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Everything posted by Jim D.
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If you don't mind telling, what do you add to the coconut and walnuts to hold them together? Perhaps the same chocolate used for the shell, which appears to be a caramelized white or something similar?
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That looks delicious. I omitted the cardamom (I love the spice but don't think Americans expect it in carrot cake). I have tried walnuts and pecans, but ended up preferring pecans. I too include a cream cheese "frosting" layer, with a lemon flavor. For the cookie layer I tried the carrot layer but didn't get an acceptable carrot taste, so have switched to one based on ground speculoos cookies. I do have difficulty incorporating the browned butter; even my big Robot Coupe immersion blender takes a long time to emulsify the mixture; as a result, I have reduced the quantity of butter a little. I'm not sure what the problem is (aside from the obvious too much fat vs. liquid).
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I get very positive reactions to the carrot caramel from @Rajala. I too have added a couple of tastes to bring it closer to what I think of as the typical American carrot cake (golden raisins, toasted pecans). Making the caramel takes a while, so I try to make as large a batch as I can and keep it for future carrot cake bonbons.
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Molded and Filled Chocolates: Troubleshooting and Techniques
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
On another forum someone posted that she had bought a Dubai bar (the filling with pistachio paste, tahini, kataifi) from Fix Dessert Chocolatier, the company in Dubai that originated the bar. She said that the Fix bar does not contain any chocolate, with the result that the pistachio taste is more assertive. And that is how she now makes her Dubai bars. I hadn't thought of that option, but it is intriguing. Since some pistachio pastes tend to be more fluid than others, my concern is that the filling would make a mess when eaten. In my version I use some plain pistachio paste and some pistachio praline paste (with caramel). Is there any reason why there must be chocolate in this filling? A concern might be fat migration, but in a version with chocolate, there is plenty of other fat besides the cocoa butter found in the chocolate. Some plain cocoa butter might make it hold together better, as would extra kataifi. I also use feuilletine in mine (very unorthodox, but it adds more crunch and a caramel taste), which also thickens the filling. -
If I recall correctly, you are very careful about the types of fillings you tend to use, namely, those with long shelf lives (caramel, gianduja). If the fillings in the bonbons in question are of that type and if the outsides show no signs of melting or softening, I would probably sell them as usual. If there were ganaches, I would check them more carefully for deterioration, but if it's been only one day, they should be OK. We all know (or suspect) how customers abuse our storage instructions. I have started using bold type for my storage info at the top of my guide included in the box and have made the language stronger as well. As for the shops that store them at room temp, I don't do that. I had a restaurant approach me today about purchasing some 4-piece favor boxes to give to guests at the end of the meal, and I led my reply with refrigeration availability. In saying that, I hope I don't sound holier than thou, but I have had a mold episode and have never gotten over that.
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Spraying Chocolate: Equipment, Materials, and Techniques
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
I like Chef Rubber's Mediterranean blue. I too have noticed varying viscosity with CR's colors. Yesterday I opened a new bottle of Gold, and it was not particularly viscous at all. Some previous bottles have required that I add some plain CB to get everything flowing. I have never found a method for getting full coverage without multiple passes when using an airbrush, and yes, the top edges require special attention. Cavities deeper than the CW2295 need attention to the bottom (what will become the top of the bonbon). I have watched Luis Amado use his Badger airbrush with quick bursts of spray. The coverage looks very spotty, but there is no question that his creations are beautiful--and appear to have full coverage. Maybe it's time for a trip to Michigan to watch him in person! -
Spraying Chocolate: Equipment, Materials, and Techniques
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
@Saltychoc, I have had exactly the same problem. I even sent my Grex to the company for a thorough cleaning. When it came back, it was fine for a while, but the clogging up occurred again. I basically gave up on the airbrush and mostly use my Fuji now (I know that doesn't help you--unless you want me to leave the Fuji to you in my will). For my Easter batch I used the Grex for a gradient (the Fuji doesn't do that very well--at least for me), and I used it to spray cavities that had tape in them to make a stripe (the Fuji's power can blow the tape out of alignment). In both cases the Grex performed very well, BUT when I emptied out the cocoa butter I had been using for the stripe, there was a substantial amount solidifying in the bottom of the cup. That should not have been happening because I reheat the gun between molds (yes, always--I can't stand a clogged-up airbrush). I think your room temperature may be an issue. Yesterday we had a quite cool day here in the Commonwealth of Virginia, and the temp of the basement where I spray had fallen to the upper 60s F. I know that a lower temp helps the CB in the molds crystallize, but it also crystallizes in the cup (and in the parts of the CB path you can't see). My experience was very good with Grex tech support, but it helps to get someone who knows about spraying CB. -
Thanks for checking. He certainly fixed my EZ. By the way, on Instagram I saw an interview with you by the owner of Sosase, the colored cocoa butter that is currently making a splash in the bonbon world.
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I purchased a 6-kg Mol d'Art melter in Feb. 2021. In the past couple of weeks it has not been operating satisfactorily. The first time I set it at the top heat setting, but the indicator light did not turn on. I "jiggled" the plug, finally the light came on, and the chocolate eventually reached the set temp. Another time it had again been set at the highest temp, and after two days (during which I checked to see that it was on) it had reached only about 32C. From time to time the indicator light blinks. I used various outlets, so it's not a kitchen electricity issue. I contacted the vendor to see if they do repairs but meanwhile thought I would ask whether other eG members have had similar issues. The questions: If the vendor does repairs, is the cost likely to be more than a new melter? For obvious reasons one cannot blindly trust a seller with this question. And is it likely a local electrician might be able to solve the problem? I don't know how proprietary the parts of the Mol d'Art are. Or the inevitable question these days: Is it better just to go ahead and purchase a new melter? Thanks for any help.
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Planning: eGullet Chocolate and Confectionery Workshop 2025
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
If you have a day when you have time to experiment, make a familiar ganache and test it. Then take a small amount of the ganache, add some water to it, and take a measurement from that. You should see a dramatic difference. The Pawkit comes with some samples for calibration (various concentrations of a saline solution). -
@Saltychoc, I don't know where you are located. If you are in the U.S., you can find the nearest AUI, and they will ship Felchlin (and everything else they carry) free if you buy a minimum--and these days reaching that minimum doesn't take much effort. A few years back, Felchlin was carried by many outlets (Chocosphere being one), but then they decided to go with AUI exclusively. After a while, they opened up to a few more dealers, such as Chef Rubber and World Wide Chocolate. The price for a 6kg box of Maracaibo Clasificado dark, however, is over $100 more at World Wide Chocolate than at AUI. If you set up an account with AUI, they (at least this is the case with my rep) will ship you samples of Felchlin couvertures.
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Your Daily Sweets: What Are You Making and Baking? (2017 – )
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
Great video. Those containers of weights look fairly heavy. My guess about adding the tray at the beginning would be that the pastry wouldn't have as much chance to brown. I've never made inverted puff pastry. How does it compare to regular? -
Your Daily Sweets: What Are You Making and Baking? (2017 – )
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
What a good idea. I've always thought that gap between filling and pastry top was a mistake in concept (the galette looks glorious until one cuts it). -
I'm not an expert, but I don't know of any reason it needs to be firm when you are going to pipe it. As I have posted, I use Pomona's pectin and am very pleased with its relatively short cooking time. I also add pulverized dried fruit (if one exists) to my PdFs, and that reduces their Aw dramatically: apple is 0.53, apricot is 0.65, cherry is 0.59, pear is 0.67. I also add a pinch of sorbic acid, which, since these mixtures are on the acidic side, extends shelf life (sorbic works only when the item has a pH less than 7). I am particularly nervous since I had a PdF develop mold once upon a time.
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The Pawkit that I have does not give an instantaneous measurement. It determines the amount of time needed (and this varies with samples). It can take anywhere between approximately 5 and 15 minutes.
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If it's helpful, I did a similar experiment (see post of August 4, 2021, in this thread). It showed that the Aw of a sample goes down as the sample sits--but only if you measure the top of the sample, not if you stir it between measurements. In the latter case, the Aw remains unchanged.
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I hadn't looked at Chef Rubber's selection of Felchlin for a while and was surprised at how little they now carry. I wonder what happened. @MECO, if you can get some Felchlin, I highly recommend it. The Maracaibo Criolait milk is good, as is the Bolivian milk. And for caramel white, I now use Bionda. If you set up an account with the nearest AUI and can use enough chocolate amounting to their minimum charge (which these days is not difficult to do), they do have the full Felchlin selection.
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@Rajala, I had forgotten this thread until today I was thinking more about your more recent recipe, the one for a custard ganache you use as part of your "apple pie." I have made this ganache, and it is delicious--to my mind, there is nothing like the wonderful taste of an egg custard. For those who aren't familiar with the ganache, it is made by heating cream with vanilla, various sugars, and egg yolk powder, then emulsifying that mixture with white chocolate. I have used it in my version of crème brûlée and in my "apple crisp" and even in an attempt to replicate the taste of snickerdoodle cookies If I recall correctly, you had quite a few reactions to the use of uncooked eggs in your crème brûlée. The dried eggs in the newer recipe seem safer to me, but I'm not sure why and am beginning to have doubts about food safety. But is this just a remnant of the fear instilled in people about salmonella and other pathogens? The pasteurization of dried egg yolks should take care of that issue, but still.... The USDA states that reconstituted dried eggs "should be used immediately or refrigerated and used that day." I posted my concerns on the Facebook Chocolatier forum, and a member responded: "Same thing is said about dairy. However once locked in a ganache, things change." I have asked the person to say more about what "locked in a ganache" means. I measured the Aw of your recipe (as made by me) at 0.70, which is quite respectable for a filling (Melissa Coppel estimates the shelf life at 12-20 weeks, Jean-Pierre Wybauw says 3-9 months!) . And no less than authority than Peter Greweling uses egg whites in marshmallow and nougat. I guess it all comes down to the fact that we cannot control what our customers do with our bonbons once they get them home--all shelf-life bets are off!
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Molded and Filled Chocolates: Troubleshooting and Techniques
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
No, it's 1728 (the 6024 is 11g). I got it through Bakedeco. There is no other Cabrellon dealer in the U.S. that I could find. Chocolat Chocolat in Canada carries the brand, but would not do a special order until they had a large enough Cabrellon order, and I was not willing to wait. Bakedeco was somewhat the same, but I paid extra to have the molds shipped in time for the holiday season, and they were willing to do a rush. It's possible to order directly from Cabrellon, but when I started the process, they wanted me to provide a number for my shipping account. I don't have such an account and was not willing to get involved with customs and all that red tape. I know you said you weren't interested in buying different dome molds, but thought I would share my drama in getting these. They are very much the shape of Kalle Jungstedt's "signature mold," but his holds only 11g. I bought one to try it out, and I don't know how he gets three layers into one of those molds--I like my customers to get a distinctive taste of each layer if I am going to the trouble of making all those fillings. -
Spraying Chocolate: Equipment, Materials, and Techniques
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
I didn't realize that was where you regulated it. I'll have to give that a try. -
Molded and Filled Chocolates: Troubleshooting and Techniques
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
@GRiker Ah, the dreaded CW1157. It's one of my most-used molds, primarily because it's tall enough to hold 3 different layers of filling, but it can be a pain to work with (which is why I found another 17g mold that is not so tall--see photos comparing them below). I had those cracks multiple times until I tried making the shell walls thicker. Unfortunately your shell walls look thick enough, so I don't know that my procedures will help you troubleshoot. Working with the 1157 mold has lengthened the time it takes me to make shells because I have to wait longer for the chocolate to crystallize--and, of course, the couverture is always changing, so the process varies as production moves along. But after I wait for the chocolate in the filled mold to crystallize quite a bit, I dump out the chocolate, then tilt and rotate the mold to get more chocolate at the point where your cracks appear--that is, near what will be the base of the finished bonbon. Gravity is the enemy in this case, since the chocolate will flow downward even after it appears to be crystallized. And, alas, simply turning the mold upside down does not result in chocolate flowing to the sides and thickening them but in flowing straight down. All this sounds ridiculously complicated and time-consuming--and it is--but, after all, we are in the business of forcing chocolate to do things it was never meant to do. I can certainly see why most chocolatiers use smaller, less tall molds. And the new 17g Cabrellon mold I use often is not perfect but does have fewer issues with cracking sides. There is a thread somewhere on eG that discusses the "vacuum" problem with dome molds in general; I think it was @Kerry Beal who pointed out that a sort of suction happens with the bottom and the more or less straight walls of some domes. The Cabrellon dome has sloped sides. As for unmolding stubborn bonbons, I leave them in the refrigerator longer (even several hours), and if some bonbons stick, I put the mold in the freezer for a short time. I have never found any loss of shine (contrary to what people say), and eventually almost all chocolates come out--those that don't have a major issue, and when I force the bonbon out, I usually see a shell that is too thin and thus has not contracted sufficiently. By the way, your fridge temp is 50-55F? The FDA recommends 40F for a max. You could try lowering it, at least during chocolate production. Photo of Cabrellon flattened dome on left, Chocolate World tall dome on right: -
Spraying Chocolate: Equipment, Materials, and Techniques
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
I have a California Air Tools 4620 compressor with an air capacity of 4.6 gallons that I use with my Grex Tritium; 4.6 gal. is sufficient for the Grex. I also bought a very inexpensive spray gun, which I no longer use. It operated with the same compressor, but not well; the compressor was running nearly constantly to keep up with the air requirements of the spray gun, and experts say that it is not good for a compressor's longevity to run that much. Many chocolatiers use spray guns (not the Fuji) with great success. I rarely use the Grex now except when I want to do a gradient. For Valentine's this year I did a red/pink gradient on a heart mold (photo below), and, for the red areas, the Grex operated perfectly (I had to use the heat gun only occasionally). I got out the Fuji to finish off with the pink because I used it to cover the entire cavity. In the past, however, the Grex has driven me crazy with almost-constant clogging up. In addition, I have never managed to get the Grex to do a decent splatter (I must add the caveat that @pastrygirl has had great success with her Grex and splatter, although Grex tech support says that their airbrush doesn't do splatter). And now, those famous words: "If I had it to do over..." Especially if I were using the Grex frequently, I would purchase a compressor with a larger air capacity (there are posts in this thread about other California Air Tools models that people recommend). And, with a larger compressor, I would probably do more experimenting with a non-Fuji spray gun, such as a SATA or Iwata or Grex. But since I became more familiar with the Fuji, I use it almost exclusively for spraying molds. Yes, it uses more cocoa butter (@Chocolot found a way to save the overspray), and yes, it's a larger and heavier piece of equipment, but it is really fast and requires much less use of a heat gun. I bought the metal cup that most chocolatiers use, but I see that Kalle Jungstedt and some others use the very large plastic cup. And, last point, the Fuji does a very nice splatter just by adjusting the air supply. -
Spraying Chocolate: Equipment, Materials, and Techniques
Jim D. replied to a topic in Pastry & Baking
The Fuji works only with the turbine that is part of the package, whereas the Grex (like all airbrushes) requires a compressor. -
Thanks for the information. For my cheesecake bonbon, I use a recipe that calls not only for cream cheese but also sour cream, which gives a little of the buttermilk idea. Another technique, which I used for a yogurt ganache that didn't have enough yogurt flavor, is to add a little distilled white vinegar.