VerbenaNYC

Congratulations to awbrig, jaymes and wingding, the winners of the book. It is very difficult to select for this sort of thing since we enjoyed hearing from everyone. We hope you enjoy cooking from Anatomy of a Dish. From Two chefs to another. Happy dining! Diane and Michael

Thank you for a great week and a warm welcome to eGullet. We enjoyed your questions and hearing your candid feedback. We hope it was as informative to you as it was to us. We look forward to seeing you at Verbena or Bar Demi, in disguise or out. If you would like to receive our monthly newsletter email us at verbenanyc@mindspring.com. Happy Holidays. Diane and Michael

Cabrales (what a great cheese) We endeavor to train our staff to be sensitive to our guests communications. If a particular table is expressing interest in either food, wine or even the state of restuarants in the city it is common for the staff member to alert the chef and manager to make sure to pay a little extra attention to the table. We know that those of you who frequent restaurants are a big part of our bread and butter. It only serves us to try our best to make sure that the memories you leave Verbena or Bar Demi with are only ones that will translate into positive ones when you are out at the competion talking about your experience chez nous!

Dear Jordyn, It is not that the phenomenon of no change has been affected by the factors or variables you stated. Quite the contrary, when a restaurant develops dishes by which it can be identified it can be very dissappointing for a customer who relies on signature items to be unavailable upon repeat visits. This is the case in the vegetable strudle. We try to encourage our staff to make our repeat customers aware that we will create new dishes on a spur of the moment in order to please their desire for variety and our desire for creative outlet. In fact we offer an eight course "fete du Marche" menu for our customers that want to really try what we believe best shows the seasons bounty and our creativity. These menus of the moment are not just meant for animal consumers. And yes our sommelier is happy to pair the dishes each with a 2 or 4 ounce pour of a wine or beverage that will help to increase the enjoyment of the meal. You must forgive us though with turnover comes the constant challenge of training and retraining the staff to know these special nuances of what we like to offer. We appreciate that you have brought this to our attention and look forward to your next visit when we hope that you will be pleasantly surprised! Further, to ensure that you get some new stuff, let the reservationist know that you are requesting the vegetarian options upon your visit. Thanks for the great feedback. Michael and Diane

It all depends on the kind of restaurant you'd like to have. Ultimately we believe that service comes first. Being welcoming at the front door is a skill that you bring with you and not necessarily learned. Creating food is important and a chef-driven restaurant is a certain style of restaurant. People have been successful at building restaurant operations with a variety of experience. I do recommend working in a restaurant before opening one to make sure this is the sort of lifestyle that suits you. There are a lot of behind the scenes information that would be useful to have before investing in a restaurant. A course can be helpful but I believe the on the job training to be more practical. Good luck!

Cheese for us is a very important and integral part of the dining experience. Not only do we employ it in several of our dishes served on the menu but we offer an eclectic variety of cheeses on our cheese board. We make it available to guest in both Bar Demi and Verbena. Cheese in NY and the US in general has always played a prominant roll. Wheather it was the Velveta that formed so well around the hooks that we would use to catch fish on Sunday afternoons in MacArthur Park in LA or the Kraft singles we (most of us had in our lunch boxes as kids. You could say that we have come a very long way baby. I can remember when getting a taste of Brie was an exotic occasion and that Jarlsburg Swiss was so special. Now that our palates have fast forwarded in this country at an alarming rate and thankfully so, we find that several of the few family farmers (that have mostly gone by the wayside - we are greatful to those holdouts and people who support them) are using artisinal, centuries old techniques to forge a great tradition of American farmstead cheese production. Due to our countries relative youth we are learning at an excelerated pace and this lack of experience gives us the courage to try many nontraditional methods that old world cheese makes would not (due mainly to a steadfast belief in tradition) What occurs can sometimes be dissapointing but is often exquisite. We encourage all cheese lovers to support our countries cheese makers by purchasing their products wheather on a cheese board at a Greenmarket or even from the farm direct. The quality can only continue to grow if we support the product. I do not mean to sound so patriotic but this is obviously an issue that I strongly believe in. At the restaurant and Bar you can enjoy a selection of up to 18 cheeses at a given time. We shop at the best retailers in taown and several of the whosalers for the goey stuff. We also buy from the Greenmarket. A normal cheese plate is accompanied by a nine-grain bread which we bake in house and two fruit pates. One is prune and date and the other is golden raising and dried apricot. They are an interesting counterpoint to help accentuate the cheeses charachter. Bar Demi has hosted several wonderful cheese and beverage events that focus on anywhere from 6 to 14 varieties. We have had groups of friends book the bar for entire evening to enjoy a guilded tasting of great cheese, wine, ales and cidars. We find that it is an original and fun way to spend time with small groups of food focused people. Our next cheese event that is open to the public is going to feature Steven Jenkins from Fairway. We are very syked to have wrangled his involvement. He will choose nine cheeses to bring with him and discuss and of course taste. We pair the cheese with small tastes from the kitchen and Vanessa and Aaron our Sommeliers do the beverage pairings and generate informative tasting notes. Any interest - it will be on Sunday, February 9 at 6pm. Reservations are very limited. After all is said and done though we do not spurn the great European cheeses. In fact at any given time at least half if not more than half of our selection is from all over.

Thanks for your inquiry about the cookbook. Beginning the process can be quite daunting. Publishing a book is a whole other world. The whole process took about four years. One year to develop the idea into an outline and table of contents. One year to refine it, find an agent and sell it to a publisher, one year to write it and test the recipes and one year for editing. It's hard to imagine that it as been this long but it has been enjoyable. Having a good agent is key. My agent helped me refine the idea so it would be clear. Although this was by far the most difficult part of the journey Iwas greatful to have worked out the outline in order to actually write the book. I always wanted to write a cookbook but wanted to be able to include a topic that could teach something along with including a collection of my recipes. When I came across the idea to explore the botanical roots of the foods we eat, I knew this was a great idea. I learned a lot in the process, too. Having a good publisher was important, especially one that can share the vision of the book. I am very pleased with the results.

The whole clock thing started at Pinot Bistro in Studio City, CA. They installed one in the Private dining room and it became a sort of theme for the Pinot chain. I do not believe that the clock obsesion continued in the Nick and Steph Ventures or the Zucca place.

I am truly surprised at the number of responses to this simple question! I asked this very question to about 1200 people in our first Verbena e-letter and recieved 0 response. I guess our e-mail base thought it was rhetorical. I know that the average eGullet participant is not the average diner. If this were the case than many below average places would have bit the dust long ago and quite a few now shuttered ventures would still be plugging along. But if you have ever been involved with the biz than you know that it is quite a bit more even than fine food, service, ambiance and beverage that gives a house longevity. Diane and I would like to thank you all for a great week of interesting chat. If you do get the chance to stop in make sure you say hello. You do not have to reveal your eGullet pen name. We will take care of you just the same! Cheers

As restaurant owners and chefs we are always curious about what makes a guest become a regular. Everyone has an opinion. We want to know what makes people think "I have got to come back here- and soon" As a chef I would love to think that it is the food first but I believe that this is an illusion. When you are treated as a special person in a professional and comfortable environment - no matter how much $ you are spending, I believe that mistakes with food, drink and service can be overlooked. I think that this brings people back more than great food. We always think of dinner hours as a performance in which most people are not very forgiving of errors. However, it depends on a restaurants commitment to service and how well one can turn around a negative occurence and surprise and exceed a guests expectation. This does not always involve buying the world for a table if there is a mistake. Sometimes it can be as simple as letting a table know that the manager is involved with making things right. What are your thoughts? Michael and Diane

Living in a city has its limitations in being able to see a whole plant grow. Usually we only see the part that is brought to market and considered edible. I now realize that sometimes a plant's flavor permeates into its other parts, (although sometimes poisonous too, )it is a place to experiment with caution. When I noticed a salsify root sprouting like an endive or a ginger plant and its fragrant leaves that perhaps can be used like an herb, it made me wonder about other possibilities we never get to see.

Seasonal availability plays a big roll in how we cook on either coast. In Los Angeles I often found it frustrating to see people go out to diner to to be where they can see and be seen. Appetites can be very difficult to satisfy when the clientele has to fit into all those fancy clothes. In San Francisco and New York there is more of an appreciation for a chefs personal style of cooking than a worry about being noticed by a casting director. That is not to say that some of the country's top cooking talent is in Los Angeles. For the most part I find that cooking styles are starting to really meld due to the information age. We can access so much stimulis from where ever we want it. What people eat or like to order in our restaurant drives the program. No longer can chefs dictate the eating habits of our guests. We try to strike a happy balence of complex dishes, simple comfort foods and personal favorites on the menu. It's interesting to note that for the most part diners want accessable, straight forward foods that do not need too much interpretation. Although the average diner is a bit wiser these days and knows what endive is or caper berries or even foie gras. We enjoy feeding people what they want and sharing things with them that they might not always try in a different circumstance. It is a fine line to walk but that's the biz. I hope that's an okay response for you.

Since we adapted a "turkey steak" recipe at the restaurant we have not had a chicken dish. However when we do have chicken we like to experiment in several cooking mediums based on what we are into at the moment.

We both have favorite ethnic dishes that find there way onto the menu. Some of them are evident in the techniques we employ, others in the ingredients and still other in the reworking of an old family favorite. Cooking for us is largly the introduction of flavors that we connect with in personal ways through memory in dishes that we develop for our clientele. I would say that about half of the flavors come from that past memory and the rest from our current repetoire of learned food skills. Sometimes a dish does not fit into the context of what we do here but a flavor, sauce or technique can be incorporated in a way that works. This is one of the most satisfying aspects of what we do.

I had the opportunity to work with Joachim Splichal for a period of about 8 years over the course of 13. I worked with him in 5 of his restaurants and was greatly influenced by his sense of business and focus on flavor and presentation. He is a stellar chef in our craft and exemplifies an extreme success story to be admired. In the case of Wolf, I worked with him for a very brief period at Spago West Hollywood prior to the Beverly Hills opening. I found it a bit disorrienting to work in his medium due to the vast differences that the two schools followed. It was however a wonderful chance to see how he operates and experience first hand the controlled chaos of the empire he stands atop. It is quite curious that both Joachim and Wolf made it in this country cooking French stylized food.

I like the variety of flavors that side dishes offer to the 'main', usually protein part of the dish. Now, it is becoming desirable to eat small plates, perhaps balancing out the quantity of food assigned to the different parts of the plate. I think it is less about the protein and more about quantity of food on a plate when discussing food preferences between men and women; most women tend to eat less than men (but not always). In my book, Anatomy of a Dish, I start with vegetables and fruits as a flavor base to build my dishes. But, I often am inspired by a market available fish or meat that steer me in the other direction.

As I worked my way 'up the line' I was always motivated to move to the next level. I knew if I focused and followed instructions I would eventually get there. There was a certain amount of testing in a new kitchen but once I achieved my position that subsided. I knew that when I would have my own kitchen I could establish my own rules. I have been lucky to open my restaurant and run my kitchen. I have also enjoyed mentoring many women that have passed through Verbena. I now collaborate with Michael and we share the responsibilities of running a restaurant together. We are able to actually do more together. Four eyes are better than two. I have not been able to visit the french women chefs respective restaurants - I look forward to it , however. I have eaten in Darroze, her father's location and enjoyed it very much. It's great that they are able to make new history in France and choose to continue as culinary professionals establishing their own styles.

There were lots of surprises once I started exploring botany and its relationship to foods we eat. I no longer consider grouping vegetables according to its parts, such as root vegetables orleafy greens. I like to view their relationships within their plant families. This is where the essence of their flavor patterns lie. As a chef, it is like learning a new culinary language. I don't cook like a botanist, but I enjoy understanding these new groupings in my kitchen.

The perfect chicken starts with a great bird. If I had my druthers, I would sneak in a Poulet De Bresse from France. I believe it is the only A.O.C. given to a feathered comestible. Here in NYC though we have the local purveyors at the green market who sell great 3.5 to 4 pound chickens that are organically raised and have a great pedigree. A brine is always a great place to start if you have the time. It ensures that you can just about abuse it and it will still have flavor and some juice left in it. Take 1/2 cup kosher salt and 3 tablespoons sugar and add it to 3/4 Gallons water with a few fresh bay leaves, 1/4 bunch of fresh thyme, 1/2 bunch parsley stems, 1 tablespoon black pepper, 1 teaspoon allspice berries, 4 whole cloves and 1 head garlic simply split in half horizontally. Simmer slowly for 10 minutes, allow to cool overnight then strain over your bird. Keep it 8 to 24 hours in the brine. My personal preference is to roast it in my weber barbeque at about 425F. for about 1 1/4 hours with mesquite and soaked apple wood chips for the last 25 minutes. In an oven I like to truss the bird so it keeps its pretty shape. Season lightly with salt adn pepper. In an large skillet I like to brown the bird on the both sides with a little olive oil. Then right into a 425 F oven on a few mirepoix veg that are prepped so they can be served with the bird. Breast side up for about one hour (basting every ten minutes with some great sweet butter. Then a minimum 15 minute resting period in a warm place before it's time to attack!

Being able to apprentice in France was a great experience, especially after having a few years experience cooking professionally in New York. It was particularly reassuring to see that American kitchens are great places to work as well. In France, they are further advanced on kitchen gadgets and equipment, especially in the pastry shops. I not only staged at Eugenie Les Bain and Arpege, but I took a great intensive class on breadbaking at Ecole Lenotre outside of Paris, Maison Blanche and worked for a pastry chef near Biarritz called Mandion. I started in Biarritz and I was able to arrange other stages with the other restaurants from this starting point. I wanted to see some of the more progressive kitchens and decided on these. Although I wasn't able to stay a long time in each place, I was able to get an overview of the different kitchens and see the behind the scenes activity - an exciting way to experience a restaurant aside from dining in one. The staff was always welcoming and I found they were very curious about New York. It was definitely a highlight in my cooking career.

We had a wonderful yet short visit to Chicago. We began our visit with a delicious breakfast at NoMI. The room is beautifully appointed and the menu tasty. We would like to return for dinner. We actually spent the rest of our morning at the Art Institute. Neither of us had been there. They have such an amazing collection of Modern Art. Then we went to the book signing at Charlie Trotter's to go where we were greeted by Charlie Trotter and his staff. They were extremely welcoming. Because we were unable to stay for dinner, they sent us off with treats from the store for our plane ride home. We were particularly flattered that they had prepared some dishes from the book to pass around the store for tastes. It was our first booksigning and a huge success. Not only was it a great experience and a beautiful store but we sold out to the last book!

In the garden season we do like to have several menu selections that lend themselves to outdoor dining. Chilled soups, oysters on the half shell, appetizer salads and grilled items are quite popular when it gets warmer out and people are dining in our garden. Unfortunately we tend to be viewed quite often as a spring through fall restaurant because our outdoor area is so appealing. The reality is that we do have a charming dining room that was designed by Glenn Forley, Diane's brother. He created the wonderful cork table tops that create a warm, casual elegance to the room. Also, we just added linen runners to the tables to add a delicate touch.

Cooking at home we tend to share the duties. Since Olivia our daughter was born Diane has spent more time at home with her and our dogs. I have had more hands on cooking time at work and Diane has had in turn more time at home. It's wonderful to have a great meal to come home to! When we entertain at home we share most of the duties and it makes things stimulating for both of us.

Dear Irish Cream, Greens are one of my favorite vegetables. If you have a surplus you can make different flavored 'pestos'. For example, one of my favorites is sauteeing kale and collard greens in a fruity olive oil. Place in a blender with toasted pine nuts and cheese and process until smooth. You can use this as a base for a soup - just add vegetable or chicken stock for a quick stracciatella soup. Arugula works well this way as well but instead of sauteeing it you can lightly blanche the leaves in water and then process it. You can also make a sauce for pasta, chicken or meats by finishing the pesto with a little olive oil. If you have larger overgrown leaves, swiss chard and cabbage make great wrappings. Just stuff leaves with interesting grains - such as barley, wheatberries, millet or rice. Good luck. Diane

It is amazing that you read that article. It feels like that was a world away. Cooking on both coasts has been eye opening since people tend to cook and eat somewhat differently. My approach to cooking has evolved quite a bit as a result of both my geographic and professional status. It is much different being inspired to cook based on drastic weather changes in the seasons. Los Angeles and San Francisco are pretty constant in temperature so you cannot appreciate the fluctuations in appetite that accompany these changes. The real need to cook based on what will nourish and comfort in response to the climate variations. Hopefully I have adapted to this. On a professional level sharing the duties of Chef with Diane has been a growing experience. We bring different experiences to the table that enhance our collective approach to the dining experience. On a product note, I still enjoy making contact with people who produce and create many of the raw products that we work with. Living just a few doors away from the Union Square Greenmarket has provided me the medium to meet farmers, lamb, pork and bison growers and local fisherman that bring amazing items to the city. I do however miss the Santa Monica Farmers Market and the Marin Farmers Market. The pickens are a bit slim around here from mid December until mid March. If you would like to see our food thoughts and monthly events you can email the restaurant to be placed on our e-letter mail list at verbenanyc@mindspring.com. Thank You for the question, Michael