Went back on Friday. Not the first time. Canapés were variations of broccoli: puree with marinated tuna, mousse with monterey and parmesan grissini, and shaved romanesco with mussel and purple shiso. I've always been so impressed by these small bites on past visits--here was no exception. The puree and mousse were both pure broccoli in flavor, seasoned precisely, with a really pleasant bitter aftertaste. I've really come to appreciate bitterness, and I think this was a great example of how it works to compliment other flavors; the sharpness of the monterey, for instance, as well as the fattiness of the tuna. The mussel was a perfect bite. In addition to the broccoli: geoduck with green apple and celery. The brunoise of apple and celery was crunchy and refreshing; a touch of piment d'espelette for spice. Finally, an oyster with kaffir lime and lemongrass, dots of chive and pepper oil, and a garnish of sea cress. Good. "Mosaic of Poularde and Daikon Radish". Here were cubes of poularde, radish, foie gras, and consommé, wrapped in a thin shaving of baby zucchini. To the left a "young vegetable salad", which included a carrot, turnip and snap pea, prepared simply and honestly. This was served with two thin slices of crusty sourdough bread, which, with foie gras, I think makes more sense than brioche. The foie gras, as well as the rest of the mosaic, was seasoned just right (perhaps not with Jurassic salt, but with salt, nonetheless). Next, Scottish langoustine en gelée. A tall bowl filled with sea urchin custard, avocado mousse, caviar, and a bread tuile sprinkled with fennel pollen. The custard brought a great richness to the tender langoustine, while the tuile added some nice crunch to contrast the otherwise smoothness of textures here. A good dish, though not as memorable as what would follow. Jade Tiger Abalone with Cinco Jotas. The abalone was poached (presumably in butter), sliced thinly, and placed back in it's shell, atop diced avocado. Spread over the abalone was a zucchini marmalade, which was a fine brunoise seasoned with a noticeably fruity olive oil. To the side of the dish was a shaving of Cinco Jotas, along with wood sorrel, a tempura battered zucchini flower and a fried ball of oregano gremolata. Wow. This is one of the best things I've eaten all year. The abalone was tender, yet meaty, the marmalade atop added zest and acidity, and the avocado beneath gave just the right amount of creaminess . The garnish to the side, the ham and fried gremolata, in particular, tied everything together in terms of flavor and texture. I really liked the idea of serving this separately. The abalone could certainly have stood on its own, these additional elements brought the dish to a different level. Cedar wrapped kampachi was unwrapped tableside. The fish had been cooked in cedar wood, which, unlike the salmon I had prepared the same way a few months earlier, actually added a nice degree of smokiness to the kampachi. First of all, this is a great fish; a relative of hamachi, though smaller in size, with a dense, white flesh and mild flavor. After being placed alongside a variation of eggplant, a rich and spicy chicken jus was poured over the fillet. Dividing the plate was an intensely smoky eggplant puree. The garnish was very good. An additional puree made from grilled and baked eggplant, an eggplant chip, glazed baby eggplant, and a few Romano beans that brought a (necessary) refreshing element. My only criticism of this dish was the sauce. It was spiced nicely, and the flavor worked well, however, it was quite reduced, and I felt this coated, rather than complimented, the flavor and taste of the kampachi. Otherwise, everything here was quite good. Four Story Hill Farm's Squab. The breast had been roasted, and cooked to literal perfection. I mean, really, just absolutely perfect. Just where you want squab to be. The breast was placed atop an eggplant caponata, which, while flavorful, was a bit flat, and in need of a boost of acidity through the aid of either vinegar or citrus. A shaving of hearts of palm, which was folded over some of the same grilled eggplant puree I had in the previous dish (I've made this particular recipe a few times at home, and it is really good, so I didn't mind the repetition). The vadouvan jus was really excellent; spice works so well with pigeon. There was also a piece of plum, I think, which was nice to cut some of the richness in this dish. The final course, I was told, was no longer available for the night. So, it was a pleasant surprise to see it placed in front of me at the end of my meal. Vermont baby lamb with (more!) zucchini, fried zucchini flowers, and kamut berries. A chop of the rack leaning on a slice of the loin, with a barbajuan of braised shoulder meat in front. The lamb was tender as could be; the chop a wonderfully rosy pink, with such intense flavor. There was a thin slice of parmesan placed on the chop that I thought worked really well, but, unfortunately, I can't seem to explain why. The loin was noticeably gamier in taste, and the texture was a bit more substantial than the chop. The barbajuan was a nice touch: crunchy and rich. The jus, much like the previous two, had a piquant taste, but I can't recall which spices were used in this particular one. The berries were cooked to a pleasant middle-ground between tender and firm. Overall, an excellent dish, and an excellent end to another great meal at Daniel.
