastes. I left with the impression that they overbought wine for the Sunday event and had to get rid of it, and this was how they were going to do it. On to the food. The amuse bouche was the taste-temper it was meant to be: celeriac soup with some tiny truffle-scented dumplings. Got my tastebuds revved up. The first course was an interesting variation on prosciutto and melon: serrano ham wrapped around three small perfect cylinders of tangerine gelée. Alas, it failed because the gelée was much too sweet -- hard to imagine, but it overpowered the ham! The accompanying red -- Descendientes de Jose Palacios, Petalos, Bierzo, 2005 -- was much too tangy for this course, as well as exceedingly tannic. I would have rather had a riesling, any riesling. The second course was, to my taste, the most successful of the evening. A perfectly cooked square of arctic char served with a sensational piquillo pepper sofrito (marred only by a single pepper seed the sieve missed) and a black olive purée. The wine, the only white of the evening, was a pleasing Portuguese offering (the only non-Spanish wine of the evening): Quinta do Dorado "Auratus", Alvarinho-Trajadura, 2005. Next up some rich slices of venison loin served with pearl onions and one of my favorite spring veggies, fiddlehead ferns. The fiddleheads were exceptionally tiny and tender. I think the wine served, Palacios Remondo, La Vendimia, Rioja Crianza 2004, should have switched places with the one served with the ham. Cheese was next, a Spanish variety made from a combination of goat and cow milk: Puenta Los Angeles Queso Devadeon. Pleasant enough, as was the wine (another red! doesn't anyone know that a lot of whites work even better with cheese than most reds?), Alvaro Palacios, Les Terrasses, Priorat, 2004. I was a bit wary of the palate-cleanser, fearing that the coconut-cilantro sorbet would overemphasize the cilantro. No need to worry. The freezing tamped down the cilantro flavor making it a pleasing counterpoint to the sweet coconut. A chocolate bomb with caramel sauce and candied violets, served as the sixth course, was a nice finish. Again, though another Spanish red. Now, there's nothing wrong with red wine with chocolate and this tempranillo (Atalayas de Golban, Ribera del Duero, 2004) was fine. But doesn't anyone serve dessert wine with dessert anymore? THE OLD FASHIONED Saturday night and the Old Fashioned can hardly be considered low-key, given a line to get in (unless you sit at the bar, like me) and the noise level -- but the line and the noise significantly subsided by 9 p.m. I kept it simple and enjoyed my plate of sausages with kraut, two or three different types of mustards, three sausages (Nuremburg brat, knackwurst and weisswurst), grilled rye bread and sweet gherkins. And beer (another Spotted Cow). As I mentioned in an earlier post, I found the apple crumb pie tart, crisp and pleasing, especially with a thick slice of medium sharp cheese. ELLA'S On our way out of town Sunday we stopped at Ella's on Washington, now that the downtown deli has been closed. I was less than amused when, on a Sunday morning, they could offer no lox although it was on the menu. For a restaurant that purports to be a Jewish style deli, this is a shanda. I settled for the huge portion of pretty good french toast. THE EDGEWATER The food is, by and large, institutional portion control, and the bar has limited offerings, but the outdoor dock, snackbar and bar at The Edgewater Hotel has a friendly service, great view, delightful breezes, and an adult party atmosphere. A relaxing place to pass time in the summer sun and watch the great orb set on the other side of the lake.

That would be Rineer's.

The South & Passyunk Market opens tomorrow, May 8. Here are the details: