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chefg

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  1. I wanted to personally report that I have been very recently diagnosed with an advanced stage of Squamous Cell Carcinoma of the mouth. I have consulted several prominent physicians and will likely begin aggressive treatment within the next few weeks. I remain, and will remain, actively and optimistically engaged in operations at Alinea to the largest extent possible. Alinea will continue to perform at the level people have come to expect from us -- I insist on that. I have received amazing support from friends, family, and everyone who has thus far been told of the disease, and I look forward to a full, cancer-free, recovery. [Moderator's Note: If you would like to share your wishes for Chef Achatz's quick return to health, you can do so by clicking on this link, which will take you to a Member News topic devoted to the subject. -- CA]
  2. It is ...that is why I drafted a letter and sent it to over 350 contacts...warning them. The money is the lesser issue for me personally. What is the problem is the breech of trust and the repercussions it has not only on Montreal specifically, but how it shades future decisions to participate in these types of events. Which is a shame because they are beneficial in many ways for both the chef and the people attending the workshops.
  3. ← Like me, Goldfarb, Liebrandt....for example.
  4. I think it would beneficial for both the readership and the staff of Alinea to hear Jason articulate exactly what his preconceived notions where, and why they existed. What media outlets contributed to them? ← Grant, I think primarily it was the fact that I felt that there was a level of weirdness about the special serving peices which I could not fathom being an important element of the dishes, and that if you just look at pictures of the food without actually eating them, it all just looks like strangely presented stuff rather than "food". Mind you I also had the same thoughts about Ferran Adria's cuisine, but after having your tasting, I may very well be able to accept it and even want to go dine there now -- although your cuisine is even more perciveably food-like than his. I think you said the most extreme dish you made was the "virtual" shrimp cocktail served in an atomizer, which is the sort of thing (in level of weirdness) he does all the time. I think what is important to understand (and as I said to you afterwards) is that if you just took your food and put them on regular round plates like many fine dining establishments do, you would loose the "interactive" element of the cuisine. For example, the langoustine tempura dish needs that upright wire spider in order for the vanilla bean it's stuck on to be grabbed by the diner (so he can drop it, "V" lizard-man like, like a live mouse into his mouth) and it really shows off the dish. Another example would be the one suspended on a long wire where you have to bend over and grab the morsel in your mouth -- if you had to use a fork that dish certainly wouldn't be as fun. So many of your dishes are "interactive" in nature -- you just sort of have to throw out all your pre-conceived baggage about what constitutes the dining experience and embrace the fun and the flavors themselves, none of which are "weird". They're pure and evoke basic food and flavor memories. I still feel the plating presentations themselves are very unorthodox, but it makes you appreciate the dishes more. ← I am glad you recognized the purpose of the pieces and I can see where someone who has not experienced Alinea may perceive the compositions as new or never seen before…which can sometimes lead to them thinking they won’t find the food tasty….which is too bad. Martin and I spend a great deal of time in all stages of development making sure the pieces are not only aesthetically appealing but also more importantly functional. All of the aspects that you noted are very intentional and important to us. The interaction between food and guest is a critical part of the uniqueness of the Alinea dining experience. And furthermore Martin has no interest in making solely beautiful service pieces. It must have a purpose before we even begin the process. A large part of the service pieces success rests on the front of house staff. They are the human component that either softens, explains, or elaborates on their purpose and how they work…depending on what that particular guest needs.
  5. I think it would beneficial for both the readership and the staff of Alinea to hear Jason articulate exactly what his preconceived notions where, and why they existed. What media outlets contributed to them?
  6. Salt-packed anchovies. They're rather difficublt to find. other than through mail order. ← I am thinking black truffle explosions....definitely black truffle explosions...what do you think John?
  7. Hearts of Palm were back on this past Thursday night -- but with 5 new fillings. It'll be interesting to see if they appear on the anniversary menu and if they do, in what form. =R= ← We brought back the hearts of palm for Ferran, that is why it was served this past Thursday. We are in the process of compiling the list of total "unique" dishes created here thus far...right now we have combed thru August - October and ended up with 75. That means there are at least 50+ from May/June July,and at least that many from Nov-through the end of 2005. My guess is we will hit 275 or so by the time May 2006 rolls around, which comes out to over one dish per service. When I say unique dishes I mean we will not count protein swaps or minor ingredient changes...for instance Black Cod replacing Skate....or Morels swapping out for Shiitakes. Anyway, the way were are deciding are as follows: 1.Personal poll of the staff -kitchen and FOH (their personal opinions plus their observance and communication with the 16,000 or so guests that have dined at the restaurant in the first year) 2. Blog research-- several hundred foodies have dined here and posted several hundred reviews/comments on their favorites within various sites. 3. Critic/food writer responses -- printed media opinions 4. And the only limiting factor seasonality...being that it will be in May, tough to do dishes like Bison on the Juniper Branch, or the chestnut in spring.
  8. The current running average is 4 hours 23 mintues...some have finished in 3 hours...it solely depends on how fast you eat, if you or a member of your party gets up alot during the meal, which wine program you choose, and if you are taking photos.
  9. Why? Why wouldn't it be a restaurant where we offered tasting menus simular to what we do at Alinea ...but dishes of the past?Why do people want to make this cuisine "more approachable" Isn't that one aspect of what makes it special ..... it's un-approachability? Why turn it into a sushi concept of ordering it "by the peice" or large verions of the same food in an ala carte setting? Would it be the same? does ordering a great piece of toro nigiri (or 5!) make it less special because it is more approachable? I don't think so.In a tasting menu it makes sense to have an integrated whole that is composed and balanced -- and certainly a tasting menu could be available. But why not have the tapas/sushi bar of black truffle explosions etc.? Hell, I am at Alinea most days and I don't get to eat them! You of all people should know why it is more special to have a format that is controlled by the house. How special is the explosion when you can get a dozen of them at will? Ron—was the first or the second explosion better?Everyone has to admit there is something unique/special to a tasting menu format that an ala carte or tapas/sushi style service cannot provide. Isn't that why you have Alinea. Restaurant x would support Alinea, but the menu structure is different. Alinea would be the special and restaurant x be the regular. I can't see myself having everyday be a special day. Though I could have many regular days. But why would restaurant X be everyday? In fact, by saying that it would be everyday, aren't we diminishing the dishes that once made Trio and Alinea not everyday? Why can't the two concepts exist just like the French Laundry and Per Se exist? Why wouldn't it be more attractive than that, being that no dishes would overlap at the two restaurants? Why can't this concept just bring forth two great four star restaurants? I think one of the (many) reasons why FL and PS works is that is not in the same area. I was under the assumption that restaurant X would be in Chicago. Perhaps one intention for opening up Bouchon is to take in the others who are unable to make it to the FL. Then maybe a restaurant Y is in order. Anyways... While you have the mike, care to comment on what is store after the break. Any major (or minor) changes? How about mid year? Anniversary? Care to share an outlined plan of the coming months. I ask, so that docsconz (and other non-locals) can plan out their Chicago visits. We will re-open with the basically the same menu we closed with. This will allow us a smooth transition back into the flow and able us to offer the best possible experience to the guests dining shortly after we return. I expect major changes to happen two to three weeks after the re-opening. Actually Nick and I were just talking about the first anniversary today. Inspired by some of your comments, and a few of our past thoughts, we thought it would be nice to open the restaurant up to an “open house” type of venue for the first anniversary. The restaurant would be set up with several stations serving different unique bites….with any luck maybe Martin will be able to develop several pieces of service ware that would effectively serve people in a group setting, similar to the way the mass antenna did at the MCA event. Rather than have a conventional seated dinner on May 4th 2006 that limits us to include only 70 guests…why not make it a larger affair….where several hundred people can come and celebrate our birthday…and sample some innovative cuisine, specially designed for a group setting. The guests get to mingle with the chefs and sample the food in an environment that is different than the normal Alinea experience. And the proceeds go to a charity. I guess we have four months to figure it all out.
  10. Why? Why wouldn't it be a restaurant where we offered tasting menus simular to what we do at Alinea ...but dishes of the past?Why do people want to make this cuisine "more approachable" Isn't that one aspect of what makes it special ..... it's un-approachability? Why turn it into a sushi concept of ordering it "by the peice" or large verions of the same food in an ala carte setting? Would it be the same? does ordering a great piece of toro nigiri (or 5!) make it less special because it is more approachable? I don't think so.In a tasting menu it makes sense to have an integrated whole that is composed and balanced -- and certainly a tasting menu could be available. But why not have the tapas/sushi bar of black truffle explosions etc.? Hell, I am at Alinea most days and I don't get to eat them! You of all people should know why it is more special to have a format that is controlled by the house. How special is the explosion when you can get a dozen of them at will? Ron—was the first or the second explosion better?Everyone has to admit there is something unique/special to a tasting menu format that an ala carte or tapas/sushi style service cannot provide. Isn't that why you have Alinea. Restaurant x would support Alinea, but the menu structure is different. Alinea would be the special and restaurant x be the regular. I can't see myself having everyday be a special day. Though I could have many regular days. ← But why would restaurant X be everyday? In fact, by saying that it would be everyday, aren't we diminishing the dishes that once made Trio and Alinea not everyday? Why can't the two concepts exist just like the French Laundry and Per Se exist? Why wouldn't it be more attractive than that, being that no dishes would overlap at the two restaurants? Why can't this concept just bring forth two great four star restaurants?
  11. You are young, so a brief hiatus from cooking would not hurt you at all, and probably would be beneficial. My time spent at the winery was far more beneficial than I could have ever imagined.
  12. Yes but the point would be that Alinea is the think tank, the new, the cutting edge….and even as restaurant X would absorb the dishes that have fallen away from Alinea, restaurant X would also be continually moving forward as it recycles the best dishes of the umbrella. The fact is it could afford an opportunity to shore up the “perceived downfalls” of this style of cuisine…the fact that it always pushes forward…waiting for none would than be put to rest because in fact if you didn’t catch it the first time around there is another opportunity. I think it is a rarity for people to come to the restaurant out of fear that they may lose the opportunity to sample a particular dish. It seems that most might appreciate the chance to eat dishes that they have missed. Why don’t we ask our Spanish friends how the el Bulli Hotel is doing? Are people interested in the idea of retrospective cuisine? That being said what if Alinea decided to cook classically for a short period of time? A couple of months ago a regular guest came in. Being that he had just eaten the tour a week prior we decided to cook one course very differently. For his “Honeycomb course” …instead of the Opah we roasted a whole lobe of Foie Gras…..it was beautiful….it was classical…and 17 cooks stood there in awe as Chef Peters portioned the lobe for four people….one saying…”why can’t you buy that anywhere…I would love to eat that” Is it about cooking? Or about cooking style? Can one restaurant be spontaneous with its style?
  13. but imagine if three great chefs opened a restaurant together….they all brought their strengths….their best dishes…and put them under one roof…how amazing would that be? ← that was my point exactly. ← Two chefs...it could only work with two.
  14. Why? Why wouldn't it be a restaurant where we offered tasting menus simular to what we do at Alinea ...but dishes of the past? Why do people want to make this cuisine "more approachable" Isn't that one aspect of what makes it special ..... it's un-approachability? Why turn it into a sushi concept of ordering it "by the peice" or large verions of the same food in an ala carte setting? Would it be the same? ← does ordering a great piece of toro nigiri (or 5!) make it less special because it is more approachable? I don't think so. In a tasting menu it makes sense to have an integrated whole that is composed and balanced -- and certainly a tasting menu could be available. But why not have the tapas/sushi bar of black truffle explosions etc.? Hell, I am at Alinea most days and I don't get to eat them! ← You of all people should know why it is more special to have a format that is controlled by the house. How special is the explosion when you can get a dozen of them at will? Ron—was the first or the second explosion better? Everyone has to admit there is something unique/special to a tasting menu format that an ala carte or tapas/sushi style service cannot provide.
  15. It wasn’t that long ago where you would never see another famous movie star in the same picture with other….now it is common…sometimes as many as 5 uber-stars in the same picture…do they bring more worth to the film? Does it draw more to watch it? Does it improve the quality of the picture? I am not sure ….but imagine if three great chefs opened a restaurant together….they all brought their strengths….their best dishes…and put them under one roof…how amazing would that be?
  16. Why? Why wouldn't it be a restaurant where we offered tasting menus simular to what we do at Alinea ...but dishes of the past? Why do people want to make this cuisine "more approachable" Isn't that one aspect of what makes it special ..... it's un-approachability? Why turn it into a sushi concept of ordering it "by the peice" or large verions of the same food in an ala carte setting? Would it be the same?
  17. No, San Francisco, Shanghai, Chicago if you hurry up, i'll meet you in shanghai later this year! if you were to open in shanghai, do you anticipate that you'll have to change your approach/technique/ingredients to tailor to the preferences of eastern palates? or, do you expect that your food, as it is now, is "international" enough to be a success abroad? on the flip side of that question, perhaps it could also be a question of whether you feel foreign palates are receptive to outside cuisines/approaches? u.e. ← Having never been to that part of the world I can’t really answer that question with confidence. But from what diners from Tokyo and Hong Kong have said, the cuisine of Alinea has several aesthetic and philosophical similarities of the food in these countries. Or at least similarities in social and gastronomic traditions. Certainly we embrace the sweet savory balance much like some the regions in China, and one can find several similarities to the experience that is offered in the Japanese Kaiseki meals. It seems like the presentations would be respected in this part of the world…at least from the innovative stance. At the same time aren’t there several traditional French restaurants in that part of the world that are held in high regard? Do they alter their style to cater to the palates of the people…or is that what the people of the region are drawn to…something different than what they have at their immediate disposal?
  18. Yes! 4 black truffle explosions (savory) and 4 bacons (sweet). No really, I think it is a great idea. I have had so many friends that want to experience your dishes, but are a little hesitant because of the cost and time involved. Ordering small items, puts the diner back in control. I feel Alinea is a major commitment. Once you are there, it is the whole evening. But sometimes I would like something small, then maybe watch a play, and come back for a big finish. Restaurant x diners, can come and go as they please, sort of. I think restaurant x diners will primarily be guests that have had your cuisine before, but it could also be a platform to get people to go to the flagship. Nice. And thank you for that. This is a challenge. Or should I say, this is the challenge. Is it possible to recover the taste buds once it has been engulfed with spicy ingredients? ← Very difficult in my experience.
  19. Ultimately does it need to be me? At one point in 2000 I was at the pass several nights a week at the French Laundry, which means chef Keller was not there. At that time when you asked the staff or even me if I felt the restaurant was any different… I would say the edge was off…but ask him or the guests, and they might tell a different story. Ducasse holds how many Michelin stars, and is he in ANY kitchen these days? Chef Keller is not in the Per Se kitchen often, yet how have they have managed to be one of the greatest restaurants in the country? Yes my credo is to be in the kitchen…hands on. But that requires a great deal of time…so in the case of Alinea what is most important? Ideas or execution? Does Ferran cook? Or does he come up with the brilliant ideas, do a fantastic job of directing like a CEO of a fortune 500 company, and let the staff execute his ideas? What is the most effective use of his time? Scaling sardines or coming up with the next “melon caviar”? At this point I have two sous chefs that have worked with me for 5 and 3.5 years respectively. They know how I think and what the standard is. Is it out of the question to assume that they could run a kitchen with the same standards as I? Given my history and there tenure I have to say no. It is very sad that Trio will close…but Henry doesn’t see it as such…because he is Henry of course. I doubt there will be a 60-course extravaganza…but I suspect there will be some type of offering where all the past chefs will get together to honor a man that has done a great deal for fine dining in this country.
  20. Well if you are taking votes. Restaurant X could be a place where one can go and order à la Carte. I think you will reach a broader range of customers. Yeah, keep Alinea as the flagship. chefg What are your thoughts with spicy food. You mentioned upthread that you prepare curry for yourself. Is there a dish in the works that engages the spicy side of the palate at Alinea? Perhaps a deconstructed Tabasco sauce. Or a rainbow of international curry flavors. Vindaloo? ← What if restaurant X were a "tapas" or "sushi" concept that offered all of the best one bite courses that we have ever offered...plus some more substantial ones…almost like a sushi bar concept…you come in a order 4 black truffle explosions, a few shrimp tempura on vanilla beans, some cheese n’ crackers, so on and so forth…then you order a substantial main course and dessert? Ask any member of the staff and they will tell you hands down I have a sensitive palate when it comes to spicy food. Most of the time I feel the sensation of heat mares the observance of flavor. It is a running joke at the restaurant…as John Peters the sous chef, as well a few members of the staff, that are routinely responsible for the staff meal preparation, openly love hot food. Sometimes when they are feeling especially nice they prepare a side pot of “chef’s” food. Translation = the staff meal is f*&%$#! Hot so we made a lighter version for chef so we don’t get yelled at. But I have a vivid memory of an instance that happened in culinary school that to this day shapes how I cook for guests. One of the chef instructors commented on a dishes quality to a student in a negative manner. The reason they said openly was that this person hated cilantro. I felt this was very unfair…for a chef to judge the quality of a dish based on his/her personal likes/dislikes. From that day on I have used ingredients that I don’t particularly enjoy…..for the benefit of the guest. The one thing that does bother me about really spicy food in the context of dining is how it reacts with alcohol. To pair wines with a very spicy food is difficult….obviously the heat is intensified by the alcohol to the point where flavor is lost. I guess for that particular course we could pair with a non-alcoholic beverage…but….
  21. Howdy Chef, You know, I'm pretty sure Adria has already done this. I read somewhere (maybe the website) that the El Bulli Hotel restaurant serves menus which highlight and showcase some of the past dishes from El Bulli. I, for one, would love to try some of the past Trio dishes. How about the cured goose, foie dish with the brick of stuffing? All the best, CZ edit: i just looked it up. they've got two michelin stars for a menu of oldies but goodies. ← Sure CZ ...burst the bubble. .. Yes, the goose would probably make the list...but is it a viable concept? Would people go to see the old…or would it be “old” if they never had a chance to see it when it was “new”….or would they go specifically to get it because when they first had it they liked it so much they were mad when it was gone? Is the concept of restaurant X the same concept of some of the most successful and highly regarded restaurants in the world? Proven great dishes that are executed at the highest level everytime….people going there knowing what to expect, and excited about that? Does it fill a void that transient cuisine leaves?
  22. Don Light: Wow... a blast from the past….what a small world egullet bridges…. Good question…certainly my days at my parent’s restaurant had a huge positive effect on my current position. It was there that I learned how to move…move fast… in the trenches so to speak. So if there is anything that I brought it was confidence and kitchen sensibilities. But whether I have directly imported anything from Achatz Restaurant….not yet…but a recent discussion with my fiancé reminded me of a great little bite of food that I used to snack on in the kitchen of the restaurant since I was probably 6. French Fries wrapped in pickle…it is a great bite….and somehow I need to bring that to Alinea. Hope you are well.
  23. A large mortle and pestle arrived this morning via fed ex. ← To what purpose(s)? Chef, thank you for what has so far been a very illuminating session. How do you envision those restaurants in S.F., Shanghai and Chicago? It struck me in your responses that at least one of them would be a sort of repository for your dishes. Is that, in fact your vision or is it something else? Do you see Alinea as always being the flagship of any future restaurants like Jean-George is J-G-V's? ← With all of the hoopla with paco jets, thermomixers, and homogenizers I wanted to go backwards….to the very basic of tools and see what I have overlooked. Going forward is not always the answer I am finding out. Do you think that would work? Do you think that concept is valid? Martin and I had a long discussion about it one day several months ago…I will be the first one to admit it is a shame to forget some of the great dishes that this team has produced…I think of the black truffle explosion, the shrimp/vanilla tempura, the pushed foie gras, beef A-1, Rootbeer of Beef, Cheese n’ cracker, spice water, lychee and oyster cream, the balloon of mozzarella …the list goes on and on…most restaurants would run some of those forever and be done. We haven’t even mentioned the service ware….there are pieces that we have retired…the tripod, when the hearts of palm went away so did the sectional plates….and soon with the new crop of service ware coming in others will disappear. It is the founding philosophy for this restaurant to create. So if Alinea is the incubator…of food and service ware…and we continue to create ….why not bring those greatest hits back in a different location? Doc…have you ever had the original pushed foie gras? Would you like to try it? What about the balloon of mozzarella? I think beyond the obvious business angle there are compelling reasons to bring a restaurant like this life. What are your thoughts, you guys are the patrons…I am just the chef. What if everything at Alinea was new…always? And everything at restaurant X was a greatest hit? Is there a need/desire for that?
  24. I can’t say that I see a restaurant collaboration happening anywhere. Specifically here in the US, while I think the group of chefs you are referring to (myself, Chef Cantu and Dufresne) consider ourselves respected peers….we don’t meet or chat regularly about new ideas, techniques or ingredients. Nor do I feel that relationship exists in Spain or any other country. Certainly if someone were to stage or work at Alinea they could ask anything and an honest answer would follow, we don’t hide anything here from anyone….. Aside from a few “Culinary Conferences” overseas …which are nothing more than demos by a variety of chefs, there is no sharing or brainstorming to further this style of food that I know of. That is a romantic idea though. Some say the opposite about these venues…using it is an opportunity to state claim to a new idea/technique. If Chef Adria demos a new technique at Madrid Fusion than it is stamped. Is it with the intent of sharing or laying claim? What if there was a true collaboration amongst chefs? What if two or three great chefs got together and created a concept around their unique culinary voices? They partnered in a restaurant that somehow showcased the personalities of these chefs but at the same time managed to seamlessly merge the styles into a single experience? That would be exciting.
  25. For now it will be the two menu options. As Nick said less than 10% of guests were ordering the 6 course option…but that option was always there for them. Often times when guests would make reservations they would state they would be doing the 6 course menu as they felt 12 would be too much food. This happened frequently with larger parties. The reservationist would take note of that, and the kitchen would prepare accordingly. 8 times out of ten those people would end up ordering the 12 course menu. Hopefully this is a baby step towards only having one menu….which would be a personal goal of mine. The internal bet right now is by having only the 12 course and the tour at roughly 26 courses….will the number of tours ordered per night increase or decrease?
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