
JFLinLA
eGullet Society staff emeritus-
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Everything posted by JFLinLA
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What, no pictures? This sounds awesome! Katie -- Since last Hanukkah we actually obtained a digital camera and I actually had the foresight to snap a few pics of said Challah before candle lighting and devouring. Can someone help me with how I get the pics to show up here? Thanks. (BTW, I really enjoy making special challah's designed around the theme of a holiday. If I get some help with the pics, I can promise a gorgeous hamantashen shaped challah in time for Purim.) Thank goodness for food processors. Even so, the frying itself took from about 2:00-5:00 yesterday with 2 pans going. It was probably about 12-13 pounds worth of potates. My neck and shoulders are sore and the whole house smells of oil, onions and potatoes. Now that's what I should have taken pictures of. My 11 year old daughter helped through the entire frying. I'll make a balabosta of her yet. My grandma, who taught me to make latkes, would be proud. I've got tons so stop by anytime. I can't believe I forgot to get applesauce!
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Sorry to interrupt all the Hanukkah Hoopla but I need to revive the shmaltz, gribenes/grivelach, p'tcha discussion. Hubby and I were discussing this today and he shouted out, "Oh, Chalodnya." If I understand correctly, that the same thing as p'tcha. Right? Gotta go rest up now. Sunday is my annual frying of the latkes. I think I'll do 15 pounds of potatoes this year and I think my daughter is old enough to hang around once the oil gets hot. We'll see. By the way, my menorah-shaped challah (with red/orange colored sugar flames) came out great.
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LA Times Food Section -- December 17, 2003 Special Issue: Holiday Cooking Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper. "Since 1927, Bracebridge has been the state's most storied holiday celebration, a dinner Californians grow up hearing abut but few ever get to attend." Corie Brown lets you in on the goings on at Yosemite's Ahwahnee Hotel in A golden tradition. Recipes for Pistachio-crusted beef tenderloin, Butternut squash 'mulligatawny', Bearnaise demi-glace, and Plum pudding with Ahwahnee apricot sauce. In Dweezil make a brisket, Valli Herman reports on celebrity couple Dweezil Zappa and Lisa Loeb and their Hanukkah preparations. Find recipes for Latkes and Apple chutney. Russ Parsons demystifies souffles in Why not wow them? Get behind the mystery and find out how you can even make them ahead of time. Recipes for Sweet potao-prosciutto souffle, Souffle of bitter greens, and Souffle of goat cheese and walnuts. Chestnuts? Of course, by Susan La Tempa, demystifies this ingredient that is prevalent around the holidays. Recipes for Legumes cuisines en cocotte and Goat cheese, candied chestnut & Belgina endive salad (sorry, there doesn't seem to be a link to this one). Find out what to get for your friends in A gift for every kind of foodie. Culinary SOS provides the recipe for Ginger cake from Berkeley's Ginger Island Restaurant. In One barrel, one bourbon, Regina Schrambling says, "Single-barrel brands are elevating the status of the original American whiskey. Still great for post-feast sipping, they are now being used in cocktails and make great gifts for the holidays." Read to the end for an evaluation of those deemed to be "smooth sippers" and where they can be found. In Matters of Taste, David Shaw brings us The lighter side of wine. Basically, he doesn't have much use for wine guides and thinks that the best way to learn about wine is to drink it. Nevertheless, he has two "irreverant reads" to recommend. The Wine of the Week is 2002 Coto de Hayas Garnacha Centenaria. Pasta, pizza and always a party is this weeks restaurant review by S. Irene Virbila. She gives Amalfi Ristorante on La Brea a star and a half and says the best dishes are Pizzas, focaccia di bufoline, fritto misto, seafood salad, fennel and Parmesan salad, tagliolini with shrimp, ravioli di vitello, breaded veal chop, marinated Cornish game hen, and la dolce zuppa Amalfitana. In Restaurant Journal, Leslee Komaiko reports on the newest obsession of refolding your napkin whenever you step away from the table. Russ Parsons recommends the new pamphlet on LA's Chinatown developed for the recent opening of the Gold Line -- including a walking tour, restaurant list, and collection of "neighborhood favorites."
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And in my husband's family they were called something else: GRIV-a-lach
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I generally agree with you but Cost Plus World Market is also good.
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LA Times Food Section -- December 10, 2003 Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper. Find out about Wine's secret club from Corie Brown. Wine storage has become a scene and it's for more than cellaring. These are the places to hang out if you want to be in on the latest in wine news. Read to the end for the "locker room buzz." Donna Deane, and the rest of the Times Kitchen staff it seems, are enamored with cardamom as a replacement for cinnamon. In Put this in your shaker, baker they urge us to use cardamom anywhere a recipe calls for cinnamon. And, speaking of recipes, find out how to make Cardamom spritz cookies, Cardamom sweet rolls, and California farmer's market panforte. If you're looking for just the right gift for that special foodie someone, Leslie Brenner says it's a banner year for new cookbooks. Read about some of the best in A season of glorious, gorgeous substance. And then came Roy is David Shaw's profile of Hawaiian chef extraordinaire Roy Yamaguchi. Enjoy Roy's recipe for Coconut panna cotta. Culinary SOS provides the recipe for tomato basil soup from Nordstrom's cafe. If you're making spritz cookies (see the cardamom story above), you're going to need a good cookie press. Never fear, Valli Cohen has evaluated them for you in When pressed, they respond. "There's a sense of mounting excitement as the late-release Cabernet Sauvignons from Rutherford begin to appear." Rod Smith tells about it in Rutherford's instant classics. The Wine of the Week is Beaumont des Crayères Champagne Brut Grande Réserve For her review this week, S. Irene Virbila says Citrine is A stylish spot on Melrose, for every style on the planet. She gives the place 1 star and recommends the Pan-seared jumbo scallops, Maine lobster ceviche, artisanal cheese ravioli, smoked pork loin chop, pan-roasted chicken in white chocolate and pistachio mole, crème brûlée sampler. For something a little more down-scale, read Counter Intelligence. This week, Linda Burum's article, Six tables, three cultures and one inspired menu, discusses Lempira Restaurante Hondureno. Recommended dishes are Sopa de caracol, baleadas, plátano maduro entero con carne molida, tajadas con pollo frito.
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I love Dupars but especially for their yummy pancakes for breakfast. Sorry, I'm not a pie aficionado.
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There are 3 Trader Joe's relatively close by -- Westwood/National, Sepulveda/Palms, & Pico just west of Cloverfield.
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You've got lots of good info so far but here's another. For a good Italian deli, try Sorrento in Culver City -- on the east side of Sepulveda, 2-3 blocks north of the Marina Freeway.
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Is your stand mixer dairy? I made these last year when my dairy food processor bowl was broken. I used my stand mixer fitted with the paddle. The cream cheese should be at room temp, and I added it before the cottage cheese so I could make sure it was well dispersed before adding the cottage cheese. Then I switched to the wisk attachment and added the flour. I can't see why this couldn't be done with a hand mixer, either. You could cream the cream cheese and sugar, add eggs one at a time, then add the cottage cheese. Just make sure everything is mixed well before adding the cottage cheese. The first time I made these I served them with the jam. WAY too sweet and somehow the flavors felt juvenile. The next time I made them I added a splash of vanilla to the battter and served them with a compote made with dried (plumped) apricots, figs, and prunes flavored with a star anise, vanilla bean, and a splash of slivovitz. Yum. (I happen to love compoted fruit on anything I've been known to have it for breakfast on a piece of cornbread!) I think you would want either a food processor or blender over a mixer just to get those cottage cheese curds smoothed out . . . unless you want a little chunky. You could use a mixer and puree the cottage cheese separately and then mix it in I guess.
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Glad to oblige! Hungarian Cheese Latkes 2 large eggs 1 cup sugar 8 ounces cream cheese 6 tablespoons large-curd cottage cheese (small curd works fine too) 3/4 - 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon salt vegetable oil for frying Mix the eggs and the sugar in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade. Add the cheeses, 3/4 cup of the flour, and salt. Process until smooth. Heat a nonstick frying pan (any size) (I found it doesn't have to be nonstick. That's what the oil is for.) and pour in a film of vegetable oil. To test the thickness of the batter, drop about 4 tablespoons into the pan and fry for a few minutes on each side. Do not worry if some of the batter spills out of the pancakes. Just scrape off the excess. If the batter seems too liquid, add flour. When the consistency is correct, continue frying all the pancakes, a few at a time. (I use a 1/4 cup measure to plop the batter into the oil.) Drain on a paper towel and serve with a dollop of whipped cream, a spoonful of jam or a sprinkle of cinnamon sugar. I find it's useful to have a small mesh strainer or slotted spoon at the ready to pick up the bits of batter that break off of the pancakes. To quote from Joan's book, and after you taste these you'll believe it, "the only reason Jews in Central and Easter Europe switched to potato latkes was because they were so poor they couldn't afford cheese."
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LA Times Food Section -- December 3, 2003 Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper. Paul Bertolli knows there's just one way to get authentic Italian sausage: make it yourself. S. Irene Virbila profiles Oliveto's executive chef, "a cook's cook," in An ancient art. If you want to make your own, you will need some gear. Read Grinder, do your stuff. And, of course, recipes for Lucanica (fresh Italian sausage), Baked Italian sausage ragu with polenta, and Sausage, chicken and bread skewers. For her weekly review, S. Irene Virbila tells about Table 8 in black leather and blond moire. Located on Melrose below a tattoo parlor, she gives the place 3 big stars and recommends the Green bean salad, grilled sweetbreads with "torn" pasta, Atlantic sardines with celery leaf pesto, roasted asparagus with bottarga aioli, wood-roasted baby chicken with short-rib hash, king salmon with charred escarole, New Zealand lamb, kurobuta pork chop with chestnuts, salt-roasted Porterhouse for two, vanilla bean panna cotta, chocolate soufflé. Russ Parsons says that From Spain, the cutting edge (is) in a can. In other words, not all canned products are "second-rate versions of fresh." Find out what Spain cans best in Preserving good taste. In Bread pudding on a pedestal, Barbara Hansen says the creamy comfort food has gone upscale. Find recipes for Hazelnut polenta bread pudding, Chocolate croissant pudding, and Budin diplomatico. In Culinary SOS: Add a bit of bubbly, Cindy Dorn comes through with the recipe for Warm chicken salad from LACMA's Pentimento restaurant. The Wine of the Week is 2002 Barbolini Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro. In Restaurant Journal, read about the latest black plate special, the arrival of the English translation of the cookbook from El Bulli, and news from restaurants Xiomara on Melrose, Kung Pao Killy in Hollywood, and Oceanfront in Santa Monica.
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I can't believe I've missed that recipe. I have to pull the book off the self and check it out. I think it depends which version of the book you have. I believe this is a recipe that was added for the television series and is a separate section at the back of the book. If you don't have that version, let me know and I'll get you the recipe. Blovie will have proof of your trying to kill him with high cholesterol with these but he'll be a happy, happy man.
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I also make a sweet cheese dessert latke. It's out of the back of the Joan Nathan book Jewish Cooking in America. Cream cheese, eggs, sugar, flour and cottage cheese whirled smooth in the food processor. It's basically a blintz without the crepe . . . or the crepe incorporated in the form of the flour in the batter . . . or fried cheese cake batter without the crust or . . . well you get the idea. Sprinkled with powdered sugar, cinnamon sugar, or spread with a little preserves . . . delish.
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And speaking of schmaltz . . . or schmaltzy: One of my favorite latke memories had to have been several years ago. It was the last Hanukkah my grandmother was still with us. She was healthy enough to make the latkes and it was the first Hanukkah my daughter was old enough to help out (yes, I shooed her out of the kitchen once the oil got hot). Together with myself, my mom, my grandmother and my daughter we had four generations of women in the family making latkes. (Where is the smilie with the tear welling up?) Too bad nobody took a picture. This year, I think my daughter is old enough to hang out for the actual frying part. (cue the music, "Sunrise, sunset. Sunrise, sunset.")
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Imagine hashbrown, flavored with pure chicken fat and onions. and salt, don't forget the salt.
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Following the chuckles from Rabbi Ribeye's Schmaltz story, I thought I'd start a thread on the trials and foibles of latkes and other Hanukkah preparations. My "annual tradition" is to fry up a pile of latkes once. I almost never, ever fry in oil during the year and it's just easier to make and clean up the mess once. Generally, it's an afternoon of work based on one food processor, two frying pans and 15+ pounds of potatoes. I make 'em the way grandma taught me and grandma was appreciative of modern changes and conveniences. So she learned to love the food processor over doing it all by hand and to appreciate my technique for keeping the large batch white, freezing the final product and reheating so they stay crispy. I also generally do the big family Hanukkah party which is traditionally a brunch of "latkes and lox" and more. It takes till Purim to clear your arteries but yum, yum. What are you doing?
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Could you post the Godiva Biscotti recipe or point us to the thread where you found it. Thanks.
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I too laughed. In addition to the gribenes that my mother in law still makes (she calls the grivelach), there was another unique specialty I learned about when hubby and I first got together. I don't know what the correctly spelling is, if any, but it's pronounces "p-tcha" and is basically garlic-flavored gelatin extracted from bones. The love spreading that on anything they can. Understand please, my husband didn't marry a shiksah and I can cook with the best of them but this was a new one on me.
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LA Times Food Section -- November 26, 2003 Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper. Kimberly Boyce and Leslie Brenner help out with The last detail. Pie that is, which is required for the end of the Thanksgiving meal. Never fear, the intrepid Times food staff have given a sure-fire recipe for Pie crust dough with step-by-step directions and photographs plus three memorable fillings -- 'Pumpkin' custard meringue pie, Pear and prune oat streusel pie, and Apple quince pie. Leslie Brenner makes No apologies about the 2003 Beaujolais Nouveaux, just released last week. She likes it, so there. Does your family have some odd piece of tableware handed down from a prior generation and everybody in the family wants to know What the heck is that? Charles Perry will help you sort out your olive fork from your pickle fork and your sugar sifter from your preserve spoon. Valli Herman says that southland farmers markets are Here just in time with fall colors to rival any hike in the mountains. Regina Schrambling is Talking turkey with a Louisiana accent. Check out her recipe for Turkey gumbo with artichokes and andouille. Dishes to go recommends an easy Thanksgiving dessert -- pumpkin ice cream. They tell you where you can get some of the best. On the 50th anniversary of Napa's Stony Hill winery, David Shaw tells all about the winery, the people and The Chardonnay that blazed the trail. The Wine of the Week is 2001 Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. In Counter Intelligence: Mexico, Barbara Hansen reviews El Huarache Azteca I in Highland Park where the "meat-topped masas . . . have plenty of homespun soul." For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila provides A dip into L.A.'s past with a look at the classic Philippe's. She gives the place one star and recommends homemade doughnuts, French dip sandwiches, potato salad, macaroni salad, tapioca pudding, coconut cream pie, and baked apples.
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LA Times Food Section -- November 19, 2003 Special Thanksgiving Issue Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper. "It happens every year: After all the shopping, cooking and obsessing, Thanksgiving dinner is over in a flash. The year, we decided to first focus on the time at the table. And it all fell into place: a sumptuous menu, a leisurely pace, a true celebration." The party starts here -- the kitchen that is. According to Russ Parsons, "At some point while you're fixing dinner, you will look around and realize that every single soul you've invited is standing in your kitchen." Russ says a good cook is always prepared with things to feed your guests, or things for helping hands to do, or both. Scroll down for the recipes for Salt-and-pepper breadsticks, Cumin-cured olives, and Mojo marinated shrimp. In Test Kitchen Notebook, Leslie Brenner tells which turkey tastes best. The only problem is that it's too late to order your heritage turkey for this year. Save this article and order early next year. In Tool Department, find out about the latest gadgets for preparing your Thanksgiving feast or other meal including the Orka silicone oven mitt, Grind salt or pepper mill, pinch bowls, and the corkscrew-style poultry lacer. Stumped by the challenge of pairing wine when you're serving cranberries? Read Wine lovers, beware: Those cranberries have a killer instinct. Barbara Hansen's Dish to go will help you find a tasty pumpkin non-pie dessert. Order soon if you want to pick some of these up in time for the big day. Instead of rush, rush, rush, how do you turn Thanksgiving into a 33-rpm experience when we live in a DSL world? Regina Schrambling has some great ideas in To the table, and be slow about it. Recipes for Soy-brined turkey, Pistachio Brussels sprouts, Pumpkin-Gruyere gratin, Sausage-cornbread stuffing, and Sweet potato pie with pecan streusel. Not one but three Wines of the week to pair with your Thanbskgiving menu. In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn answers several questions about preparing the holiday meal and provides a recipe for Wild mushroom stuffing. First we don't say "yuck" is a an adorable column about etiquette classes to help kids get through a civilized meal with grown-ups. You might want to encourage your youngsters to read the accompanying "survival guide," or you might want to read it yourself. Leslee Komaiko will tell you where you can get A little help from your chef, or the pros who will prepare part or all of your Thanksgiving menu to go. When the cooking and eating are done, it's time to enjoy An orchard in a bottle. Emily Green recommend Calvados. Click here for the link to the main LA Times Food Page where you will find more links for Thanksgiving including how-to information, recipes, and preparation videos. S. Irene Virbila reviews Pastis in A smooth second act. She says, "the popular little bistro has a bright new interior and a more playful approach to classic French fare." She gives the restaurant one and a half stars and recommends Charcuterie, braised baby leeks, purple artichoke salad, braised rabbit stuffed with chorizo, duck confit parmentier, daube de boeuf, rib-eye steak, black fig carpaccio, crème brûlée, quince tarte tatin. In Counter Intelligence: Syria, Charles Perry recommends Sham Restaurant in Santa Monica.
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A little more upscale is Ocean Avenue Seafood right on Ocean Ave (natch) in Santa Monica. I still love the crispy catfish at Wolfgang's Chinois on Main in Venice.
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Just to add: If you go to the Geffen Contemporary, you're right next door to the Japanese-American Cultural Museum (don't know what's there now but I like both the old and new buildings) and right in Little Tokyo which offers a variety of food options. Also, since you're going to be in Pasadena, it might be fun to watch them getting the Rose Parade floats together. They'll look better a week or two later when they actually start putting the perishable things on them but it could be fun anyway. And, don't miss the Huntington Gardens.
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LA Times Food Section -- November 12, 2003 Brief summaries and links to individual articles are provided below. The LA Times posts their restaurant reviews, and some other Food Section articles, in the Calendar section on-line even though they appear in the Food section of the print edition. Further, one is required to register separately to access the Calendar section and pay a fee if you don't already subscribe to the paper. You can top this by Emily Green ponders why so many of us love pizza but so few of us make it. It's not that daunting to make great pizza. Read The Z list to find pizzerias Times writers and critics prefer . . . or make your own with recipes for Pizza dough, Tomato sauce for pizza, and Pizza Margherita. BYOB: It can spell trouble, by David Shaw, tells how your favorite restaurant can get into trouble with the law if they allow you to BYOB before they have a liquor license. David tells how it happens and what he's planning to do to support one of this favorite places. Bring out the hidden beauty is Russ Parson's ode to that misunderstood vegetable cauliflower. Russ will educate you as to its hidden beauty and how to bring that beauty out from the shadows. Recipes for Cauliflower custard (a savory dish), Garlicky braised cauliflower with capers, and Quick cauliflower pickles. For Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn comes through with the recipe for Negimaki, a Japanese dish of thin steak rolled around green onions. The Wine of the Week is 2000 Bishop's Peak Central Coast Syrah. Hi, I'll be your menu tonight is Leslee Komaiko's Restaurant Journal about how menus are getting chatty. S. Irene Virbila reviews Rocca in Santa Monica (not Rocco's in New York). She gives the Tuscan style restaurant 2 1/2 stars and recommends Chicken liver crostini, cockles and cannellini beans with pesto, Maine mussels in saffron brodetto, trippa alla fiorentina, ricotta gnocchi with oxtail ragù, fettuccine with chanterelles, pork cheek ravioli, half chicken al mattone, grilled wild boar sausages, venison-stuffed cabbage, and Meyer lemon panna cotta.