Jim D.
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Posts posted by Jim D.
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Very helpful information on the Powermate. Thanks for taking the trouble to provide photos. I will look into this product.
I currently use a Paasche (quite similar to a Badger). It's a siphon type, not gravity fed. When it works well, it is great, but sometimes I have use a heat gun after every few cavities.
Jim
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17 minutes ago, sarah72 said:
Bit confused here, did you mean less liquifiers than I'm currently using?
Yes, I did mean less, sorry about that.
19 minutes ago, sarah72 said:So far I've not been able to get a dark chocolate ganache to level off like that without adding so much liquid that it won't last more than 10-14 days.
Can you describe what happens to the ganache after 14 days? I assume it has not molded or spoiled in any way. Does it have a stale taste? Or is the texture compromised in some way?
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10 hours ago, keychris said:
This sounds like ... a really large gap. 1/3" is like 8mm. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying - I fill and cap aiming for as thin a base as possible - 1-2mm!
Of course, you are correct. I didn't stop and look at a ruler before I posted. I also aim for the thinnest possible base (Greweling calls for 2-3mm, between 1/16 and 1/8 inch).
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2 hours ago, YetiChocolates said:
I picked up a new HVLP air brush, and I just love the thing, makes airbrushing SO MUCH FUN!
Could you say more about this airbrush? Why is it better than the usual, and where can it be purchased? I find airbrushing more frustrating than fun, so if this device made it fun for you, I'm interested. Thanks for any help.
Your chocolates are beautiful. Are the swirly ones done with finger-painting or with the airbrush?
Jim
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Sarah,
The percentage Greweling recommends for a ganache intended to be piped is 2:1 (chocolate to liquefiers), considerably more liquid than you are currently using, so I am mystified as to why your ganache isn't quite liquid. Do your ganaches firm up or do they remain soft? I myself don't mind a soft center for a chocolate, but it's quite difficult (at least for me) to predict how firm a ganache is going to be once it crystallizes. Often the exact same recipe will turn out differently from time to time.
I gather from your previous posts that you are using invert sugar exclusively as your sweetener. As I am sure you know, it is sweeter-tasting than sucrose and will, to some degree, affect the final taste of the ganache if it's the only sweetener.
Your technique of overfilling the cavities and then scraping is not something I would try. If your chocolate was in perfect temper and the shells are ready to come out of the mold with no effort required, you may discover that the scraping drags the chocolate shell out of the mold when you don't want that. I find that the ganache needs to be 1/4 to 1/3 inch below the edge of the cavity to have a successful capping of the mold. This does make trimming the protruding ganache a tedious but essential process. I have been intending to ask on eGullet whether others have shortcuts for this procedure. A ganache like Greweling's cherry kirsch inevitably has bits of dried cherries sticking up too high.
About butter ganaches: I know what you mean about their sweetness, but it is possible to use less sweet flavorings. In the case of Greweling's orange butter ganache, adding a substantial amount of orange zest, for example, helps a lot.
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Your dilemma is familiar to all who make molded chocolates--texture of the ganache vs. shelf life. You already have the chocolate-to-liquid ratio at roughly 1:1, and if you increase the liquid above that, you risk having the finished ganache too liquid to set up properly. You are already piping the ganache at a relatively high temperature (Peter Greweling says 77F/25C, Notter gives a higher temperature). I pipe at around 80F/27C in case the temperature is actually higher than the thermometer reading since I don't want to risk melting the shell. As I am concerned about shelf life, I just accept the fact that some ganaches are going to be impossible to pipe perfectly. If the ganache levels off after a few taps on the counter, I consider it a good day, but I am prepared to trim the extruding parts with a small knife or tiny spoon (usually this is easier to do after the ganache has crystallized).
Have you tried butter ganaches? They have what I consider a wonderful texture and have a much longer shelf life. If you have a water activity meter, you can check the Aw reading for a ganache, or if you use Wybauw's recipes, he provides the reading. A reading above 0.85 is considered dangerous, but most ganaches are below that reading (or can be reformulated to be so).
All that said, I think your potential resellers are being unreasonable--6 weeks is too long. I would see if there are resellers in your area who are more knowledgeable about handmade chocolates with high-quality ingredients. Just recently, as a matter of fact, I have tasted handmade chocolates from two sources in my area and found them stale tasting (not spoiled or molded, but stale). If I were to sell my chocolates to a vendor I would have an agreement/contract with the shop that would try to prevent that situation since your reputation will kill you--if it's bad.
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19 minutes ago, Je33 said:
if you ever manage to get hold of the kalamansi lime it's worth a play with
I have kalamansi and like it a lot--it has no problem coming through the taste of the chocolate. Same for passion fruit and yuzu.
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Although I have some Boiron purées that are very good, I must say I found both the pear and the rhubarb much too weak to stand up even to white chocolate, never mind dark (and I boiled them to reduce them before using in ganaches for bonbons). The only way I have gotten even close to satisfactory flavor for either of those is to make my own from fresh fruit (I know, rhubarb is technically a vegetable). This is just my opinion, of course. I realize this is somewhat heretical, but when I first started purchasing frozen purées for use in chocolates, I was surprised (and disappointed) that all of them seemed less purée and more juice, so whenever I can (for example, in lemon, lime, orange, strawberry, raspberry), I juice the fresh or frozen fruit and so am able to include as much of the pulp as I want. It's my theory that in this way I am adding less water to the finished ganache and so (one hopes) extending the shelf life a bit.
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Deryn,
That looks very promising. Thanks for the link.
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Sure enough, once I started looking with the right terminology, I think I found something: http://www.webstaurantstore.com/3947/vinyl-table-covers.html. For about $7 each, I can't go too wrong. And the reviews are good. Thanks for all the help.
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Smithy,
The reviews of that tablecloth aren't very good, and the fact that the color comes off easily is a little troubling. But I think you may have put me on the right track for a more successful search. Thanks.
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I like the plastic tablecloth idea. I guess I assume that anything labeled "tablecloth" would be (should be) food-safe, but perhaps I am too ready to make that assumption. The problem is that it is difficult to judge from web descriptions or even from seeing the item in person what it is going to feel like and how substantial it is. Oilcloth would be perfect, but I have read in several places that it is not considered food-safe. I wonder what outdoor lobster shacks use.
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Thanks for the ideas so far. I can buy a small roll of freezer paper and see if that works. As for the cling wrap, if it is as difficult to work with as the stuff bought in a grocery store, I would not have the patience to get a relatively smooth cover on the counter. Maybe if there were something like it but without the cling quality, that would work. I'll look some more on webstaurant.com.
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No, I am not trying to save the little chocolate bits (what I plan to save goes on parchment sheets). I could just make the chocolates on the granite, but cleaning it is a pain (for one thing, it's dark granite and seeing all the chocolate is quite difficult). An inexpensive sheet of plastic that could be thrown away at the end of a whole batch (not every day) would make cleanup much easier.
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I make chocolates at home, mostly on a large granite countertop. To make cleanup easier (the process leaves tiny shards of chocolate everywhere), I am looking for a large (minimum 6 feet x 4 feet) food-safe plastic sheet to cover the work area. The perfect texture would be that of oilcloth or a tarp. I bought a polyester tablecloth to try, but the fabric was so much like cloth that scraping off the tiny bits of chocolate during the process was practically impossible. I have looked online with no success. Any ideas would be much appreciated.
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Have you read through the threads on ganache? There is lots of discussion of white chocolate and what can be done about its issues. Another thread was started just a few days ago on getting flavor into ganaches. In that thread I mentioned substituting cocoa butter for some of the white chocolate (to mute the taste of the latter). I don't know which books you have, but Ewald Notter's Art of the Chocolatier has lots of good (and successful) recipes using white chocolate. I have used his recipes (and Peter Greweling's) for lemon, lime, yuzu, passion fruit, strawberry, raspberry, mint, cherry, eggnog, cranberry, vanilla, etc. A basic white chocolate ganache is my default method for making nearly all fruit ganaches (and I used the basic recipe for making an "interesting" lavender ganache recently). You will also find many threads on this forum discussing failed efforts at more subtle flavors (pear, rhubarb, peach, etc.).
My favorite white chocolate is Valrhona's Opalys. It's sometimes difficult to work with and it's expensive, but--in my opinion--it has the best taste (I believe it was Pastrygirl on this forum who referred to its taste as "lovely" not long ago).
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A very interesting article; it appears there is some back-story to this Notter move ("the three of us have had some big let down or disappointment in the past in our business so we are all thankful for being with people who are trustworthy, work with integrity and are kind"). Pastrygirl, what about approaching the three partners to see if there is room for a fourth? From what I have seen of your work, you are certainly accomplished enough to join them.
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14 hours ago, pastrygirl said:
I used to do a rhubarb chiboust for which i juiced fresh rhubarb then reduced it with a little hibiscus for added color intensity and tartness. That might help.
I assume you are speaking of the chiboust used in pastry. But you probably weren't using it as a filling for chocolates (because of the eggs used), were you?
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Kerry,
Thanks for the prompt reply. The recipe looks interesting, and I will definitely give it a try. I should hurry before pears are totally out of season (I bought pear purée once, and it was very disappointing).
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I checked some of my recipes (some from Ewald Notter), and the usual amount of cocoa butter (used as a substitution for white chocolate) is about 7-8% (of the total amount of white choc. and cocoa butter used in the recipe). Too much, and the ganache becomes too "short"--it will not have that unctuous texture we look for in a ganache.
I agree with the problem fruits you listed except for apple. An apple-flavored caramel is delicious and can taste amazingly of apple. The idea of using apple cider jelly (which is simply apple cider boiled down, with no additives) comes from Tikidoc on this forum. I can send you my recipe if you want (assuming you can find cider jelly).
I agree with Kerry about pear. It is a great disappointment. I would be interested in knowing how she combines it with almond flavor. The last time I made an all-out push to achieve a pear ganache, I made my own pear purée and boiled it down as much as possible. I must confess I added pear "essence," a product from France is that is supposedly made from distilling pears in some sort of steam process (cake goddess Rose Levy Beranbaum recommends the apricot version of the same product). It was better, but still the pear taste was weak. I paired it, however, with a pear pate de fruit, which had a very strong pear taste. I had planned to try again with a filling of half this pear jelly and half vanilla ganache. But I like Kerry's almond idea even more--if she will reveal how she gets the almond taste!
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I too have struggled with getting rhubarb flavor in a ganache. The last time I cooked fresh rhubarb as you did and reduced it as much as I could without burning it. I mixed it with a very small amount of strawberry purée. Many people told me they liked it, but, to be frank, I think they were tasting mostly strawberry. I am going to try once more with some rhubarb from the local farmers' market this spring. Someone on this forum suggested roasting it, but I have not tried that yet. Reluctantly I have come to the conclusion that some fruits just are too subtle to taste in a ganache. Pear is another one that is not sufficiently strong, at least for my taste. One other idea: You can substitute cocoa butter for some of the white chocolate and reduce the chocolate taste a bit. I use that technique in many fruit ganaches.
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I once shared your microwave phobia, but I think you need to get off that high horse if you are to be efficient. I have now reduced by half (or more) the time it takes me to temper chocolate because I melt a large amount, getting it near its recommended maximum temperature, then pouring it into a tempering machine (same would apply to a Mol d'Art). The waiting time at that point is just to reach the tempering point.
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Thanks for that good idea. I use powdered caramel in a "creme brulee" piece I make--actually I think I may have gotten the idea from you. I assumed the powder would liquefy eventually in the liquid of the ganache. In the creme brulee, I put the powder in the bottom (eventually the top) of the mold, then pipe in a little white chocolate to cover it before the ganache is added. If the powder does not in fact liquefy, I could save that step.
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I too thought that waiting to add the butter is the usual way of making a caramel (although I have used recipes that don't mention waiting and they work fine). Ewald Notter has a recipe with chocolate and caramel combined, and he says to wait to add the butter until the caramel-chocolate mixture is 32.2C/90F. If I were to try the recipe again, I would wait and see if that made a difference. It may be significant that in the mousse recipe the amount of butter is approximately 16% of the entire ganache, whereas in Notter's recipe, it is only 5%. This would support your idea of treating the mixture like a butter ganache--though butter ganaches usually have a lot more butter than 16%.
Ganache: Tips, Techniques & Troubleshooting
in Pastry & Baking
Posted
I think this is just the way things are. I have never had a ganache show any mold, but I know that it can happen. The drying out is what I would expect after 4 weeks. As I said before, I think your potential vendors' requirement of 6 weeks is unrealistic.