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Felice

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Felice

  1. If you are lucky enough to be in Paris tomorrow, there's another wine tasting at Caves Augé, with wine makers from Bordeaux including:

    Château Le Queyroux, Premieres Côtes de Blaye, Château Le Puy, Côtes de Francs, Château Massereau, Château Barrail de Guillon, Château Rousset Peyraguey, Domaine de Haut Brugas, Domaine de Jaugaret, Château Palmer, Château Vincent, Château La Bécasse, Château Moulin de la Rose, Château Ségur, Château La Galiane and

    Château Bel Air Marquis d’Aligre

    Unfortunately I have other plans tomorrow and cant make it but would love to hear from any members who went.

    Caves Augé

    13 October

    11h00-19h00

    116 blvd Huassmann, 8th.

  2. I was getting amazing heirlooms all summer long at the Saturday Batignol, they had the best selection of heirlooms including my favorite, the green zebra.

    I have found heirlooms in many of the Paris markets and some of them are not bad, it's just they are not as good as the one's I remember from Pennslvania and NJ. In the summer we had beautiful blood-red tomatoes, without even a hint of mealy texture. They didnt need anything more that a bit of salt and were delicious.

    Here is an article that explains why some tomatoes taste better than others from Columbia University

    Attack of the bland, mealy tomatoes, By Ken Millstone

    The article explains that

    "Good tomato flavor comes from a complex mix of sugar, acid and around 20 natural chemicals. In making a more durable product, tomato breeders have squeezed those elements out of the familiar varieties"

    and that

    "Unfortunately, tomatoes start to lose flavor and become mealy below 55 degrees--a climate that’s not limited to refrigerators. If a tomato has been in a cold semitrailer or cargo hold, even the best breeding and cultivation will have been wasted."

  3. Ok, you two, not to make you jealous, but I have some amazing heirlooms right this minute sitting out on my prep table. Red ugly, yellow, green but not really green (some sort of variety I can't remember-green tiger?).

    We have some really cool farmer's markets, CSA, Fair Food stuff going on in Philly right now, and yes, there's nothing like a Pa/NJ heirloom!

    So, if the season can only last three more weeks, (it's unseasonably warm here)-I'll bring some to the Butter tasting on November 1st!

    Promise.

    Do you think I should pack them as gently as possible, wrapped well in my luggage, or do you think I can try to carry them in my carry on?

    TarteTatin,

    I would be in absolute heaven if you managed to smuggle some in. Perhaps it's just not warm enough in Paris and you need to travel South for great tomatoes.

  4. Host's Note Since we had wondered off the topic of where to live that has a good market into tomatoes, I thought it merited a separate topic. I hope you'all'll agree.

    I've only been in Paris for a little over a year and I currently live in the 6th arr.

    I should mention at this point that I am a tomato snob. I grew my own (and froze enough to cover the winter) when I lived in Pennsylvania. I developed a taste for the heirloom tom sliced while still warm from the sun, so I'm pretty difficult to please on that front. I've been combing Paris for a decent tomato for a while now. I had been hoping to find one this September and I did find some good ones at the bio stand in the Ave Pres. Wilson market. I was not happy with Thiebault's toms. They weren't ripe. Not his fault - I don't see how he could get them ripe with the weather the Paris region has been plagued with this summer (I understand the agriculteurs are all complaining about it).

    I would be very interested if anyone else has seen great tomatoes (especially heirlooms aka "tomates a l'ancienne") elsewhere.

    CavePullum

    Cavepullum,

    I too have been searching for tomatoes as good as we had back home (I am from Philadelphia ) and I'm sad to say that so far I have not found anything that comes close. The texture is always a bit mealy, even when I buy organic heirloom tomatoes. Actually, I have a friend from La Derniere Goutte who told me she had met someone who was as obsessed as I was by finding great tomatoes in Paris, so I think it must be you :smile:

  5. Welcome Ajgnet,

    I think you are about to have a remarkable year. Luckily, I am still enchanted with Paris, but when you first arrive, and everything is new, it can be really magical. I am so happy that you plan on sharing your experiences with us.

  6. I'm not sure this answered my question. :smile:

    I always thought the two terms were used interchangably, one possibly a British/American term and the other being French. I think in France, I usually hear the term Néo-bistro and have no idea if this term is used in English. It wasn't when I lived in the US as far as I remember.

    I think I remember Ptipois answering this question at some point, so hopefully she will chime in.

  7. Disclaimer: The places I listed below are not necessarily favorites in each category and don't include many of my favorite places, because they aren't necessarily appropriate for first timers. I think we need to remember that John asked for places for someone's 'very first trip' to Paris, so I would consider things like neighborhood, expectations, and even personality. I would be more likely to recommend something in a central part of Paris over more off the tourist track parts like the 19th or 20th.

    One classic brasserie Bofinger, Gallopin

    One classic bistrot: Chez Georges, Chez Denise

    Gastro-Bistro*: La Violin D'Ingres, Clos des Gourmet, L'Os à Moelle

    Neo Bistro*: l’Ami Jean, Paul Bert, Regalade, Troquet

    One bustling fun place Fish,(Chartier if the food wasn't so bad)

    One good fish place: Bistro du Dome

    Wine bar: Le Rubis

    One meat place: Relais d'Entrecote, Le Relais de Venise -

    One post-modern one: Chateaubriand, Jean

    A star experience: Taillevent, Bristol

    I am not entirely clear how people are defining Neo-Bistro and Gastro-Bistro and if there is a clear difference.

    To me a classic bistro would be one that is really serving classic dishes without updating them.

  8. Thanks to the new Velib, I jumped on a bike this morning and rode to Blé Sucré, a shop I had wanted to try for some time, to buy baguettes and pastries for breakfast instead of settling for the local boulangerie. Their whole grain bread was especially delicious and probably tasted all the better after riding through the streets of Paris when most of the city was still sleeping.

    Blé Sucré

    Square Trousseau

    7 rue Antoine Vallon

    75012

  9. Ptipois, I am so glad that you mentioned the market at the cours de Vincennes. I have been twice now and even though I have the Marché Charonne at my doorstep on Saturday mornings, I think it's worth walking the extra few blocks to Nation. They have several produce vendors marked 'producteurs', which I assume means they grow their vegetables themselves. In any event, it was obvious that they were selling local vegetables and there was quite a difference in taste compared to the tasteless supermarket variety. They may not have the most exotic selection, but the greens I bought were amazing, the carrots full of flavor. They had beautiful cepes, shallots, and turnips. Definitely a reason to buy local and in season, it makes all of the difference in the world.

  10. Thanks John - I was thinking about Spring, but wasn't sure how he'd feel about booking the whole place out. 

    I doubt Spring would book any longer on a weeknight, but as long as you can gaurantee a minimum number you can book the entire place on Saturday nights. But if only 12 friends show, you pay for 16, at least I would imagine this is how it works.

    I was recently at the Cremerie in the 6th and they will reserve the entire place if you can guarantee a certain number of guests.

  11. Like Julot, I would probably apt for a more authentic bistro like L'Ami Jean, Paul Bert, etc over Benoit.

    I was a bit disapointed with a recent dinner there, not so much for the food which was very good but no better than any of my favorite bistros which are 1/2 the price. The decor is beautiful and probably worth the expense. Unfortunately on the evening I went, we were surrounded by a group of loud, badly dressed tourists (too bad they didn't read this thread) which unfortunately took away from the experience, so perhaps my take isn't fair. Someone had even thrown up in the bathroom :huh: , which isn't really something you expect to find in a one-star.

  12. There is fromage fort, old scraps of cheese kept in a pot, doused with strong spirits and left for weeks of an intense fermentation. I never could stomach that.

    I have heard rumors of a cheese which is said to be covered in live maggots but have yet to have seen it. Can anyone confirm its existence?

  13. I think it depends on your starting point. I doubt many of the foods you listed would be considered strange for most Society members, but would be unthinkable for many Americans.

    I am very thankful that I am not squeamish in the least bit and will happily try most foods. I know plenty of Americans (and some natives come to think of it) who wouldn't dare try things like blood sausage, pig's feet, organs meats and even strong cheeses. I think becoming involved in the cuisine of a country helps you become more immersed in its culture. This has certainly been true for me in France. I often have French friends tell me I am 'more French' than they are because of the way I eat.

    Probably the strangest thing I have eaten in France would be cow's utters (crisply fried in a salad), duck tongues (delicious) and pig's ears, which were rather bland and had a disagreeable texture. The last two however, were not in a French restaurant as you may have guessed.

  14. Taking Ptipois' cue, I've started this threads to discuss favorite places to buy and drink tea in Paris.

    I normally buy my tea at either Mariage Frere or the Palais du Thé but would welcome other suggestions.

    This discussion reminds me that I would like to try the Maison des trois thés in the 5th (Ptipois, I am sure you have been)

    The mosque de Paris (below) is an idyllic place to sip mint tea, even if the quality of the tea is somewhat generic.

    gallery_7346_2565_1919.jpg

  15. For those who have the opportunity to go there or stay there, the Cours de Vincennes market (starting at Nation eastwards) is one of the largest and most interesting in Paris.

    I am ashamed to say that I have lived within a 10 minute walk of this market for nearly three years and have never been because there is a market just at my doorstep. I will try to go this weekend. Merci Ptipois for the tip.

  16. Thinking of taking husband to Paris for his birthday and am looking for a good "experience" meal for Saturday lunch on the Eurostar. We've eaten at Tour d'Argent and Jules Verne so those are out. Considering Lassere, Prunier, Pre Catalan, Grande Cascade

    Any tips, recommendations for me ? Not interested in Taillevent as we did the "old school" experience at T d'A.

    Fibilou, you might want to start your search here, a compendium of threads on lunch suggestions in Paris.

  17. I live in the 11th bordering the 20th and have two very nice markets within a five minute walk, but they are nothing worth crossing town for, just simple neighbourhood markets with a mix of stalls, some which are better than others. Sometimes on Sundays I will walk to the marché Aligre since they have things that I can't find in my market. The covered market is much more upscale than the street vendors whose prices are possibly the cheapest in Paris. Beware however that low prices can mean tasteless or even rotten vegetables. I once bought three mangos there which went from rock hard to rotten without ever being ripe.

    Two other markets that I like are the marché des enfants rouges and the Bastille market.

    I have also heard good things about the market near the Place des fetes in the 19th but haven’t been.

  18. I'm here in Paris and want to have a drink on Monday night at the Ritz.  Can anyone recommend a restaurant (hopefully close enough to walk to) near the Ritz.  Something French, a brasserie?  Thank you!

    Jean

    If you want to stay in the neighborhood you could walk to the marché Saint Honoré where you will find Caroline Rostang's L'Absinthe. Or for Corsican, that gets very good reviews, there is A Casa Luna.

    I had a very good meal at le Gallopin, a beautiful brasserie with traditional French cooking which is only a few blocks away, however John was disappointed (Pudlo, however, gave it a coup de coeur last year). www.brasseriegallopin.com. And there is le Vaudeville, which is a Flo brasserie meaning that the food isn't spectacular but the setting normally is.

    Has anyone been to Le Dauphin, that's in the neighborhood as well but I haven't been.

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