horseflesh

Makes sense. I think there's a good chance you'll really enjoy it, whether you standardize on jars or bags. I use mine CONSTANTLY and a couple of friends have them now too, after seeing mine. I do really think that an oil pump is worth the extra dough. The 215 is a nice unit, I almost got it, then decided to go crazy and buy something even more expensive.

I didn't know you could seal Mason jars in a chamber like that. Cool! That said... I am having a hard time imagining when I would want to do it. Bags are so so cheap. The pint bags I use most often are about 3.5 cents, delivered. You can even use a larger bag than needed for the item, cut off the strip, and re-seal it. You can drop a bag in a sous vide bath and get good thermal transfer to the contents. You can give a bag of leftovers to someone and not worry about getting the jar back. But most importantly, bags only take up as much room as the product inside them, but a jar is always the same size. If I used jars instead of bags I would not have room in my fridge for my various leftovers right now. And in my freezer, forgetaboutit. But if jars are top priority, then a cheaper machine with a vacuum hose attachment made for that purpose might be a better choice. An burly chamber sealer with an oil pump, like the 215, would be wasted on jars. IMHO. Not like I should talk about "wasting" money on potential you don't use. I'm pretty guilty of that!

If I can seal "awake" liquid yeast, dry should be no problem at all! if I were you I would do a little experiment: seal some at max vacuum, and some more gently. See if you can discern a difference in vitality. My guess is that there will be little difference since I have seen big bricks of yeast in the store that look like they are sealed very compactly.

I am a home brewer and also wanted to store extra yeast slurry. I contacted a couple of yeast manufacturers and the one that replied said it should not be a problem. So I tried it, and it has worked fine. The yeast is viable for months as it was when I used other vessels. I don't take pains to pump down all the way, I do about 70-80% vacuum, just in case a harder vacuum might be bad for the little guys. In the case of beer, if there is any sugar left in the liquid, they will continue to ferment it and produce CO2, even at fridge temps. A few times I have had to re-bag yeast after a couple of months when the bag swells.

I could have written every word of this. I even have a Minipack too. It truly is one of the best kitchen tools I have ever bought.

We bake a lot and I have a restaurant supply sized sack of brown sugar in a Vittles Vault. I can't even remember how old it is and there's no sign of it going off yet. For brown sugar, at least, unless you are truly storing it for the apocalypse I would not bother sealing it.

I use my sealer constantly. It does take up a lot of counter space, but... it earns it. Find some way to keep it handy. You'll be glad you did.

Congrats! The 215C was on my short list and I bet you will love it. Nice to see some activity on this thread!

The Ultrasource 3 mil bags are definitely thinner than what Vacuum Sealers Unlimited sells as 3 mil. However, they have worked fine for me so far. Maybe they won’t protect as well for long-term freezing, I can’t be sure yet. I sure liked the free shipping though... total cost per bag was far less. I went through 1000 Vac Sealers Unlimited 3 mil bags and rarely needed anything thicker. In the rare event of a puncture, I just double bagged. That is a lot cheaper than trying to stock bags for every occasion. Even with the flimsier Ultrasource bags, I still feel the same. (Hey, I just realized I have calipers, I can measure the bags...)

Yesterday I saw some of this stuff in person, we have a good showroom nearby. I told the sales guy what I was looking for: 30" range, gas only, reliable, with at least one high-BTU burner... "high" being negotiable... everything else open to discussion. I told him my price range was up to $6k for a range and a new hood, but obviously, didn't want to spend more than I had to. He had a strong preference for the Wolf GR304, which they did have a good price on due to one a manufacturer incentive. ($4335) It's a no-frills unit with one big burner, a convention oven, and an IR broiler. He was emphatic that Wolf was the more reliable choice among the low-end high-end. Interestingly he also thought the Wolf was easier to clean, but when I look up Wolf vs Bluestar discussions, that never seems to be the case. This Wolf also has black enamel interior, so if the blue enamel chipping problem is still a thing, I wouldn't have to worry about that. I also looked at the Bluestar RCS while I was there. The GR304 has more features than the RCS, but at least I could see the Bluestar open burners in person finally. And I have to say, I really liked the way the Bluestar was put together, and the shape of the burners, how it looks like it'd be easier to clean, AND the bigger oven. They had that Samsung with the split door too, which looked like a good value, but it's available in dual fuel only. I am not interested in adding electric service right now, so that's out. The sales guy also said that while the Samsungs are not unreliable, "if something goes wrong, good luck" getting service. As long as I am talking about this much dough, I don't think I am interested in the Bluestar RCS because I'd miss both the simmer and wok burner. Right now it feels like it's between the Wolf GR304 and the Bluestar RNB. I asked for a quote on the RNB, though I guess it's just going to be the price I see online everywhere. For hoods, I was steered to the Zephyr Typhoon, which did seem nice. It will work with my existing cabinets/ducting, it's quiet, and will move 850 CFM. I had been thinking I wanted a hood with baffles though, and the Zephyr has a different kind of grease trap. If anyone has experience with this hood I would love to know about it; the claims are very appealing. This is a tough decision!

15-20 is no big deal. I actually do most of my (savory) baking in a ceramic grill, so I obviously don't mind a little setup time.

Barry, thank you for doing that. 18 minutes isn't bad at all, and neither is that temperature swing.

I've read elsewhere that the preheat on a Bluestar RNB oven is pretty slow. I saw one poster somewhere say they won't bother using the oven on a weeknight, which sounds nuts to me. How slow is it? Has anyone gotten time on the Bluestar "Platinum" series? It lists a faster oven preheat. It also costs a heck of a lot more, but setting that aside for now...

It's been a while, anyone have something new to share in the hunt for the ideal range? My oven just started stinking up the house with gas. I am sure it can be repaired, but since it's a 30 year old builder special, I am considering this an opportunity to upgrade. I'm looking for a 30" unit which should include a high-output wok burner. I'm flexible on other features and price, but reliability is critical to me. (Baker-friendly features would be a bonus, my wife likes to bake but she is not a gearhead like me!) I've read that BlueStar is good, though you can expect to need to calibrate the oven and replace igniters on the range, though these are also said to be jobs you can do with just a screwdriver. As far as hardware store brands go I like the look of the dual-oven-zone Samsung that was posed upthread. I'm not opposed to getting something "boring" like Samsung or GE if it meets my needs.

I have a different sealer, but I assume they all operate in similar fashion. If the bags only have marks on one side, then it sure does sound like they aren't getting pinched right. The seal bar is probably lifted by vacuum power, so I would guess that you aren't developing enough vacuum, or that the seal bar isn't moving smoothly for some reason. Since the machine isn't releasing the vacuum either, my guess is that something is fubared in the seal mechanism, preventing it from lifting all the way and then dropping and initiating release. Examine all the moving parts carefully, maybe there is some debris in the way. I cannot think of a reason the textured bags would cause the problems described.

I already have a sealer but I passed this info on to a friend of mine and he went for it. Thanks for sharing!

This is what I am most interested in, too. If I can use a nickel of plastic and gas to extend the life of $5 of bread, that would be great.

Thanks for looking in to this. I bought a Minipack in part because I wanted the option for gas flush, but I never pursued it. After using my sealer for a couple of years I am not honestly sure how much use I'd get out of the gas flush add-on, so I would love to hear from anyone who has one.

Wow, great score on the Minipack! I have a Minipack 35, and have always been interested in the gas flush option. Too bad about the cost. I don't know what's in the kit, not sure if it can be duplicated with off the shelf parts, or if it has new electronics in it as well.

Yep, that is where I got my bags 2 years ago and at that time I don't think they had the variety packs.

No kidding!! I am surprised that none of the vendors are offering smaller packages for us home users. When I got my sealer I got waaaay more bags than I needed because I wanted access to several sizes. After having the sealer for a while I have found that by far I use more of the pint bags than anything else. I probably use 5 pint bags for every quart bag, and 20 pint bags for every gallon bag. That's because a lot of what I do is package single/double servings for sous vide cooking, or package single/double servings of leftovers when I have made a big batch of something. I also make a lot of smoked salmon, cheese, and jerky, and the smaller bags are pretty good for that too. It is definitely true that using a bag which is too small is an exercise in frustration. Too many times I have found myself with a bit of a mess, all for the sake of trying to save a nickel. Someday I'll learn.

If you think you'll not go through 1000 bags, you probably could have bought a cheaper sealer. I have had my chamber about a year and a half, and I have gone through 953 cycles. (Probably 2/3 of those were pint bags.)

That assortment is awesome! They did not have that when I bought bags a couple of years ago... so I have, like, thousands of a size it turns out I don't use. The size I use most, by far, is the 6" x 10" pint bag... but if I could only have one size on hand it would be 8" x 12" quart bag. Sometimes, a pint just isn't big enough. The quart bag is big enough for almost anything, but it doesn't cost a lot more so I wouldn't feel too bad about not using the smallest practical size.

I have a Minipack with a Busch pump so I have some opinions. My Minipack has been running well. I can't compare it to a Vacmaster and so it is hard to say if the Busch pump was worth it... all I know is, it's been working well, and the pump can boil ice water. I honestly find the moisture stop feature to be pretty worthless. You need to go in to that mode specifically and I never take the time; I just hit Stop when I see the inside of the lid fog up, or when the boiling in the bag picks up. Since I often seal a variety of things in one session--for example, a few different kinds of leftovers--it takes more time to use the built in moisture stop feature than to just eyeball it. For a commercial workflow where you needed the machine to run unattended while you prep the next bag, it would probably make more sense. I seal a lot of things with liquids in the bag. Not needing to care about how much liquid there is or how often I do it is great. I think that choosing an oil pump over a dry pump is the most important thing if you are getting a chamber sealer. Getting the better type of oil pump is nice but as a home user with only about 700 cycles on the machine, I have a hard time proving that it was "worth" the expense.

I have had some failed seals but always with good explanation. If I seal something with sharp parts (bones, shrimp shells), I might get a pinhole leak. Now I know to double-bag these things, or pad the bones. Once in a while one of my big 12" bags will shift during pump-down and I will get a wrinkle under the sealer bar, but I can usually trim off the bad seal and try again. Not all wrinkles cause bad seals, but it does happen once in a while.