Craig Camp

>2002 Palazzo Bandino, Chianti Colli Senesi ($10) A robust sangiovese offering far more flavor and varietal intensity than the price would suggest. Not a squeaky clean modern industrial wine, but a wine that offers real character at a bargain price. A Jens Schmidt Selection -Imported by Montecastelli Selections. >2000 Saladini Pilastri Rosso Piceno ($10) Offering tremendous structure and style for a wine at this price range, this wine clearly sings of its Mediterranean heritage. This is no simple, fruity industrial wine, but a bottle that proclaims its Italian birth by its fresh acidity and racy bitter cherry flavors. An excellent choice for buying by the case for parties and your house red and any restaurant should consider this wine for their wine-by-the-glass program. The perfect foil for robust Italian-American dishes. A Leonardo LoCasio Selection, Imported by Winebow. >2002 Salandra, Nero d'Avola, Sicilia IGT ($10) This full flavored red is selected by Christopher Cannan whose refined and experienced palate shows in in this stylish wine. Salandra offers none of the overripe or oxidized flavors that mar so many inexpensive Sicilian wines. This is a fruit packed wine that still has good structure and a lot of complexity for a wine at this price. Salandra is a "buy-by-the-case" house red that you won't get tired of drinking. A Christopher Cannan Selection, Imported by Europvin. >2001 Rossetti Chianti, Tusco ($10) There should be a lot of red faces in Chianti after they taste this wine. How do Tino and Linda Rossetti do it? Vintage after vintage this winery produces a range of tremendous values. Their 2001 Tusco Chianti offers more substance than many wines with more famous names and much higher prices. Whenever you spot this wine on a restaurant's wine-by-the-glass list you know that the buyer is doing their homework and is interested in delivering good wine at fair prices to their clients. The 2001 Tosco is a brilliant ruby and is just translucent. The nose is full of ripe plums and bitter cherries with a nice earthy touch to add complexity. It is firm and lively on the palate with lovely bittersweet cherry fruit and a clean, fruity finish with just a light touch of tannin at the end. Invest in cases of this charming Chianti to enjoy with all sorts of grilled meats. A Jens Schmidt Selection - Imported by Montecastelli Selections. >2001 Leone di Castris, Salice Salentino, Maiana ($10) Bright ruby, just translucent. The nose is full of forward, earthy fruit with a touch of warm Mediterranean sun. On the palate the wine is multifaceted showing bright fresh cherry fruit with a touch of dried mushrooms and a bitter minty note. The finish is balanced with medium tannins well carried by the ripe fruit. Ready to drink now. Imported by AV Imports. >2002 Borgo Magredo, Pinot Grigio ($10) A fresh, clean fruity pinot grigio that makes an excellent apertif or compliment to fresh seafood pasta dishes. A Mario Belardino Selection-Imported by Bedford International. >2002 Bollini Chardonnay Trentino, Barricato 40 ($10) A well balanced chardonnay that clearly shows varietal character highlighted by just a touch of oak. If you like Macon Villages and Pouilly Fuisse you will like this wine, which is obviously modeled after its French cousins. Far more balanced and refined than California and Australian efforts at this price range. A Neil Empson Selection, Imported by Kobrand >2003 San Marco Frascati Superiore ($10) A surprisingly robust Frascati that shows what is best about modern winemaking and how many types of wine can be dramatically improved by technology. San Marco produces this wine from a blend of trebbiano Toscano, malvasia di Candia, malvasia del Lazio and Bonvino. It is a refreshing white wine that is packed with fruit with highlights of ripe peaches in the aromas and on the palate. Imported by Palm Bay Imports. >2001 Librandi Cirò Rosso Classico ($10)Bright scarlet/garnet. Spiced ripe wild strawberries and tart plums - the slightest hint of rhubarb. Explosively fruity. Bitter sweet tart plums with wild cherries and raspberries finishing with a cranberry touch. Long clean with zesty acidity. Really fun and up-front with both bright fruit and the warm, ripe flavors of southern Italy. Great value. A Leonardo LoCascio Selection-Imported by Winebow >2001 Monte Antico ($10) Bright, dark ruby. Ripe, smoky plum aromas with just a touch of sweet oak and just enough earthiness to make it interesting. Excellent structure on the palate with a refreshing wild bitter cherry fruit balanced by just enough ‘modern’ smoothness. There is a decided Sangiovese varietal character with enough tannin to keep the wine for several years. The finish is long and crisp with the bitter cherry flavor that cleans the palate so well. You can’t beat Monte Antico for an everyday wine or party wine that will satisfy almost everyone’s palate. This is a wine to buy by the case. A Neil Empson Selection, Imported by Empson USA

Winemakers play with the process all over Italy, usually to make sweet wines, but few do it as a regular practice when it comes to dry table wines. Amarone, Valpolicella Ripasso and Sfurzat are the most famed wines of this type that are also DOC.

This is correct Boris.

Jeez, if you write a note like that about Fevre, what the heck will you write about a Domaine Pinson!

Realising US$4,239,317 (including the 17. 5% premium), this commercial auction was the largest in California history, Zachys said.

A new Franco-Russian project called Chateau Le Grand Vostock is about to launch its wines on the Russian market.

The quantity of licensed wineries in the US has zoomed 105% since 1995, federal figures show.

The answer is still no.

Well that's a big question. For Barolo producers with a traditional style I recommend: Marcarini, Poderi Colla, Ca'Rome, Cavallotto, Paolo Conterno, Giacomo Conterno, Aldo Conterno, G. Rinaldi, Bertolo Mascarello, G. Mascarello, Brovia to name a few off the top of my head. You should note that just because the Barolo is traditional does not mean the barbera is as often traditional producers will make very modern barbera.

Yes they are the importer and I am sure they are well distributed in your area. Here is their website: http://www.winesfrombedford.com/

VinoCibo.com Web Selection 10/8/04 Dessilani, Novara It was 1985 and we were still buying 1978 Gattinara Riserva from Dessilani. We started buying it two years before and every shipment was different in character. It just kept getting better. In those days the wines waited in barrels for shipment and so every order we received had been aged longer in barrel. These were still wines made by the legendary Luigi Dessilani who almost made his 100th birthday still working in the vineyards every day and attributed his long life to a liter of his own red wine a day. I was lucky enough to visit Luigi at the winery in 1984, the year before his death, and I must say his strategy seemed to be working very well. This was the same time that his son-in-law, Enzo Lucca, was starting to take over the winemaking. In the two decades that followed, Lucca has slowly introduced modern winemaking to the Dessilani wines, but they still have the edge that made that 78 Riserva so delicious. While the treatment in the cellar has changed, what is even more important at Dessilani are the changes Lucca has introduced in the vineyard by decreasing the use of less noble varieties and increasing percentages of nebbiolo, while at the same time decreasing yields and increasing vine density. The results are modern wines with brilliant fruit and color that are still clearly varietal and tremendous values. Dessilani produces the full range of Novara hills wines and each is worth seeking out for their distinct personality and clean nebbiolo character. Warm vintages like 1997 and 2000 that cause problems in the Langhe are welcome in the cooler Novara region and give wines with more depth, but in general great vintages in Langhe are great vintages here too. However, the blasting heat and drought of 2003 was even to great for Novara. The relative lack of fame of the top two wines of this zone, Ghemme and Gattinara, both DOCG, means that you can often find older vintages in the market at bargain prices so keep an eye out of 1996's and 1997's. Nebbiolo does not produce wines here with the same power as Barolo and Barbaresco, but they have an more delicate balance with a very appealing high-strung character from the crisp acidity. Their own personality stands out on its own and they should not be considered inexpensive replacements for Langhe nebbiolo, but interesting wines in their own right. For their relative delicacy they are surprisingly long-lived because of the fine backbone of acidity and tannin, but at the same time drink earlier than Barolo or Barbaresco and better yet, cost less. Recommended current Dessilani releases: The Dessilani winery is the heart of the small town of Fara and it is from two single-vineyards in this DOC that two of their most interesting wines come from. The DOC Fara releases: 1999 Dessilani Fara, Caramino ($35) Bright light ruby with garnet highlights, quite translucent. Ripe bitter cherry fruit aromas blend with earthy touches of tobacco and black licorice. Lean and lively on the palate with bright ripe plum flavors that dance across the palate highlighted by touches of fresh mint, tar and black truffle. The finish is angular and firm with tight tannins and acids mixing with ripe fruit and spices. Needs 2 or 3 years to open, but a lovely nebbiolo with a distinctive liveliness and balance. (Rating A, Excellent) 2000 Dessilani Fara, Caramino ($35) Bright rich ruby, with touches of garnet. Quite translucent. Round and ripe on the nose yet lively and minty with a tarry punch. Firmly structured with firm potent flavors. Classic, dense nebbiolo layered with ripe cherry, caramelized oranges, thyme and black licorice. The finish is a long mixture of ripe cherries and bitter tar with a firm tannic punch. Needs 3 to 5 years to develop.(Rating A+, outstanding.) 1999 Dessilani Fara, Lochera ($35) Bright ruby with garnet highlights, quite translucent. Riper and more forward than the Caramino. Warm, round sweet cherry nose with touches of black licorice a firm mineral touch Soft ripe raspberry fruit mixes with a warm earthy roundness on the palate. The tannins rise in the finish, but are still relatively round and forward, but firm enough to balance the ripe fruit flavors. Not a soft wine by any means, but very forward compared to the more structured Caramino. (Rating A-, excellent) 2000 Dessilani Fara, Lochera ($35) Brilliant light ruby with touches of garnet. Pronounced round, ripe forward nose full of spices, raspberries and black licorice. Lush and round on the palate with sweet fruit held together by a good touch of tar and firm tannins. Long big sweet cherry finish with a decided bitter tinge of tar and licorice. (Rating A-, excellent) Other current Dessilani releases: 1999 Dessilani Gattinara ($50) Brilliant ruby with garnet highlights. Just translucent. Expansive nose full of ripe cherries and dried roses with bitter tar and caramelized oranges with hints of warm spices. Firm and tight on the palate, but already showing great complexity. The finish is very long, starting out lean and tannic then expanding into round ripe plum fruit with a clean black licorice ending. Better balanced and more complex than the riper 1997. A very fine effort.(Rating A+, outstanding) 1997 Dessilani Gattinara ($50) Brilliant rich ruby with garnet highlights. Barely translucent. Rich, ripe nose full of violets and ripe black cherries with touches of tar and truffles. A round, mouth filling nebbiolo with a tannic punch under all that richness. Lush ripe cassis flavors blend with touches of cranberry and black licorice and build into a lush finish with a warm ripeness blending with firm tannins and clean bitter tar highlights. (Rating A, Excellent) 1999 Dessilani Ghemme ($45) Bright light ruby with garnet highlights, quite translucent. Very complex, lean and elegant nose with firm mineral and tar aromas over clean tart black cherry and touches of black truffle. Truly clean, classic nebbiolo with a firm, lean, but very complex finish. Needs at least 4 or 5 years to open. (Rating A-, Excellent) 2000 Dessilani Nebbiolo Langhe ($16) Bright light ruby with garnet throughout. Quite translucent. Firm spicy nose of burnt oranges and tar with crisp, plumy fruit. Clean and lean with bright nebbiolo tannins and acids and firm tart cherry fruit. The finish is fresh and zesty with a light tannic punch. a very nice everyday wine. (Rating B, very good) 2003 Dessilani Collefino Bianco ($12) Bright light gold. Clean hazelnut aromas with touches of fresh apple. Bright and clean on the palate with simple but clean touches of ripe peaches. A very pleasant aperitif. Made from the erbaluce grape. (Rating B, very good) 2000 Dessilani Laio (last harvest erbaluce) Dark gold with hints of brown. Light Oloroso Sherry notes on the nose mixed with ripe apricots and smoky hazelnuts. Round and ripe and very sweet the palate with notes of honey, hazelnuts, ripe peaches and petrol. Very unique wine like a cross between sherry and Sauternes. (Rating A-, excellent) A Mario Belardino Selection, Imported by Bedford International

No, and you can't make me.

This is the word here. The first ones are just showing up. I had some at Trattoria della Posta last week (Euro 15 a portion) that were just fair. Reports from Alba say better than last year, but not a great year. ...it looks to be a pretty good to excellent year for wine, so that does not fare well for white truffles.

First the UK Women's Institute went naked, then the New York fire department and British prison officers, and now the winemakers of the Côtes de Bourg are releasing a nude calendar.

he Champagne harvest this year is set to be the biggest in history as the French government gives the green light to increasing the maximum yield.

Sonoma patriarch Pete Seghesio has died aged 85 after a long illness.

Congratulations Mary! Finally someone to defend poor California from all of us European wine snobs.

I could not agree more. Their pinot noir shows true varietal character while being distinctly Tuscan at the same time. I too applaud them for going for their own style instead. ...and if you like the Pancrazi be sure to try the Poderi Colla from Piemonte.

click here for the 2001 Marchesi Pancrazi Pinot Nero and other new Pancrazi releases.

Many thanks for all the nice comments. I most certainly will still be visiting often.

18 years - then I went to college at that was it... 25 Rosso di Montepulciano corks to pull this morning. I am trying to make up for Brad's quota.

Perhaps gummys is too strong. I mean only in relation their pasta produced in Italy the texture seems different - softer. They say where they made the pasta on the package. Actually the only Barilla pasta I use regularly is the spaghetti.

Wow - two great wines. Wish I had been there. Those Terlano wines are exceptional. Maybe the best value in great white wines anywhere.

Why divina, that's not true. Sometimes they eat risotto. DeCecco is our workhorse brand around the house and is used about as often as divina suggests. I do find a difference between the Barilla made in the USA and that made in Italy with the American version seeming more gummy in texture. I am well satisfied with De Cecco. I would have to say getting an Italian to spend more than a Euro on half-kilo of dried pasta would be unusual. Most of our friends here use Barilla or whatever is on sale and I have had many fantastic dishes in their homes. There does not seem to be much use in comparing fresh vs. dry pasta as they are different things for different sauces. It is also regional, for example, all the main pasta dishes in Piemonte are fresh pasta (tajarin and plin) while the opposite is true further south. Pasta in Italy is not one thing, but many.

This is a fabulous place. What an exciting experience this has been, but time moves on as they say. My current commitments with my own website and publications demand far more time than I have and that leaves precious little time for eGullet. In the face of those realities I have decided to step down as not only Wine and Italy Forum Host, but as a Site Manager. I wish to thank Jason and Steven for the privilege of serving here and everyone at eGullet for an irreplaceable experience. While I leave behind my official roles you will be sure to find me here often.