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wanderingtaoist

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Posts posted by wanderingtaoist

  1. I would vote for Michael Ruhlman's on The Making, The Soul and The Reach of a Chef. Tremendous journalism on the craft, for me, that captivated me and taught me while I was beginning to learn to cook.

    Seconded. The first part of the Soul of the Chef, about Certified Chef Master Exam, has to be the tensest thing I ever read in books about cooking. You feel the pressure, the stress of the participants. I reread it every now and then for pure enjoyment.

    I really enjoyed Joe Bastianich's Restaurant Man recently (in audiobook form, read by the author). It is a nice look behind the scenes of restaurant life, written in pretty Bourdainesque style. Lots of expletives, so YMMV.

  2. This is what they call tarator in Bulgaria (tzatziki in Greece) and is absolutely wonderful and refreshing on a hot summer day:

    Shred a cucumber, salt it and cover with dill (the more the better for me), add crushed/minced garlic and olive oil. Add good Greek yoghurt, mix well and put in a fridge for a few hours. You can either drink it (in that case add some milk to achieve more fluid consistency), use as a dipping sauce with grilled meat or vegetables (typical tzatziki use) or eat on its own. Some Bulgarians also mix in crushed walnuts, which adds a nice slightly bitter aftertaste. The dill is extremely nice in this.

    Salmon (especially smoked) and dill are a natural fit.

    If you have new potatoes, just steam them and mix with dill and/or parsley with olive oil for a quick fragrant spring salad.

  3. The original version had weights and cups for all ingredients except liquids which were given as cups and made it very confusing for someone from the UK.

    I just downloaded a kindle version of the new edition and have only glanced through it. Weights and volume are used throughout.

    The sad thing is she gives a Biga & a Biga Naturale both of which are yeasted. She repeats the old story of how complicated and time consuming making and maintaining a starter is. If someone is serious enough to fork out the money for a bread book like this they must be a serious enough baker to use a starter. Pane Genzano is still given as a yeasted recipe.

    That said, I'm used to converting formulas to natural leaven and I'm sure I will get useful ideas from the book.

    Mick

    I am just substituting my normal sourdough starter instead of "biga". She uses 75-78 percent hydration in her biga, my starter is at 100 percent so I just mix up biga in necessary quantity and hydration a day beforehand. Takes some extra calculations, but nothing difficult.

    But yes, it makes me sad that "biga naturale" is yeasted in this book. Making a stable starter culture should have been included in a book that focuses on traditional bread recipes, especially given how conservative Italians are.

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