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I have read McGee but not Herve. I have a problem with these books to a certain degree. We find it easier to formulate a question or problem first, and than research the solution. Often times the writtings are not specific enough to help us. For example: We began recently exploring caramelization, of all foodstuffs but primarily dairy. We wanted to determine if the browning of sugars could be accomplished at low temperatures. In the past a chef would associate caramelization with a hot pan or a salamander. We have found that many things will brown under consistant low temperature, if it applied for long periods of time. Taking a block of mozzarella cheese and sous-vide cooking it for 22 hours at 185 degrees produced a dark brown and highly flavorful cheese reminicent to the top of a pizza. These writtings can help us in some ways by provoking questions and even answering some, but the most effective way for the Trio team is confrontation of the goal and working backwards. We have also started relationships with food scientists in the area, this is new, but we are excited at the possibilities.

Trio feels the dinning experience is exactly that, an experience. As I said before guests are not in the restaurant because they are hungry. Who doesn't like to laugh? When we see guests confronted with an item that is not identifiable by it's name, but tastes of the original, they smile or laugh, sometimes while shaking their head. It is entertaining, thought provoking, and fun. It adds to the overall experience. With the level of dinning continually rising, and the demand for services rendered in relation to cost more crucial in today's market, people gravitate towards things that are multifulfilling. If Trio can satiate and entertain a guest for 4 hours or longer it is in the minority as far as restaurants go. This is appealing to most, but not to all. While many high level restaurants in this country turn towards comfort style foods in a time of security, we push the other way. Trio wants people to be so involved in the meal, both from a phyical and mental state, that all focus is devoted to the experience at hand not the troubles of the world. It's another way to achieve the same goal. From the kitchen perspective we choose to highlight certain flavors that compose a well known dish carefully. A menu with too many "quotes" and twisted familar food would be boring and campy.

Cabrales: Answered in another post above.

Cabrales: Three Star Restaurants that I have eaten at in Europe: Arzak el Bulli Georges Blanc Boyer Enotecca Pincchiori Berastugie el Raco Con Fabes Taillivant Restaurants that I am familar with that I feel are a part of the movement: el Bulli Berastugie Gagnaire Veyrat Bras Arpege The Fat Duck

Chef Haney was the only member of the kitchen team that stayed during the transition from Chef McClain to the current chef. The two have grown stylistically together and formed a seamless partnership in the voice of the food served at the restaurant. Total creative freedom is given to Chef Haney and she executes the desserts within the given style of the cuisine served by the restaurant. Dish concepualization is primarily handled by Chef Haney with some ideas given in the creative thinktank of the brigade. As mentioned in an earlier post, every member of the staff is very clear as to the food style and goals we are trying to reach with the cuisne. This makes the transition seemless when creating long tasting menus. With regard to the discovery process I would reiterate the importance of the brigade and it's tireless commitment to the process itself. Once the commitment is made to do highly creative food a huge challenge is placed on the kitchen. The thought processes are longer, more detailed and sometimes fail as you enter unfamiliar territory. Unfortunatly there are generalization to the process except it is our goal to create. Dishes materialize from tools, ie: zyliss grater in the Grated Point Reyes Blue Cheese dried banana pudding, mint, white chocolate, concentrating on popcorn after an old air popper was brought into the kitchen, to produce the amuse Caramel Popcorn, from techniques such as stabilizing the state of a liquid to make it possile to be contained by pasta, sugar or other wrapping as in the Black Truffle Explosion from reinvention like the Bubble Tea sencha, steelhead roe, cucumber, dill a play on the Asian tapioca drink, from specific ingredients like the Bavarios of Golden Trout Roe yuzu, ginger, mango using the amazing hand made roe from native Michigan Brook Trout which unaminously drew us to those three ingredients. The Brigade as we know it now will slowly become obsolete with the introduction of the new cuisine. The techniques from savory and sweet and vise versa become blurred as sugar and ice creams become evident in savory applications, while savory components become more used in sweet dishes. The handling of these interchangable techniques and ingredients brings a more universal cook.No longer will there be tasks handled by "specialists" in the kitchen. The tasks of the entire kitchen will become more homogenized as techniques and ingredients are spread over the repetoire.

The Tour de Force flucuates between 12 to 20% of covers. January 2003 was the highest number of TDF we have served at Trio since it's inception over a year ago. The number of diners that choose that option has steadily risen. This trend is exciting for Trio, as the composition of its guests shift to a more "foodie" cliental. The menu offers the most creative food served at the restaurant and can be ordered spontaniously, although we encourge awareness at the time of reservation if the guests have made the commitment to the menu before arriving at the restaurant. It is currently 22 courses long, course being a reletive term for dishes as small as a stamp, but 22 compositions will be consumed by the diner.Vegetarian and no meat menus have been served, with less enthusium from the kitchen due to the limitations on techniques using gelatin and certain animal products. The average diner will take 4 hours to complete the meal, this is variable due to number in your party, how fast you eat, the sense of urgency in the kitchen, and if wine flights are being consumed with the meal. The menu is composed of dishes both from the 4 course, the eight course and items not on either menu. It is designed to flow from begining to end in a progression of flavors, textures, techniques and temperatures.

SIGNATURE DISHES Trio has made a general decision to not have signature dishes. It prevents futher creativity. Although some dishes will stay on the menu for long stretches of time like the lobster with rosemary vapor. Some may go away for long periods and reappear as totally reworked dishes like the "rootbeer"of beef that is currently on the menu. The kitchen team at Trio bores with dishes after a certain period. We often reflect back on dishes that we felt good about at the time but would not put them on the menu now. I feel we advance at a rapid pace, and it shows in the food. The menus run very seasonally and only dishes that defy seasonality remain for longer than 2-3 months. As soon as a new menu is in place the team begins the task of developing the new menu, it never stops. We do not have the luxury of being seasonal. To be able to take a few months off to just "create" must be wonderful! The development process is lead by the chef, but the kitchen is very collabrative in nature. Discusscions are held to brainstrom new ideas and elevate the current set of dishes. The staff is incredibly special in this regard. A thinktank environment is present. The staff is fully aware of all techniques, no secrets are held, they are ones executing the food. As far as philosophy, the team is very aware of our goal, parameters, style, and focus. This is achieved by both being submersed in the environment and through diliberate discussions on it. Even the waitstaff is highly tuned in to concepts of the food and overall method.

Cabrales: Yes, although my feel time is very limited, especially since discovering egullet! The last post addressed to Steve may give you some understanding of my views on the state of restaurants in Chicago. I have dinned at Trotter's TRU, Carlos, Topolobomo, Spring, Campagnola, Blackbird, Aruns, Le Francais, and I am sure more but I can't recall. I don't review restaurants, sorry.

Steve: I have highlighted above a few things I want to hit on. Interesting comment on worldwide market, and perfectly valid. I disagree with el Bulli being lesser known than most 3 star restaurants. With the exception of Ducasse who has brought his food to the U.S. I doubt many people could name any 3 star chef dramatically over Ferran. In fact he has received a great deal of press in U.S. magazines within the last 3 years. Gourmet, F&W, Bon Appetite, Art Culinaire, and I would assume the NY Times although I haven't seen any such piece. All of this because he is doing food that nobody else is. He is huge in Japan and even Australia. I agree, the pace of modern cuisine in the states is painfully slow, or is it? The movement itself just started not so long ago in France and Spain. Think of the 5 most highly regarded chefs at the high end level in the states. They are all over 40 and have been developing their style or "brand" for quite some time. Along comes a more creative approach to food, chefs saying: hey it's ok to take some chances, its ok to develop new techniques. But the chefs here have already made their mold, developed their repertoire, implemented their systems. They are the ones in the public eye, on the TV Food Network, in the Grimes reviews, on the cover of Gourmet. They are the pinnacle of fine dinning here. The new generation or next wave of chefs are just coming onto the scene, and they will bring a more modern cuisine. I feel it will be dramatic. I see it in the cooks I deal with, the ones currently in culinary school, the ones "on the lines" in the kitchens of our best restaurants in this country. They will be the hope for a modern cuisine in the U.S. not the ones that are in the spotlight right now. New technique does not mean divorce of regionalism. The problem is regionalism itself. What is it in the States? To look at the current menu at Trio, The French Laundry, and Daniel, what ingredients display a sense of regionalism to each respective restaurant? TFL uses Hudson Valley foie gras not Sonoma, Lamb from Pennsylvannia, Great Lakes whitefish, Cobia from the Gulf of Mexico, French Black Truffles, yuzu from Japan, hearts of palm from Hawaii, huckleberries from Oregon, asparagus from Jersey, and so on. Trio is the same. Daniel (I think) is the same. Root vegetables dominate all of the menus. Today it seems chefs have the convienence of internet research, fed-ex shipping to get any ingredient they desire or prefer the next day. Trio certainly falls into this category, sourcing products from all over. Quality is priority. Trio is sensitive to local products and tries hard to support them, which in turn gives the food a sense of regionalism but not exclusivly Midwestern. California seems to have the advantage being they have all the resources at their disposal. Wine, ocean, farmland and most importantly the social awareness to provide the small purveyor -restaurant relationships. At least in northern California. Your point on the avant garde is a great one. It was a very thought out topic during the rebirth of Trio 1 1/2 years ago knowing the food would move in that direction. The response has been good to the food. Even despite the "comfort food" craze that followed 911. Publications as influential as the NY Times recently ran front page (food section) story on no more foie gras, give me a burger....or something like that. When society is bombarded with these messages they will follow. As the more open minded come into positions (chefs, writers) that allow them to shape the horizon of dinning, this country will see the change that is sweeping Europe. Trio feels that it displays sound examples of its cuisine in all four Midwestern seasons. Maybe ask yourself what ingredients are more exciting to eat and base your decision that way. Certainly after a long winter it is nice to see things like asparagus, morels, peas, taking the place of root vegetables! It's tough to let go of the truffles though. Thank you for the commentary, it helps us all grow.

Steve : I revised my dialog above. Thank you.

By far the toughest question yet, but at least it was broken into two parts which is very important. Braised Prime Beef Short Ribs rootbeer flavors gets my vote for the "most delicious" It's winter in the midwest, you have a lucious, rich, flavorful braise of fatty beef. That is tasty. What seperates it from other restaurants short rib dishes, I feel, is the concept of rootbeer flavors. When you anlylize old fashioned rootbeer you find it's componets very easily decontructed and remarkably well siuted to a dark, rich, meat. Burdock root, fennel bulb and seed, prunes, mollassas, star anise, sasafrass, vanilla, and black pepper. It produces a highly arromatic dish with layers of flavor. The small dishes that Trio produces tend to be my favorites. It is easier to be creative with smaller bites than with the more substantial courses. Tart apple-olive oil, dry shot, pizza, spice water, watermelon-smoked paprika ice, black truffle explosion are some that fall into most proud category, although their technique is not so complex. They are products of our environment, and awareness of it, that brought them to life. Techniques that Trio utilizes well, that produce complex results are dehydration, sous-vide cookery, gelatin work, sugar work, foams, to name a few. I feel strongly about the Osetra Caviar kola nut ice dish.

Absolutely. The element of surprize can be an incredible tool in a chef's kit, but you run the risk of failing, which makes you look quite silly. Surprize comes in many different forms. Not knowing which you are specifically asking about I will go through a few. At Trio nearly all the food has some surprize value due to the fact that you won't find a dish on the menu that you have seen elsewhere. There is surprize in unique combinations such as bittersweet chocolate and Nicoise olives, actually hidding an ingredient or a large consentration of an ingredient in a dish to be discovered by a diner, like a sliver of raw ginger in the "oysters and beer", as when a diner sees "pizza" on the menu only to be confronted with a stamp size piece of "paper", to see flavors that are familar presented in an unusual manner like the rootbeer of beef short ribs, to begin consuming a beverage and feel it drastically change temperature as they drink, the sudden release of liquid in the liquid black truffle explosion and so on...... All of these are examples of surprizes that I feel add drama, entertainment, creativity, and in somecases flavor enhancement to a meal. It is a strong technique in the highly creatives' seperation from their peers. A chef once wanted to make hot ice cream. It can't be done. Although the effect would be amazing. Less dramatic examples are used at Trio all the time. To freeze something that is normally hot or heat something that is normally frozen is easy, but what are you left with? Hot chocolate =chocolate sorbet, the difficulty comes in when the original and the manipulated are identical. This is easy .."Dry Martini" What do you visualize? It's in a Martini glass, it tastes like a martini, but you chew it. It is not liquid at all. But how does Trio make you drink something without the sensation of wetness? Is it possible? Not yet.

As food evolves and becomes more creative the need for a better understanding of foodstuffs will become necessary for cooks to manipulate ingredients further. Trio finds this approach to food very exciting, as it opens many new doors to not only the way we cook but the way the guest eats. This movement, in combination with the highly creative movement, will redefine high level dinning in the years to come. New techinques will be born and food will become more thought provoking and entertaining. The days of putting a piece of protein in a hot pan are almost over. Observent cooks will continue to incorporate tools and techniques from other professions into the cooking arena. Some examples include the isi foamer, liquid misters, paco jet, wine press, centerfuige, bag cookery(sous-vide), nitrous freezing the list goes on. It will continue to make dinning exciting, both for the cook and the guest.

Thomas assumes solo diners are there to dine. Alot of people frequent high end restaurants. Some are there because their dinning partner wanted to go, some because it is the "in place", some because it adds a level of prestige, and others because they like to dine. If you go alone chances are you are in to it. From a chef's perspective there is no one I would rather cook for. Not all vips get the same menu, depends on your vip-ness.

6. PART2 THE FRENCH LAUNDRY OFFERS 2 MENU OPTIONS. A FIVE COURSE WITH CHOICES IN EACH CATEGORY AND A 9 COURSE TASTING. A MENU OF GREATER LENGTH IS NOT OFFERED, BUT IS CONSUMED BY PEOPLE NIGHTLY IF THEY BECOME "VIP ED". THIS INCLUDES PEOPLE DINNING BY THEMSELVES, PEOPLE IN THE INDUSTRY, JOURNALIST, CELEBRITIES, FRIENDS OF THE RESTAURANT. HAVING BOTH COOKED AND CONSUMED MEALS OF GREAT LENGTH, AND ENJOYING THEM, THE IDEA WAS TO MAKE THAT EXPERIENCE AVAILABLE TO EVERY GUEST AT TRIO. THE TDF IS NOT FOR EVERYONE, IT TAKES AT LEAST 4 HOURS, IT ENDS UP BEING ALOT OF FOOD. TOO MUCH? I DON'T THINK SO, MOST FINISH IT WITHOUT ISSUE. AGAIN WE SAY 22 COURSES, SOME OF THOSE ARE LESS THAN 1 BITE. LIKE THE "PIZZA" FOR EXAMPLE, BASICALLY A 1/2" X 1/2" PIECE OF PAPER, OR THE CARAMEL POPCORN, A NICKLE SIZED LOSANGE. YOU DO NOT COME TO TRIO BECAUSE YOU ARE HUNGRY. RESERVATIONS ARE MADE WEEKS IN ADVANCE. THIS IS AN EXPERIENCE IN DINNING THAT GOES BEYOND FOOD AND HUNGER. IT IS ENTERTAINMENT, IF THE GUEST IS WILLING TO LET IT BE. THE TOUR DE FORCE TELLS A STORY, ITS ABOUT 22 PAGES LONG.

STEVE: PICK YOUR PONY. TRIO OFFERS 3 TASTING MENUS NIGHTLY. A 4 COURSE WHICH TURNS INTO A 7 COURSE AFTER THE AMUSE, CANAPE, AND MIGNARDISE. A 8 COURSE WHICH IS REALLY AM 11 AFTER THE FOREMENTIONED AND THE (CURRENTLY) 22 COURSE TOUR DE FORCE. THEY ARE DESIGNED TO PROVIDE DINNING EXPERIENCES FOR PEOPLE WILLING TO COMMIT TO DIFFERENT LEVELS OF TIME AND EXPOSURE.

I ENJOY OUR DIALOG. 5. GLOBAL INFLUENCES REFER TO THE WORLD. ALL CUISINES ARE EXPLORED AND TAKEN SERIOUSLY AT TRIO. IT MAKES US STRONGER AS COOKS AND AS A RESTAURANT. WHY MOLD OURSELVES TO THE FRENCH DIAGRAM, TO BECOME ONE HOMOGANIOUS CUISINE. WE TAKE CUES FROM SOUTH AMERICA, ASIA, EASTERN EUROPE, ALL PARTS OF THE US, AFRICA, THE TROPICS...EVERYWHERE. THE TECHNIQUES OF THE AREAS ARE EXPLORED AND EXECUTED. INTEGREDITY IS IMPORTANT AT TRIO, AND IT IS PAINSTAKINGLY FOLLOWED THROUGH IN THE FOOD. TRIO WANTS TO PRODUCE AN EXPERIENCE THAT TAKES DINERS TO EVERY GASTRONOMICLY TANGIBLE PLACE KNOWN. THE CEILING IS NONEXISTANT IN THIS KITCHEN, THE BLINDERS ARE REMOVED, BUT THE FOCUS IS INTENSE. THE ULTIMATE STARS GUIDE US. 6. TOUR DE FORCE MENU 1.19. 03 "CARAMEL POPCORN" OSETRA CAVIAR kola nut ice, frothed milk PUREE OF CELERIAC SOUP SHAVED BOTTARGA curled bread, arugala, red wine vinegar WATERMELON-SMOKY PAPRIKA ICE OYSTERS AND BEER LIGHTLY GRILLED FLORIDA COBIA flavors of the sea FENNEL BULB AND HEIRLOOM BEETS licorice, goat milk sorbet, grapefruit BLACK TRUFFLE EXPLOSION MAINE DIVER SCALLOP with ORANGE RIND VAPOR STEAMED WILD STEELHEAD black truffles, rutebega- mustard juice "PIZZA" POACHED LOIN OF VENISON four flavors grated PIG TAIL AND CRISPY CHEEK red wine braised cabbage, quince "DRY SHOT" BRAISED PRIME BEEF SHORT RIB root beer flavors POINT REYES BLUE CHEESE white chocolate, mint, dried banana pudding GINSENG FIZZ blood orange, grains of paradise PUSHED FOIE GRAS bosc pears, Sauternes, salt roasted pear sorbet ROASTED BUTTERCUP SQUASH FLAN bacon, curried pineapple TEA SMOKED CHOCOLATE crystallized nori, plum sorbet, pickled plums BLACK TRUFFLE AND BANANA MILKSHAKE COMMENTARY ON THE TDF TO FOLLOW..... GOOD NIGHT.

GOOD NIGHT.

THE TOUR DE FORCE MENU AVERAGES 4 HOURS. TIME BETWEEN COURSES SHOULD ONLY BE 5 MINUTES.

3. THE INTENTION OF THE ROSEMARY VAPOR IS TO FLAVOR THE LOBSTER DISH. AS MOST KNOW, OLFACTORY SENSE PLAYS A HUGE PART OF TASTE. ROSEMARY WHEN INFUSED TENDS TO BE BITTER DUE TO THE NATURAL RESIN PRESENT IN THE PLANT. HOWEVER, THE FLAVOR OF ROSEMARY WITH LOBSTER AND ROSEMARY WITH MUSHROOMS IS APPEALING. ROSEMARY IS NOT PALATEABLE IN A CHOPPED STATE. TO INTRODUCE ROSEMARY FLAVOR IN A PALATABLE, TEXTURALLY APPEALING WAY..VAPOR. 3.b THE VODKA MIST ADDS TWO ELEMENTS TO THE "BLOODY MARY" 1. A SLIGHT ALCOHOLIC "BURN" TO THE DISH WHEN IT CONSUMED, WHICH MAKES IT FAITHFUL TO THE BEVERAGE. 2. COMPLETION FROM CONCEPT TO EXECUTION. 4. QUITE SIMPLY "PUSHED FOIE GRAS" IS A KITCHEN TERM APPLIED TO THE PASSING OF CURED FOIE GRAS THROOUGH A FINE MESH SCREEN OR TAMMIS. CHEF DE PARTIES PHYSICALLY "PUSH" THE COLD LIVER THROUGH THE SCREEN. DUCK LIVER IS USED FROM THE LA BELLE FARM IN THE HUDSON VALLEY OF NEW YORK BECAUSE OF ITS CONSISTANT HIGH QUALITY. THE LIVER IS SHREDDED INTO STRANDS RESEMBLING SHREDDED WHEAT BREAKFAST CEREAL. THESE THIN STANDS OF FOIE MELT INSTANTING WHEN THEY COME IN CONTACT WITH ANYTHING ABOVE 92 F. WHAT THIS MEANS TEXTURALLY IS A SUDDEN AND SMOOTH MELT IN THE MOUTH, WITHOUT RESIDUAL MATTER.

1. I CAN POST THE MENU AT A LATER DATE. 2. FOCUSING ON FOODS STATE OF BEING: THROUGH THE SCRUTINY OF FOODSTUFFS IN THEIR NATURAL STATE, AS WELL AS ANY STATE THEY CAN BE MANIPULATED TO, ALLOWS THE CHEF A MORE INTIMATE KNOWLEDGE OF THE INGREDIENT ITSELF AND IT'S RELATIONS WITH OTHER FOODSTUFFS IN THE COMPOSITION OF A DISH. ICE TASTES DIFFERENTLY THAN WATER. ICE FEELS DIFFERENTLY THAN WATER. STEAM CARRIES ARROMA BETTER THAN ICE AND WATER. STEAM CARRIES NO PALATEABLE TASTE, ONLY OLFACTORY FLAVOR. SURFACE AREA EXPOSURE TO FLAVANOIDS IS INCREASED IN LIQUID STATE DUE TO COVERAGE, BUT DISSAPATES FASTER DUE TO DILUTION, AND CONSUMPTION. WHAT TASTES MORE LIKE CARROT? CARROT JUICE OR A CARROT? MANIPULATION OF STATES ALTERS THE MINDS PERCEPTION OF FLAVOR MEMORY.YOUR MIND PROCESSES TEXTURES AND ARROMAS WITH FLAVORS TO CREATE A FOOD MEMORY. IF ONE CHOSES A FLAVOR AND PRESENTS IT IN A DIFFERENT TEXTURE IT IS A NEW EXPERIENCE FOR YOUR MIND. A GREATER DEGREE OF FOCUS IS APPLIED TO THE TASK OF CONSUMING.FLAVORS ARE HEIGHTENED, MEMORIES ARE ETCHED, SMILES ARE PRODUCED. I ONLY HAVE LITTLE TIME........

IF ANYONE HAS QUESTIONS ABOUT TRIO'S FOOD ASK ME.